BoxerGirl on tue 23 aug 05
Hi there everyone!
Well, I have some questions for ya all...
First, single firing.
I think I want to try it.
Can I out single fired ware on perhaps the lowest shelf of my kiln, away =
from the bisqued-and-glazed pieces in case of breakage, or should I =
really just do one or the opther in a kiln load?
I understand that there is a greater chance of breakage in single =
fireing, but what are the issues I need to be aware of?
In general, what should I know?
Now on to kiln soaking.
First, lemme 'splain my kiln...
Its an old 10 sided electric kiln, about 20" across and 36" deep, top =
loading.
I have converted it to propane, with 2 burners beneath it and a flue =
hole in the lid.
I have no problem getting up to ^11, though I typically fire to ^9-10, =
usually in reduction and since one of my favorite glazes is a =
crystalline, usually cool down to about 2000 f and let it sit there an =
hour.
Not sure if that's exactly how the "pros" do it, but seems to work for =
me.
It is a very temporary kiln - I've been learning on it and firing it for =
about a year and it needs to last another 6 months or so before I =
frankenkiln it into something else. You see, in about 6 months, kiln =
gods willing, I'll have moved back to Ca, and will be building a larger, =
downdraft kiln ;)
I had been firing it with the half shelves that came with it (hey - kiln =
and shelves and posts for $100!) but really wanted whole shelves to give =
me maximum shelf space.
So, I bought some 5/8" thick full round shelves, fully aware that I =
would need to cut them down to fit.
Cut them down to 18" across, drilled a bunch of holes in them to =
increase air flow and began puting them to use.
As I sort of expected, I'm having some uneveness in the temp top to =
bottom, and the bottom shelf has warped a little.
I know I can cut the shelves down a bit more, but hate to do that unless =
there is no alternative.
So, I am wondering if I might be able to extend the life of my shelves =
and even out the kiln temp bty soaking the kiln at about ^9 for a while?
Or finding *some* temp at which I can hold the kiln long enough for the =
ware on the top shelves to flux, without turning the bottom shelves into =
a molten mass.
Another thought I had was to cut away the areas of the lowest shelf =
where the actual flame from the burner hits it, thus giving the flame =
more room to disburse.
Also,can I flip the shelf that warped and fire it to "unwarp" it?
Looking for wisdom and insight!
Thanks!
=20
Cathi Newlin
BoxerGirl@box49.com
=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D
FAYEvision! live, nude boxers
http://www.FAYEvision.com
____________________
My Art
http://c-newlin.deviantart.com/
My Alter Ego
http://www.myspace.com/MrsSlappy
Tony Ferguson on tue 23 aug 05
BoxerGirl,
look for ----- around my responses:
BoxerGirl wrote:
Hi there everyone!
Well, I have some questions for ya all...
First, single firing.
I think I want to try it.
Can I out single fired ware on perhaps the lowest shelf of my kiln, away from the bisqued-and-glazed pieces in case of breakage, or should I really just do one or the opther in a kiln load?
---Yes, you can mix bisque and single fired ware in the same firing. You just need to lengthen your schedule a little bit--but this all depends on the size of your kiln. I have found with many larger kilns becasue of the time it takes them to heat up I don't have to modify the schedule at all with the normal bisque schedule.---
I understand that there is a greater chance of breakage in single fireing, but what are the issues I need to be aware of?
In general, what should I know?
----Of course there is breakage at first but once you figure it out there is nothing cooler than single firing because you quite litterally can make work in the morning, trim, and glaze and night and load the kiln, candle to dry overnight and start firing in the morning. ***First Read Fran Tristram's Single Firing, and ***Dennis Park's Oil firing book. I know John Britt addressing single firing in his new book The Complete Guide to High Fire Glazes--so check what John has to say too. Actually, John's book really offers a tremendous amount of information that could be very useful to you and much better glazes than the other books in my opinion.----
Now on to kiln soaking.
First, lemme 'splain my kiln...
Its an old 10 sided electric kiln, about 20" across and 36" deep, top loading.
I have converted it to propane, with 2 burners beneath it and a flue hole in the lid.
