louroess2210 on fri 6 jan 06
On Jan 6, 2006, at 11:30 AM, marianne kuiper milks wrote:
> However: I have also draped clay over a slump mold and had
> absolutely negative experience: it always cracked. I did let it dry
> on those.
Marianne, Just to clear up one point. You would drape clay over a
hump mold, (like an overturned bowl). or into a slump mold (like a
right side up bowl). The first would crack as it dries and the clay
shrinks. The trick is to take it off before it dries to that point.
The clay in the slump mold likely would not crack as it dries, since
it is shrinking toward the center with no restriction.
The best separation layer I have found is tissue paper, smoothed
onto the slab and then put on or into the mold. This would not slip
off your stainless steel platter.
There is an article in the Nov-Dec 2004 issue of Pottery Making
Illustrated which goes into detail about how to make plates and bowls
from molds - lots of hints and tips.
Regards
Lou in Colorado
marianne kuiper milks on fri 6 jan 06
Hello Lou, I have a question re mold use.
I have not really used molds very often, except half-balls with the clay on the inside, removing it as soon as I could, to make full globes. I therefore have no experience with cracking. Yet.
However: I have also draped clay over a slump mold and had absolutely negative experience: it always cracked. I did let it dry on those.
I have some molds from plaster, but have also seen other people use objects such as ceramic and metal plates/bowls. I tried with a stainless steel plate I particularly like- same trouble. This is what I would particularly like to use because of their unique shapes. I tried plasic between clay and object and it just slipped off. My main concern is the cracking/shrinking.
Could you think of a way to do this correctly? I would appreciate it very much.
Marianne Kuiper Milks
Honesdale, PA
louroess2210 wrote: On Jan 6, 2006, at 8:18 AM, Mary/Adams wrote:
>
> I'm still struggling to make plates that are larger than 10" wide and
> platters. They remain very heavy and crack easily. Any best
> methods you
> might like to share? Is it better to do molds? And, if so, how?
>
> m
Dear m,
Do you first lift the rim as if you were making a very wide
cylinder , then lay it down when the clay has stiffened some? Might
be worth a try.
Molds are easy. Buy a commercial piece that's bigger than you want
your piece to be to allow for shrinkage. Roll out a slab and apply it
to the piece, using a separator like talc, plastic or tissue paper.
Place a thin piece of cloth on top and rib it smooth. Trim the
edges . You can let it dry in the mold since it is a slump mold.
Good luck
Lou in Colorado
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Russel Fouts on mon 9 jan 06
Walter Ostrom showed us a really cool, simple way to make plates.
1. Throw a ring that represents the negative space under the plate's
rim, allowing for shrinkage. You'll have to calculate this twice,
once for the shrinkage of the ring and then again for the srinkage of
the plate you're going to make. ie. if your clay shrinks 10% you
throw the ring 20% larger than the size of the finished plate (??)
2. Wire it to separate it from the bat.
3. When it's leather hard, clean it up.
4. Test it by draping a slab of clay over it and pressing it down
into the ring. The bottom of the plate is formed by pressing the
bottom of the slab against the bat.
5a. If you like it bisque it.
5a. If you don't like it toss it in the recycle and start over.
You can probably see that there are lots of possible variations:
1. throw a deep ring so that you can make a rounded cavity (a bocale)
2. throw and then cut the ring into a number of parts and rejoin to
make different shapes.
3. Throw an insert with a groove that you can place in the center of
the ring, put a coil in the groove, score and slip it and then drape
your slab and you'll have a footed plate.
4. etc.
He uses a lot of these to make his stuff.
Russel
Russel Fouts
Mes Potes & Mes Pots
Brussels, Belgium
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Jody on mon 9 jan 06
I have two wooden hump molds I use. I will let the clay form overnight
covered lightly with plastic and remove in the morn. If it dries on a hump
mold the clay will crack. Of course, the clay has a lot to do with it also,
I use Soldate 60 and Raku white two sturdy clays. I also use a lot of slump
molds......large, round, plastic sleds, plastic plates, odd shaped glass
bowls. I always spray with WD-40, they can dry in mold and not crack, but I
usually take them out, clean up and place on shelf. On plaster molds
sprinkle with powder.
Good Luck,
Jody Rath
Riverbend pottery
----- Original Message -----
From: "marianne kuiper milks"
To:
Sent: Friday, January 06, 2006 12:30 PM
Subject: Re: Best way to make plates and platters,question
> Hello Lou, I have a question re mold use.
> I have not really used molds very often, except half-balls with the clay
> on the inside, removing it as soon as I could, to make full globes. I
> therefore have no experience with cracking. Yet.
> However: I have also draped clay over a slump mold and had absolutely
> negative experience: it always cracked. I did let it dry on those.
> I have some molds from plaster, but have also seen other people use
> objects such as ceramic and metal plates/bowls. I tried with a stainless
> steel plate I particularly like- same trouble. This is what I would
> particularly like to use because of their unique shapes. I tried plasic
> between clay and object and it just slipped off. My main concern is the
> cracking/shrinking.
> Could you think of a way to do this correctly? I would appreciate it very
> much.
> Marianne Kuiper Milks
> Honesdale, PA
>
> louroess2210 wrote: On Jan 6, 2006, at 8:18 AM,
> Mary/Adams wrote:
>>
>> I'm still struggling to make plates that are larger than 10" wide and
>> platters. They remain very heavy and crack easily. Any best
>> methods you
>> might like to share? Is it better to do molds? And, if so, how?
>>
>> m
>
> Dear m,
> Do you first lift the rim as if you were making a very wide
> cylinder , then lay it down when the clay has stiffened some? Might
> be worth a try.
> Molds are easy. Buy a commercial piece that's bigger than you want
> your piece to be to allow for shrinkage. Roll out a slab and apply it
> to the piece, using a separator like talc, plastic or tissue paper.
> Place a thin piece of cloth on top and rib it smooth. Trim the
> edges . You can let it dry in the mold since it is a slump mold.
> Good luck
> Lou in Colorado
>
> ______________________________________________________________________________
> Send postings to clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
>
> You may look at the archives for the list or change your subscription
> settings from http://www.ceramics.org/clayart/
>
> Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be reached at
> melpots@pclink.com.
>
>
>
>
> ---------------------------------
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> Ring in the New Year with Photo Calendars. Add photos, events, holidays,
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>
> ______________________________________________________________________________
> Send postings to clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
>
> You may look at the archives for the list or change your subscription
> settings from http://www.ceramics.org/clayart/
>
> Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be reached at
> melpots@pclink.com.
>
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