primalmommy on sun 29 jan 06
I want to stain or varnish a stoneware "wooden" boat. I don't want a
layer of glass on it, as the clay/texture suggests wood grain. No part
of the final piece will be glazed,
I know shoe polish or minwax would do the job, but I don't want the
smell.
I would be grateful for any ideas! I have a boiled black walnut shell
"tea" I use for batik, but want a bit more of a waxy shine.
Yours
Kelly
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Paul Lewing on sun 29 jan 06
on 1/29/06 10:07 AM, primalmommy at primalmommy@MAIL2OHIO.COM wrote:
> I want to stain or varnish a stoneware "wooden" boat. I don't want a
> layer of glass on it, as the clay/texture suggests wood grain. No part
> of the final piece will be glazed,
> I would be grateful for any ideas! I have a boiled black walnut shell
> "tea" I use for batik, but want a bit more of a waxy shine.
Hi, Kelly. If you wanted a really permanent fired finish, you could use
china paint. I've been doing quite a bit of work lately on those porcelain
floor tiles that look like stone. Sometimes they have a bit of shine to
them, but they're not really glazed, and some of them are quite rough.
China paint comes in several variations, one of which is matte, unlike the
regular ones, which are made to be quite glossy, although they're also meant
to be used on a gloss glaze surface. If you put the regular ones on an
unglazed surface, they have a bit of shine, more or less depending on the
color. The browns are usually quite matte, even in the regular variety,
because they're made with chrome and zinc.
We're used to thinking of zinc as a flux, but it isn't at those temperatures
(I usually fire to 016). It's a matting agent. In fact, zinc is what they
add to regular china paints to make them matte. So you could get some brown
china paint (you'll have your choice of about 12 different colors of brown)
and see how matte it comes out on a test piece. If you want it more matte,
you add some zinc. The china paint will come as a dry powder, and the
easiest way to get zinc into it is to make a paste with sun-block lotion (be
sure to get the zinc oxide sun-block) and thin that with water or glycerin.
You then paint it on and sponge it off till you get the color you like. It
will come out amazingly like the color it was when it went in.
One warning, though. It will contain lead, so don't let the kids use it,
and wear gloves when you sponge it off. And don't panic when you just hear
the word "lead". You won't need more than a couple of grams to do the job,
(it comes in a little vial, and you probably won't need more than one vial)
and it will not volatilize when you fire it at that temperature. If you
want the name of a supplier, let me know.
Paul Lewing, Seattle
Wood Jeanne on sun 29 jan 06
Hi Kelly,
I've used car paste-wax on some pit fired pottery for
a desired shine. I really applied it heavily and
polished using elbow grease. They stink at first, but
after awhile the smell goes away.
If you have to have the work ready for a show or order
soon it won't be the best choice, but if the pottery
can sit for awhile, month or so, the smell will
dissipate but the shine stays.
-Jeanne W.
--- primalmommy wrote:
> I want to stain or varnish a stoneware "wooden"
> boat. I don't want a
> layer of glass on it, as the clay/texture suggests
> wood grain. No part
> of the final piece will be glazed,
>
> I know shoe polish or minwax would do the job, but I
> don't want the
> smell.
>
> I would be grateful for any ideas! I have a boiled
> black walnut shell
> "tea" I use for batik, but want a bit more of a waxy
> shine.
>
> Yours
> Kelly
>
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Janine LaMaie on mon 30 jan 06
Kelly:
Something you might try....
A lot of matte glazes, if applied and then sponged off will leave
a "bonelike" satin finish with color only in the interstices that the
sponge doesn't clean. A good example is Weathered Bronze (Pete Pinell, I
think)that leaves brown and a bit of green where the sponge doesn't reach,
and a very nice "old ivory" satin finish where wiped off.
Regards,
Janine
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