Leland Hall on tue 30 aug 05
Well, the load-bearing north wall is finished and ready for insulation, and
I've done all I can think to do with the rafters in regards to fire damage.
It's time to begin insulating. I'm really dreading installing the lid.
(ceiling) Sheetrock (drywall/gypsom wall board) is so heavy and although
I'm confident I can rent sheetrock jacks I'm still not savoring this task.
I'm wondering if there is some lighter weight alternative? (I don't think
I'm interested in a drop ceiling)
I've cruised the web to no avail, and also dropped in at the not so local
Lowes Home Improvement center, and didn't find anything useful.
Think I'm stuck with installing drywall up there? (it's over twelve ft. on
the high side! Whew.
Thanks
Leland Hall
Before The Wheel Enterprises
Raku Pottery and Sculpture
La Pine, OR
Wow, below freezing tonight!
William & Susan Schran User on tue 30 aug 05
On 8/30/05 2:11 AM, "Leland Hall" wrote:
> I'm wondering if there is some lighter weight alternative? (I don't think
> I'm interested in a drop ceiling)
Have you checked into the process many commercial builders are using on the
exterior of structures? It's a process of "styrofoam" (or similar material)
sheets with a stucco like material spread over it. I think it's named
"drivit" (pronounced: drive it). There are also other brands. It's actually
a cement coating, applied like a skim coat of plaster.
There have been many lawsuits with this material, issues of moisture getting
behind it and rotting the wood support structures. But with an inside
application, this won't be an issue.
The material will not be as heavy as wallboard, but it certainly will be a
messier installation.
Here's some web sites to start looking at:
http://www.senergy.cc/pages/wall%20systems/wm_eifs.html
http://www.grailcoat.com/
--
William "Bill" Schran
Fredericksburg, Virginia
Wayne Seidl on tue 30 aug 05
Um, Leland?
Why install drywall? You can get a fire retardant ceiling texture
(like the popcorn stuff they spray on drywall ceilings) and simply
spray the entire rafter/underside of the roof sheathing/whatever is
up there. It comes in white, so it's going to be light reflective
anyway.
Or do you "need" a flat ceiling? If you are doing it simply to hold
up the insulation, I would suggest the lightest panel you can find.
Usually 1/8 poly, available at farm stores to line cattle stalls.
I've seen people use heavy canvas tarp, stapled to the rafters, and
sprayed white. I've also seen people use foam core board, and one
that used simply 4X8 sheets of that white Styrofoam insulation
board, and painted it later. Heck, no one is walking on it!
I don't know if that's a good idea if you have heat under it though.
Or you can go the drywall route, and rent the jacks, tape all the
joints, etc. PITA, if you ask me. I would rather hire that part
out.
Check into other options before you go through all that work.
Just my 2=A2
Wayne Seidl
Think I'm stuck with installing drywall up there? (it's over twelve
ft. on
the high side! Whew.
Thanks
Leland Hall
Before The Wheel Enterprises
Raku Pottery and Sculpture
La Pine, OR
Wow, below freezing tonight!
Marcia Selsor on tue 30 aug 05
Leland,
Get a tall sheetrock jack and some helping hands. I did my studio
ceiling alone with a jack. It was a pain but do-able.
Marcia Selsor
in Montana
really below freezing already? hope we stay a little warmer for a
while. I have a bumper crop of tomatoes and cucumbers.
On Aug 30, 2005, at 12:11 AM, Leland Hall wrote:
> Well, the load-bearing north wall is finished and ready for
> insulation, and
> I've done all I can think to do with the rafters in regards to fire
> damage.
>
> It's time to begin insulating. I'm really dreading installing the
> lid.
> (ceiling) Sheetrock (drywall/gypsom wall board) is so heavy and
> although
> I'm confident I can rent sheetrock jacks I'm still not savoring
> this task.
