earlk on thu 3 nov 05
A cheap air-to-air heat exchanger ???
Imagine, if you will, a length of 8" aluminum duct pipe
attached to the ceiling which runs clear across your studio.
The left end penetrates the wall and is exposed to the outside
air. Inside the 8" pipe is a 4" pipe mounted with wire so that
it is held centered in the larger pipe. This pipe also extends
out the left side of the building and has a 90 elbow and an
extension with a filter. On the right side of this set-up you
install a fan to force room air into the space between the small
pipe and the large pipe and leave the end of the small pipe open
to the room.
The warm dusty room air flows through the gap between the
pipes while cold clean outside air flows in the opposite direction
through the small pipe. As the warm air flows toward the outside
it gives up heat to the small pipe which in turn warms the cold
air flowing through it. You could increase efficiency of heat transfer
by riviting aluminum vanes to the inside and outside of the small
pipe to cause disturbances in the air flow and extending the length
by circling it around the studio.
Think it would work?
earlk
bothell, wa, usa
Sam or Mary Yancy on thu 3 nov 05
First thank you all for your answers to "is it art or production$$$. When I wrote that I was hoping to get a lot of varied opionins - and i did - all great - I hope that thread continues...
Now to clay studio ventilation. For a inexpensive system,picture this. On one side of your studio install a few intake air vents (with - or without cheap furnace filter covering them - this is your in-flow of clean air.
On the other side of the studio, a large fan - or squarel cage fan set to exhaust that exits into the outside (important) via a a pipe and downspout that forces the exhaust air into a water/sludge container.
Has any of you tried this?? I did years ago and found running the fan ocasionally would exhaust most all dust in the room. In my case it was bondo and paint dust (from body work and paint dust). It also worked for fumes.
What I would do was run the exhaust fan when taking a break or when sanding and spraying - or when cleaning up. Wear a mask when you need to. You would be surprised of how much "dust" or sludge that I removed from the exhaust ourlet/water trap each week. Several pound or gallons of sludge. in fact.
Mopping also helpd but my exaust fan worked in conjunction with my cleaning - run a "duster" over flat surfaces (wearing a mask) and watch the 'dust" move to the exhaust fan especially on a sunny day. Works like a down-draft clean room methinks but I sure am not a expert. At the time though - "rules" were not that strict and down draft systems were way out of my $$$ to be able to buy.
Has anybody tried this?? What do you think???
Regards,and thanks to all of you - very creative artists, crafts people, , smart and wonderful folks to know.
Sam in Daly City. Peace!!!
Edouard Bastarache Inc. on thu 3 nov 05
Hello all,
Jeff Zamek in his book "Safety in the Ceramics Studio" has excellent ideas
on these issues. I highly recommend it.
Later,
"Ils sont fous ces quebecois"
"They are insane these quebekers"
"Están locos estos quebequeses"
Edouard Bastarache
Irreductible Quebecois
Indomitable Quebeker
Sorel-Tracy
Quebec
edouardb@sorel-tracy.qc.ca
www.sorel-tracy.qc.ca/~edouardb/Welcome.html
http://www.flickr.com/photos/potier/
http://stainlessfre.blogspot.com/
http://perso.wanadoo.fr/smart2000/index.htm
http://www.digitalfire.com/education/toxicity/
jesse hull on fri 4 nov 05
Earl,
That is indeed the basic idea. However, during the
high points of winter/ summer (which is the only time
you'd be worried about simply exhausting the air), it
would take quite a distance of ducting to transfer the
heat/ cold effectively. "Coiling it around your
studio" as you suggested, may work.
Are you going to give it a try?
~jesse.
Ron Roy on sat 5 nov 05
Hi Earl,
You need to deal with condensation - all the systems I have seen have drainage.
In you proposed system - the longer the pipes the better - and a bit sloped
with a drain pipe at the lowest point.
Also have to watch out for mixing metals - you don't want different metals
creating charges that hasten corrosion.
The more surface the better it will work - I like the idea but the best
material would be stainless and that would be expensive - probably more so
than plastic ducting and an exchanger.
I am no expert in all this - but I do confess that I very much like the
idea of bringing in fresh air and getting polluted air out.
RR
>A cheap air-to-air heat exchanger ???
>
>Imagine, if you will, a length of 8" aluminum duct pipe
>attached to the ceiling which runs clear across your studio.
>The left end penetrates the wall and is exposed to the outside
>air. Inside the 8" pipe is a 4" pipe mounted with wire so that
>it is held centered in the larger pipe. This pipe also extends
>out the left side of the building and has a 90 elbow and an
>extension with a filter. On the right side of this set-up you
>install a fan to force room air into the space between the small
>pipe and the large pipe and leave the end of the small pipe open
>to the room.
>
>The warm dusty room air flows through the gap between the
>pipes while cold clean outside air flows in the opposite direction
>through the small pipe. As the warm air flows toward the outside
>it gives up heat to the small pipe which in turn warms the cold
>air flowing through it. You could increase efficiency of heat transfer
>by riviting aluminum vanes to the inside and outside of the small
>pipe to cause disturbances in the air flow and extending the length
>by circling it around the studio.
>
>Think it would work?
>
>earlk
>bothell, wa, usa
Ron Roy
RR#4
15084 Little Lake Road
Brighton, Ontario
Canada
K0K 1H0
Phone: 613-475-9544
Fax: 613-475-3513
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