Ron Roy on mon 5 dec 05
Hi Randy,
What cone did you fire to?
If cone 6 - then you would need a frit, boron or zinc to make it melt.
RR
>I tried this glaze and got a matt green with craters. Does anyone know what
>could have happened? Not fired high enough? Is there anything I could do
>to bring this glaze down say to a Cone 5. I used Nephelyne instead of
>Custer.
>
>
>Bone Ash 11.4
>Talc 12.5
>Whiting 10.2
>Custer 52.3
>Silica 13.6
>
>Iron 13.6
>
>
>Randy
>
>Pottery Web Site
>members.tripod.com/~McCallJ/index.html
>South Carolina
>
>______________________________________________________________________________
>Send postings to clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
>
>You may look at the archives for the list or change your subscription
>settings from http://www.ceramics.org/clayart/
>
>Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be reached at melpots@pclink.com.
Ron Roy
RR#4
15084 Little Lake Road
Brighton, Ontario
Canada
K0K 1H0
Phone: 613-475-9544
Fax: 613-475-3513
Randy McCall on mon 5 dec 05
To Lili
I tried this glaze and got a matt green with craters. Does anyone know what
could have happened? Not fired high enough? Is there anything I could do
to bring this glaze down say to a Cone 5. I used Nephelyne instead of
Custer.
Bone Ash 11.4
Talc 12.5
Whiting 10.2
Custer 52.3
Silica 13.6
Iron 13.6
Randy
Pottery Web Site
members.tripod.com/~McCallJ/index.html
South Carolina
Randy McCall on tue 6 dec 05
I went to a Cone 6. Lili K said it was a Cone 8 but would work at Cone 6.
How much frit do you think it would take.
Randy
Pottery Web Site
members.tripod.com/~McCallJ/index.html
South Carolina
----- Original Message -----
From: "Ron Roy"
To:
Sent: Monday, December 05, 2005 11:36 PM
Subject: Re: Tony Yeh's Black?
> Hi Randy,
>
> What cone did you fire to?
>
> If cone 6 - then you would need a frit, boron or zinc to make it melt.
>
> RR
>
>
> >I tried this glaze and got a matt green with craters. Does anyone know
> >what
> >could have happened? Not fired high enough? Is there anything I could
> >do
> >to bring this glaze down say to a Cone 5. I used Nephelyne instead of
> >Custer.
> >
> >
> >Bone Ash 11.4
> >Talc 12.5
> >Whiting 10.2
> >Custer 52.3
> >Silica 13.6
> >
> >Iron 13.6
> >
> >
> >Randy
> >
> >Pottery Web Site
> >members.tripod.com/~McCallJ/index.html
> >South Carolina
> >
> >______________________________________________________________________________
> >Send postings to clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
> >
> >You may look at the archives for the list or change your subscription
> >settings from http://www.ceramics.org/clayart/
> >
> >Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be reached at
> >melpots@pclink.com.
>
> Ron Roy
> RR#4
> 15084 Little Lake Road
> Brighton, Ontario
> Canada
> K0K 1H0
> Phone: 613-475-9544
> Fax: 613-475-3513
>
> ______________________________________________________________________________
> Send postings to clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
>
> You may look at the archives for the list or change your subscription
> settings from http://www.ceramics.org/clayart/
>
> Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be reached at
> melpots@pclink.com.
>
Steve Slatin on tue 6 dec 05
Randy --
I use this glaze fairly regularly. I fire to a moderately 'hard' cone 6 (the #7
cone is just showing the slightest sign of deforming, and the #6 is either
touching or within 2 mm of touching the shelf) Ox, and this glaze repeatedly
comes out as a dark brown with millions of tiny orange specks. (By itself it
doesn't sell well, but if you dip a corner of a set of bowls in a contrasting
color glaze as an overglaze it gets attention.)
Very thin it's an unattractive brown with no variation. I've never gotten a
green or cratered effect. FWIW, Hamer and Hamer say that cratering
is easiest to get between 1000 C and 1200 C because the gasses are
liberated in that range and if they can't heal over before setting you will
crater. The high end of that range is just under a 'true' cone 6. (The gospel
according to Orton is ^6 is 1201 to 1222, depening on how fast you're
going.) Is it at all possible that you're firing just under cone 6?
