Steve Slatin on tue 20 dec 05
Llewellyn --
Check http://ceramic-materials.com/cermat/material/1204.html
for recipe and photos of what my be the world's most simple
^6 floating blue glaze -- 80:20 Alberta slip to Frit 3134 with
2 - 5% rutile.
Crazes over some bodies, but not all -- passed leaching test
every time I tested it, and looks good even when it does craze;
thin and over white stoneware or porcelain it's a sort of tan
base; over regular stoneware it varies in the browns..
It supports a slow cool well, but if you put it on very thick,
fire to a hard ^6 and use a slow cool it may run (that is, it's
reliable unless you sort of abuse it).
-- Steve Slatin
Llewellyn Kouba wrote:
Does anyone have a recommendation for a good floating blue at cone 6
firing range.
I am doing a second glaze test and would like to find a good glaze for
Porcelain or stoneware.
Thanks in advance.
Br.Llewellyn Kouba
Steve Slatin --
And I've seen it all, I've seen it all
Through the yellow windows of the evening train...
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Llewellyn Kouba on tue 20 dec 05
Does anyone have a recommendation for a good floating blue at cone 6
firing range.
I am doing a second glaze test and would like to find a good glaze for
Porcelain or stoneware.
Thanks in advance.
Br.Llewellyn Kouba
--
http://www.assumptionabbey.com/Pottery/index.html
Llewellyn Kouba
ABBEY POTTERY
Stoneware, Porcelain, Terra Cotta, and
Native Clays.
Assumption Abbey, Richardton ND USA
Carol Tripp on wed 21 dec 05
You could go to
http://www.frogpondpottery.com/glazestability/stableglazes.html
scroll down to the recipe list.
I just have to say here that I have marked my glaze notebook DO NOT BOTHER
WITH ANYTHING FLOATING BLUE. I am shouting at myself to remind me of all
the fruitless efforts spent pursuing a glaze that simply doesn't work for
me. You may have better luck. However, I have used the Floating Blue
colourant mix with a couple different base glazes and been pleased with the
results. Do you have Mastering Cone 6 Glazes?
Best regards,
Carol
Dubai, UAE
Llewellyn Kouba wrote:
>Does anyone have a recommendation for a good floating blue at cone 6
>firing range.
>
>I am doing a second glaze test and would like to find a good glaze for
>Porcelain or stoneware.
_________________________________________________________________
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John Rodgers on wed 21 dec 05
Llewellyn,
My Floating Blue is basically Chapelles Floating Blue. It works for me
every time, but it took me a long time to nail it down. I use it only on
Laguna ^5 B-mix and on Standards Grolleg Porcelain ^6. On these two it
works.
My FB must be fired to cone 5 only. The hotter it fires the more the
color shifts to green. Chapelles FB uses Gerstley Borate, which is a
relatively inconsistant material. It disappeared off the market for a
time, and there was a scramble to find alternatives, and a number of
people tried to re-develop FB using other ingredients, but I never found
the altered FB to be as good as the original Chapelles FB. Now that
gerstley is readily available again I use it in spite of the
variability. Each time I open a new bag of gerstley I make a test glaze
batch from the new bag, just to be sure of how the glaze will be.
There are certain things I have worked out to get consistency.
Mix glaze using DISTILLED WATER ONLY
Set the density or specific gravity of the glaze at 1.3
Bisque your pot(s) to cone 06
Dip for glazing and keep totally submerged for 15 seconds (dip only for
best results)
Fire to witness cone 5 bent horizontal
When firing is done, immediately plug all holes and let cool normaly -
no fans on the kiln or anything like that. When the kiln is at room
temperature, only then open the kiln.
The recipe I use follows:
Floating Blue ^5 w/gerstley borate
EPK - 5.4%
Gerstley Borate - 27%
Neph. Syenite - 47.3%
Silica - 20.3%
Total - 100%
add:
RIO 2.0
Cobalt Oxide - 1.0
(substitute cobalt carbonate at 2.0% in place of cobalt oxide)
Rutile - 4.0
John Rodgers on wed 21 dec 05
Llewellyn,
My Floating Blue is basically Chapelles Floating Blue. It works for me
every time, but it took me a long time to nail it down. I use it only on
Laguna ^5 B-mix and on Standards Grolleg Porcelain ^6. On these two it
works.
My FB must be fired to cone 5 only. The hotter it fires the more the
color shifts to green. Chapelles FB uses Gerstley Borate, which is a
relatively inconsistant material. It disappeared off the market for a
time, and there was a scramble to find alternatives, and a number of
people tried to re-develop FB using other ingredients, but I never found
the altered FB to be as good as the original Chapelles FB. Now that
gerstley is readily available again I use it in spite of the
variability. Each time I open a new bag of gerstley I make a test glaze
batch from the new bag, just to be sure of how the glaze will be.
