Paul Lewing on fri 15 jul 05
on 7/15/05 8:53 AM, Jonathan Kirkendall at jon@KIRKENDALLPOTTERY.COM wrote:
> I was thinking of
> trying either Hansen's 20 X 5 clear or one of John and Ron's clears and
> incrementally adding 5% more melter.
That would probably work, Jonathon.
>
> I have test tiles all ready to test. I've searched archives and the
> web, and haven't found anything. I would appreciate any suggestions
> along creating a stable, cone 2 glaze.
Something else you might try is line-blending cone 6 and cone 04 glazes.
Good luck, Paul Lewing
Jonathan Kirkendall on fri 15 jul 05
Hi all,
In my recent foray into earthenware, I discovered that the body I use
(Virginia Red) can be fired up to cone 2. Interesting - at that
temperature it still retains the soft red of earthenware, but is almost
vitrified and my guess would be more durable.
The problem I'm having is finding a cone 2 clear. My first experiment
involved opening up James Chappell's Potter's Complete Book of Clay and
Glazes, and chose five clear cone 2 glazes (SSG 93, SSG 90, FG 40, FG
35, and FG 31). Not one of them turned out to be a stable clear. The
two that came out clear ran like crazy, pulling off the underglaze with
them. The other three ranged from a cloudy white to a hard blistered white.
Since cone 2 is around 2088 F (with a heat rise of 108/hr), and since
that's about just 100 degrees below my cone 6 firings, I was thinking of
trying either Hansen's 20 X 5 clear or one of John and Ron's clears and
incrementally adding 5% more melter.
I have test tiles all ready to test. I've searched archives and the
web, and haven't found anything. I would appreciate any suggestions
along creating a stable, cone 2 glaze.
Thanks!
Jonathan in DC
Edouard Bastarache Inc. on sat 16 jul 05
Hello John,
on a theoritical basis, this could be a C/3 clear glaze.
C/3 Bass #36 Transparent
Dolomite 2.97
Quartz 21.76
Frir 3110 36.6
Frit 3134 10.48
EPK 19.78
Whiting 8.41
Total 100
I have not tested it yet, if you
do, keep me posted.
Later,
"Ils sont fous ces quebecois"
"They are insane these quebekers"
"Están locos estos quebequeses"
Edouard Bastarache
Irreductible Quebecois
Indomitable Quebeker
Sorel-Tracy
Quebec
edouardb@sorel-tracy.qc.ca
www.sorel-tracy.qc.ca/~edouardb/Welcome.html
http://www.ceramique.blogspot.com/
http://www.flickr.com/photos/30058682@N00/
http://perso.wanadoo.fr/smart2000/index.htm
http://www.digitalfire.com/education/toxicity/
Ron Roy on sat 16 jul 05
HI Jonathan,
The main problem at cone 2 is the alkaline earths (CaO, MgO, BaO and SrO)
are not good fluxes at all so you need to rely mostly on frits.
I have no experience at that temperature but - if you don't get any help I
can try to help - let me know.
RR
>In my recent foray into earthenware, I discovered that the body I use
>(Virginia Red) can be fired up to cone 2. Interesting - at that
>temperature it still retains the soft red of earthenware, but is almost
>vitrified and my guess would be more durable.
>
>The problem I'm having is finding a cone 2 clear. My first experiment
>involved opening up James Chappell's Potter's Complete Book of Clay and
>Glazes, and chose five clear cone 2 glazes (SSG 93, SSG 90, FG 40, FG
>35, and FG 31). Not one of them turned out to be a stable clear. The
>two that came out clear ran like crazy, pulling off the underglaze with
>them. The other three ranged from a cloudy white to a hard blistered white.
>
>Since cone 2 is around 2088 F (with a heat rise of 108/hr), and since
>that's about just 100 degrees below my cone 6 firings, I was thinking of
>trying either Hansen's 20 X 5 clear or one of John and Ron's clears and
>incrementally adding 5% more melter.
>
>I have test tiles all ready to test. I've searched archives and the
>web, and haven't found anything. I would appreciate any suggestions
>along creating a stable, cone 2 glaze.
>
>Thanks!
>Jonathan in DC
Ron Roy
RR#4
15084 Little Lake Road
Brighton, Ontario
Canada
K0K 1H0
Phone: 613-475-9544
Fax: 613-475-3513
Ron Roy on tue 19 jul 05
Hello again Jonathan,
The two Post glazes have the same expansion rate by the way - the two
posted by Lili have a slightly higher calculated expansion rate.
The problem you will most likely run into is crazing - keep in mind - low
fire bodies with talc in them usually have a higher expansion/contraction
rate which helps with the crazing problem at lower temperatures.
Anyway - let me know how those glazes work and I may be able to work up a
set of glazes to find the right expansion rate for that clay. If they don't
craze you may want to know if there is a potential dunting problem.
RR
RR
>In my recent foray into earthenware, I discovered that the body I use
>(Virginia Red) can be fired up to cone 2. Interesting - at that
>temperature it still retains the soft red of earthenware, but is almost
>vitrified and my guess would be more durable.
>
>The problem I'm having is finding a cone 2 clear. My first experiment
>involved opening up James Chappell's Potter's Complete Book of Clay and
>Glazes, and chose five clear cone 2 glazes (SSG 93, SSG 90, FG 40, FG
>35, and FG 31). Not one of them turned out to be a stable clear. The
>two that came out clear ran like crazy, pulling off the underglaze with
>them. The other three ranged from a cloudy white to a hard blistered white.
>
>Since cone 2 is around 2088 F (with a heat rise of 108/hr), and since
>that's about just 100 degrees below my cone 6 firings, I was thinking of
>trying either Hansen's 20 X 5 clear or one of John and Ron's clears and
>incrementally adding 5% more melter.
>
>I have test tiles all ready to test. I've searched archives and the
>web, and haven't found anything. I would appreciate any suggestions
>along creating a stable, cone 2 glaze.
>
>Thanks!
>Jonathan in DC
Ron Roy
RR#4
15084 Little Lake Road
Brighton, Ontario
Canada
K0K 1H0
Phone: 613-475-9544
Fax: 613-475-3513
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