Gary Finfrock on sun 8 jan 06
Hi All,
I have been making some flatware from dishes, trays, and platters. The
mold forms are standard utilitarian items of plastic, glazed ceramic, or
metal. I found by spraying the mold with a cooking spray the clay separates easily
enough. My problem is if the item doesn't survive long enough to make it to
bisque, the oil content of the recycled clay causes cracking. This can be
quite evident when throwing and opening up the centered clay. Sometimes the oil
will cause a hefty gash to develope in the drying form. Can anyone tell me a
better material to use for allowing the leather hard form to separate from
the mold that won't cause grief in recycling the clay?
Thanks gang,
Gary Finfrock
Inverness, Florida
John Jensen on sun 8 jan 06
Gary;
WD40- is water soluble, 100% volatile and will work for mold release on non
porous molds.
Might work for you.
John Jensen, Mudbug Pottery
John Jensen@mudbugpottery.com
http://www.toadhouse.com http://www.mudbugpottery.com
http://www.mudbugblues.com
My problem is if the item doesn't survive long enough to make it
> to
> bisque, the oil content of the recycled clay causes cracking.
Susan Nebeker on sun 8 jan 06
Gary,
Ellen Currans, a great potter and fellow Clayarter has shared her method with us and it works fabulously when using any of the forms you mentioned.
WD-40 lightly sprayed or brushed onto the mold makes a perfect release.
Never had any problem with the scrap clay afterwards, either.
Hope that helps,
Susan Nebeker
Pollywog Pottery
Gary Finfrock wrote:
Hi All,
I have been making some flatware from dishes, trays, and platters. The
mold forms are standard utilitarian items of plastic, glazed ceramic, or
metal. I found by spraying the mold with a cooking spray the clay separates easily
enough. My problem is if the item doesn't survive long enough to make it to
bisque, the oil content of the recycled clay causes cracking.
---------------------------------
Yahoo! Photos
Got holiday prints? See all the ways to get quality prints in your hands ASAP.
Alyssa Ettinger on sun 8 jan 06
gary,
why not use plaster molds? once the piece starts drying it will pop right
out (if you're using a concave mold, as opposed to a hump mold). i generally
pop mine out with the hose from the air compressor in our studio. (and,
actually, i have formed slabs on top of existing plates, without any coating
like oil, and used the same air boost to pop the plate off.
alyssa
www.alyssaettinger.com
Richard Aerni on sun 8 jan 06
Gary,
What I have done while using press molds is to fill a sock with grog, and
"dust" the mold before pressing. It provides separation between the two
media. It creates a bit of dust, so take care that your work area has some
ventilation. I don't know the level of your involvement with clay, but if
you are intending to make these forms repeatedly, I would urge you to cast
the molds out of plaster (Pottery Plaster#1, or moulding plaster) and you
won't have any separation issues.
Best,
Richard Aerni
Rochester, NY
On Sun, 8 Jan 2006 15:25:24 EST, Gary Finfrock
wrote:
>Hi All,
>
> I have been making some flatware from dishes, trays, and platters. The
>mold forms are standard utilitarian items of plastic, glazed ceramic, or
>metal. I found by spraying the mold with a cooking spray the clay
separates easily
>enough. My problem is if the item doesn't survive long enough to make it to
>bisque, the oil content of the recycled clay causes cracking. This can be
>quite evident when throwing and opening up the centered clay. Sometimes
the oil
>will cause a hefty gash to develope in the drying form. Can anyone tell me a
>better material to use for allowing the leather hard form to separate from
>the mold that won't cause grief in recycling the clay?
Elizabeth Priddy on sun 8 jan 06
I use paper in the form or a soft cheesecloth for
just the reason you describe.
for a square form, a cross of long rectangles of paper
and cheesecloth for round.
It leaves a texture that you can either scrape off
or leave (which I do, cause I like it)
I also have inverse of all my forms so that they can be
unmolded rather soft and signed, finished on the bottom.
And then removed to dry. It is not good to try to dry
work on hump molds. Molds are for making things, not
drying!