There are certain things I have worked out to get consistency.
Mix glaze using DISTILLED WATER ONLY
Set the density or specific gravity of the glaze at 1.3
Bisque your pot(s) to cone 06
Dip for glazing and keep totally submerged for 15 seconds (dip only for
best results)
Fire to witness cone 5 bent horizontal
When firing is done, immediately plug all holes and let cool normaly -
no fans on the kiln or anything like that. When the kiln is at room
temperature, only then open the kiln.
The recipe I use follows:
Floating Blue ^5 w/gerstley borate
EPK - 5.4%
Gerstley Borate - 27%
Neph. Syenite - 47.3%
Silica - 20.3%
Total - 100%
add:
RIO 2.0
Cobalt Oxide - 1.0
(substitute cobalt carbonate at 2.0% in place of cobalt oxide)
Rutile - 4.0
John Rodgers
Chelsea, AL
Twirt at Hutchtel on wed 21 dec 05
We also use a floating blue...also known as rutile blue...at cone 10, but
that's not a significant difference for these glazes. The issues are the
same at cone 10 as at cone 6. If you'll go back in the archives about 3
years, you'll find a long discussion of the rutile blues and what works and
what doesn't. Search for
moonlight (in the body search) rutile and rutile blue.
Try also
http://lsv.ceramics.org/scripts/wa.exe?A2=ind0107D&L=CLAYART&P=R14592 These
are cone 10 recipes.
Some things we know from 10 years of doing this are:
if you want a real blue, use a low iron body and fire in oxidation or very
light reduction.
The blue comes from crystals formed during the cooling. Electric kilns and
crash cooling gas kilns don't allow much crystal formation. The glaze will
look watery.
Reduction will bring iron up out of the body and darken the body, causing
the blue to go more greenish.
Thickness of application is critical. Too thick and you get white...too
thin and it's baby poop green.
We add .3% cobalt carbonate to the base recipe but it really doesn't do that
much. If you add more, you are dying the base matrix blue...might as well
do a cobalt blue. Our original glaze was fro John Conrad's book, changed by
Ron Roy and finally by Tom Buck.
If you insist on trying rutile blues, as has been stated here recently...be
prepared to spend a lot of time perfecting it.> My Floating Blue is
basically Chapelles Floating Blue. It works for me
> every time, but it took me a long time to nail it down.
Tom Wirt
Chris Schafale on wed 21 dec 05
Apologies to Tom Wirt ahead of time if I'm misunderstanding, but I would
totally disagree with the following statement and wonder if he's actually
spent much time messing with the notorious and beloved cone 6 FB (which
usually refers to Chappell's version):
At 05:21 PM 12/21/2005, you wrote:
>We also use a floating blue...also known as rutile blue...at cone 10, but
>that's not a significant difference for these glazes. The issues are the
>same at cone 10 as at cone 6.
The issues are actually completely different, as these are two completely
different glaze systems.
The famous/infamous Cone 6 floating blue is a blue made from cobalt and
rutile, and it also contains a significant amount of iron. The rutile, in
combination with a high-boron glaze base, creates the "floating",
variegated quality, but the blue is heavily dependent on the cobalt. This
is not strictly a rutile blue in the sense that Tom means. It is a cobalt
blue with the color and visual texture modified by rutile and iron.
Moonlight and other true cone 10 rutile blue recipes, on the other hand,
have only a tiny amount of cobalt if any, as Tom points out, and the blue
truly does come from the rutile.
>Some things we know from 10 years of doing this are:
>if you want a real blue, use a low iron body and fire in oxidation or very
>light reduction.
I get better FB on a brown clay body than on white bodies; dark brown best
of all.
>The blue comes from crystals formed during the cooling.
Cone 6 FB gets its blue from cobalt.
>Electric kilns and
>crash cooling gas kilns don't allow much crystal formation. The glaze will
>look watery.
Chappell's FB needs a quick cool. Long slow cool=snot green.
>Reduction will bring iron up out of the body and darken the body, causing
>the blue to go more greenish.
Can't speak to that -- haven't tried cone 6 FB in reduction.
>Thickness of application is critical. Too thick and you get white...too
>thin and it's baby poop green.
Baby poop green/brown can happen when you put Chappell's FB too thin on a
white claybody, which is partly why I like it better on a brown
clay. Putting it too thin on a brown body just gives you dark
brown/black. Snot, on the other hand, results from excessively slow
cooling or firing too hot.
>If you insist on trying rutile blues, as has been stated here recently...be
>prepared to spend a lot of time perfecting it.
The preceding I totally agree with, despite disagreements on all the other
points. Chappell's FB can be a heartbreaker, especially if you use good
old Gerstley Borate.
