search  current discussion  categories  kilns & firing - misc 

bailey kiln

updated thu 3 dec 09

 

Lazaro Fonte on sat 14 jan 06


I just bought a new bailey kiln mmodel #1822-10 3.3 cu.ft. i am tring to do
my first fire but all I am getting is it saying idle. Can someone help me
get past the point. So it will start a fire.

William & Susan Schran User on sun 15 jan 06


On 1/14/06 11:21 PM, "Lazaro Fonte" wrote:

> I just bought a new bailey kiln mmodel #1822-10 3.3 cu.ft. i am tring to do
> my first fire but all I am getting is it saying idle. Can someone help me
> get past the point. So it will start a fire.

Always - first call goes to manufacturer/supplier when one encounters any
problems with equipment. They should have somebody available to answer your
questions and walk you through the process.

If you want to start a fire, push the kiln up against a wall made of
combustible materials, then....

I'm sorry, I couldn't help myself.

-- William "Bill" Schran
Fredericksburg, Virginia
wschran@cox.net
wschran@nvcc.edu

Maurice Weitman on sun 15 jan 06


On 1/14/06 11:21 PM, "Lazaro Fonte" wrote:

> I just bought a new bailey kiln mmodel #1822-10 3.3 cu.ft. i am tring to do
> my first fire but all I am getting is it saying idle. Can someone help me
> get past the point. So it will start a fire.


Hello Lazaro,

With the information you've provided, it's hard to tell what steps
you've already taken (or neglected to take).

There are several steps that precede pressing the "Start" button on
your Bartlett controller.

The cone sitter must be set up properly. A program must be
entered.or selected.

If you'd like, you can email me privately (to momud3@mo.com) with
your phone number and I'll try to walk you through it.

But really, you ought to give the manuals a good read.

You should have gotten three manuals from Bailey: one for the kiln,
one for the kiln sitter, and one for the Bartlett controller. I
haven't mine in front of me, but I recall their being step-by-step
instructions in the "main" manual to walk you through the two
test/break-in firings (one low-fire, one high). After those, you
ought to be more confident, even experienced to begin your adventures
with your new kiln.

Regards,
Maurice

ps You should ignore the un-helpful "advice" you got from Bill
Schran; he's usually more helpful than that. Perhaps he didn't
realize (or consider) that Bailey (and I'd guess all kiln
manufacturers) would not be available for support over the weekend.

Arnold Howard on mon 16 jan 06


From: "Lazaro Fonte"
>I just bought a new bailey kiln mmodel #1822-10 3.3 cu.ft. i am tring to
>do
> my first fire but all I am getting is it saying idle. Can someone help me
> get past the point. So it will start a fire.

If the controller remains on IdLE even after you press the keys, then the
keypad may be defective. You might try unplugging the kiln for 10 seconds.
Sometimes "rebooting" the controller solves problems.

Sincerely,

Arnold Howard
Paragon Industries, L.P., Mesquite, Texas USA
ahoward@paragonweb.com / www.paragonweb.com

Mary Jane on mon 30 nov 09


I am in the process of buying an electric kiln. This will be my first. =
=3D
Most of=3D20
the people I know have Skutt or Olympic kilns and are happy with them. I=
=3D
=3D20
don't personally know anyone that has a Bailey kiln - but I am drawn to t=
=3D
he=3D20
idea of the superinsulated kiln (3.5 inches) and the floor element in the=
=3D
Bailey=3D20
kiln. I would also buy the Bailey single vent system. Does anyone have=3D=
20=3D

personal experience with the Bailey superinsulated electric kilns and wit=
=3D
h the=3D20
Bailey vent system? I would likely be doing bisque firings and cone 6 gl=
=3D
aze=3D20
firings. I would like the option of doing occasional cone 10 firings and=
=3D
this kiln=3D20
is listed as a cone 10 kiln. Any comments/help would be appreciated. It=
=3D
is a=3D20
big investment so I am trying to collect as much data as possible before=3D=
20=3D

actually making a decision. Is there any reason why I should take a clos=
=3D
er=3D20
look at Skutt or Olympic instead of buying the Bailey?=3D20=3D20

