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at the end of the fire

updated sat 27 aug 05

 

bill edwards on thu 25 aug 05


I finally was able to pull the pieces from the kiln.
This firing exceeded the usual time by almost 4 hours
on ramp down settings. After all this time there were
few pieces that I would say are more remarkable than
my ramp/hold that I have always used in the past.
Keeping in mind that many glazes were used for testing
and yes, one held onto a shelf but I salvaged the
shelf.

I will post a few pics to my BLOG tommorow if I get a
chance. My old glazes that I had from over 3 years
back were troopers. I'm from the South so I will say,
'Bless their hearts'. The new ones were fun and some
were exciting. The many years of testing prior to the
flood loss and getting going again in testing has
proven one thing.... I did a decent job with those old
glazes and they held up well over time and fired as if
they were made today.

I did get some nice rutile washes on my black which
shines in the light and the white where I had
turquoise bands on the outside of some mugs were
intereting effects. My old Shocking Shino seemed to
crystalize more than ever over the rest where wash was
applied and reminded me of Temoku where I had sprayed
my black part way down on a mug over the SS and hit it
with the wash. This is NOT something I would do on a
regular basis because it is too time consuming and I
have another glaze that I wrote which out performs all
this work and can be done in one dip in the glaze
bucket.

3-D Blue is not suitable for this kind of firing. It's
green counterpart worked ok. Swapping that colorant
over to my studio base and will give it another twirl.

What I learned, even with temperature drops at 100
Degree's F per hr. There is little difference in
common bases I use for ^6 that are achieved at 150
degree drops over 2 segments instead of 4. Slow firing
and a few hours seems to max out my glazes and there
were a total of 8 bases in use and several washes. My
Matte glazes were just as nice and the ammount of
crystalization was just as exciting with a few
exceptions not worthy of repeating due to all the
extra work and time involved. I would recommend
spraying if you can over a dipped piece which helps
because you aren't saturating as heavy in one area and
you can focus more glaze toward the top which breaks
well and doesn't seem to flow so bad, spraying is
tricky and I have airbrushed for years. It's all a
matter of getting the heat right, getting good glazes
that work and applying all those techniques over and
over till you have a winning combination. Stick with a
few and work with them over the long haul and learn to
make them dance for you. (This will be for the new
potters mostly)

Also I will note that I was using various clay in this
test since I am looking for those that are honest ^6
clays. The two I have always used are the two I will
continue to use. Clays are just as important as the
glazes IMHO and they both need to work together well.

I'm tired so I am being redundant I think?

While I waited out the kiln to drop to 176 Degree's I
throwed some onion forms from porcelain and sweated
with anxiety a little or maybe from the heat and was
thinking back to last week when I fired my glazes to
^11 R at Midland. I wanted to see some abuse two weeks
in a row and I got it down now I think. Next week,
more testing, more colorants added to some of my old
base recipes that treated me well and off we go again.
Till next time....




Bill Edwards
Edmar Studio and Gallery
302 South Main St (Shipping)
POB 367 (Mailing)
Camp Hill, Al. 36850
http://apottersmark.blogspot.com/



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Ann Brink on fri 26 aug 05


Hi Bill,

Nice effect on that black mug- I can see that spraying can give a more
shaded effect than brushing the wash. Just yesterday I posted a photo of a
black vase with a brushed rutile wash here www.annsgoodies.blogspot.com if
you want to see it. My photo was not taken in the sunshine as yours was, but
the sparkles are there.

The wash recipe I use is one Chris Shafale posted on Clayart years ago:
150 g Gerstley Borate, 20g rutile, 5 g titanium, mixed with water to a
skim-milk consistency. This causes change and movement at cone 6, so for
higher cones, I would reduce the GB.

Ann Brink in Lompoc CA- glad your "first" firing was a good one.
>
> I did get some nice rutile washes on my black which
> shines in the light >

> Bill Edwards
> Edmar Studio and Gallery
> 302 South Main St (Shipping)
> POB 367 (Mailing)
> Camp Hill, Al. 36850
> http://apottersmark.blogspot.com/
>
>
>
> ____________________________________________________
> Start your day with Yahoo! - make it your home page
> http://www.yahoo.com/r/hs
>
>
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