Gayle Bair on wed 8 feb 06
I use hardibacker in both my studios.
I use it for wedging and wareboards and mosaics.
It's easy to clean, dries quickly, takes up less space than wall board,
easy to cut to size and is very portable. I've used it for about 3 years
now.
I place a piece on a table and either clamp it down or
butt it up against a wall. A large sheet (approx. 4'x5')is about $10.
It's a cement product and comes in various thicknesses 1/4" - 1+".
Gayle Bair
Bainbridge Island, WA
Tucson, AZ
www.claybair.com
From: "carri marschner
> Hello,
>
> After being away from clay for several years, I am just setting up my
> first
> studio in my garage. Until I buy a wedging board, I'm trying to figure out
> a
> temporary place to wedge. My two thoughts so far are a) a slab of plaster
> of paris (or do plaster bats need to be made out of a different plaster?)
> or
> b) my concrete garage floor. Does anyone have thoughts on whether these
> will work? What do you reccomend for a wedging board, aside from the real
> deal?
>
> I have enjoyed following clayart for some time. Thank you for any advice
> you may have, and enjoy the beautiful city of Portland.
>
> Sincerely,
>
> Carri Marschner
> Olympia, WA
>
>
____________________________________________________________________________
__
> Send postings to clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
>
> You may look at the archives for the list or change your subscription
> settings from http://www.ceramics.org/clayart/
>
> Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be reached at
> melpots@pclink.com.
>
____________________________________________________________________________
__
Send postings to clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
You may look at the archives for the list or change your subscription
settings from http://www.ceramics.org/clayart/
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melpots@pclink.com.
--
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carri marschner on wed 8 feb 06
Hello,
After being away from clay for several years, I am just setting up my first
studio in my garage. Until I buy a wedging board, I'm trying to figure out a
temporary place to wedge. My two thoughts so far are a) a slab of plaster
of paris (or do plaster bats need to be made out of a different plaster?) or
b) my concrete garage floor. Does anyone have thoughts on whether these
will work? What do you reccomend for a wedging board, aside from the real
deal?
I have enjoyed following clayart for some time. Thank you for any advice
you may have, and enjoy the beautiful city of Portland.
Sincerely,
Carri Marschner
Olympia, WA
Taylor, in Rockport TX on wed 8 feb 06
Carri:
I have some great suggestions for you. One was suggested to me by someone
here on Clayart.
You can easily make yourself a great wedging slab. I used scrap 2x4s I had
around but you don't need that thick a form. Form up a nice rectangle or
square frame, making it the dimensions you want (lxwxh). Get some good,
strong duck (canvas) and stretch it over one side of your form. Attach it
well. Add some long nails or screws through the sides so they will be
imbedded into the plaster when you cast it. Next put your form with the
canvas face down on a suitable casting surface (I used the garage floor)
and pour in enough poperly prepared plaster. I used the ubiquitous number
one pottery plaster. Let it set up and dry for maybe a week or less and
you will have a monolithic wedging surface and the duck will be attached to
the top surface, keeping plaster chips out of your clay. I used an entire
bag of plaster for mine and although it is too thick it works great. I
have mine lifted at the front end so air can circulate under the monster--
it will absorb moisture from the clay.
I was doing a concrete job and had about half a bag of quickset left over.
I had another form of 2x2 handy so I made myself a small concrete wedging
slab about 13 by 13 inches. I used a plastic bag to seal this frame.
While the plastic side was a bit too smooth for good wedging, the
rough, 'pebbly' side worked great. You can save yourself some time and get
a few stepping stones too.
I would not suggest using your existing concrete surfaces for wedging if
you have any foot traffic over the same area. Wet clay is more slippery
than dish soap on a doornob (ever done that?) and dried clay loves to stick
to your shoes. Try one of those bats and call me goofie if they don't work
the charm.