I have no problem getting up to ^11, though I typically fire to ^9-10, usually in reduction and since one of my favorite glazes is a crystalline, usually cool down to about 2000 f and let it sit there an hour.
Not sure if that's exactly how the "pros" do it, but seems to work for me.
It is a very temporary kiln - I've been learning on it and firing it for about a year and it needs to last another 6 months or so before I frankenkiln it into something else. You see, in about 6 months, kiln gods willing, I'll have moved back to Ca, and will be building a larger, downdraft kiln ;)
I had been firing it with the half shelves that came with it (hey - kiln and shelves and posts for $100!) but really wanted whole shelves to give me maximum shelf space.
So, I bought some 5/8" thick full round shelves, fully aware that I would need to cut them down to fit.
Cut them down to 18" across, drilled a bunch of holes in them to increase air flow and began puting them to use.
As I sort of expected, I'm having some uneveness in the temp top to bottom, and the bottom shelf has warped a little.
I know I can cut the shelves down a bit more, but hate to do that unless there is no alternative.
So, I am wondering if I might be able to extend the life of my shelves and even out the kiln temp bty soaking the kiln at about ^9 for a while?
Or finding *some* temp at which I can hold the kiln long enough for the ware on the top shelves to flux, without turning the bottom shelves into a molten mass.
----I would hold the temp at cone 9 and let heat work do the rest to even it out. You may need to look at tweaking your config. You may want to take a thin piece of fiber board and stick it under your bottom shelf--I experimented with this with raku kilns and it worked to well. It may disperse your flames a bit better while protecting that bottom shelf----
Another thought I had was to cut away the areas of the lowest shelf where the actual flame from the burner hits it, thus giving the flame more room to disburse.
---this is a good idea as it sounds like that bottom shelf is taking too much direct flame from your two burners----
Also,can I flip the shelf that warped and fire it to "unwarp" it?
----you can try it---
Best wishes to ya!
Tony Ferguson
Looking for wisdom and insight!
Thanks!
Cathi Newlin
BoxerGirl@box49.com
====================
FAYEvision! live, nude boxers
http://www.FAYEvision.com
____________________
My Art
http://c-newlin.deviantart.com/
My Alter Ego
http://www.myspace.com/MrsSlappy
______________________________________________________________________________
Send postings to clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
You may look at the archives for the list or change your subscription
settings from http://www.ceramics.org/clayart/
Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be reached at melpots@pclink.com.
Tony Ferguson
...where the sky meets the lake...
Duluth, Minnesota
Artist, Educator, Web Meister
fergyart@yahoo.com
fergy@cpinternet.com
(218) 727-6339
http://www.aquariusartgallery.com
http://www.tonyferguson.net
---------------------------------
Start your day with Yahoo! - make it your home page
MudPuppy on wed 24 aug 05
Thanks so much Tony!
Lots of great info and ideas.
I've ordered John Britt's book and hope to have it by the end of the =
week.
I think I will be trying some single firing this weekend, and will look =
at ways to protect that bottom shelf.
Also, Ken Kang pointed out that I may be hurrying my firings, and so I =
will look to slowing them down quite a bit (oh, so impatient!).
Hopefully I'll have a little more success with the next firing.
I'll let you know!
Appreciate all the info and ideas!
Cathi Newlin, Mercer, Mo
MudPuppy@box49.com
http://www.SquarePegArts.com
----- Original Message -----=20
From: Tony Ferguson=20
To: CLAYART@LSV.CERAMICS.ORG=20
Sent: Tuesday, August 23, 2005 6:26 PM
Subject: Re: I Have Questions - Kiln Soaking, Single Firing
BoxerGirl,
look for ----- around my responses:
BoxerGirl wrote:
Hi there everyone!
Well, I have some questions for ya all...
First, single firing.
I think I want to try it.
Can I out single fired ware on perhaps the lowest shelf of my kiln, =
away from the bisqued-and-glazed pieces in case of breakage, or should I =
really just do one or the opther in a kiln load?