Thanks in advance for any help. MJ

Weiland, Jeff on mon 30 nov 09


Mary Jane,
I was able to get a Bailey electric kiln this summer at school and have a d=
=3D
ozen firings in so far. It does hold the heat for a looooong time. I have b=
=3D
een firing a manual kiln for so long that it is taking some time to get use=
=3D
d to the electronic controls. I did blow up a bunch of student sculptures w=
=3D
hen I messed up on the ramp speed for a cone 06 bisque. Had a lot of ticked=
=3D
off students. Now that I am getting the hang of the control panel, things =
=3D
are going great with the firings. I can see how easy it is to just punch a =
=3D
few buttons and let it do the firing unattended. The model I have has three=
=3D
thermocouples sticking quite far into the chamber. I am anticipating bumpi=
=3D
ng into them with shelves while loading and unloading. I hope that does not=
=3D
become and expensive issue. I have a vented kiln room so venting individua=
=3D
l kilns is not an issue. I glaze at cone 6 so have not taken it any higher =
=3D
than that. Hope this helps.


Jeff Weiland
Greenfield-Central High School
810 North Broadway
Greenfield, Indiana 46140
317-462-9211
jweiland@gcsc.k12.in.us



-----Original Message-----
From: Clayart [mailto:Clayart@LSV.CERAMICS.ORG] On Behalf Of Mary Jane
Sent: Monday, November 30, 2009 11:43 AM
To: Clayart@LSV.CERAMICS.ORG
Subject: Bailey Kiln

I am in the process of buying an electric kiln. This will be my first. Mo=
=3D
st of=3D20
the people I know have Skutt or Olympic kilns and are happy with them. I=
=3D20
don't personally know anyone that has a Bailey kiln - but I am drawn to the=
=3D
=3D20
idea of the superinsulated kiln (3.5 inches) and the floor element in the B=
=3D
ailey=3D20
kiln. I would also buy the Bailey single vent system. Does anyone have=3D=
20
personal experience with the Bailey superinsulated electric kilns and with =
=3D
the=3D20
Bailey vent system? I would likely be doing bisque firings and cone 6 glaz=
=3D
e=3D20
firings. I would like the option of doing occasional cone 10 firings and t=
=3D
his kiln=3D20
is listed as a cone 10 kiln. Any comments/help would be appreciated. It i=
=3D
s a=3D20
big investment so I am trying to collect as much data as possible before=3D=
20
actually making a decision. Is there any reason why I should take a closer=
=3D
=3D20
look at Skutt or Olympic instead of buying the Bailey? =3D20

Thanks in advance for any help. MJ

Mary Jane on mon 30 nov 09


Thanks Jeff. Do the thermocouplers come farther into the kiln on the Bai=
=3D
ley=3D20
than on other computerized kilns? I would also be looking at 3 zone.

Out of curiosity - did you use one of the preprogrammed firing options on=
=3D
the=3D20
load that had the blow up - or were you entering your own program for tha=
=3D
t?=3D20=3D20
Was the ware wet by any chance?=3D20=3D20

Thanks so much for your help. MJ

Maurice Weitman on mon 30 nov 09


At 11:42 -0500 on 11/30/09, Mary Jane wrote:
>[...]
>Does anyone have
>personal experience with the Bailey superinsulated electric kilns and with=
the
>Bailey vent system? I would likely be doing bisque firings and cone 6 gla=
ze
>firings. I would like the option of doing occasional cone 10
>firings and this kiln
>is listed as a cone 10 kiln. Any comments/help would be appreciated. It =
is a
>big investment so I am trying to collect as much data as possible before
>actually making a decision.

Hello, Mary Jane, Jeff, and fellow travellers,

I bought a Bailey kiln like the one you describe about five years ago
(while I lived in California -- I now live 11 miles from Bailey!!!).
Mine is the 10 cubic foot, with 3.5" insulation, an element in the
floor, and a Bartlett controller.

I wrote a rather long post to clayart shortly after I ordered it.
You may read it, and other messages about insulation in electric
kilns in the archives. My post is here:
m=3D147926>

Incidentally, you may search the archives here
, or just use
google, adding "clayart" if you want to find past clayart discussions
on your topic.

Having some time with the Bailey kiln, I would update my "review" as
follows: I would say that it's been very reliable, fairly efficient,
well built, and if I were in the market again (not knowing the
current market offerings), I'd look upon that kiln favorably.