Taylor, in Rockport TX
On Wed, 8 Feb 2006 11:18:43 -0500, carri marschner
wrote:
>Hello,
>
>After being away from clay for several years, I am just setting up my first
>studio in my garage. Until I buy a wedging board, I'm trying to figure out
a
>temporary place to wedge. My two thoughts so far are a) a slab of plaster
>of paris (or do plaster bats need to be made out of a different plaster?)
or
>b) my concrete garage floor. Does anyone have thoughts on whether these
>will work? What do you reccomend for a wedging board, aside from the real
>deal?
...
Craig Clark on wed 8 feb 06
Carri, for the quickest and simplest just wedge up your clay on a
clean, damp spot on your concrete floor. It has worked well for me on
many occassions. Alternatively, and still working on the floor, just put
down a smooth piece of plywod scrap and wedge on that. Works great. I'm
wedging on the floor more and more these days.
The one thing to keep in mind if you decide you are going to build
a wedging table is dust. In the past I've used, because I didn't know
any better, canvas covered tables. These are dust collection systems all
by themselves. Try and either use one of a wide variety of sealed
surfaces, you can find numerous references in the archives, or if you
are going to go with plaster, be sure to clean after use.
Also, if you are thinking about casting up a plaster slab for a
wedging surface I suggest you consider using either HydroCal or
HydroStone. They are both much stronger than a standard pottery plaster.
Just check with your local clay supply store and they should be able to
fix you up.
As far as concrete wedging talbes, slabs, I have heard of folks
haveing success with the concrete backer board for bathrooms. THe board
is made by Hardi and I believe it comes in a standard 3x5ft sheet.
Hope this helps
Craig Dunn Clark
619 East 11 1/2 St
Houston, Texas 77008
(713)861-2083
mudman@hal-pc.org
carri marschner wrote:
> Hello,
>
> After being away from clay for several years, I am just setting up my
> first
> studio in my garage. Until I buy a wedging board, I'm trying to figure
> out a
> temporary place to wedge. My two thoughts so far are a) a slab of
> plaster
> of paris (or do plaster bats need to be made out of a different
> plaster?) or
> b) my concrete garage floor. Does anyone have thoughts on whether these
> will work? What do you reccomend for a wedging board, aside from the
> real
> deal?
>
> I have enjoyed following clayart for some time. Thank you for any advice
> you may have, and enjoy the beautiful city of Portland.
>
> Sincerely,
>
> Carri Marschner
> Olympia, WA
>
> ______________________________________________________________________________
>
> Send postings to clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
>
> You may look at the archives for the list or change your subscription
> settings from http://www.ceramics.org/clayart/
>
> Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be reached at
> melpots@pclink.com.
>
Daniel Semler on wed 8 feb 06
Hi Carri,
I've used a plaster bat 2' x 2' on framed plywood, sitting on a table. Not a
good solution as it slides about quite a bit. I too have my studio in
my garage
so I'd push it up against the wall studs during wedging but overall not great.
As to plaster I'd recommend No 1. Pottery Plaster rather than plaster of paris
but I'm no expert on plasters. Garage floor would work if you can kneel down
comfortably while wedging I guess, but you'd probably want to keep the floor
clean. I'm not sure what a wedging board is exactly but my view now is that
unless it is pretty much unmoveable while in use any wedging surface
would be a
pain to use, and tiring.
In the end I built a wedging table out of 2 x 4's with 4 x 4 post legs at the
front bolted to three wall studs at the back. I have 2' x 2' 3/4" plywood
boards which can be swapped in and out of one half so that I can change the
boards for different clay bodies. Works great, is very sturdy, easy to clean,
doesn't really suck the water out of the body the way plaster can.
Thanx
D
Evamarie on wed 8 feb 06
Before my sons built a wedging table for me I used an old canvas -- the kind
used for oil paintings, stretched over a wooden frame. I used the back side
(with no gesso), on the floor and up against the wall to keep it from moving
around. It could be wiped clean with a wet sponge and hung on the wall when
not in use. Use a garden pad to protect your knees. I suppose you could use
it on a table as well.
