Gail Dapogny on wed 16 nov 05
Hi all and (especially) Craig Martell,
Some time ago, almost surely on Clayart, i wrote down Craig Martell's
Fake Ash, then mixed it up with colorants that produced a blue ash
effect, tried it out, and loved it. Now I can't find it. Craig, is
this a glaze recipe that you are still willing to share? It is a
beauty. I'm going crazy not being able to find it. Help...
Thanks, if it is still available; understood if it is not.
Gail
Gail Dapogny
Ann Arbor, Michigan
gdapogny@umich.edu
http://www.claygallery.org/
http://www.pottersguild.net/
John Anthony on thu 17 nov 05
Hi Gail- I found this in the archives from 97. Not sure if it's the
one you are looking for:
Craig Martell wrote:
Here's one that I formulated and have used for a number of years. It is
best applied by spraying but can be dipped, poured, etc. You have to
work
with the thickness to got the desired result. A light application will
"orange peel" like a salt glaze while heavier applications will run. Too
much thickness and you will get blistering. This glaze works well
with most
oxides. It also works best on porcelain or with white slips but don't be
afraid to try anything...you never know. You can get this glaze to
work at
cone 8 and 9 by substituting Ball Clay for Kaolin. You might want to
do a
sub at cone 10 as well to observe the difference.
Fake ash glaze Cone 10 Ox. or Red.
Dolomite 8.0% by weight
Whiting 34.0
Potash Feldspar 5.0
Kaolin 33.0
Silica 20.0
Regards, Craig Martell-Oregon
claybair on thu 17 nov 05
Can this glaze be formulated for ^5 or 6 and still get the same result?
Gayle Bair
Bainbridge Island, WA
Tucson, AZ
http://claybair.com
-----Original Message-----
From: John Anthony
Hi Gail- I found this in the archives from 97. Not sure if it's the
one you are looking for:
Craig Martell wrote:
Here's one that I formulated and have used for a number of years. It is
best applied by spraying but can be dipped, poured, etc. You have to
work
with the thickness to got the desired result. A light application will
"orange peel" like a salt glaze while heavier applications will run. Too
much thickness and you will get blistering. This glaze works well
with most
oxides. It also works best on porcelain or with white slips but don't be
afraid to try anything...you never know. You can get this glaze to
work at
cone 8 and 9 by substituting Ball Clay for Kaolin. You might want to
do a
sub at cone 10 as well to observe the difference.
Fake ash glaze Cone 10 Ox. or Red.
Dolomite 8.0% by weight
Whiting 34.0
Potash Feldspar 5.0
Kaolin 33.0
Silica 20.0
Regards, Craig Martell-Oregon
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Craig Martell on thu 17 nov 05
Hello Gail:
John Anthony sent the correct recipe. Thank you John.
I received your request via Clayart last night and I was going to dig out
the recipe when I went to the studio this morning but John beat me to the
punch. One thing that I didn't note in my original post ('97) about the
glaze is that it's very low in silica and is best used on surfaces that
will not contact food.
regards, Craig Martell Hopewell, Oregon
Craig Martell on thu 17 nov 05
Gayle was asking:
>Can this glaze be formulated for ^5 or 6 and still get the same result?
Hello Gayle:
The chance of lowering the temp of this glaze to the cone 5/6 range hovers
somewhere near zero. Sorry but it's basically formulated as a gringo
version of the very old Chinese clay/limestone glazes and the materials
used and the percentages of lime and clay in the glaze require a lot of
heatwork.
I did a reformulation for ^5/6 using different boron frits and natural
boron compounds and did not think the results were anywhere near the
original glaze. If you were going to fire at cone 8 the possibility is
much better and it would probably work.
This glaze does work well in an electric kiln at cone 9/10.
that's all folks, Craig Martell Hopewell, Oregon
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