Judy Rohrbaugh on thu 29 dec 05
Does anyone have any suggestions on glazing fat, almost sphere shaped pots?
They are from 5-8 inches tall. I plan to dip the bottom third of the pot into glaze, then would like to get another glaze in the center, and a third or fourth at the rim. Sort of a landscape look.
I am concerned about getting the middle glaze on. In the past, the pots haven't been as fat, so I could just dip for the center, then wipe off at the top.
I tried a few in my last load, and painting in the center didn't work, also dipping then trying to paint glaze over the finger marks didn't work.
I have an airbrush that needs a part, but wasn't thinking of spraying, unless that is the only alternative.
Thank you and happy new year to all.
Judy Rohrbaugh
Fine Art Stoneware
Ohio
marvpots@juno.com on thu 29 dec 05
try masking tape.
marvin flowerman
mtigges@NOSPAM.SHAW.CA on thu 29 dec 05
On Thu, Dec 29, 2005 at 08:34:37AM -0800, Judy Rohrbaugh wrote:
> Does anyone have any suggestions on glazing fat, almost sphere shaped pots?
> They are from 5-8 inches tall. I plan to dip the bottom third of the pot into glaze, then would like to get another glaze in the center, and a third or fourth at the rim. Sort of a landscape look.
>
> I am concerned about getting the middle glaze on. In the past, the pots haven't been as fat, so I could just dip for the center, then wipe off at the top.
>
> I tried a few in my last load, and painting in the center didn't work, also dipping then trying to paint glaze over the finger marks didn't work.
>
> I have an airbrush that needs a part, but wasn't thinking of spraying, unless that is the only alternative.
> Thank you and happy new year to all.
>
slip trailing bottle while someone turns the pot for you. That's how
I do it. But for a sphere shape it will be hard to get a thin even
"stripe."
Mark.
Steve Slatin on thu 29 dec 05
Judy --
Pour a bit of the glaze you want on the middle portion in a flat tray.
Hold the pot with the pot's vertical axis horizontal relative to the tray.
Rotate the pot around its own vertical axis, dipping the middle segment
through the glaze in the tray.
Lift the pot from the tray immediately and do a full 360 degree rotation
to make sure that you got the entire target area covered. If you do
this segment first, your hands are dry and the pot is dry and there're
no finger marks anywhere, everything works out fine.
-- Steve Slatin
Judy Rohrbaugh wrote:
Does anyone have any suggestions on glazing fat, almost sphere shaped pots?
They are from 5-8 inches tall. I plan to dip the bottom third of the pot into glaze, then would like to get another glaze in the center, and a third or fourth at the rim. Sort of a landscape look.
Steve Slatin --
And I've seen it all, I've seen it all
Through the yellow windows of the evening train...
---------------------------------
Yahoo! DSL Something to write home about. Just $16.99/mo. or less
Candace Young/Norman Czuchra on thu 29 dec 05
I would use liquid latex on the top 3rd, dip the middle over the latex, let
dry, peel latex and dip the now unglazed top 3rd. Candace
At 08:34 AM 12/29/2005 -0800, you wrote:
>Does anyone have any suggestions on glazing fat, almost sphere shaped pots?
>
Candace Young mailto:candace@bayriverpottery.com
Norm Czuchra mailto:norm@bayriverpottery.com
www.bayriverpottery.com
107 S. Water Street, P.O. Box 394
Bayboro, NC 28515
252.745.4749
Dr. James McDonough on thu 29 dec 05
Try hot wax, an electric wok is perfect on a low setting.
Wax the foot, glaze the bottom third, then let it dry.
Invert the pot, glaze the top, then wax the top and with the pot
inverted glaze the middle third.
A different glaze may then be used as a liner.
This allows a thin strip of a contrasting color or colors with a crisp
edge.
Jim
Jim McDonough
jmmcdonough@bellsouth.net
jmcdonough@avlplasticsurgery.com
5 Livingston Street
Asheville, NC 28801
828 254 1234 office
828 230 6225 cell
828 254 1234 fax
On Dec 29, 2005, at 3:03 PM, mtigges@NOSPAM.SHAW.CA wrote:
> On Thu, Dec 29, 2005 at 08:34:37AM -0800, Judy Rohrbaugh wrote:
>> Does anyone have any suggestions on glazing fat, almost sphere shaped
>> pots?
>> They are from 5-8 inches tall. I plan to dip the bottom third of
>> the pot into glaze, then would like to get another glaze in the
>> center, and a third or fourth at the rim. Sort of a landscape look.
>>
>> I am concerned about getting the middle glaze on. In the past, the
>> pots haven't been as fat, so I could just dip for the center, then
>> wipe off at the top.
>>
>> I tried a few in my last load, and painting in the center didn't
>> work, also dipping then trying to paint glaze over the finger marks
>> didn't work.
>>
>> I have an airbrush that needs a part, but wasn't thinking of
>> spraying, unless that is the only alternative.
>> Thank you and happy new year to all.