Eva
Nashville, TN
> After being away from clay for several years, I am just setting up my first
> studio in my garage. Until I buy a wedging board, I'm trying to figure out a
> temporary place to wedge. My two thoughts so far are a) a slab of plaster
> of paris (or do plaster bats need to be made out of a different plaster?) or
> b) my concrete garage floor. Does anyone have thoughts on whether these
> will work? What do you reccomend for a wedging board, aside from the real
> deal?
>
> I have enjoyed following clayart for some time. Thank you for any advice
> you may have, and enjoy the beautiful city of Portland.
>
> Sincerely,
>
> Carri Marschner
> Olympia, WA
>
> ______________________________________________________________________________
> Send postings to clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
>
> You may look at the archives for the list or change your subscription
> settings from http://www.ceramics.org/clayart/
>
> Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be reached at
> melpots@pclink.com.
Feather Pottery & Interiors/Sasha & Tari Federer on wed 8 feb 06
Carrie,
Plaster is my favorite and have been using it for years.
I made a square form 1X4 material approximately 2'square. I place a heavy
duty green trash bag (contractor strength inside the form, pour in the
plaster, and voila! a wedging slab. You can make it to whatever suits your
needs.
I used plaster from Highwater Clay. I believe it was #2 plaster. For me, I
use one side for porcelain and the other for darker clay bodies. I made a
stand to set it on.
I also made another one, used a large stainless steel bowl filled with heavy
rocks as a weight so that the form has the depression of a bowl. This I use
at the end of each throwing session. In the evening I throw in the sludge,
in the morning I flip it over, and the next night it's ready to wedge again.
Tari Federer
Feather Pottery & Interiors
----- Original Message -----
From: "carri marschner"
To:
Sent: Wednesday, February 08, 2006 11:18 AM
Subject: wedging: plaster or concrete
> Hello,
>
> After being away from clay for several years, I am just setting up my
> first
> studio in my garage. Until I buy a wedging board, I'm trying to figure out
> a
> temporary place to wedge. My two thoughts so far are a) a slab of plaster
> of paris (or do plaster bats need to be made out of a different plaster?)
> or
> b) my concrete garage floor. Does anyone have thoughts on whether these
> will work? What do you reccomend for a wedging board, aside from the real
> deal?
>
> I have enjoyed following clayart for some time. Thank you for any advice
> you may have, and enjoy the beautiful city of Portland.
>
> Sincerely,
>
> Carri Marschner
> Olympia, WA
>
> ______________________________________________________________________________
> Send postings to clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
>
> You may look at the archives for the list or change your subscription
> settings from http://www.ceramics.org/clayart/
>
> Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be reached at
> melpots@pclink.com.
>
Pfeiffer, Dan R (Dan) on wed 8 feb 06
=20
We use small piece of plywood covered in canvass as a temporary wedging
table. We move it to where ever we need to and it is easy to wash where
the mud gets a bit much. Wherever I get the time I will make a better
one using hardyboard as a top on a larger table. See archives on this
topic as lots has been said already.
Dan & Laurel in Elkmont Al=20
Pfeiffer Fire Arts=20
www.pfeifferfirearts.com
Potters Council Members=20
->>>>
After being away from clay for several years, I am just setting up my
first
studio in my garage. Until I buy a wedging board, I'm trying to figure
out a
temporary place to wedge. My two thoughts so far are a) a slab of
plaster
of paris (or do plaster bats need to be made out of a different
plaster?) or
b) my concrete garage floor. Does anyone have thoughts on whether these
will work? What do you reccomend for a wedging board, aside from the
real
deal?
>>>>
Charles Moore on wed 8 feb 06
On wedging surface:
For several years, I have successfully used a table-height wedging bench
covered with untreated marine plywood. It looks quite good after some years
of use. It is easy to sponge clean, and I scrape dried particles of clay
with a plastic scraper--not a metal one, which can gouge.
Charles Moore
Sacramento
Ivor and Olive Lewis on thu 9 feb 06
Dear carri marschner=20
Concrete floors work very well.
