marianne kuiper milks on tue 6 dec 05
I have glazed greenware tiles, (which works, I've tried it), regular green ware and some low-fire biscuit/glazed objects. Basically all, at this point, should work fine at ^05. (The pre-bicsuit pieces were fired at about 07/06, depending where they were in the kiln.
This is a gaskiln and too big for either one of these separately. Because of Christmas, I must fire all these. Don't want to waste 3 loads to fire gas, and my testkiln is not here yet.
My question: how BIG a chance do I have for something to get really screwed up, which part may that be, even though they are separated by shelves. And...would it help to put glazed ware higher than biscuit ware, or the other way around???
I have a torchbearer Olympic, 13 cft downdraft.
I'd really, really appreciate some advice on this, because I'm getting in trouble here! (package has to be shipped to Great Britain!). My other email must have gone by the wayside.
Thanks, Marianne
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Elizabeth Priddy on tue 6 dec 05
Hi
Tiles rarely burst and when they do, the don't go far. The bisque
work is the least likey to burst and so should be on top. The green
with glaze should go on the bottom because the chunk that might fly
will stick to whatever it hits. The green tiles should go in the middle.
You might make a dam barrier on that shelf and if any chunks fly, they
will just hit the kiln post and sit there. Imagine a shelf with its riser
posts in four or three points as usual, but posts lying on their side length
around the perimeter of the shelf. An extended pre-heat will give you
enough insurance that you don't need this, but then again, if you have
enough posts, why not.
Since the posts won't completely block the air on the shelf, you should still
flow fine.
When I have fired for school classes, I put bisqued work on top and green on
bottom. My student, who took over the clay program when I retired, didn't
ask and to my shame, I never mentioned this. She loaded it the opposite
way and found a burst sculpture spread from the top all the way to the floor
with chunks sticking to glazed pieces all the way down.
So, don't do that. The reason she did it was because the sculpture was
quite large (more ammo!) and she didn't have long posts. I have some
one foot posts for just this occassion. She does too, now.
EP
marianne kuiper milks wrote:
I have glazed greenware tiles, (which works, I've tried it), regular green ware and some low-fire biscuit/glazed objects. Basically all, at this point, should work fine at ^05. (The pre-bicsuit pieces were fired at about 07/06, depending where they were in the kiln.
This is a gaskiln and too big for either one of these separately. Because of Christmas, I must fire all these. Don't want to waste 3 loads to fire gas, and my testkiln is not here yet.
My question: how BIG a chance do I have for something to get really screwed up, which part may that be, even though they are separated by shelves. And...would it help to put glazed ware higher than biscuit ware, or the other way around???
I have a torchbearer Olympic, 13 cft downdraft.
I'd really, really appreciate some advice on this, because I'm getting in trouble here! (package has to be shipped to Great Britain!). My other email must have gone by the wayside.
Thanks, Marianne
---------------------------------
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______________________________________________________________________________
Send postings to clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
You may look at the archives for the list or change your subscription
settings from http://www.ceramics.org/clayart/
Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be reached at melpots@pclink.com.
Elizabeth Priddy
Beaufort, NC - USA
http://www.elizabethpriddy.com
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marianne kuiper milks on tue 6 dec 05
Thank you so much, Elizabeth!
I need to get these things done! Most (all, really) of my non-tile glazed stuff is ^6. The little bit of tiles @ 04ish..well, not so little any more, actually, just has to share a dark room with the green stuff. No choice...too high a cost for propane firing to have two half loads.
I do have 7 segments of tile stacking "things" (too tired to think right now) so between it all I should have a good chance. And tomorrow I'm picking up a test kiln, finally, a good one at that, for any low-fire problem-children.
That was good ( and well illustrate, poor girl :) advice. Exactly what I needed. Thank you and Goodnight!
Marianne
Elizabeth Priddy wrote: Hi
Tiles rarely burst and when they do, the don't go far. The bisque
work is the least likey to burst and so should be on top. The green
with glaze should go on the bottom because the chunk that might fly
will stick to whatever it hits. The green tiles should go in the middle.
You might make a dam barrier on that shelf and if any chunks fly, they
will just hit the kiln post and sit there. Imagine a shelf with its riser
posts in four or three points as usual, but posts lying on their side length
around the perimeter of the shelf. An extended pre-heat will give you
enough insurance that you don't need this, but then again, if you have
enough posts, why not.
Since the posts won't completely block the air on the shelf, you should still
flow fine.
When I have fired for school classes, I put bisqued work on top and green on
bottom. My student, who took over the clay program when I retired, didn't
ask and to my shame, I never mentioned this. She loaded it the opposite
way and found a burst sculpture spread from the top all the way to the floor
with chunks sticking to glazed pieces all the way down.
So, don't do that. The reason she did it was because the sculpture was
quite large (more ammo!) and she didn't have long posts. I have some
one foot posts for just this occassion. She does too, now.
EP
marianne kuiper milks wrote:
I have glazed greenware tiles, (which works, I've tried it), regular green ware and some low-fire biscuit/glazed objects. Basically all, at this point, should work fine at ^05. (The pre-bicsuit pieces were fired at about 07/06, depending where they were in the kiln.
This is a gaskiln and too big for either one of these separately. Because of Christmas, I must fire all these. Don't want to waste 3 loads to fire gas, and my testkiln is not here yet.
My question: how BIG a chance do I have for something to get really screwed up, which part may that be, even though they are separated by shelves. And...would it help to put glazed ware higher than biscuit ware, or the other way around???
I have a torchbearer Olympic, 13 cft downdraft.
I'd really, really appreciate some advice on this, because I'm getting in trouble here! (package has to be shipped to Great Britain!). My other email must have gone by the wayside.
Thanks, Marianne
---------------------------------
Yahoo! Shopping
Find Great Deals on Gifts at Yahoo! Shopping
______________________________________________________________________________
Send postings to clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
You may look at the archives for the list or change your subscription
settings from http://www.ceramics.org/clayart/
Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be reached at melpots@pclink.com.
Elizabeth Priddy
Beaufort, NC - USA
http://www.elizabethpriddy.com
---------------------------------
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______________________________________________________________________________
Send postings to clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
You may look at the archives for the list or change your subscription
settings from http://www.ceramics.org/clayart/
Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be reached at melpots@pclink.com.
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