>>
>
> slip trailing bottle while someone turns the pot for you. That's how
> I do it. But for a sphere shape it will be hard to get a thin even
> "stripe."
>
> Mark.
>
> _______________________________________________________________________
> _______
> Send postings to clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
>
> You may look at the archives for the list or change your subscription
> settings from http://www.ceramics.org/clayart/
>
> Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be reached at
> melpots@pclink.com.
>
Shula on thu 29 dec 05
There have been some great ideas suggested about how to glaze the sphere, but then how do you intend to fire it? Are you going to use stilts (I think that's what they are called) or ?????
Shula
Redondo Beach, CA
glad to be home after a long day
looking forward to this weekend when I can throw some pots.
> Glaze the bottom third. Wax resist it, leaving an edge unwaxed so
>you don't leave a bare gap. For the middle, dip the bottom again.
>You can wax the middle now, if you like, to keep the edge where you want
>it. Then dip the top.
>
>--
>Lee Love
Rikki Gill on thu 29 dec 05
I have glazed hundreds of ginger jars, and decorated them. I once had a
slip caster/partner.
I first poured a clear glaze on the inside. Then I dipped the bottom third,
so that when I set it down, it would be on a clean dry bottom. Next I took
a large brush, one of the Japanese glaze brushes because you need a brush
that holds a lot of glaze. Place one hand, carefully, inside. I would glaze
a circle with the brush, usually in one go-round, next to the bottom color.
After letting it dry for a time, I would dip the top, holding it carefully
by the bottom with two hands. Let it dry before handling it again. Then use
another, perhaps thinner brush to connect the bare area between the stripes.
I would look carefully for thin glazed spots and fill those in with a small
calligraphy brush and slightly thinned glaze. You can gently rub the surface
of the glaze if you want it to cover better, and eliminate pin holes.
Or, you can lay it on its side in a large vat of glaze, properly thinned.
Lift out, pour out glaze on inside, let dry, and do the same on the other
side.
Then it is ready to be decorated.
Hope this helps.
Rikki Gill
www.rikkigillceramics.com
Lee Love on fri 30 dec 05
On 2005/12/30 1:34:37, jrohrbaugh@sbcglobal.net wrote:
> Does anyone have any suggestions on glazing fat, almost sphere shaped
> pots?
> They are from 5-8 inches tall. I plan to dip the bottom third of the
> pot into glaze, then would like to get another glaze in the center,
and a
> third or fourth at the rim. Sort of a landscape look.
Glaze the bottom third. Wax resist it, leaving an edge unwaxed so
you don't leave a bare gap. For the middle, dip the bottom again.
You can wax the middle now, if you like, to keep the edge where you want
it. Then dip the top.
--
Lee Love
in Mashiko, Japan http://mashiko.org
http://seisokuro.blogspot.com/ My Photo Logs
"Simplicity is the ultimate sophistication."
--Leonardo da Vinci
Chris Schafale on fri 30 dec 05
I've had a lot of trouble when I tried to apply wax over glaze -- the wax just curled up and peeled off. Is this something that only works with hot wax? (I've only tried wax resist).
Chris
Lee Love suggested:
>
> Glaze the bottom third. Wax resist it, leaving an edge unwaxed so
>you don't leave a bare gap. For the middle, dip the bottom again.
>You can wax the middle now, if you like, to keep the edge where you want
>it. Then dip the top.
>
Elizabeth Priddy on fri 30 dec 05
Paint your own places do a ton on easter egg forms,
they just paint them with a brush and glaze. And then
fire them on stilts, but this is usually low fire.
Could you make "stilt" posts out of high firing wire for
stoneware egg forms? Anyone done this? Or would the
high fired wire bend under the weight, making an egg form
with a permanent "growth"?
A serious question as I have had students ask for a
complete high fire glaze job and I have not messed with that
wire to know how much it gives at high heat.
If the decoration is underglaze color with a clear coat
on top, you could fire with a gap to touch the shelves and
then fill in the spot with poly resin after, assuming a globular
shape is not for food.
(Say "globular" out loud but slowly, now that is good times)
E
Shula wrote:
There have been some great ideas suggested about how to glaze the sphere, but then how do you intend to fire it? Are you going to use stilts (I think that's what they are called) or ?????
Elizabeth Priddy
Beaufort, NC - USA
http://www.elizabethpriddy.com
---------------------------------
Yahoo! for Good - Make a difference this year.
Donald G. Goldsobel on fri 30 dec 05
:
>> Does anyone have any suggestions on glazing fat, almost sphere shaped
>> pots?
>> They are from 5-8 inches tall. I plan to dip the bottom third of the
>> pot into glaze, then would like to get another glaze in the center, and a
>> third or fourth at the rim.
To get the center section of a sphere glazed--get a shallow tray and fill
with glaze; hold the pot horizontally and dip only the center in the glaze
and rotate till you have a complete coverage. Lift and continue to rotate to
avoid unevenness due to drips. Keep it horizontal until the glaze sets.