>
> I'm wondering if there is some lighter weight alternative? (I
> don't think
> I'm interested in a drop ceiling)
>
> I've cruised the web to no avail, and also dropped in at the not so
> local
> Lowes Home Improvement center, and didn't find anything useful.
>
> Think I'm stuck with installing drywall up there? (it's over
> twelve ft. on
> the high side! Whew.
>
> Thanks
> Leland Hall
> Before The Wheel Enterprises
> Raku Pottery and Sculpture
> La Pine, OR
>
> Wow, below freezing tonight!
Valice Raffi on tue 30 aug 05
Hi Leland,
I took out the drywall on an 8 ft. ceiling, left the trusses exposed and
insulated the inside of the roof between the studs. I sure don't mind the
look, but I wish I'd put in roof turbines at that time (it was one of those
things I forgot!)
Valice
in Las Cruces, NM
>Well, the load-bearing north wall is finished and ready for insulation, and
>I've done all I can think to do with the rafters in regards to fire damage.
>
>It's time to begin insulating. I'm really dreading installing the lid.
>(ceiling) Sheetrock (drywall/gypsom wall board) is so heavy and although
>I'm confident I can rent sheetrock jacks I'm still not savoring this task.
>
>I'm wondering if there is some lighter weight alternative? (I don't think
>I'm interested in a drop ceiling)
>
>I've cruised the web to no avail, and also dropped in at the not so local
>Lowes Home Improvement center, and didn't find anything useful.
>
>Think I'm stuck with installing drywall up there? (it's over twelve ft. on
>the high side! Whew.
>
>Thanks
>Leland Hall
>Before The Wheel Enterprises
>Raku Pottery and Sculpture
>La Pine, OR
>
>Wow, below freezing tonight!
>
>______________________________________________________________________________
>Send postings to clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
>
>You may look at the archives for the list or change your subscription
>settings from http://www.ceramics.org/clayart/
>
>Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be reached at melpots@pclink.com.
Louis Katz on tue 30 aug 05
Among the reasons there is so much drywall in the world is:
1. Its cheap
2. It is reasonable fire protection at an affordable price.
3. Its smooth.
IMHO U need ----Dry wall jack and young strong smart hired help, some
scaffolding.
Louis
On Aug 30, 2005, at 1:11 AM, Leland Hall wrote:
> Think I'm stuck with installing drywall up there? (it's over twelve
> ft. on
> the high side! Whew.
>
>
Probably 100 here today, Humid too.
L. P. Skeen on tue 30 aug 05
Well, can I be the devil's advocate??? If he's got the roof on, why can't
he put in insulation and then screw in some roofing tin? It's not white,
but it is lightweight, and could possibly be painted if first coated with
Kilz. At our Home Despot the 12ft sheets cost about $12 each, so I know
it's more expensive, but if he DIDN"T have to hire help and a jack thingy,
it might even out. Cuts easily with tin snips and won't leave dusty
crumbles everywhere. :)
L
----- Original Message -----
From: "Louis Katz"
> Among the reasons there is so much drywall in the world is:
> 1. Its cheap
> 2. It is reasonable fire protection at an affordable price.
> 3. Its smooth.
> IMHO U need ----Dry wall jack and young strong smart hired help, some
> scaffolding.
Carl Finch on tue 30 aug 05
At 08:46 AM 8/30/2005, Louis Katz wrote:
>Among the reasons there is so much drywall in the world is:
>1. Its cheap
>2. It is reasonable fire protection at an affordable price.
>3. Its smooth.
>IMHO U need ----Dry wall jack and young strong smart hired help, some
>scaffolding.
Agreed.
I considered hanging my own drywall, two floors, 9-foot ceilings. And
renting a jack, and enlisting (OK, shanghaiing really) my wife to assist.
