Tony Ferguson on wed 19 oct 05
Ryan,
I would say you oxidized too much and the fly ash overpowered your ash glazes assuming had you had lots of movement in your kiln.
Throw everything you know about gas kilns out the door. Before gas was wood and the real understanding of oxidation and reduction can be observed through firing a wood kiln when you stoke. Find a rhythm in your stoking. Listen to your kiln. Its sound will tell you what it needs when you can't see smoke or flame. Use a pyrometer to help guide you (insurance) so you are gaining temperature. Do not wait too long between stokes. Avoid the black smoke, grey is better, but black is usually unavoidable do to inconsistent wood sizes--even with slab wood or edgings. Retain your patience and diligence.
Tony Ferguson
Tony Ferguson
...where the sky meets the lake...
Duluth, Minnesota
Artist, Educator, Web Meister
fergyart@yahoo.com
fergy@cpinternet.com
(218) 727-6339
http://www.aquariusartgallery.com
http://www.tonyferguson.net
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Ryan Forrey on wed 19 oct 05
I recently firind my catenary down draft wood kiln; I did a body reduction
at c/012 for 90 min. and a glaze reduction at c/10 bending for 50 min. The
length of the firing was 28 hrs. total. I was surpise to find when
opening my luster shino's and Penn State shino white to light pink and all
of my wood ash glazes(red,green and blue) all turned out yellow. Did I
over reduce at the end of the firing which caused all of the iron to turn
yellow? or is there something I'm missing? Any help would be great.
All the Best,
Ryan Forrey
Greenfield Village Pottery
Dearborn, Mi
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