lyla kaplan on fri 24 jun 05
i have two eclipse tr-80 venturi compound injector burners and i need to
enlarge the orifice from 1/8 in to 11/64, running on lpg at 2psi. However,
because of the design of the burner, the orifice is 6 in deep and i can't
use a regular bit (even when taking it apart). the only way i can reach it
is to use a 12 in bit, but these only come in 1/8 in and 3/16in. because
this burner has an orifice adjusting pin, would it be problematic to use the
3/16 in drill bit and then adjust it back down with the pin? or does
someone know of a drill bit source that would stock 11/64 at least 6 in
long? (we were unable to locate one via the web).
matt and lyla
Fredrick Paget on sat 25 jun 05
> does
>someone know of a drill bit source that would stock 11/64 at least 6 in
>long? (we were unable to locate one via the web).
>
>matt and lyla
Look for a drill extension that is used to drill in this sort of
place. Ihey have a long shaft with a hole in the end that holds the
drill bit via a set screw.
Failing this, a drill can be butt welded to a piece of drill rod to
extend it. This is best done in a lathe or a jig, that you can rig up.
You might find a long shaft drill at McMaster Supply, we used to call
them aviation drills.
--
From Fred Paget,
Marin County, CA, USA
fredrick@well.com
Charter Member Potters Council
Hank Murrow on sat 25 jun 05
On Jun 24, 2005, at 4:45 PM, lyla kaplan wrote:
> i have two eclipse tr-80 venturi compound injector burners and i need
> to
> enlarge the orifice from 1/8 in to 11/64, running on lpg at 2psi.
> However,
> because of the design of the burner, the orifice is 6 in deep and i
> can't
> use a regular bit (even when taking it apart). the only way i can
> reach it
> is to use a 12 in bit, but these only come in 1/8 in and 3/16in.
> because
> this burner has an orifice adjusting pin, would it be problematic to
> use the
> 3/16 in drill bit and then adjust it back down with the pin? or does
> someone know of a drill bit source that would stock 11/64 at least 6 in
> long? (we were unable to locate one via the web).
Dear Matt & Lyla;
I use eclipse mixers on my Doorless Fiberkiln (
www.ceramicsmonthly.org/mustreads/shinofire.asp scroll down to the
kiln article) .
I recommend that you take apart the mixer between the venturi and the
mixer head. You will find that the brass orifice spud is easy to remove
with a socket wrench. Hold this tightly in a heavy support on your
drill press and enlarge the hole using a thread cutting lubricant. You
will get a nice round and clean hole this way, which will contribute to
the efficiency of your burner system. Also, fold over some denin about
four times and drill right through this using the lube.
I would not try to use the adjusting pin to downsize the orifice, as
this will cause the mixture to become turbulent, reducing efficiency.
Good Luck,
Hank in Eugene
www.murrow.biz/hank
pdp1@EARTHLINK.NET on sun 26 jun 05
Hi Matt,
I missed the initial question, but caught Fred's mention so am joining the
fun on it...
One may also use that Drill bit you have, to drill a hole maybe 3/8ths of an
inch into say, a several inch long common 14/20 Screw's end, or similar...
Cut off the screw's head...grind a little flat area onto both sides of the
Drill bit's end for say about 3/8ths of an inch...
Press the drill bit into the hole it had drilled...in the common several
inch long machine Screw...
Take a Hammer and something solid for an Anvil, and tap the end of the Screw
snugly down onto the flats you have ground onto the Drill bit's shank
end...or solder it even...as well...
And you have a decent extempore extention suitable for getting the
thing-at-hand drilled and done. That is, if the diameter of say a 1/4 - 20
Machine Screw will fit into where you need the extra length to happen.
If you do not stress it too bad, it will hold.
Comercial drill Bit enxtentions tend to presume a 1/4 inch shank going into
them, which your
11/16ths drill bit is not likely to have...and they would be larger in their
socket anyway, than making one one's self for this particular job, if
clearance is of concern.
Too, if I were to be about enlarging the diameter of an Oriface, I would
rather use a reamer, and, lacking one, I would take the Drill Bit and
carefully grind a taper to it's terminal diameter, say, for 1/2 of an inch
or so, which would allow it to act in effect a lot more like a reamer, and
it will not catch or dig in that way or make a accidentally larger hole for
catching.
