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lid removal/stuck

updated sun 14 aug 05

 

mel jacobson on sun 7 aug 05


just a few more details.

this will work, i believe, on any kind of stuck cover.

i used a spray bottle..and spritzed a small stream of water
into the gallery/cover area.
it sort of works like sweating a pipe...just fills right up.
it is less than a teaspoonful.
then set it in the freezer.
let it stay for about an hour.
take it out.
let the water unfreeze.
tap it with a wooden block. /and this one was a tough one.
you can tell by the sound when you tap it with a wooden handle.
when they are ready to break loose the sound is a bit of a rattle.
this one was tight. and, off it came...without any real hard tap.

mel
from mel/minnetonka.mn.usa
website: http://www.pclink.com/melpots
http://home.comcast.net/~figglywig/clayart.htm
for gail's year book.

Kathy McDonald on sun 7 aug 05


I have an old wooden rolling pin that i use for this very purpose...
for a long time now I have put my casseroles in the freezer with a spritz of
water
as soon as i get them out of the kiln...I think this process has saved many
a casserole from
an overzealous tap that would often result in breakage.

It takes just a slight tap to make the lid release and I've learned the hard
way
don't ever tap right on the rim...move the wooden "tapper" to the place
where it can do the least harm
on the dome of the lid or nearest the handle where you have some extra clay
to
handle the stress.

-----Original Message-----
From: Clayart [mailto:CLAYART@LSV.CERAMICS.ORG]On Behalf Of mel jacobson
Sent: Sunday, August 07, 2005 6:47 AM
To: CLAYART@LSV.CERAMICS.ORG
Subject: lid removal/stuck


just a few more details.

this will work, i believe, on any kind of stuck cover.

i used a spray bottle..and spritzed a small stream of water
into the gallery/cover area.
it sort of works like sweating a pipe...just fills right up.
it is less than a teaspoonful.
then set it in the freezer.
let it stay for about an hour.
take it out.
let the water unfreeze.
tap it with a wooden block. /and this one was a tough one.
you can tell by the sound when you tap it with a wooden handle.
when they are ready to break loose the sound is a bit of a rattle.
this one was tight. and, off it came...without any real hard tap.

mel
from mel/minnetonka.mn.usa
website: http://www.pclink.com/melpots
http://home.comcast.net/~figglywig/clayart.htm
for gail's year book.

____________________________________________________________________________
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melpots@pclink.com.

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Victoria E. Hamilton on sun 7 aug 05


Mel,

Thank you so much for these details - it'll make for fewer pieces of "yard
art."

Vicki Hamilton
Millennia Antica Pottery
Seattle, WA

-----Original Message-----
From: Clayart [mailto:CLAYART@LSV.CERAMICS.ORG] On Behalf Of mel jacobson
Sent: Sunday, August 07, 2005 04:47
To: CLAYART@LSV.CERAMICS.ORG
Subject: lid removal/stuck

just a few more details.

this will work, i believe, on any kind of stuck cover.

i used a spray bottle..and spritzed a small stream of water
into the gallery/cover area.
it sort of works like sweating a pipe...just fills right up.
it is less than a teaspoonful.
then set it in the freezer.
let it stay for about an hour.
take it out.
let the water unfreeze.
tap it with a wooden block. /and this one was a tough one.
you can tell by the sound when you tap it with a wooden handle.
when they are ready to break loose the sound is a bit of a rattle.
this one was tight. and, off it came...without any real hard tap.

mel
from mel/minnetonka.mn.usa
website: http://www.pclink.com/melpots
http://home.comcast.net/~figglywig/clayart.htm
for gail's year book.

____________________________________________________________________________
__
Send postings to clayart@lsv.ceramics.org

You may look at the archives for the list or change your subscription
settings from http://www.ceramics.org/clayart/

Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be reached at
melpots@pclink.com.

bonnie staffel on mon 8 aug 05


I am thinking that adding water is an unnecessary option. I have only put
my pot in the freezer, then poured boiling water around the rim and lid, it
pops right off, the physics of heat expansion on the cold object. I started
doing this method about thirty years ago when I was making my special honey
pots. They were a dog to make and when the lid stuck, had to come up with a
quick fix.

I looked up stuck lids in the archives and found many, many old posts
regarding this problem. I wasn't even a part of Clayart as early as 1996
when Elca Branman posted the first one.

Regards,

Bonnie Staffel
http://webpages.charter.net/bstaffel/
http://vasefinder.com/bstaffelgallery1.html
Charter Member Potters Council

Gary Navarre on wed 10 aug 05


Hi Crew,
When I was 16 I took pottery class form "Jack" Foster at The Art School
of the Detroit Society of Arts and Crafts. One of his students was Huroko
Oba of Japanese decent. One day I noticed her immersing a couple of lidded
pots in a sink full of water untill the bubbles stoped and then

On Sun, 7 Aug 2005 06:47:14 -0500, mel jacobson wrote:

>tap it with a wooden block. /and this one was a tough one.
>you can tell by the sound when you tap it with a wooden handle.
>when they are ready to break loose the sound is a bit of a rattle.
>this one was tight. and, off it came...without any real hard tap.

Thanks for that part, Mel, didn't quite know how to explain the sound of
one tap tapping.

John Kudlacek on fri 12 aug 05


Considering the physics involved in tapping pots with any wooden
object, a metal object seens a better choice. The wood absorbs a good
deal of the shock necessary to crack the offending bond. For years I used
a small brass turnbuckle with one end missing to tap free many a lid. Care
of course should be taken to avoid tapping too near the edge of the lip or
lid. I normally held the pot an inch or so off the table with the knob of
the lid which I think helped by preventing the table top from absorbing
some of the shock. Of course the tapping must be measured to avoid
breakage. This is a "first aid" treatment, something to be employed
before using some of the more involved methods already mentioned.
What do you say, Louis?
John Kudlacek

Louis Katz on fri 12 aug 05


Interesting. I have moved towards a recommedation of hardwood. I would
think the same work is transfered roughly speaking either way although
probably less with wood. I don't know enough to make a firm statement.
Brass would just do it over a shorter time, a sharper shock, more force
in a shorter time. Makes me want to try a lump of lead as well. Does
not seem right though. I don't think it would work. As I see a dead
blow hammer comming at the pot I see it traveling right through the pot
with a big hole appearing in it.

Have you read "blink"?

Louis

On Aug 12, 2005, at 8:40 AM, John Kudlacek wrote:

> Considering the physics involved in tapping pots with any wooden
> object, a metal object seens a better choice. The wood absorbs a good
> deal of the shock necessary to crack the offending bond. For years I
> used
> a small brass turnbuckle with one end missing to tap free many a lid.
> Care
> of course should be taken to avoid tapping too near the edge of the
> lip or
> lid. I normally held the pot an inch or so off the table with the knob
> of
> the lid which I think helped by preventing the table top from absorbing
> some of the shock. Of course the tapping must be measured to avoid
> breakage. This is a "first aid" treatment, something to be employed
> before using some of the more involved methods already mentioned.
> What do you say, Louis?
> John Kudlacek
>
> _______________________________________________________________________
> _______
> Send postings to clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
>
> You may look at the archives for the list or change your subscription
> settings from http://www.ceramics.org/clayart/
>
> Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be reached at
> melpots@pclink.com.
>

John Kudlacek on sat 13 aug 05


Hi Louis,
Read of your recent travels recently. Sounds fun and inspiring. I have
not read "Blink" but it is on my short list. Hope the T-shirt is holding
up.
John Kudlacek