But I was surprised when I finally got a bid--faaaar less $$ than ever I
imagined (they can buy the drywall much cheaper than I can). And those
"young, strong, hired" guys used the 12-foot stuff (too heavy for me--I'd
have had to use the 8'). In exactly four hours they hung the entire
interior, both floors, 720 sq. feet each. And hauled away all the
scrap. (We finished it ourselves--tape, mud, and paint)
I know you're not lookin' for places to spend even more money, Leland, but
I've never heard anyone say how glad they were to have done drywalling
themselves!
--Carl
in Medford, Oregon
pdp1@EARTHLINK.NET on tue 30 aug 05
Hi Leyland,
12 foot ceilings do make drywall installation more interesting.
One possibility is to do two layers of thinner drywall...that is, instead of
useing 5/8ths or
1/2 inch, use two layers of 1/4 or 3/8ths and stagger the seams of course.
One can also use half sheets of either initially 8 foot or 10 foot, making
them 4 x 4 or 4 x 5 and hence easier to manage, but since their end edges
are not eased, it makes for lumpier seams of course.
Another method, is to have two ladders, and a friend...
Are you intending sheet rock as a Fire-Code compliance or Insurance
requirement?
If not, if all you need is something to keep the insulation sections from
sagging, then you could use anything, masonite or thin plywood with thin
battons over the seams, or whatever to make a finished look for painting
out.
I think if it was me, I'd insulate well, and just use 1/2 inch sheetrock,
have two tall enough folding ladders and a friend and use the regular 8 foot
sheets.
That or hire this part out.
One can also make a device, two of them actually, which may aid getting
these sort of sheets up there -
One takes a length of 2 x 4 which is about an inch or two less than the
floor to joist bottom height.
On both ends, one affixes a two foot long or so section of 2 x 4 with a
stout door hinge...so when nt tilted it is a kind of Roman Capital "I". The
Hinge of course n each end allows only a one-way pivot.
On one of these, one drives small nails through so maybe 1/8th inch of their
tips poke through, or uses longer nails and clips them off so that they have
only some short points. This will grip the sheet rock.
In effect, two people then, with a little finesse and practice, can lift a
sheet by hand, to say shoulder height, set their jigs under it for the right
balance, hoist it up, and as the long 2 x 4 sections become almost vertical,
they will of course jam the sheet rock against the bottoms of the ceiling
joists. The bottom hinged piece of 2 x 4 slides on the floor at the last of
it's motion before jamming snug. One makes whatever adjustments to the sheet
as are needed as one's assistant manages the tightening or lessening of the
two kickers...then, nail off or screw off and do the next sheet.
Planning ahead for the angle and side margainal side thrust of the angle of
the long section is
some of how one gets the steet against whatever edge one wants it.
I have done this alone by screwing in temporary short lengths of 2 x 4
cleats against the wall tops or onto the last sheet's edge or end, to make a
lip for one end or edge of a sheet to get jammed into to stay put while I
lift the other edge
and push, to get the other end or side end up the rest of the way, on 8 foot
cielings anyway, with or sometimes without such a site-made Jack, and it is
tedious that way but gets it done if one has no helpers to assist.
12 foot is a long way up there...
Phil
Las Vegas
----- Original Message -----
From: "Leland Hall"
> Well, the load-bearing north wall is finished and ready for insulation,
and
> I've done all I can think to do with the rafters in regards to fire
damage.
>
> It's time to begin insulating. I'm really dreading installing the lid.
> (ceiling) Sheetrock (drywall/gypsom wall board) is so heavy and although
> I'm confident I can rent sheetrock jacks I'm still not savoring this task.
>
> I'm wondering if there is some lighter weight alternative? (I don't think
> I'm interested in a drop ceiling)
>
> I've cruised the web to no avail, and also dropped in at the not so local
> Lowes Home Improvement center, and didn't find anything useful.
>
> Think I'm stuck with installing drywall up there? (it's over twelve ft.
on
> the high side! Whew.