Use a nice comfortable cushion for your Knees.
Best regards,
Ivor Lewis.
Redhill,
South Australia.
Lee Love on thu 9 feb 06
It has been a long time since I have been in a hardware back home, so I am
not sure if you can buy this kind of stuff there. I have a concrete
rectangle I rescued from the construction company that sometimes uses the
courtyard as a way station for their recycle. My block is pretty heavy
and I put it on a low table, so it is just about the same height as my wheel
platform. You can also find stone and cement tiles at the local garden
center that could work the same way.
--
Lee Love (found a sig from an old post!)
in Mashiko, Japan http://mashiko.org
http://seisokuro.blogspot.com/ My Photo Logs
http://ikiru.blogspot.com/ Zen and Craft
William & Susan Schran User on thu 9 feb 06
On 2/8/06 11:18 AM, "carri marschner" wrote:
> My two thoughts so far are a) a slab of plaster
> of paris (or do plaster bats need to be made out of a different plaster?) or
> b) my concrete garage floor. Does anyone have thoughts on whether these
> will work? What do you reccomend for a wedging board, aside from the real
> deal?
Both will work and I see no need to buy a wedging board.
The concrete floor is going to be tough on your knees and, for me, creating
sufficient inertia to get my mass moving back to an upright position is a
real core these days.
A plaster wedging board needs #1 Pottery Plaster, not Plaster of Paris,
which is too soft. You could also use Hydrocal or Hydrostone, must harder
versions.
A simple frame of 2x4's with a bottom of plywood would be all you need to
pour the plaster in. After the plaster hardens, removing the plywood bottom
and replacing with strips of 1x2"s would allow quicker drying of the plaster
if you'd like to also use it for drying out slurry for reclaiming.
Even better, a frame of 2x4's with a piece of cement backer board
(Hardiboard, etc.) over top would work just as well.
-- William "Bill" Schran
Fredericksburg, Virginia
wschran@cox.net
wschran@nvcc.edu
brendaeverill on thu 9 feb 06
-I used to have a nice wedging table where I taught, but my studio
is small. What I use now is canvas covered boards. I have several
for different clay bodies. I took marine plywood and stapled the
canvas onto the edges and put a lath strip on the front. I just put
it up on my bench to wedge and that way it stays anchored to the
table and does not move too much. The best thing about the portable
boards is that they can be taken out back and hosed off so I don't
have to breathe the dust. That and the fact you can use the bench
for something else when you are not wedging. I am sure everyone does
this, but I havent seen anyone yet who uses this system. Hope it is
not too basic an idea. I am way too old to get down on the floor and
wedge anymore, but I have done my share of that, too.
Brenda in Arizona.--
In clayart@yahoogroups.com, Craig Clark wrote:
>
> Carri, for the quickest and simplest just wedge up your clay
on a
> clean, damp spot on your concrete floor. It has worked well for me
on
> many occassions. Alternatively, and still working on the floor,
just put
> down a smooth piece of plywod scrap and wedge on that. Works
great. I'm
> wedging on the floor more and more these days.
> The one thing to keep in mind if you decide you are going to
build
> a wedging table is dust. In the past I've used, because I didn't
know
> any better, canvas covered tables. These are dust collection
systems all
> by themselves. Try and either use one of a wide variety of sealed
> surfaces, you can find numerous references in the archives, or if
you
> are going to go with plaster, be sure to clean after use.
> Also, if you are thinking about casting up a plaster slab for a
> wedging surface I suggest you consider using either HydroCal or
> HydroStone. They are both much stronger than a standard pottery
plaster.
> Just check with your local clay supply store and they should be
able to
> fix you up.
> As far as concrete wedging talbes, slabs, I have heard of folks
> haveing success with the concrete backer board for bathrooms. THe
board
> is made by Hardi and I believe it comes in a standard 3x5ft sheet.
> Hope this helps
> Craig Dunn Clark
> 619 East 11 1/2 St
> Houston, Texas 77008
> (713)861-2083
> mudman@...