I've had no problem firing to cone 10, though it obviously took a lot
longer than a cone 6 firing, and longer than I'd like and thought it
should take.

I've since taken steps to further insulate the kiln by building a
platform with a ring of 2.5" IFB to match the walls with two inches
of fiber in the middle... the bricks of the kiln floor (having the
bottom element ) had no insulation below them. I also fire with a 1"
layer of fiber atop the kiln's lid.

And if it were easier to do, I'd add more insulation to the sides.
(I've heard from others who thought it would be fine wrapping fiber
around the outside of the stainless shell, but I'm pretty sure it
would trash it in a few years, though it's tempting to do it anyhow.)

I don't know if they offer an option (it wasn't available in '04) for
S-type thermocouples, but if they did, I'd gladly pay the extra few
hundred for the added accuracy and longevity.

>Is there any reason why I should take a closer
>look at Skutt or Olympic instead of buying the Bailey?

In my experience, I think Skutt makes a fine kiln, as does L&L (the
element holders are a real benefit), but I chose Bailey for the
reasons I gave. I wouldn't buy an Olympic; they're just not made as
well as the others mentioned. I've never owned or worked with a
Paragon, but they look good and Arnold Howard's always here for us.

I'm happy to answer any questions you may have.

At 15:18 -0500 on 11/30/09, Weiland, Jeff wrote:
>[...] The model I have has three thermocouples sticking quite far
>into the chamber. I am anticipating bumping into them with shelves
>while loading and unloading. I hope that does not become and
>expensive issue.

Jeff, thermocouples need to be sticking into the kiln to avoid the
influence of the bricks and elements. I agree that one needs to be
careful to not smash one with a shelf, but that's true in any kiln
with thermocouples.

>I have a vented kiln room so venting individual kilns is not an
>issue. I glaze at cone 6 so have not taken it any higher than that.

A vented kiln room is no substitute for a vented kiln. While a
vented room may help humans stay healthy, also important is keeping
the atmosphere inside the kiln clean, and for that, one needs a
negative pressure (also called downdraft) kiln vent.

And the Bailey vent system is excellent. Others might be just as
good. Be sure to mount the fan unit so that the outflow (the part
that's under positive pressure) is right at the point where it exits
the building. You should avoid any ducting blowing nasty stuff
inside the building. Put another way, if there's a leak in the
suction side of the duct, no big deal, but a leak under pressure will
infiltrate the room.

I hope all that is intelligible... I'm a bit punchy and will be glad
to clarify and expand later.

Regards,
Maurice

Marcia Selsor on mon 30 nov 09


As many companies you mention, Bailey makes quality equipment. I have
many pieces of Bailey equipment
slab roller, extruder from the 80s, wheel, but not a kiln. We did have
one in Montana in our co-op. Good kiln.
I have Axner super kilns, itc'ed, extra insulation. I think the
additional insulation is key at this point.

Marcia
On Nov 30, 2009, at 10:42 AM, Mary Jane wrote:

> I am in the process of buying an electric kiln. This will be my
> first. Most of
> the people I know have Skutt or Olympic kilns and are happy with
> them. I
> don't personally know anyone that has a Bailey kiln - but I am drawn
> to the
> idea of the superinsulated kiln (3.5 inches) and the floor element
> in the Bailey
> kiln. I would also buy the Bailey single vent system. Does anyone
> have
> personal experience with the Bailey superinsulated electric kilns
> and with the
> Bailey vent system? I would likely be doing bisque firings and cone
> 6 glaze
> firings. I would like the option of doing occasional cone 10
> firings and this kiln
> is listed as a cone 10 kiln. Any comments/help would be
> appreciated. It is a
> big investment so I am trying to collect as much data as possible
> before
> actually making a decision. Is there any reason why I should take a
> closer
> look at Skutt or Olympic instead of buying the Bailey?
>
> Thanks in advance for any help. MJ
>

Marcia Selsor
http://marciaselsor.com

Snail Scott on mon 30 nov 09


On Nov 30, 2009, at 10:42 AM, Mary Jane wrote:
> ...Most of
> the people I know have Skutt or Olympic kilns and are happy with them.
> I
> don't personally know anyone that has a Bailey kiln...