E
Gary Finfrock wrote:
Can anyone tell me a
better material to use for allowing the leather hard form to separate from
the mold that won't cause grief in recycling the clay?
Thanks gang,
Gary Finfrock
Elizabeth Priddy
Beaufort, NC - USA
http://www.elizabethpriddy.com
---------------------------------
Yahoo! Photos
Got holiday prints? See all the ways to get quality prints in your hands ASAP.
Ellen Currans on sun 8 jan 06
In a message dated 1/8/06 8:35:45 PM !!!First Boot!!!,
Garybear34452@WMCONNECT.COM writes:
> quite evident when throwing and opening up the centered clay. Sometimes
> the oil
> will cause a hefty gash to develope in the drying form. Can anyone tell me a
> better material to use for allowing the leather hard form to separate from
> the mold that won't cause grief in recycling the clay?
>
>
Dear Gary,
I have used glass, metal, wood and bisque forms for my slab pieces for over
l5 years. I make my living from my pottery: about 1/2 is thrown on the wheel
and the rest is slab work using found objects for the forms - not plaster.
I smooth the top surface of the slab with a window sqeegee. The bottom
retains a slight canvas texture, which I find to be quite smooth after firing and
seldom requires much sanding. After using the squeegee I brush on a fine coat
of cornstarch before impressing textures or moving the slab to the form.
I coat the form with a very thin coat of WD-40, which I do not spray on, but
spread on with a foam brush. You can buy WD-40 in a gallon can at farm
implement or car parts places. Keep just a cup or so in a squeeze bottle, dot on
what you need and spread it around carefully to cover all edges, indentations,
etc. If you spray you have it floating around in the air. If you spread you
will hardly notice any fumes.
On a morning that I might make 30 pieces, I will have almost as much scrap
left as I use in the pots. It goes immediately into a plastic bag and back to
the pug mill. I have never had any problems reusing clay with WD-40 on it.
No cracking or separation or problem with glaze or drying. The clay will not
stick unless you have left bare spots. When you remove the pot, wipe the
moisture from the form and it is ready to use again.
My clay is a Cone 10 stoneware, that I use soft to throw with and firmer for
slabs.
I have not had any experience with porcelain or low fire clays. Some clays
may not be as adaptable as mine - there always seem to be exceptions.
Ellen Currans
Dundee, Oregon , who doesn't know where the NCECA gallery shows are, what
they are, or where the shuttle buses are going either!
Susan Stern on sun 8 jan 06
In a message dated 1/8/2006 3:35:45 PM Eastern Standard Time,
Garybear34452@WMCONNECT.COM writes:
> I have been making some flatware from dishes, trays, and platters. The
> mold forms are standard utilitarian items of plastic, glazed ceramic, or
> metal. I found by spraying the mold with a cooking spray the clay separates
> easily
> enough. My problem is if the item doesn't survive long enough to make it to
> bisque, the oil content of the recycled clay causes cracking. This can be
> quite evident when throwing and opening up the centered clay. Sometimes the
> oil
> will cause a hefty gash to develope in the drying form. Can anyone tell me
> a
> better material to use for allowing the leather hard form to separate from
> the mold that won't cause grief in recycling the clay?
I always use newspaper to create a barrier between clay and any kind of
plastic, metal or glass molds. It moved with the clay as it shrinks and doesn't
cause any drag or stress and it lets go easily. Plus, it's cheap.
Susie
Kathy Forer on mon 9 jan 06
Gary Finfrock wrote:
> Can anyone tell me a
> better material to use for allowing the leather hard form to
> separate from
> the mold that won't cause grief in recycling the clay?
Gary
If the clay is unforgiving and you want to stay with using oil or
other intrusive additive, it might be useful to keep separate clay
recycling bins.
Kathy
Kathi LeSueur on mon 9 jan 06
If I'm using a hump mold I always dust it with cornstarch. The clay
releases quite easily. Just put some in an old sock and shake it on the
mold. Or you can just shake it on the clay befoe you put it over the
mold. The cornstarch just burns away in the firing.
Kathi
| |
|