That, and run it at a pretty slow RPM...
Or, here is a link, arbitrarily elected, showing available drill Bits for
use in Aircraft manufacturing, where longer than usual lengths are often
resorted to.
http://www.triumphtwistdrill.com/products/extralength.asp
I'd still taper the end...if drilling to enlarge Orifaces...
Phil
el ve
----- Original Message -----
From: "Fredrick Paget"
> > does
> >someone know of a drill bit source that would stock 11/64 at least 6 in
> >long? (we were unable to locate one via the web).
> >
> >matt and lyla
>
>
> Look for a drill extension that is used to drill in this sort of
> place. Ihey have a long shaft with a hole in the end that holds the
> drill bit via a set screw.
> Failing this, a drill can be butt welded to a piece of drill rod to
> extend it. This is best done in a lathe or a jig, that you can rig up.
> You might find a long shaft drill at McMaster Supply, we used to call
> them aviation drills.
> --
> From Fred Paget,
Logan Oplinger on wed 29 jun 05
On Fri, 24 Jun 2005 19:45:24 -0400, lyla kaplan
wrote:
>i have two eclipse tr-80 venturi compound injector burners and i need to
>enlarge the orifice from 1/8 in to 11/64, running on lpg at 2psi. However,
>because of the design of the burner, the orifice is 6 in deep and i can't
>use a regular bit (even when taking it apart). the only way i can reach it
>is to use a 12 in bit, but these only come in 1/8 in and 3/16in. because
>this burner has an orifice adjusting pin, would it be problematic to use
the
>3/16 in drill bit and then adjust it back down with the pin? or does
>someone know of a drill bit source that would stock 11/64 at least 6 in
>long? (we were unable to locate one via the web).
>
>matt and lyla
>
Dear Matt & Lyla,
I like what Phil suggests about making the drill bit tapered. To make a
longer bit, you may also be able to acquire a double ended pin vise to hold
the bit, and a 1/8" diam. steel extension rod made from ordinary welding
rod. Since the shank of the 11/64" bit is larger than what normal pin
vises will accept (1/8"), you may have to grind down the shank end of the
drill bit to 1/8" to fit a pin vise. This can be done with the use of a
bench grinder and an electric hand drill. The electric hand drill
functions as a lathe. Mount the 11/64" drill in reverse in the hand drill,
and, running at the drill at low speed, hold the the shank end of the drill
bit at a 90 deg. angle against the fine grinding wheel of the bench
grinder. For stability, make sure to also hold the the drill bit against
the tool rest of the bench grinder.
Another way is similar to what Phil has suggested, by drilling out the
center of a 5/16" x 1-1/2" brass machine screw, using a drill press and
holding the screw vertical. To make a jig to hold the screw, drill a 5/16"
hole through a small scrap piece of wood which is about 1" thick, and then
anchor the screw into the wood with a 5/16" nut and two 5/16" washers.
With a 1/8" bit, drill out the center of the brass screw. Then with the
11/64" bit, drill out only half of the screw (3/4"). Next cut off the head
of the screw. You will now have a threaded brass tube, one end which is
1/8" inside diam., and the other end 11/64" inside diam. This tube can be
used to solder the 11/64" drill bit to a 1/8" steel extension rod. Be sure
to clean off any of the black or blue coating on shank of the drill bit,
and one end of the 1/8" extension rod before attempting to solder them to
your brass tube.
You may also be able to find a single ended pin vise that will hold a drill
bit larger than 1/8", such as the ones I found with Google at
http://www.crloo.com/Products/Hand_Tools___Supplies/Hand_Tools_4/hand_tools_
4.html
(Scroll down to item code "P-VISEM AN".)
or
http://www.micromark.com/
(Do a KEY WORD SEARCH using "pin vise).
Another possibility is to obtain a length of tool steel rod, 11/64"
diameter and grind one end to a square taper about 1-1/2" long, which can
be used to ream out the orifice.
http://www.fastenal.com/web/products/detail.ex?sku=0987903
I hope this is of some help.
Logan Oplinger
Another Tropical Island
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