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oil paint on clay looks dull - please help!

updated thu 1 dec 05

 

John Jensen on mon 28 nov 05


I'd imagine the bisque soaked the oil out of the pigments and left the
surface dry. Probably you should have primed the pot first, but since you
didn't you might try using Picture Varnish, or Damar Varnish. You could
also try painting the surface with a good grade of linseed oil. This might
take a week or more to dry. Whereas the Damar or picture varnish would dry
quickly. Talk to your artstore professional, if there is one around.

John Jensen, Mudbug Pottery
John Jensen@mudbugpottery.com
http://www.toadhouse.com www://www.mudbugpottery.com

Kathy Forer on mon 28 nov 05


On Nov 28, 2005, at 5:23 PM, Bonnie Muir wrote:

> I should have tested it first... as this is a piece for my thesis
> exhibit.
> Is there any kind of finish/wax/etc. that I can use to add a sheen
> and bring back the colors?
> Any and all suggestions will be greatly appreciated.

You can either access the work as being overdone, past its prime, or
underdone, still needing to develop. Either, it's a stage in the
process of the work.

"When is something finished?" You can keep applying and removing,
moderating materials and media until you either can't go anymore or
you need to stop. It's hard to tell what's happening when, that's
often the process. The fun part.

Kathy in NJ

marianne kuiper milks on mon 28 nov 05


Hi Bonnie,

This past summer we used various media on biscuit and fire-biscuit' pieces. The class was taken with Bennett Bean, who paints and adds on all sorts of things.
I believe that the email he gave us was simply bennett@bean
He gave us names of products and where to get them. That list, of course, is in my pocket...drawer?...book?.. Oh well.
We used a kind of gel, I believe, and it indeed perked up the colors beautifully.
If that all helps, great. if you can't get him, write back and i will look through my summer stuff. i'm a bit lazy today :)
Marianne


Judy Rohrbaugh wrote:Bonnie, I don't know much about oil paint, but assuming that you can paint over it with acrylic, I would say try that. Acrylic does not soak in.

Judy Rohrbaugh
Fine Art Stoneware
Ohio



Bonnie Muir wrote:
I painted a large bisqued sculpture with oil paint and it looks completely lifeless.
The color soaked in and looks quite dull.
I should have tested it first... as this is a piece for my thesis exhibit.
Is there any kind of finish/wax/etc. that I can use to add a sheen and bring back the colors?
Any and all suggestions will be greatly appreciated.

Bonnie in Boston

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Bonnie Muir on mon 28 nov 05


I painted a large bisqued sculpture with oil paint and it looks completely lifeless.
The color soaked in and looks quite dull.
I should have tested it first... as this is a piece for my thesis exhibit.
Is there any kind of finish/wax/etc. that I can use to add a sheen and bring back the colors?
Any and all suggestions will be greatly appreciated.

Bonnie in Boston

steve graber on mon 28 nov 05


can you re-bisque?

my wife made some christmas ornaments years back & she messed up some. i told her she could re-bisque & erase the paint to start over.

HOWEVER the paint (acrylic, re-bisque to 06) took on a very nice soft color! really nice discovery! slightly softer colors, slightly more matt from gloss. maybe you'll get a stunning affect by a re-fire?

otherwise i don't know....

see ya

steve


Bonnie Muir wrote:
I painted a large bisqued sculpture with oil paint and it looks completely lifeless.
The color soaked in and looks quite dull.
I should have tested it first... as this is a piece for my thesis exhibit.
Is there any kind of finish/wax/etc. that I can use to add a sheen and bring back the colors?
Any and all suggestions will be greatly appreciated.

Bonnie in Boston

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Eric Suchman on mon 28 nov 05


Bonnie,
Oil paint on clay can look quite lively.... it depends on the medium
you use.... just turpentine and paint will indeed look quite flat...
use a maroger's medium available from "studio products" or a wax
medium for a deep rich glow. I might not hurt to seal your clay
surface first though. You could use shellac or gesso or just hide
glue with out whiting to seal it. You might also consider firing your
clay up to temperature as well to make the body denser. Keep
experimenting. Feel free to email me of list,
Eric in Oceanside






On Nov 28, 2005, at 2:23 PM, Bonnie Muir wrote:

> I painted a large bisqued sculpture with oil paint and it looks
> completely lifeless.
> The color soaked in and looks quite dull.
> I should have tested it first... as this is a piece for my thesis
> exhibit.
> Is there any kind of finish/wax/etc. that I can use to add a sheen
> and bring back the colors?
> Any and all suggestions will be greatly appreciated.
>
> Bonnie in Boston
>
> ______________________________________________________________________
> ________
> Send postings to clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
>
> You may look at the archives for the list or change your subscription
> settings from http://www.ceramics.org/clayart/
>
> Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be reached at
> melpots@pclink.com.

