Marcia Selsor on tue 27 dec 05
I would recommend paper clay. Also to repair the breaks, I mix toilet
paper (soaked overnight) with the dried clay (also soaked overnight)
in a blender . Add a dash of sodium silicate and re-bisque. But for
delicate sculptural work, paper clay can't be beat. The above
patching blend works very well and can rebuild student's' handles
that break when they pick up a bisqued piece. If you have hard
freezes, you have to do frost tests.
Marcia Selsor
On Dec 27, 2005, at 8:41 PM, 2ley wrote:
> I've just done a search of the archives, and found very little that
> was
> helpful, although that may be my own skills at using the search
> function.
>
> At any rate, my wife has started sculpting garden/house masks, and
> has been
> having problems with the leaves on her green man breaking off if so
> much as
> a cat touches them. This is after bisquing and glazing at cone
> 05. Now, we
> know the issue is the clay itself, I was wondering what clay you
> all would
> recommend for this kind of work, The leaves are about 1/8 inch
> thick and
> are about 2x3/4 inches in length and width. We can high-fire if
> needed, but
> I'd prefer staying in the low to mid firing ranges for obvious
> economic
> reasons. Any suggestions?
>
> Thanks
> Philip
>
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2ley on tue 27 dec 05
I've just done a search of the archives, and found very little that was
helpful, although that may be my own skills at using the search function.
At any rate, my wife has started sculpting garden/house masks, and has been
having problems with the leaves on her green man breaking off if so much as
a cat touches them. This is after bisquing and glazing at cone 05. Now, we
know the issue is the clay itself, I was wondering what clay you all would
recommend for this kind of work, The leaves are about 1/8 inch thick and
are about 2x3/4 inches in length and width. We can high-fire if needed, but
I'd prefer staying in the low to mid firing ranges for obvious economic
reasons. Any suggestions?
Thanks
Philip
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