>
> Thanks
> Leland Hall
Tom at Hutchtel.net on tue 30 aug 05
People, you're not listening to Leland....he's got a 12' ceiling in a cold
climate....the dumbest thing he could do is not sheetrock the work space,
unless he gets great joy in sending money to the gas or electric or oil
company. And he's sounds like he's in a code intensive area, not out in the
boonies like we or David are. C'mon, before we give advice, let's think
about the situation!
Tom Wirt
Steve Slatin on tue 30 aug 05
Leland --
Why is it you say you think you're not interested in a
dropped-in ceiling? My experience is that they are
easy, light, allow good access for when you need to
get into the 'attic' area, and can be installed
quickly without specialized equipment. I kicked some
rolls of insulation into mine after dropping in, and
the result was a good insulation seal without any
special effort.
-- Steve S.
--- Leland Hall wrote:
> Well, the load-bearing north wall is finished and
> ready for insulation, and
> I've done all I can think to do with the rafters in
> regards to fire damage.
>
Steve Slatin --
Drove downtown in the rain
9:30 on a Tuesday night
Just to check out the
Late night record shop
__________________________________
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Arnold Howard on wed 31 aug 05
----- Original Message -----
From: "Steve Slatin"
> Why is it you say you think you're not interested in a
> dropped-in ceiling? My experience is that they are
> easy, light, allow good access for when you need to
> get into the 'attic' area, and can be installed
> quickly without specialized equipment.
If you hire a couple of athletic high school kids to do the lifting, drywall
is not difficult to install. A variable-speed drill with screw bit speeds up
the job. But if the joists or rafters are spaced unevenly, then a dropped-in
ceiling would be easier to install than drywall.
Sincerely,
Arnold Howard
Paragon Industries, L.P., Mesquite, Texas USA
ahoward@paragonweb.com / www.paragonweb.com
Leland Hall on wed 31 aug 05
Mornin' Gang, what a great bunch of ideas. Thanks!
I expect some of y'all are gonna want to come out here and hang me instead
of help me, 'cause I forgot to mention when I initialy posed the question
that, yes, fire retardant, and yes, pobably able to hold up to the prying
eye of county inspectors. Sorry for that ommision.
Funny thing is, is that I DO live out in the sticks. Big time. But the
county seat, Bend, (30 miles north) dictates what happens down here in our
little corner of nowhere. And furthermore, our little corner of nowhere
has been discovered and there is a building boom, with something 1500 homes
being built this year alone. (that in a town of 7000) Fortunately, I'm at
the edge of the swamp, so I wont be getting any new neighbors, but still,
lots and lots of rules.
Now, the only inspector I'm going to be dealing with will be on the
electric, when that time comes. Still, the ceiling is going to have to
look like I at least TRIED to do it right. There not going to be TOO
picky, since it's an existing building.
It kind of looks like I don't have too many options. Gypsom wallboard I
think it will be. I'm steering away from the notion of a drop ceiling
because of the smoke damage to some of the rafters. I beefed up all the
rafters by sliding an extra 2x6 along side each one and nailing them
together. This after scraping off a little charcoal here and there. I
also added another 4x6 cross-ways right down the middle. (it should have
been there to begin with) With a drop ceiling, it would be to easy for
an "official" to stick his head up in there and complain.
The idea I like the best is hiring "youngsters" to get this done. I'll
start making calls today to see if I can find somebody that isn't booked
till next year. That's going to be the trick. Waiting. Yuck.
Thanks guys
Leland Hall
Before The Wheel
La Pine, OR
USA
Jim Champion on wed 31 aug 05
I turning my garage into a studio and I've just finished putting in the insulation. I too didn't want to do the sheet-rock thing so I decided to to use 1/4" luon (spelling? tried to find the spelling of this but couldn't,pronounced lou-on and is used as a sub flooring has a smooth surface that paints well sold as 4'x8' sheets). Sheet rock was going to cost me about $6 a sheet plus supplies and take two to three time longer. The luon cost $10 a sheet. A $40 difference for my 12 x 20 studio but I save on time and I save my back and neck in the process. I plan on cutting a two inch strip off an extra sheet on luon to cover the joints. With a nail gun you could have the ceiling up in no time. I won't get to this project until next weekend or the next but I'll send pics when I do. You can also contact me off list if you have any question.
