Rose Bauer on wed 31 aug 05
Hi All,
Has anyone out there ever heard of, built and/or fired an oil drip kiln?
I've searched the archives and the web for plans..... to no avail.
I'm currently working on some high relief wall pieces which are handbuilt
using paperclay. They are terra sig'd, bisqued and then raku fired to cone
012 before being moved to reduction buckets for smoking. Due to the uneven
thickness of the pieces, I have a 50/50 chance of them coming through the
process intact. Not good enough as they are very time consuming to make.
I'm looking for a less aggressive way to achieve the unglazed, ebony like
surfaces. Reducing them in the kiln rather than thermal shocking them
during the trip to the reduction bucket may just be the kicker.
Any ideas?
rose bauer
in the shadow of the Canadian Rockies
pic of wall box that survived the move ...
http://www.flickr.com/photos/clayart
Hank Murrow on wed 31 aug 05
On Aug 30, 2005, at 9:33 PM, Rose Bauer wrote:
> Hi All,
>
> Has anyone out there ever heard of, built and/or fired an oil drip
> kiln?
> I've searched the archives and the web for plans..... to no avail
Dear Rose;
I built such a kiln for my terminal project at the U of Oregon. Fired
to Cone 10 in 12 hours on ten gallons of stove oil. Email me if
interested.
Cheeers, Hank
www.murrow.biz/hank
Marcia Selsor on wed 31 aug 05
You can search the archives of Studio Potter from about 1973 Vol. 2
(I think). Gives specific directions and explanations.
The book, Studio Potter has it in there as well. Printed in 1978.
Marcia Selsor
On Aug 31, 2005, at 6:23 AM, Hank Murrow wrote:
> On Aug 30, 2005, at 9:33 PM, Rose Bauer wrote:
>
>
>> Hi All,
>>
>> Has anyone out there ever heard of, built and/or fired an oil drip
>> kiln?
>> I've searched the archives and the web for plans..... to no avail
>>
>
> Dear Rose;
>
> I built such a kiln for my terminal project at the U of Oregon. Fired
> to Cone 10 in 12 hours on ten gallons of stove oil. Email me if
> interested.
>
> Cheeers, Hank
> www.murrow.biz/hank
Frank Colson on wed 31 aug 05
Rose- I guess you missed my posting on this subject not too long ago. You
can go to my site (below) and download a diagram and functionary remarks for
a self generating liquid oil burner, gratis! This info and diagram first
appeared in 1975 in my publication: "Kiln Building with Space Age
Materials"; Van Nostrand Reinhold, NYC.
Although this book is out of print, it is available in more than 500
libraries in the country. In some specific southern states you might find
this soaking wet, complements of hurricane Katrina.
Frank Colson
www.R2D2u.com
----- Original Message -----
From: "Marcia Selsor"
To:
Sent: Wednesday, August 31, 2005 9:26 AM
Subject: Re: the elusive oil drip kiln.....
> You can search the archives of Studio Potter from about 1973 Vol. 2
> (I think). Gives specific directions and explanations.
> The book, Studio Potter has it in there as well. Printed in 1978.
> Marcia Selsor
>
> On Aug 31, 2005, at 6:23 AM, Hank Murrow wrote:
>
> > On Aug 30, 2005, at 9:33 PM, Rose Bauer wrote:
> >
> >
> >> Hi All,
> >>
> >> Has anyone out there ever heard of, built and/or fired an oil drip
> >> kiln?
> >> I've searched the archives and the web for plans..... to no avail
> >>
> >
> > Dear Rose;
> >
> > I built such a kiln for my terminal project at the U of Oregon. Fired
> > to Cone 10 in 12 hours on ten gallons of stove oil. Email me if
> > interested.
> >
> > Cheeers, Hank
> > www.murrow.biz/hank
>
>
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Steve Mills on tue 6 sep 05
Catching up after a long spell away from the list
Daniel Rhodes Part 2 Chapter 1 of Kilns, Design, Construction, and
Operation, illustrates 2 types of drip oil burner. Very simple and
effective, but they do generate a fair bit of smoke!
Steve
Bath
UK
In message , Rose Bauer writes
>Hi All,
>
>Has anyone out there ever heard of, built and/or fired an oil drip kiln?
>I've searched the archives and the web for plans..... to no avail.
>
>I'm currently working on some high relief wall pieces which are handbuilt
>using paperclay. They are terra sig'd, bisqued and then raku fired to con=
>e
>012 before being moved to reduction buckets for smoking. Due to the uneve=
>n
>thickness of the pieces, I have a 50/50 chance of them coming through the
>process intact. Not good enough as they are very time consuming to make.
>
>I'm looking for a less aggressive way to achieve the unglazed, ebony like
>surfaces. Reducing them in the kiln rather than thermal shocking them
>during the trip to the reduction bucket may just be the kicker.
>
>Any ideas?
>
>rose bauer
>in the shadow of the Canadian Rockies
>
>pic of wall box that survived the move ...
>
>http://www.flickr.com/photos/clayart
--
Steve Mills
Bath
UK
Marcia Selsor on tue 6 sep 05
> Rose,
I fired to ^10 with oil but never fired raku with it. Here are a few
ideas about your thoughts.
First, oil doesn't burn well until the temperature in the kiln is
hot. It works easier if you start with oily rags or better yet, gas.
A kiln for an oil drip system needs a reconfigured combustion chamber
to accommodate the oil flame and to avoid "clinker" buildup. That is
a buildup of carbonized inefficient burning of oil.
Next, the "in kiln" reduction at ^012 will not be giving you an ebony
black like the black of raku post firing. Terra sig does give a good
black in post firing reduction in raku.
An "in kiln" reduction at ^012 would probably be white. IMHO
Some people used oil to reduce as a post firing method. That is they
dunked their pieces into a bucket of old oil after it cooled a little
from the raku kiln. I found that to be really messy and not that
impressive. It did a good reduction on crackle whites but isn't
necessary. I think the mess was not worth it.
Just my thoughts.
Marcia Selsor.
>> Hi All,
>>
>> Has anyone out there ever heard of, built and/or fired an oil drip
>> kiln?
>> I've searched the archives and the web for plans..... to no avail.
>>
>> I'm currently working on some high relief wall pieces which are
>> handbuilt
>> using paperclay. They are terra sig'd, bisqued and then raku fired
>> to con=
>> e
>> 012 before being moved to reduction buckets for smoking. Due to
>> the uneve=
>> n
>> thickness of the pieces, I have a 50/50 chance of them coming
>> through the
>> process intact. Not good enough as they are very time consuming to
>> make.
>>
>> I'm looking for a less aggressive way to achieve the unglazed,
>> ebony like
>> surfaces. Reducing them in the kiln rather than thermal shocking them
>> during the trip to the reduction bucket may just be the kicker.
>>
>> Any ideas?
>>
>> rose bauer
>> in the shadow of the Canadian Rockies
>>
>> pic of wall box that survived the move ...
>>
>> http://www.flickr.com/photos/clayart
>>
>
>
Russel Fouts on thu 8 sep 05
Marcia,
>> An "in kiln" reduction at ^012 would probably be white. <<
White? How? What would thet look like?
--
Russel Fouts
Mes Potes & Mes Pots
Brussels, Belgium
Tel: +32 2 223 02 75
Mobile: +32 476 55 38 75
Http://www.mypots.com
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