If you're sure your temps are OK, then review the recipe. You said you
subbed Nepheline Syenite for Custer. This isn't the very best
substitution to make. I've found it works sometimes, and sometimes
not. (G-200 more often will sub directly, if you have that available.)
The problem with using Nepheline Syenite as a sub is that it's got gobs
more alumina -- about 1/4 vs. 1/6 of the total, as is the case with
Custer. If you have a recipe where Custer is 10 or 15% of the total,
the difference is slight, maybe even insignificant. Doing the sub is
probably OK. Where Custer is 1/2 of the glaze, the difference is
significant. (There are other differences as well, N.S. has less silica
and more sodium, etc., but that one sort of jumps out at you.) The sub
lowers your Si/Al ratio from the tens to the sixes -- and with that ratio,
as Ron suggests, you'll probably need more melters to get a true glaze
effect.
But if you start adding boron or zinc into the glaze, it won't be the
same glorious glaze that Tony and Lili gave us. (It may be as good or
better a glaze, it just won't be the same glaze.)
BTW, 2% bentonite doesn't really keep it suspended with my water,
so I keep stirring it as I use it -- glaze maybe 2-3 pots and then stir
again before I glaze more. Otherwise I get a nasty thin effect. And
I haven't been able to get good results with brush application (though
I stink at brush application anyway).
Best wishes -- Steve S
Randy McCall wrote:
I went to a Cone 6. Lili K said it was a Cone 8 but would work at Cone 6.
How much frit do you think it would take.
Randy
Pottery Web Site
members.tripod.com/~McCallJ/index.html
South Carolina
----- Original Message -----
From: "Ron Roy"
To:
Sent: Monday, December 05, 2005 11:36 PM
Subject: Re: Tony Yeh's Black?
> Hi Randy,
>
> What cone did you fire to?
>
> If cone 6 - then you would need a frit, boron or zinc to make it melt.
>
> RR
>
>
> >I tried this glaze and got a matt green with craters. Does anyone know
> >what
> >could have happened? Not fired high enough? Is there anything I could
> >do
> >to bring this glaze down say to a Cone 5. I used Nephelyne instead of
> >Custer.
> >
> >
> >Bone Ash 11.4
> >Talc 12.5
> >Whiting 10.2
> >Custer 52.3
> >Silica 13.6
> >
> >Iron 13.6
> >
Steve Slatin --
And I've seen it all, I've seen it all
Through the yellow windows of the evening train...
---------------------------------
Yahoo! Personals
Single? There's someone we'd like you to meet.
Lots of someones, actually. Yahoo! Personals
Randy McCall on tue 6 dec 05
Steve thanks for the information. I have Custer and will mix it according
to the recipe and try it again. Didn't realize it would make such a
difference using the Neph.
Thought it would lower the melting point some.
Randy
Pottery Web Site
members.tripod.com/~McCallJ/index.html
South Carolina
----- Original Message -----
From: "Steve Slatin"
To:
Sent: Tuesday, December 06, 2005 3:38 PM
Subject: Re: Tony Yeh's Black?
> Randy --
>
> I use this glaze fairly regularly. I fire to a moderately 'hard' cone 6
> (the #7
> cone is just showing the slightest sign of deforming, and the #6 is
> either
> touching or within 2 mm of touching the shelf) Ox, and this glaze
> repeatedly
> comes out as a dark brown with millions of tiny orange specks. (By
> itself it
> doesn't sell well, but if you dip a corner of a set of bowls in a
> contrasting
> color glaze as an overglaze it gets attention.)
>
> Very thin it's an unattractive brown with no variation. I've never
> gotten a
> green or cratered effect. FWIW, Hamer and Hamer say that cratering
> is easiest to get between 1000 C and 1200 C because the gasses are
> liberated in that range and if they can't heal over before setting you
> will
> crater. The high end of that range is just under a 'true' cone 6. (The
> gospel
> according to Orton is ^6 is 1201 to 1222, depening on how fast you're
> going.) Is it at all possible that you're firing just under cone 6?