I speak as one who has wasted a lot of time and pots trying to get FB to
work for me without crazing, crawling, turning snot green, blistering,
etc. Like some other folk, I have moved on to other glaze bases for my blues.
It all depends what you are after, but my suggestion is to start with a
base glaze that has plenty of boron sourced from frits, and then use the FB
colorants. HINT: if you use a long, slow cool a la MC6G, play with using
less rutile and more iron if you like the classic dark background with
subtle blue overlay. Use the standard amount of rutile if you want a fully
opaque, lighter blue.
Chris
Llewellyn Kouba on fri 23 dec 05
Thanks John,
When I get the time here I am going to give your blue a test run. Your
approach to the blue sounds very interesting. I appreciate the time.
Thank you.
Br. Llewellyn Kouba
John Rodgers wrote:
> Llewellyn,
>
> My Floating Blue is basically Chapelles Floating Blue. It works for me
> every time, but it took me a long time to nail it down. I use it only on
> Laguna ^5 B-mix and on Standards Grolleg Porcelain ^6. On these two it
> works.
>
> My FB must be fired to cone 5 only. The hotter it fires the more the
> color shifts to green. Chapelles FB uses Gerstley Borate, which is a
> relatively inconsistant material. It disappeared off the market for a
> time, and there was a scramble to find alternatives, and a number of
> people tried to re-develop FB using other ingredients, but I never found
> the altered FB to be as good as the original Chapelles FB. Now that
> gerstley is readily available again I use it in spite of the
> variability. Each time I open a new bag of gerstley I make a test glaze
> batch from the new bag, just to be sure of how the glaze will be.
>
> There are certain things I have worked out to get consistency.
>
> Mix glaze using DISTILLED WATER ONLY
> Set the density or specific gravity of the glaze at 1.3
> Bisque your pot(s) to cone 06
> Dip for glazing and keep totally submerged for 15 seconds (dip only for
> best results)
> Fire to witness cone 5 bent horizontal
> When firing is done, immediately plug all holes and let cool normaly -
> no fans on the kiln or anything like that. When the kiln is at room
> temperature, only then open the kiln.
>
> The recipe I use follows:
>
> Floating Blue ^5 w/gerstley borate
>
> EPK - 5.4%
> Gerstley Borate - 27%
> Neph. Syenite - 47.3%
> Silica - 20.3%
> Total - 100%
>
> add:
> RIO 2.0
> Cobalt Oxide - 1.0
> (substitute cobalt carbonate at 2.0% in place of cobalt oxide)
> Rutile - 4.0
>
> John Rodgers
> Chelsea, AL
>
> ______________________________________________________________________________
>
> Send postings to clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
>
> You may look at the archives for the list or change your subscription
> settings from http://www.ceramics.org/clayart/
>
> Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be reached at
> melpots@pclink.com.
>
--
http://www.assumptionabbey.com/Pottery/index.html
Llewellyn Kouba
ABBEY POTTERY
Stoneware, Porcelain, Terra Cotta, and
Native Clays.
Assumption Abbey, Richardton ND USA
Llewellyn Kouba on fri 23 dec 05
Carol,
Forgot what I originally wanted to correspond for. I am not sure I have
Mastering cone 6 glazes but I do believe i have that one and have to
check by studio book case again.
Llewellyn
Carol Tripp wrote:
> You could go to
> http://www.frogpondpottery.com/glazestability/stableglazes.html
> scroll down to the recipe list.
>
> I just have to say here that I have marked my glaze notebook DO NOT
> BOTHER
> WITH ANYTHING FLOATING BLUE. I am shouting at myself to remind me of all
> the fruitless efforts spent pursuing a glaze that simply doesn't work for
> me. You may have better luck. However, I have used the Floating Blue
> colourant mix with a couple different base glazes and been pleased
> with the
> results. Do you have Mastering Cone 6 Glazes?
>
> Best regards,
> Carol
> Dubai, UAE
>
>
>
>
>
>
> Llewellyn Kouba wrote:
>
>> Does anyone have a recommendation for a good floating blue at cone 6
>> firing range.
>>
>> I am doing a second glaze test and would like to find a good glaze for
>> Porcelain or stoneware.
>
>
> _________________________________________________________________
> Express yourself instantly with MSN Messenger! Download today it's FREE!
> http://messenger.msn.click-url.com/go/onm00200471ave/direct/01/
>
> ______________________________________________________________________________
>
> Send postings to clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
>
> You may look at the archives for the list or change your subscription
> settings from http://www.ceramics.org/clayart/
>
> Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be reached at
> melpots@pclink.com.
>
--
http://www.assumptionabbey.com/Pottery/index.html
Llewellyn Kouba
ABBEY POTTERY
Stoneware, Porcelain, Terra Cotta, and
Native Clays.
