Ann Brink on sat 30 jul 05
Hi Kim
Yes, the technique you describe is often used for decorative surfaces, or
outsides of functional pots. Usually you would want a smoother surface on
the interiors.
When I want that effect, I have a bucket of what I call "Stain Dip", which
is a mixture of several high iron (red-brown) glazes and more water than
usual. I give the item a fast dunk and when the excess runs off, all
impressions retain more of the color. If the pot has a liner glaze, I do
that first, clean up the edges, invert the item and pour the stain-dip with
a cup. If it's a mug, for instance, I will re-dip the rim in the first glaze
to make a nice rim.
This method is not quite as controlled as what you do, but it's fast, and I
thought you might like to try it. I have tried it with other colors as
well- by not stirring the bucket completely, then using the thinner mixture
at the top.
Ann Brink in Lompoc CA.
----- Original Message -----
From: "kim b."
> Hi all; I have been experimenting with what I call a Glaze Wash. Someone
else probably already has a name for it!??! I make things with leaf
impressions on them and wanted the leaf veins to show up better. I took a
few of my regular cone 6 glazes and sponge wiped them on, let sit for a few
minutes then took a slightly damp sponge and wiped most of it off, except
for the deeper leaf lines. I have a turquoise glaze that came out light blue
with tinges of golden tan which I love. Also have a blue that turns black
when wiped down. Anyway, has anyone else experimented with this? The other
question is.........if it's cone 6 clay and cone 6 glaze it IS still
vitrified (correct word?) enough to be food safe right?? I am mostly
self-taught, so I am on my own out here! thanks for any input, Kim B.
>
>
> Kim Bowdish, KGB POTTERY, Severance, Colorado 970-686-6706
>
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Kate Johnson on sat 30 jul 05
--- In clayart@yahoogroups.com, "kim b." wrote:
> Hi all; I have been experimenting with what I call a Glaze Wash.
Someone else probably already has a name for it!??!
Hi Kim--that's as good a name as any, I expect! It describes the
process well.
> I make things with leaf impressions on them and wanted the leaf
veins to show up better. I took a few of my regular cone 6 glazes
and sponge wiped them on, let sit for a few minutes then took a
slightly damp sponge and wiped most of it off, except for the deeper
leaf lines.
>Anyway, has anyone else experimented with this?
Yep, have indeed...my sign at the top on my Greenman Pottery album
used that technique, as do several others on that page.
http://pg.photos.yahoo.com/ph/graphicartepsi/album?.dir=/4870
Scroll down to Susan's Spiral Bowl for the most obvious, but I also
use it on some of my sculptures. I really like the effect, and it
emphasizes detail very well. Snail Scott offered some terrific
suggestions on this (as always!) but I don't remember if it was
on Clayart or privately, sorry.
My pottery buddy at school does it, too, using lowfire glazes, or
you can mix oxides with a bit of binder...whichever technique, it
brings out the detail. (I like leaves too.) It sounds like
you're doing pretty much what I do, though...and it works for me.
>The other question is.........if it's cone 6 clay and cone 6 glaze
it IS still vitrified (correct word?) enough to be food safe right??
I am mostly self-taught, so I am on my own out here! thanks for any
input, Kim B.
I don't think the problem would be with the vitrification but with
coverage and leaving bare clay when you wipe it off. You might
consider doing the glaze wash in the depressions, then a clear glaze
over to seal your work?
Best--
Kate Johnson
graphicart@epsi.net
http://www.cathyjohnson.info/
Art, History, Nature and More at Cathy Johnson's Cafepress--
http://www.cafepress.com/cathy_johnson/
Graphics/Fine Arts Press--
http://www.epsi.net/graphic/
Heather Pedersen on sun 31 jul 05
Hi Kim,
I have been experimenting with this type of glazing on my carvings the
past year or so. I've found that it is easier for me to rub it off with a
rib, or my hand, almost immediately then use a sponge later. It leaves
more glaze on in the deeper sections. Since I usually carve and glaze
wash the outside of a pot and then fully glaze the inside, I haven't had
to worry about the food safeness of it. Theoretically I think that is
correct?
-= Heather Pedersen
On Fri, 29 Jul 2005 20:32:42 -0700, kim b. wrote:
>Hi all; I have been experimenting with what I call a Glaze Wash. Someone
else probably already has a name for it!??! I make things with leaf
impressions on them and wanted the leaf veins to show up better. I took a
few of my regular cone 6 glazes and sponge wiped them on, let sit for a
few minutes then took a slightly damp sponge and wiped most of it off,
except for the deeper leaf lines. I have a turquoise glaze that came out
light blue with tinges of golden tan which I love. Also have a blue that
turns black when wiped down. Anyway, has anyone else experimented with
this? The other question is.........if it's cone 6 clay and cone 6 glaze
it IS still vitrified (correct word?) enough to be food safe right?? I am
mostly self-taught, so I am on my own out here! thanks for any input,
Kim B.
>
>
> Kim Bowdish, KGB POTTERY, Severance, Colorado 970-686-6706
Snail Scott on wed 3 aug 05
At 08:32 PM 7/29/2005 -0700, you wrote:
>Hi all; I have been experimenting with what I call a Glaze Wash...if it's
cone 6 clay and cone 6 glaze it IS still vitrified (correct word?) enough
to be food safe right??
The layer of glaze which is closest to the clay
can be strongly affected by the clay itself, and
the alumina, iron, and other minerals which are
present in the clay can be taken up into the glaze
melt. This usually affects only the part of the
glaze coatin gclosest to the clay, but it accounts
for why so many glazes are radically different in
thin layers compared with their 'normal' selves.
When glaze is used as a wash, it's actually a
chemically different glaze after firing - a blend of
the glaze and the clay.
If it was food-safe as a normal-thickness glaze,
it probably won't be toxic afterward,
since clays typically don't have many bad-news
ingredients. It may no longer be a 'stable' glaze,
though. Whether this matters will depend on the
glaze and the purpose to which it's put. If it's the
outside of a vessel, it'll be fine, since it won't be
interacting with acidic foods. If it's a food-contact
surface, it might be altered by acids like salsa or
vinegar, and it might be gradually altered by caustic
dishwasher detergents. If you aren't sure if it's
stable, leave a slice of lemon on it overnight and
check it in the morning. If you see no change, it's
probably stable enough. Even if it changes, it might
still be food-safe, but better to try a more stable
surface for food, just on general principles.
Basically, though, I wouldn't worry. I'm assuming
you're not making such a rough surface to eat off
of, anyway.
-Snail
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