>
> carri marschner wrote:
>
> > Hello,
> >
> > After being away from clay for several years, I am just setting
up my
> > first
> > studio in my garage. Until I buy a wedging board, I'm trying to
figure
> > out a
> > temporary place to wedge. My two thoughts so far are a) a slab
of
> > plaster
> > of paris (or do plaster bats need to be made out of a different
> > plaster?) or
> > b) my concrete garage floor. Does anyone have thoughts on
whether these
> > will work? What do you reccomend for a wedging board, aside
from the
> > real
> > deal?
> >
> > I have enjoyed following clayart for some time. Thank you for
any advice
> > you may have, and enjoy the beautiful city of Portland.
> >
> > Sincerely,
> >
> > Carri Marschner
> > Olympia, WA
> >
> >
_____________________________________________________________________
_________
> >
> > Send postings to clayart@...
> >
> > You may look at the archives for the list or change your
subscription
> > settings from http://www.ceramics.org/clayart/
> >
> > Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be reached at
> > melpots@...
> >
>
>
_____________________________________________________________________
_________
> Send postings to clayart@...
>
> You may look at the archives for the list or change your
subscription
> settings from http://www.ceramics.org/clayart/
>
> Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be reached at
melpots@...
>
Laurel Carey on thu 9 feb 06
Brenda,
I use this method as well, and as you say, have different boards for
different clays (white, buff, brown). On the opposite end from the
lath strip I screwed in an old cabinet handle, this makes them easier
to carry out to rinse (I have diminished grip strength) and also you
can hang them on the wall by the handle.
Part of my workbench is at waist height and part is at hip height. I
wedge at the lower end, but it is nice to be able to use that end for
other work, particularly if the piece is tall and you want to be able
to see down inside.
Laurel
On Feb 9, 2006, at 9:42 AM, brendaeverill wrote:
> -I used to have a nice wedging table where I taught, but my studio
> is small. What I use now is canvas covered boards. I have several
> for different clay bodies. I took marine plywood and stapled the
> canvas onto the edges and put a lath strip on the front. I just put
> it up on my bench to wedge and that way it stays anchored to the
> table and does not move too much. The best thing about the portable
> boards is that they can be taken out back and hosed off so I don't
> have to breathe the dust. That and the fact you can use the bench
> for something else when you are not wedging. I am sure everyone does
> this, but I havent seen anyone yet who uses this system. Hope it is
> not too basic an idea. I am way too old to get down on the floor and
> wedge anymore, but I have done my share of that, too.
> Brenda in Arizona.--
brendaeverill on fri 10 feb 06
Laurel,
I did not figure I was the only one. That is a good idea about the
handles. My studio is very small. I have to stack them up against
the wall. I wish I had room for a hip height table as well as the
one work bench I have, but there is no room.
A hip height table is very important, though, good you mentioned it.
Brenda in AZ
- In clayart@yahoogroups.com, Laurel Carey wrote:
>
> Brenda,
>
> I use this method as well, and as you say, have different boards
for
> different clays (white, buff, brown). On the opposite end from the
> lath strip I screwed in an old cabinet handle, this makes them
easier
> to carry out to rinse (I have diminished grip strength) and also
you
> can hang them on the wall by the handle.
>
> Part of my workbench is at waist height and part is at hip
height. I
> wedge at the lower end, but it is nice to be able to use that end
for
> other work, particularly if the piece is tall and you want to be
able
> to see down inside.
>
> Laurel
>
> On Feb 9, 2006, at 9:42 AM, brendaeverill wrote:
>
> > -I used to have a nice wedging table where I taught, but my
studio
> > is small. What I use now is canvas covered boards. I have several
> > for different clay bodies. I took marine plywood and stapled the
> > canvas onto the edges and put a lath strip on the front. I just
put
> > it up on my bench to wedge and that way it stays anchored to the
> > table and does not move too much. The best thing about the
portable
> > boards is that they can be taken out back and hosed off so I
don't
> > have to breathe the dust. That and the fact you can use the bench
> > for something else when you are not wedging. I am sure everyone
does
> > this, but I havent seen anyone yet who uses this system. Hope it
is
> > not too basic an idea. I am way too old to get down on the floor
and
> > wedge anymore, but I have done my share of that, too.
