Brad Carter on thu 8 dec 05
=?ISO-8859-1?Q?na?=
Donna,
I'd love to try your bronze green/raspberry cobo that gives opal green. Can
you give a bit more detail including the Bronze Green recipe you use and how
you layer these, how thick, etc?
Regarding Randy's Red and Floating Blue--I did a lot of searching in the
archieves for cone six iron reds, including Randy's Red. What I summarized from
the many posts I found on the subject is that I should fire to a "hard" cone
six, with a slow cool down. I had hoped to be able to fire Floating Blues
with iron red glazes, but I recall one post saying the that FB comes out "snot "
green. This seems to indicate that these two types of glazes cannot be fired
together sucessfully.
True or sNOT true??
Brad Carter
Donna Kat on fri 9 dec 05
=?ISO-8859-1?Q?na?=
On Thu, 8 Dec 2005 13:03:53 EST, Brad Carter wrote:
>Donna,
>
>I'd love to try your bronze green/raspberry cobo that gives opal green.
Can
>you give a bit more detail including the Bronze Green recipe you use and
how
>you layer these, how thick, etc?
>
>Regarding Randy's Red and Floating Blue--I did a lot of searching in the
>archieves for cone six iron reds, including Randy's Red. What I
summarized from
>the many posts I found on the subject is that I should fire to a "hard"
cone
>six, with a slow cool down. I had hoped to be able to fire Floating Blues
>with iron red glazes, but I recall one post saying the that FB comes
out "snot "
>green. This seems to indicate that these two types of glazes cannot be
fired
>together sucessfully.
>
>True or sNOT true??
>
>Brad Carter
>
I fire both together frequently with no problem. The floating blue and
Toby's (Randy's) Red must be on thick. Both seem to need to sit for a bit
after having been maded up before using. I have not a clue why (FeO FeO2
change?). Randy's Red will be gorgeous inside a pot and less interesting
outside. I think there was general agreement that it held its temperature
inside longer and that the glaze was more likely to be thicker. As I
said, slow cool down at the period where the crystals form is critical.
Otherwise you get a blah brown with both. It is important, I think, to use
the high quality Iron in both. I have never gotten a blah green out of my
floating blue and I think that is why. I don't know if we are using
different recipes
Floating Blue Green
Neph Syn 4730
Gerstley B 2700
Flint 2030
EPK (Kaolin) 540
Cobalt Oxide 100
Red Iron Oxide (Special) 200
Rutile (light) 400
Bentonite 100
10000
///////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////
Toby' Red
Gerstley B 3200
Flint 3000
Soda Feldspar F4 2000
Talc 1400
EPK (Kaolin) 500
Red Iron Oxide (Special) 15% colorant 1515
Bentonite Flocculent (add to water 1st) 100
10100
////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////
Honey
Spodumene 3000
Flint 2000
Gerstley B 1400
Talc 1300
Dolomite 700
EPK (Kaolin) 500
Rutile 600
can add Ganular Manganese O2* 100-500
Bentonite flocculent add to water 1st 190
9500
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