Jim Champion
Louisville, KY
Landlocked by the edge of a bluegrass sea
pdp1@EARTHLINK.NET on wed 31 aug 05
Hi Arnold, Leyland, all...
If some of the ceiling joists are not quite on schedule of 16 inch or 24
inch centers, it is really a fairly easy matter to add to their sides some
additional lengths of 2 x 4 to get the spacing so the sheetrock ends have
something to nail or screw to.
If it is only their bellies that are off, then one may add or re-do blocking
between them to bring matters into a neat schedule.
For that matter, if the end of a sheet falls in an open space between
(decidely or severely uneven, or non-schedule) joists or rafters, it is easy
(once that steet is up,) to merely screw to that end some scrap wood or
plywood that spans their width and most of the space between existing
centers, and screw to it, so the end of the next sheet also shares it.
Letting these backing pieces be long enough also for the middle of the next
sheet to have some of it.
If the existing spaceing is fairly good, but is off-schedule from the wall
or both walls, one merely cuts the first sheet accordingly to the length
which suits the impirical run.
Too, it really does not matter if the ends are per-se on a joist or rafter,
as long as they have something behind them to fasten to, and, in theory, to
make them snug against flexing or being weak there, where, aside frm
unsightlyness if they did, if the seams and mud crack, Air could enter and
nourish the appetite of fire.
.
It is a shame to waste existing space, or high storage space, with making
dropped ceilings I think...
Phil
Las Vegas
----- Original Message -----
From: "Arnold Howard"
> If you hire a couple of athletic high school kids to do the lifting,
drywall
> is not difficult to install. A variable-speed drill with screw bit speeds
up
> the job. But if the joists or rafters are spaced unevenly, then a
dropped-in
> ceiling would be easier to install than drywall.
>
> Sincerely,
>
> Arnold Howard
> Paragon Industries, L.P., Mesquite, Texas USA
> ahoward@paragonweb.com / www.paragonweb.com
claybair on wed 31 aug 05
Leland,
Call your local HS or youth services
they should have a list of kids willing to
do all kinds. Here they are energetic
and the cost is quite reasonable.
Gayle Bair
Bainbridge Island, WA
Tucson, AZ
http://claybair.com
-----Original Message-----
From: Leland Hall
Snip<
The idea I like the best is hiring "youngsters" to get this done. I'll
start making calls today to see if I can find somebody that isn't booked
till next year. That's going to be the trick. Waiting. Yuck.
Thanks guys
Leland Hall
Before The Wheel
La Pine, OR
USA
--
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Checked by AVG Anti-Virus.
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Gordon Ward on wed 31 aug 05
Hi Leland,
One of the drags about gypsum board is sanding seams. I found out
recently that you can get great results with no sanding. I picked it
up from an "old timer". After applying the seam tape, just apply thin
coats of "mud" with your trowel. Before the next coat just take the
trowel's sharp edge and scrape off any little ridges. It will take an
extra coat or two, but the thin layers dry faster, and no sanding.
Maybe you don't care about perfect seams in your studio, but it is easy
and actually kind of fun.
If you are expecting a bit of heat above your kiln, use the sticky
fiberglass tape instead of paper tape. The paper tape is prone to
peeling off over time.
Gordon
On Aug 31, 2005, at 6:31 AM, Leland Hall wrote:
> a great bunch of ideas. Thanks!
Wayne Seidl on wed 31 aug 05
Sorry Gordon, but I have to point out a better solution.
Dust, whether gypsum, silica, fairy, what-have-you
will murder your lungs.
To easily sand drywall seams, all you need is a synthetic sponge,
one of those 4X6 yellow ones for washing autos, and a bucket of
water.
