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shino/hank is correct

updated thu 9 jun 05

 

mel jacobson on wed 8 jun 05


i do believe.
i have never gotten a decent shino without early reduction.
cone 011.
it does not have to be severe...just reduction in the entire
kiln.
i often used scrap wood during this step as there is not much
energy in the kiln at cone 011 and wood gives it a nice reduction boost.
black shino must have rather strong early reduction.
then back off to light to medium for the entire firing.
clear at the end.
fast cool.
re/lite. let the crystals grow.

my comments on oxy iron/temmoku is very different
from shino.

same for celedon. you may not want any fire down.
crash cool. button up.
same for jet black temmoku. after reduction.. you can
muddy the temmoku badly with too much reduction and a long
fire down.

so, every glaze type has a firing system.
try and make them all the same and you are leading
to trouble.

if david hendley would just stick with `mother in law blue`...he
would never have to re/fire. and, he would be rich and a man
of all day bed thinking and reading.
from mel/minnetonka.mn.usa
website: http://www.pclink.com/melpots