Judy Rohrbaugh on mon 28 nov 05


Bonnie, I don't know much about oil paint, but assuming that you can paint over it with acrylic, I would say try that. Acrylic does not soak in.

Judy Rohrbaugh
Fine Art Stoneware
Ohio



Bonnie Muir wrote:
I painted a large bisqued sculpture with oil paint and it looks completely lifeless.
The color soaked in and looks quite dull.
I should have tested it first... as this is a piece for my thesis exhibit.
Is there any kind of finish/wax/etc. that I can use to add a sheen and bring back the colors?
Any and all suggestions will be greatly appreciated.

Bonnie in Boston

______________________________________________________________________________
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settings from http://www.ceramics.org/clayart/

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dannon rhudy on tue 29 nov 05


I would gesso the pieces before painting.

You might also look at some of the work
of Harvey Sadow, who used paints in addition
to glazes on some of his work. Don't know if
he is doing that now, but in earlier work he did
and there was NOTHING dull about that work.

regards

Dannon Rhudy

---
---

Geoffrey Gaskell on tue 29 nov 05


Judy Rohrbaugh suggests:

> Bonnie, I don't know much about oil paint, but assuming that you can paint
over it with acrylic, I would say try that. Acrylic does not soak in.

The short answer is no to the first sentence & yes to the second.

To elaborate: the rule of thumb for painting (commonplace knowledge for
painters, but obscure to those who don't paint) Oils will go over acrylics,
but acrylics will not go over oils. The technical reason: as most people
probably know acrylics are very fast drying, one of their great appeals for
some artists. Oil paints are only surface dry after several days or weeks
(depending on atmospheric conditions). It will take months for it to be
thoroughly dry & stop contracting as it does so. Also oil & water don't mix
(unless you've created one of those special water mixable oil paints that
Winsor & Newton have produced recently). This being so, it should be found
to be extremely difficult to get the acrylic paint to adhere to the surface
of the oil paint in any case. Even if one succeeds in getting the acrylics
to adhere to the oil paint surface, it is destined to be twisted & distorted
as the oil paint underneath contracts as it continues its much slower drying
process. Think of the earth's crust being carried about on the seething
caldron of liquid rock & you'll get a similar idea of what's happening
beneath the surface.

Rules can be broken, & I've seen it done. Gesso primer which is water based
will apparently go over the top of thoroughly dry oil paint. However, give
it 5 or 10 years & it will peel off taking whatever is painted on top
(whether acrylic or oil egg tempera or whatever with it). An oil primer is a
definite requirement, if one wants to go over an old oil painting with
something completely different (perhaps a portrait of a man with three
buttocks or perhaps something else altogether).

An artist (or at the very least someone who happens to paint) of my
acquaintance regularly paints acrylics over the top of oils in selected
areas of his mixed media work. He frequently finds it necessary to add PVA
glue to the acrylic mixture, but in this case he is deliberately making use
of the almost geological processes described above.

Geoffrey Gaskell
http://www.geoffreygaskell.co.nz/





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pdp1@EARTHLINK.NET on tue 29 nov 05


Hi Bonnie,



Just a few fast thoughts...


How did you seal the piece before painting it?

What kind of primer or ground did you use over the sealer?

By Oil Paint, what do you mean - Artist's Tube Oils? Or...? Other, such as
Canned Oil Base Enamels of some kind...?

If you merely painted the fired Ckay directly, it would likely lack the kind
of color quality or depth you might have wanted, even if the Paint itself
were capable of it...even if you build up
successive coats...it will not be the same as if there were a good, and
possibly sanded smoothe, and white, ground of some kind.

Porcelain, probably, when transluscent, could be Painted carefully with
Oils, directly, for some effect, but...otherwise...I'd think...

Just as for formal Paintings...would be the way to go...



Phil
el ve



----- Original Message -----
From: "Bonnie Muir"


> I painted a large bisqued sculpture with oil paint and it looks completely
lifeless.
> The color soaked in and looks quite dull.
> I should have tested it first... as this is a piece for my thesis exhibit.
> Is there any kind of finish/wax/etc. that I can use to add a sheen and
bring back the colors?
> Any and all suggestions will be greatly appreciated.
>
> Bonnie in Boston

Bill Karaffa on tue 29 nov 05


Bonnie,

Treat the piece like a painting. Use some varnish.

Bill Karaffa
Firemouth Pottery and Gallery
http://fp1.centurytel.net/karaffa






I painted a large bisqued sculpture with oil paint and it looks completely
lifeless.
The color soaked in and looks quite dull.