Soak the sponge in the water, squeeze it out (mostly) dry, and rub
it on the dried compounded seam. It's called "wet-sanding", and it
does the trick with no mess, and NO dust floating around to land on
every other surface in the area. You can even do it with the AC
running, and no dust gets in the ducting.
Combined with your thin coats, that would be a quick and easy
solution. And anything that gets _this_ bulky body off a ladder
faster is a good thing in my book.
Best Regards,
Wayne Seidl
-----Original Message-----
From: Clayart [mailto:CLAYART@LSV.CERAMICS.ORG] On Behalf Of Gordon
Ward
Sent: Wednesday, August 31, 2005 3:52 PM
To: CLAYART@LSV.CERAMICS.ORG
Subject: Re: Studio ceiling : sheetrock alternative?
Hi Leland,
One of the drags about gypsum board is sanding seams. I found out
recently that you can get great results with no sanding. I picked
it
up from an "old timer". After applying the seam tape, just apply
thin
coats of "mud" with your trowel. Before the next coat just take the
trowel's sharp edge and scrape off any little ridges. It will take
an
extra coat or two, but the thin layers dry faster, and no sanding.
Maybe you don't care about perfect seams in your studio, but it is
easy
and actually kind of fun.
If you are expecting a bit of heat above your kiln, use the sticky
fiberglass tape instead of paper tape. The paper tape is prone to
peeling off over time.
Gordon
On Aug 31, 2005, at 6:31 AM, Leland Hall wrote:
> a great bunch of ideas. Thanks!
____________________________________________________________________
__________
Send postings to clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
You may look at the archives for the list or change your
subscription
settings from http://www.ceramics.org/clayart/
Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be reached at
melpots@pclink.com.
pdp1@EARTHLINK.NET on wed 31 aug 05
Hi Wayne,
Good mention...
Too, as you know, but as elude many, if the mud-and-tape have been applied
nicely and with care, there is very little irregularity for sanding or other
to deal with.
And if there are some little blips, as you mention, a damp Sponge is realy a
very nice method, and the one I also prefer.
Too, depending in the intentions for final texture or finish, very little
even or none at all of 'wet' or damp Sponge work should have to occur so
long as the preceeding operations have been done well, of course.
How it is that some operatives apply the mud badly or roughly or so
sloppily, and have a lot of 'sanding' or remediations or too many
sub-sequent applications to get close, is
not at all the measure of the reality of the tasks being done right. But
that has become the usual association in most people's minds from it so
often being the case. That and clouds of dusts settleing everywhere or
tracked through their homes if a remodel.
Simple old time Skip-Trowell textures are easy to do, use very little
material, and are enough to deliver an otherwise boreingly 'flat' surface
unto an easy on the eye quality. Fr which also the slightly damp Sponge is
all one needs to ease whatever little tips or blips as may be.
I doubt hardly any practioners do these any more, where, the
'diarhea-machines' instead just puke out all them dribbles and they call it
'macaronii'...and spray the damned thing with an airless anyway...
Yeeeeesh...
...all this talk about these things is making me have fantasies about
building buildings again!
Lol...
Oh well...
Phil
el ve
----- Original Message -----
From: "Wayne Seidl"
Sorry Gordon, but I have to point out a better solution.
Dust, whether gypsum, silica, fairy, what-have-you
will murder your lungs.
To easily sand drywall seams, all you need is a synthetic sponge,
one of those 4X6 yellow ones for washing autos, and a bucket of
water.
Soak the sponge in the water, squeeze it out (mostly) dry, and rub
it on the dried compounded seam. It's called "wet-sanding", and it
does the trick with no mess, and NO dust floating around to land on
every other surface in the area. You can even do it with the AC
running, and no dust gets in the ducting.
Combined with your thin coats, that would be a quick and easy
solution. And anything that gets _this_ bulky body off a ladder
faster is a good thing in my book.