---Yes, you can mix bisque and single fired ware in the same firing. =
You just need to lengthen your schedule a little bit--but this all =
depends on the size of your kiln. I have found with many larger kilns =
becasue of the time it takes them to heat up I don't have to modify the =
schedule at all with the normal bisque schedule.---
I understand that there is a greater chance of breakage in single =
fireing, but what are the issues I need to be aware of?
In general, what should I know?
----Of course there is breakage at first but once you figure it out =
there is nothing cooler than single firing because you quite litterally =
can make work in the morning, trim, and glaze and night and load the =
kiln, candle to dry overnight and start firing in the morning. ***First =
Read Fran Tristram's Single Firing, and ***Dennis Park's Oil firing =
book. I know John Britt addressing single firing in his new book The =
Complete Guide to High Fire Glazes--so check what John has to say too. =
Actually, John's book really offers a tremendous amount of information =
that could be very useful to you and much better glazes than the other =
books in my opinion.----
Now on to kiln soaking.
First, lemme 'splain my kiln...
Its an old 10 sided electric kiln, about 20" across and 36" deep, top =
loading.
I have converted it to propane, with 2 burners beneath it and a flue =
hole in the lid.
I have no problem getting up to ^11, though I typically fire to ^9-10, =
usually in reduction and since one of my favorite glazes is a =
crystalline, usually cool down to about 2000 f and let it sit there an =
hour.
Not sure if that's exactly how the "pros" do it, but seems to work for =
me.
It is a very temporary kiln - I've been learning on it and firing it =
for about a year and it needs to last another 6 months or so before I =
frankenkiln it into something else. You see, in about 6 months, kiln =
gods willing, I'll have moved back to Ca, and will be building a larger, =
downdraft kiln ;)
I had been firing it with the half shelves that came with it (hey - =
kiln and shelves and posts for $100!) but really wanted whole shelves to =
give me maximum shelf space.
So, I bought some 5/8" thick full round shelves, fully aware that I =
would need to cut them down to fit.
Cut them down to 18" across, drilled a bunch of holes in them to =
increase air flow and began puting them to use.
As I sort of expected, I'm having some uneveness in the temp top to =
bottom, and the bottom shelf has warped a little.
I know I can cut the shelves down a bit more, but hate to do that =
unless there is no alternative.
So, I am wondering if I might be able to extend the life of my shelves =
and even out the kiln temp bty soaking the kiln at about ^9 for a while?
Or finding *some* temp at which I can hold the kiln long enough for =
the ware on the top shelves to flux, without turning the bottom shelves =
into a molten mass.
----I would hold the temp at cone 9 and let heat work do the rest to =
even it out. You may need to look at tweaking your config. You may =
want to take a thin piece of fiber board and stick it under your bottom =
shelf--I experimented with this with raku kilns and it worked to well. =
It may disperse your flames a bit better while protecting that bottom =
shelf----
Another thought I had was to cut away the areas of the lowest shelf =
where the actual flame from the burner hits it, thus giving the flame =
more room to disburse.
---this is a good idea as it sounds like that bottom shelf is taking =
too much direct flame from your two burners----
Also,can I flip the shelf that warped and fire it to "unwarp" it?
----you can try it---
Best wishes to ya!
Tony Ferguson
Looking for wisdom and insight!
Thanks!
Cathi Newlin
BoxerGirl@box49.com
=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D
FAYEvision! live, nude boxers
http://www.FAYEvision.com
____________________
My Art
http://c-newlin.deviantart.com/
My Alter Ego
http://www.myspace.com/MrsSlappy
=
_________________________________________________________________________=
_____
Send postings to clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
You may look at the archives for the list or change your subscription
settings from http://www.ceramics.org/clayart/
Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be reached at =
melpots@pclink.com.
Tony Ferguson
...where the sky meets the lake...
Duluth, Minnesota
Artist, Educator, Web Meister
fergyart@yahoo.com
fergy@cpinternet.com
(218) 727-6339
http://www.aquariusartgallery.com
http://www.tonyferguson.net
---------------------------------
Start your day with Yahoo! - make it your home page
=
_________________________________________________________________________=
_____
Send postings to clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
You may look at the archives for the list or change your subscription
settings from http://www.ceramics.org/clayart/
Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be reached at =
melpots@pclink.com.
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