I would put Olympic at the bottom of the list unless
price is the most important factor. Skutt, Paragon,
and L&L are all good products in my experience,
as (I believe) are several others that I have less
experience with. (And it's my right as an American
to end a sentence with a preposition if I want to!)

We have a Bailey large oval at one of the colleges
where I teach. It is an older model. The insulation is
indeed dandy, but the lid is very heavy and the lid
counterbalance system is not well designed; some
of the weaker students cannot open it unassisted.
it is also impossible for just one person to set the
lid props, and leaving it held on just one while the
user runs to the other end to set the second prop
puts a huge strain on both the lid and the upper
ring, whose resulting misalignment makes it
impossible to close without gouging out the bricks
in the middle ring. We have now detached the lid
props entirely, detailing a second person to run
about and set them in place when the lid is lifted.
Also, the bottom element hasn't worked in years -
it has failed too often due to crud in the channel to
make it worth replacing yet again in a school setting,
and I don't miss it.

This may be old news; I hope they have improved
the design since ours was made. I also suspect
that a standard round kiln would have fewer lid
issues. They do have a generally good reputation
for quality.

-Snail

Anita Rickenberg on tue 1 dec 09


I bought a large round used Olympic kiln. I agree that the lid as =3D
designed
doesn't work well. I removed the attached supports and rigged a pulley =3D
to
open and close the lid. The pulley is attached to the ceiling above the
kiln with a wire cable attached to the handle, through the pulley, and =3D
an
attached handle that is hooked to the side wall when I'm loading the =3D
kiln.
Works well and makes a one-person loading and un-loading possible.

Anita

Linda White on tue 1 dec 09


I recently got a used Bailey Super Kiln and needed some replacement
parts. You might be interested in knowing that Olympic builds the
Super Kiln for Bailey. By the way, I've fired it a couple of times,
and it's working really well. Very happy with it.

Linda White
LickHaven Pottery
Dushore PA


On Nov 30, 2009, at 10:23 PM, Snail Scott wrote:

> On Nov 30, 2009, at 10:42 AM, Mary Jane wrote:
>> ...Most of
>> the people I know have Skutt or Olympic kilns and are happy with
>> them.
>> I
>> don't personally know anyone that has a Bailey kiln...
>
>
> I would put Olympic at the bottom of the list unless
> price is the most important factor. Skutt, Paragon,
> and L&L are all good products in my experience,

Maurice Weitman on tue 1 dec 09


At 13:13 -0500 on 12/1/09, Linda White wrote:
>I recently got a used Bailey Super Kiln and needed some replacement
>parts. You might be interested in knowing that Olympic builds the
>Super Kiln for Bailey.

Gee, Linda, I wonder where you got that information... I'm quite
certain that's incorrect. In fact, I'll bet you lunch at NCECA. For
three days.

You should double check and post your retraction soon.

I'm certain my Bailey cone 10 kiln was made by Evenheat.

I thought that Axner used an Olympic kiln as the basis for their
higher-insulated kiln line.

Regards,
Maurice

Linda White on wed 2 dec 09


>
> Gee, Linda, I wonder where you got that information... I'm quite
> certain that's incorrect. In fact, I'll bet you lunch at NCECA. For
> three days.

Maurice--
You're right. I got Bailey and Axner mixed up. Where do I send the
lunch money? I don't think I'm going to make NCECA.

Linda White
LickHaven Pottery
Dushore PA

Maurice Weitman on wed 2 dec 09


At 13:46 -0500 on 12/2/09, Linda White wrote:
>>Gee, Linda, I wonder where you got that information... I'm quite
>>certain that's incorrect. In fact, I'll bet you lunch at NCECA. For
>>three days.
>
>Maurice--
>You're right. I got Bailey and Axner mixed up. Where do I send the
>lunch money? I don't think I'm going to make NCECA.

No, Linda, I don't accept mailed-in lunch money, but thanks anyhow.

Besides, since Mel, Hank, and Marcia jumped onto the "bet Maurice for
lunch" bandwagon, they'll each get to buy a day each, so I'm all set.

Regards,
Maurice

ps For those who didn't get to jump onto the bandwagon, I'll extend
and sweeten the offer:

We'll make it for dinners at NCECA, and if I lose, I'll pay for you
and a friend. But hurry up, slots are filling fast. First come,
first served. Don't miss out!