Best Regards,
Wayne Seidl
Christine Martin on wed 31 aug 05
>It's time to begin insulating. I'm really dreading installing the =
lid.
>(ceiling) Sheetrock (drywall/gypsom wall board) is so heavy and =
although
>I'm confident I can rent sheetrock jacks I'm still not savoring this =
task.
>
>I'm wondering if there is some lighter weight alternative? (I don't =
think
>I'm interested in a drop ceiling)
>
>I've cruised the web to no avail, and also dropped in at the not so =
local
>Lowes Home Improvement center, and didn't find anything useful.
>
>Think I'm stuck with installing drywall up there? (it's over twelve =
ft. on
>the high side! Whew.
hello leland - i have been swamped with clayart mail and may have =
missed if someone else has already suggested this. but one easier =
(although probably more expensive) alternative is to put up a tin =
ceiling. they are beautiful, lightweight, easy to install and they come =
painted or plain. we used to live in an old brownstone in brooklyn that =
had tin ceilings in every room. here is one link on where to get those: =
http://www.mbossinc.com/, but i'm sure if you put "tin ceiling" into =
google, you may find a couple dozen other places. hope this helps,
christine
Leland Hall on thu 1 sep 05
Yes, that's what I'm talking about! Those drywall lifts look pretty
slick! I've been checking those out on the web. And I see that some of
them will lift to 15', I'm needing only 13' on the high end. (this is
a "lean to" type building, no ridge, 13' on the high end, 8' on the low")
Also I see that most of these lifts have a pivoting head so as to
accomadate "cathedral" ceilings. This should work.
I would love to hear from others that have used these lifts. Are they easy
to use? Any tips on use? Advice? Glitches with this equipment?
On a side note, I got sidetracked from insulating. The machine/metal shop
is a lean-to scabbed on to the south end of the studio, which was unharmed
by the fire. (thank the stars, there is a lifetimes collection of tools in
there) The studio got a new metal roof last year. This is probably why it
didn't totaly burn. Anyway, the machine shop has needed metal on the roof
for years. Rotten old roll compisition roofing. I had to purchase two 24'
pieces of metal to replace damaged metal on the north end of the studio.
The new pieces came delivered packaged with three 10' "cover sheets" of new
metal, and close to 150' linear ft of 1"x4" fir boards as stiffiners.
Wow. Free roofing and lumber for batts! I spent yesterday using these
free materials to put metal roof on the machine shop! Almost finished with
that. Hope to insulate this weekend, Then on to the ceiling.
Leland Hall
Before The Wheel
La Pine, OR
<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
On Thu, 1 Sep 2005 12:30:33 +1000, Leonard Smith
wrote:
>When we put in a new ceiling in our gallery, I was able to hire a special
>hoist made for the purpose. On wheels I loaded a sheet on to it, on its
>side, flip the sheet flat, then use a wheel and pulley system to lift it
>into position where it is held while you use a cordless drill to screw it
to
>the joists. East peasy!!! Made a hard job simple, and single handed.
>
>Maybe you local sheet supplier has one for hire?
>
>
>
>Leonard Smith
>Rosedale Street Gallery
>2A Rosedale Street
>Dulwich Hill NSW Australia 2203
>Email: Leonard@rosedalestreetgallery.com
>http://www.rosedalestreetgallery.com
>
>___________________________________________________________________________
___
Leonard Smith on thu 1 sep 05
When we put in a new ceiling in our gallery, I was able to hire a special
hoist made for the purpose. On wheels I loaded a sheet on to it, on its
side, flip the sheet flat, then use a wheel and pulley system to lift it
into position where it is held while you use a cordless drill to screw it to
the joists. East peasy!!! Made a hard job simple, and single handed.
Maybe you local sheet supplier has one for hire?
Leonard Smith
Rosedale Street Gallery
2A Rosedale Street
Dulwich Hill NSW Australia 2203
Email: Leonard@rosedalestreetgallery.com
http://www.rosedalestreetgallery.com
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