____________________________________________________________________________
__
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Craig Clark on tue 29 nov 05


When I was in school one of the painters, who decided that she could
not throw, did a series of demonic looking rabbits in clay from coils.
They were exquiste. She did not like the available glazes and decided to
go ahead and do what she new best, which was oil painting. The prof did
not have any real advice to give in that he had never tried what she was
about to do but suggested that she begin the process by attempting a
small type of painting on a tile rather than potentially ruining one of
her pieces. She did a quick series of small tiles all of which were
bisqued. Then half of them were high fired.
She was a gifted painter and her control of the medium was flawless.
I believe that she applied jesso to both the bisqued and the high fired
pieces. Then went ahead and applied the oil paint after that. The only
trouble that was encountered was the length of time that it took for the
paint to dry, which was substantial, and I do not remember how long.
I also don't remember whether it was the bisque or the high fired
clay that worked best for the application. She may have experimented
with a few tiles without the jesso as well. Just make several small
tiles, keep detailed notes, and try some variations. With any luck your
results will be as nice as hers.
Hope this helps
Craig Dunn Clark
619 East 11 1/2 st
Houston, Texas 77008
(713)861-2083
mudman@hal-pc.org

Snail Scott on tue 29 nov 05


At 02:23 PM 11/28/2005 -0800, you wrote:
>I painted a large bisqued sculpture with oil paint and it looks completely
lifeless.
>The color soaked in and looks quite dull.
>I should have tested it first... as this is a piece for my thesis exhibit.
>Is there any kind of finish/wax/etc. that I can use to add a sheen and
bring back the colors?


The 'flat' effect is one of the reasons some people
choose oil paint, rather than acrylic which soaks
in less. Too bad it wasn't what you were after!

You can shine up the surface of the work with wax,
acrylic spray, lacquer, or varnish, but they won't
look quite like smooth paint would if it hadn't
soaked in. For porous clay, as for canvas, to make
it look like that it does need priming. The same
gesso you use for canvas works on clay, too. Or,
you can use more a vitrified clay which won't
absorb the paint. I know this doesn't help with the
current project, but you will make more, right?

I hope adding a coating will give you an acceptable
finish for now, though. I like wax as a coating, but
the one I use the most is Golden's UVLS acrylic
varnishes, which come in matte and gloss finishes,
and can be mixed for intermediate levels of sheen.

-Snail

Kathy McDonald on tue 29 nov 05


Mayco make an excellent spray varnish that brings dull paint to life on
ceramics.

Kathy

-----Original Message-----
From: Clayart [mailto:CLAYART@LSV.CERAMICS.ORG]On Behalf Of Bill Karaffa
Sent: Tuesday, November 29, 2005 7:17 AM
To: CLAYART@LSV.CERAMICS.ORG
Subject: Re: Oil paint on clay looks dull - please help!


Bonnie,

Treat the piece like a painting. Use some varnish.

Bill Karaffa
Firemouth Pottery and Gallery
http://fp1.centurytel.net/karaffa






I painted a large bisqued sculpture with oil paint and it looks completely
lifeless.
The color soaked in and looks quite dull.

____________________________________________________________________________
__
Send postings to clayart@lsv.ceramics.org

You may look at the archives for the list or change your subscription
settings from http://www.ceramics.org/clayart/

Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be reached at
melpots@pclink.com.

____________________________________________________________________________
__
Send postings to clayart@lsv.ceramics.org

You may look at the archives for the list or change your subscription
settings from http://www.ceramics.org/clayart/

Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be reached at
melpots@pclink.com.

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Louis Katz on tue 29 nov 05


unfortunately the solution comes before the problem.

I am going to assume you are talking about porous fired clay.

Gesso the clay first. That way it won't suck the oil out of the oil
paint. I would not expect the pigment to stay on the pot as long as it
should unless you gesso first.

Learn to glaze. I mean with oils. A glaze is a mix of oil with a
little pigment, maybe some varnish? not sure, I am not a painter.

I would probably water some varnish down pretty far with thinner so it
will soak in well, and then maybe try a richer coat.

N. Rick Pope did some way cool painting of clay with encaustic. Great
surfaces.

Louis

http://LouisKatz.net

brian on tue 29 nov 05


On 28/11/05 Bonnie wrote ....
>I painted a large bisqued sculpture with oil paint and it looks
>completely lifeless.
>The color soaked in and looks quite dull.

There are probably not all that many people painting on bisque in the
pottery community. That doesn't mean that it's not possible.
I always use an expoxy resin with boat builders pigment on the few
occasions when I do mix media

In your case the first application of oil paint might have sealed the
clay so all it would need is to paint the whole thing again covering
all previous parts.

Next time seal the surface first with an acrylic medium or similar or
ask earlier about some suitable paintable glaze colours that would
fire on.

good luck with your efforts
let's know how it works out

Brian
--

Brian Gartside
http://www.gartside.info
Pukekohe, New Zealand