Eva Gallagher on fri 25 nov 05
Hi Randy - here is the recipe that we got from Canadian potter Bob Boazk
back in 1969 when he gave us a workshop to introduce our guild to stoneware.
It is a really great glaze for the red/rust/oranges that you can get with
Fe. It needs slow cooling for best colours I think.
Bozak Stony White Cone 8 (but 7 may do as well)
Neph Sye 48
Dolomite 27
Flint 17
ball clay 6
Zinc Ox _2_
Total 100
Add Tin oxide 3
Bentonite 2
Red FeO .5 (optional - to take away from the stark whiteness)
For beige 2% red FeO
Rust 6% red FeO and 6% rutile
Both above will do in a high cone 6 or low 7. Just a thin coating will give
you a nutmeg like colour - however you get the nice rust/orange that you do
not get with Nutmeg when thick over the brown underglaze.
Also get good blues and greens .
Great with this brown underglaze also from Bob Bozak - 1 part red FeO, 1
part pot spar, 1 part ballclay. Use a good coating of the underglaze and
then dip in the white or beige to get nice rusts/orange/red. The thickness
of each are important.
I have used 3 of Zinc to increase melting but more zinc leads to loss of
good rust colour.
Also have used this for a more rustic white:
To 2240 Stony White add 600 gms of Leach Ash (from Leach's book - not sure
of where the recipe is at the moment). It however tends to reduce the
red/orange in the browns but has the advantage of keeping this glaze
beautifully suspended.
Let me know how it turns out!
----- Original Message -----
From: "Randy McCall"
To:
Sent: Thursday, November 24, 2005 9:16 PM
Subject: Re: Nutmeg glaze
> Eva,,,,,,,,,,would you mind sharing with Clayart the Stoney Beige recipe.
> If that is better than nutmeg I would really like to try it.
>
> Randy
>
> Pottery Web Site
> members.tripod.com/~McCallJ/index.html
> South Carolina
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Eva Gallagher"
> To:
> Sent: Wednesday, November 23, 2005 6:30 PM
> Subject: Re: Nutmeg glaze
>
>
>> Hello Bill - the Nutmeg glaze is used extensively by our guild members -
>> plain Nutmeg not the mix of the two - white and nutmeg. I find it works
>> best
>> on a white or cream clay, with an iron underglaze wash (applied and then
>> washed off so get dark in the depressions and cracks. After glazing I
>> spray
>> rutile/colemanite and red Fe/rutile/colmanite to highlight and flash
>> certain
>> areas. Nice wonderful yellow-orangey colours.
>> On brown clay the nutmeg is not quite as good as another glaze that we
>> use
>> called Stoney Beige which is a cone 8 glaze but seems good at a high 6 or
>> 7.
>> Get nice rusts with iron underglaze. These rusts do not seem to develop
>> with
>> the Nutmeg. The stoney biege has tin in it which I think helps the rusts.
>> On
>> white clay the Beige is not very good.
>> I must try the mix of white and nutmeg as described in the article.
>> Regards,
>> Eva Gallagher
>> Deep River Potters' Guild
>>
>> ----- Original Message -----
>> From: "William & Susan Schran User"
>> To:
>> Sent: Wednesday, November 23, 2005 10:03 AM
>> Subject: Nutmeg glaze
>>
>>
>> > In the Nov/Dec issue of Pottery Making Illustrated, Richard Busch wrote
>> > an
>> > article: "The Look of Wood Fire".
>> >
>> > In the article he writes about combining two glazes to achieve a warm
>> > orange/brown wood fire look at ^6 oxidation.
>> >
>> > Richard contacted me sometime ago about my experiments doing a line
>> > blend
>> > of
>> > the two glazes and the final glaze we settled on as a studio glaze
>> > where
>> > I
>> > teach.
>> >
>> > The glaze we used is included in the article with a short note about
>> > it.
>> > There is also a note from Ron Roy with concerns about the coefficient
>> > of
>> > expansion, including substitute materials.
>> >
>> > Thank you Ron for your input. I will make the substitutions and report
>> > back
>> > my results.
>> >
>> > We used the glaze as listed on several clay bodies and have not had any
>> > problems with crazing or shivering. The glaze seems to work well at ^5
>> > and
>> > I
>> > have also fired it in reduction at a flat ^6, ^7 bending, results
>> > similar
>> > to
>> > oxidation.
>> >
>> > We are currently firing to ^10 reduction at school, but I continue to
>> > fire
>> > ^6 reduction at home and would appreciate all input from anyone using
>> > this
>> > glaze.
>> >
>> > -- William "Bill" Schran
>> > Fredericksburg, Virginia
>> > wschran@cox.net
>> > wschran@nvcc.edu
>> >
>> > ______________________________________________________________________________
>> > Send postings to clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
>> >
>> > You may look at the archives for the list or change your subscription
>> > settings from http://www.ceramics.org/clayart/
>> >
>> > Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be reached at
>> > melpots@pclink.com.
>>
>> ______________________________________________________________________________
>> Send postings to clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
>>
>> You may look at the archives for the list or change your subscription
>> settings from http://www.ceramics.org/clayart/
>>
>> Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be reached at
>> melpots@pclink.com.
>>
>
> ______________________________________________________________________________
> Send postings to clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
>
> You may look at the archives for the list or change your subscription
> settings from http://www.ceramics.org/clayart/
>
> Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be reached at
> melpots@pclink.com.
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