>
> If you're sure your temps are OK, then review the recipe. You said you
> subbed Nepheline Syenite for Custer. This isn't the very best
> substitution to make. I've found it works sometimes, and sometimes
> not. (G-200 more often will sub directly, if you have that available.)
>
> The problem with using Nepheline Syenite as a sub is that it's got gobs
> more alumina -- about 1/4 vs. 1/6 of the total, as is the case with
> Custer. If you have a recipe where Custer is 10 or 15% of the total,
> the difference is slight, maybe even insignificant. Doing the sub is
> probably OK. Where Custer is 1/2 of the glaze, the difference is
> significant. (There are other differences as well, N.S. has less silica
> and more sodium, etc., but that one sort of jumps out at you.) The sub
> lowers your Si/Al ratio from the tens to the sixes -- and with that
> ratio,
> as Ron suggests, you'll probably need more melters to get a true glaze
> effect.
>
> But if you start adding boron or zinc into the glaze, it won't be the
> same glorious glaze that Tony and Lili gave us. (It may be as good or
> better a glaze, it just won't be the same glaze.)
>
> BTW, 2% bentonite doesn't really keep it suspended with my water,
> so I keep stirring it as I use it -- glaze maybe 2-3 pots and then stir
> again before I glaze more. Otherwise I get a nasty thin effect. And
> I haven't been able to get good results with brush application (though
> I stink at brush application anyway).
>
> Best wishes -- Steve S
>
> Randy McCall wrote:
> I went to a Cone 6. Lili K said it was a Cone 8 but would work at Cone
> 6.
> How much frit do you think it would take.
> Randy
>
> Pottery Web Site
> members.tripod.com/~McCallJ/index.html
> South Carolina
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Ron Roy"
> To:
> Sent: Monday, December 05, 2005 11:36 PM
> Subject: Re: Tony Yeh's Black?
>
>
> > Hi Randy,
> >
> > What cone did you fire to?
> >
> > If cone 6 - then you would need a frit, boron or zinc to make it melt.
> >
> > RR
> >
> >
> > >I tried this glaze and got a matt green with craters. Does anyone know
> > >what
> > >could have happened? Not fired high enough? Is there anything I could
> > >do
> > >to bring this glaze down say to a Cone 5. I used Nephelyne instead of
> > >Custer.
> > >
> > >
> > >Bone Ash 11.4
> > >Talc 12.5
> > >Whiting 10.2
> > >Custer 52.3
> > >Silica 13.6
> > >
> > >Iron 13.6
> > >
>
>
> Steve Slatin --
>
> And I've seen it all, I've seen it all
> Through the yellow windows of the evening train...
>
> ---------------------------------
> Yahoo! Personals
> Single? There's someone we'd like you to meet.
> Lots of someones, actually. Yahoo! Personals
>
> ______________________________________________________________________________
> Send postings to clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
>
> You may look at the archives for the list or change your subscription
> settings from http://www.ceramics.org/clayart/
>
> Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be reached at
> melpots@pclink.com.
>
Ron Roy on fri 9 dec 05
Hi Randy - between 10 and 20% somewhere - do #1 with 10% 3134 and #5 with 20%.
#3 will be equal parts of 1 and 5
#2 will be equal parts of 1and3
#4 is 3+5
#1
Bone ash - 11.0
Talc - 12.0
Whiting - 8.0
Custer - 34.0
F3134 - 10.0
EPK - 8.0
Silica - 17.0
Total - 100.0
Red Iron - 13.6
You may want to add 1 or 2 % bentonite if it won't stay suspended well enough.
#5
Bone ash - 10.0
Talc - 12.0
Whiting - 4.0
Custer - 27.0
F3134 - 20.0
EPK - 11.0
Silica - 16.0
Total - 100.0
Red Iron - 13.6
Let me know what happens and include the recipes as I don't keep em at this end.
RR
>I went to a Cone 6. Lili K said it was a Cone 8 but would work at Cone 6.
>How much frit do you think it would take.
>Randy
Ron Roy
RR#4
15084 Little Lake Road
Brighton, Ontario
Canada
K0K 1H0
Phone: 613-475-9544
Fax: 613-475-3513
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