Assumption Abbey, Richardton ND USA
Earl Brunner on fri 23 dec 05
Notice this message, it IS basically just a thank you like yours, but has just a couple of additional sentences that make it more than JUST a "thank you"
It wasn't perfect though, it had ALL of the previous posts attached at the bottom with no cropping. Messy.
All Mel wants is for people to be more sensitive to the burden that 100 or so messages can be to the list as a whole and to try to be personally responsible (and for that 100 or so messages that make it to the list, there are an additionsl 200 or more spam and garbage that is weeded out, NOT including what the moderator might have to screen if he has to enforce the rules). Being subtle has not seemed to do the job. People get mad or upset when we don't enforce the rules, people get mad and upset when we do.
Earl Brunner e-mail: brunv53@yahoo.com
----- Original Message ----
From: Llewellyn Kouba
To: CLAYART@LSV.CERAMICS.ORG
Sent: Friday, December 23, 2005 3:31:01 AM
Subject: Re: Anyone have a Floating Blue recipe for cone 6
Thanks John,
When I get the time here I am going to give your blue a test run. Your
approach to the blue sounds very interesting. I appreciate the time.
Thank you.
Br. Llewellyn Kouba
John Rodgers wrote:
> Llewellyn,
>
> My Floating Blue is basically Chapelles Floating Blue. It works for me
> every time, but it took me a long time to nail it down. I use it only on
> Laguna ^5 B-mix and on Standards Grolleg Porcelain ^6. On these two it
> works.
>
> My FB must be fired to cone 5 only. The hotter it fires the more the
> color shifts to green. Chapelles FB uses Gerstley Borate, which is a
> relatively inconsistant material. It disappeared off the market for a
> time, and there was a scramble to find alternatives, and a number of
> people tried to re-develop FB using other ingredients, but I never found
> the altered FB to be as good as the original Chapelles FB. Now that
> gerstley is readily available again I use it in spite of the
> variability. Each time I open a new bag of gerstley I make a test glaze
> batch from the new bag, just to be sure of how the glaze will be.
>
> There are certain things I have worked out to get consistency.
>
> Mix glaze using DISTILLED WATER ONLY
> Set the density or specific gravity of the glaze at 1.3
> Bisque your pot(s) to cone 06
> Dip for glazing and keep totally submerged for 15 seconds (dip only for
> best results)
> Fire to witness cone 5 bent horizontal
> When firing is done, immediately plug all holes and let cool normaly -
> no fans on the kiln or anything like that. When the kiln is at room
> temperature, only then open the kiln.
>
> The recipe I use follows:
>
> Floating Blue ^5 w/gerstley borate
>
> EPK - 5.4%
> Gerstley Borate - 27%
> Neph. Syenite - 47.3%
> Silica - 20.3%
> Total - 100%
>
> add:
> RIO 2.0
> Cobalt Oxide - 1.0
> (substitute cobalt carbonate at 2.0% in place of cobalt oxide)
> Rutile - 4.0
>
> John Rodgers
> Chelsea, AL
>
Gary Harvey on fri 23 dec 05
look in the archives they have quite a few.G. Harvey Palestine TX
----- Original Message -----
From: "Llewellyn Kouba"
To:
Sent: Tuesday, December 20, 2005 2:31 PM
Subject: Anyone have a Floating Blue recipe for cone 6
> Does anyone have a recommendation for a good floating blue at cone 6
> firing range.
>
> I am doing a second glaze test and would like to find a good glaze for
> Porcelain or stoneware.
> Thanks in advance.
>
> Br.Llewellyn Kouba
>
> --
> http://www.assumptionabbey.com/Pottery/index.html
>
> Llewellyn Kouba
> ABBEY POTTERY
> Stoneware, Porcelain, Terra Cotta, and
> Native Clays.
> Assumption Abbey, Richardton ND USA
>
> ______________________________________________________________________________
> Send postings to clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
>
> You may look at the archives for the list or change your subscription
> settings from http://www.ceramics.org/clayart/
>
> Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be reached at
> melpots@pclink.com.
>
tomkastan@COMCAST.NET on thu 29 dec 05
Hi,
Floating Blue is one of my favorite glazes. I used to put it on a chocolate brown ^6 clay body (Standard Clay 266) with excellent results.
I haven't used it in years, but my wife and I are finally ramping up our home studio, and plan to mix it up soon.
Over the summer, I visited one of my former ceramics instructors in Atlanta. The center where I had attended was thinking about discoutinuing Floating Blue, since the results were so bad. My instructor would use the same batch of the same glaze in the home studio, and have excellent results.
The difference is that the center had shifted to using programmable kiln sitters, and the instructor was still using pyrometric cones. We suspect that the firing profile for the programmable sitters should be adjusted to better match the results using a pyrometric cone.
Cheers,
Tom Kastan
Voorhees, New Jersey
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