Donald
Happy New Year to All
Ron Roy on fri 30 dec 05
Hi Judy,
Just a small variation on all the excellent suggestions you are getting.
My problem was how to get an even coat of the same glaze on such forms. I
dipped the bottowm three quarters in glazes then waxed the dipped part
enough so I could hold the form while I dipped the top part.
In order to get the two coats to meet and have the first coat thick enough
not to show the join - I would cut through the waxed part and scrape the
wax and glaze off part of the first dip before I dipped the top part.
All a little trickey because you had to be able to hold the form while
dipping the top so the first dip sometimes had to be close to the top - not
so easy with large forms.
Hope I explained that in a way you can understand it - much easier to show
than to explain.
RR
>Does anyone have any suggestions on glazing fat, almost sphere shaped pots?
> They are from 5-8 inches tall. I plan to dip the bottom third of the
>pot into glaze, then would like to get another glaze in the center, and a
>third or fourth at the rim. Sort of a landscape look.
>
> I am concerned about getting the middle glaze on. In the past, the pots
>haven't been as fat, so I could just dip for the center, then wipe off at
>the top.
>
> I tried a few in my last load, and painting in the center didn't work,
>also dipping then trying to paint glaze over the finger marks didn't work.
>
> I have an airbrush that needs a part, but wasn't thinking of spraying,
>unless that is the only alternative.
> Thank you and happy new year to all.
>
> Judy Rohrbaugh
Ron Roy
RR#4
15084 Little Lake Road
Brighton, Ontario
Canada
K0K 1H0
Phone: 613-475-9544
Fax: 613-475-3513
L. P. Skeen on fri 30 dec 05
If you are referring to the commercially made stilts which come in several
shapes, but are basically a ceramic form with spikes of wire coming out,
they will work at cone 6; I have used them many times. Can't speak to
firing at any higher temp, however.
L
----- Original Message -----
From: "Elizabeth Priddy"
> A serious question as I have had students ask for a
> complete high fire glaze job and I have not messed with that wire to
> know how much it gives at high heat.
IndianCreek on fri 30 dec 05
Elizabeth Priddy asked:
Could you make "stilt" posts out of high firing wire for
stoneware egg forms? Anyone done this? Or would the
high fired wire bend under the weight, making an egg form
with a permanent "growth"?
I have seen many folks try to stilt items in my guild's ^10 kiln, and they
ALMOST never work,
Especially with the commercial type stilts that have wire points. The
ceramic piece almost always sags over the stilt, sort of like a penguin sags
that flap of skin over the egg/baby chick. Or, if the pot doesn't sag, the
sharp points become embedded in the clay/glaze. Clay at cone ^10 is more
fluid than you might realize, and porcelain is VERY fluid.
However, we do have one very clever fellow who makes hollow spheres that we
fire for him on his homemade stoneware tripods. Just clay, no wire. These
always seem to work, he has just three small rough spots he smoothes out
after he breaks the tripod off. I think the sphere shape is stronger than
most other shapes, and is less likely to sag. His are made from two thin
pinch pots put together, with such attention to detail that you cannot find
a seam or dent. (For fun he puts porcelain scrap inside them, so when you
jiggle them, they make music) He makes a new tripod for each sphere, and we
bisque them as a set. The spheres are maybe three inches across at the
greenware stage, and the stilts are finger sized, about 3" tall tapered to
a rounded point, on a little round dish, which also catches glaze drips, as
he puts a pretty thick runny glaze on them. So, yes, you can do this, if
your pot is light for it's size, and structurally strong, and your stilt
doesn't have sharp points.
I am no expert, this is just from my observations, and I hope others have
more ideas on the subject
Pam in cold cold Kansas City
Rikki Gill on fri 30 dec 05
Hi Chris,
I don't think you need to use wax. Just your eyes. And your hands. And
the right size brushes.
I buy the ones that look like 6-8 smaller brushes in a line. They are made
in Asia, and hold a lot of glaze.
You put one hand inside the vase, one outside with a large surface brush
ready to go.
You paint an area by rotating the arm holding the vase, and also moving the
brush. You go as far as you can in one swoop,
then reloading the brush, you pick up where you left off.
Yes, it takes practice. It is worth it. IMHO.
Rikki Gill
www.rikkigillceramics.com
----- Original Message -----
From: "Chris Schafale"
To:
Sent: Friday, December 30, 2005 5:44 AM
Subject: Re: question on glazing sphere shaped pots
> I've had a lot of trouble when I tried to apply wax over glaze -- the wax
> just curled up and peeled off. Is this something that only works with hot
> wax? (I've only tried wax resist).
>
Gene Somdahl on sat 31 dec 05
Another solution is to do your banding in slip on greenware. The edges
of the bands can be trimmed for a clean line. A transparent glaze can
then be used on the whole pot. Or slip the whole pot and carve away the
bands. Using slip allows very precise edges and makes glazing a lot easier.
| |
|