> > Brenda in Arizona.--
>
>
_____________________________________________________________________
_________
> Send postings to clayart@...
>
> You may look at the archives for the list or change your
subscription
> settings from http://www.ceramics.org/clayart/
>
> Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be reached at
melpots@...
>
Donna Kat on fri 10 feb 06
It looks like this subject has been covered pretty well but I will stick in
a few odds and ends. I have used cement board (what you use in bathrooms to
put tile on) and still use it when my plaster board is filled with clay. It
works just fine (and is a cheap easy solution - plus you can put it
anywhere) but I find nothing nicer than a plaster board. I recycle my clay
as I work and it is really easy to do with a plaster board. Plus when I
want my clay to be stiffer than what I have a plaster board helps dry out
the clay quickly.
Building your own plaster board is a good days work at least but it is well
worth the effort. The frame has to be extremely sturdy. I used scrap
pressure treated lumber from decking. I built a rectangle at the bottom and
the top from 2X6s. I then used 2 2X4's (making an L) for each corner to
form the legs. The bottom legs go all the way to the bottom of the bottom
rectangle but the top of the legs go minus ~3" from the top. I put a
rectangle of 5/8" pressure treated plywood in as the floor of the top
rectangle because that is what I had. It could have been 1/2". This is
simply cut to the size of the inside of the rectangle and set on top of the
legs. What I did at this point that is different than what I have seen is I
lined the sides of the frame for the plaster with 2 sheets of cardboard.
You want to be careful to cut these so that the do not come above the sides
of the lumber or it will be more difficult to nicely level the top once you
pour the plaster. The reason I did this is because plaster expands and it
will literally push your frame apart. Buy a cheap colander (metal type that
looks like a screen) to pass your plaster through to sprinkle onto the
water. This does 2 things. It takes out any lumps and it lets the plaster
go slow enough into the water that it doesn't clump.
This is a great site.
http://www.plastermaster.com/usg/plasterfundamentals.htm
It will tell you the ratio of water to plaster you want, temperature, etc.
I used more plaster to water than was recommended because I wanted a harder
plaster board. What is critical is that you don't stir the plaster until you
have all of it in the water and it has set the time recommended. I have
seen people mix as the add the plaster and this is a disaster. Unless you
are really really strong you will want to use a variable speed drill with a
paint mixer attachment (home depot has them). Go REALLY slow or you will
have plaster everywhere. I would cover the area with painters plastic (not
just the floors but up as well (put some chairs around the area and drape
the plastic up around them - you are making a minature plastic room to work in).
http://www.onlineconversion.com/volume.htm will help you figure out how much
water you want (find the cubic inches of the inside of the 'box' the plaster
will go in).
Example
1623.125 cubic inches =
7.027 gallons
2/3
4.7 gallons of water
56-54.5lbs of plaster
boobyagga@juno.com on fri 10 feb 06
carri,
id go with the concrete floor. ive never been a big fan of a wedging boa=
rd. never really liked them. my set up is a towel with a piece of thin r=
ug under it. i lay the rug down and put the towel on top of it...then se=
t a clay bucket on the opposite side of the towel to keep it from moving=
...and kneel on the other side and wedge away. really the rug is only fo=
r comfort on my knees. this works wonderfully for me and has never given=
me any problems like a wedging board. and its a heck of a lot cheaper. =
if i remember correctly...the current sax and amaco catalogues put a goo=
d wedging board at about $210....a towel will cost you 3 bucks and a pei=
ce of carpet you can probably get for 10. sounds a little better to me. =
but hey...whatever is your cup of tea. maybe i just havent discovered al=
l the uses of a wedging board...but they seem pretty one dimensional to =
me. id go with the cheaper alternative that serves the same function. =
jason
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