Michael McDowell on sun 12 mar 06
Dear listmembers,
Over the last couple of years I've been working on a line of cabinet
knobs. http://www.McDowellPottery.com/Cabinet_Knobs.htm I have
pretty well worked out the production details for the clay part of
the project. It's the joining of the knob to the threaded brass
insert that is giving me pause right now. Thus far I have been using
E6000 adhesive. I have liked the fact that it is somewhat
flexible even when fully cured. But I have had some instances of the
glue failing and am looking for alternatives.
The brass insert is inserted in a hole in the unglazed base of the
knob. When tightening the knob onto the cabinet door there is often
quite a bit of torque on the joint. Is there an adhesives expert out
there who can suggest my best options?
Michael McDowell
Whatcom County, WA
Michael@McDowellPottery.com
http://www.McDowellPottery.com
Cheryl Weickert on sun 12 mar 06
Michael, you can look at
http://www.thistothat.com/
they usually have a few different adhesives to chose from.
HTH,
Pinky
On Sun, 12 Mar 2006 13:38:33 -0800, Michael McDowell
wrote:
>Dear listmembers,
>
>Over the last couple of years I've been working on a line of cabinet
>knobs. http://www.McDowellPottery.com/Cabinet_Knobs.htm I have
>pretty well worked out the production details for the clay part of
>the project. It's the joining of the knob to the threaded brass
>insert that is giving me pause right now. Thus far I have been using
>E6000 adhesive. I have liked the fact that it is somewhat
>flexible even when fully cured. But I have had some instances of the
>glue failing and am looking for alternatives.
Crista Nelson on sun 12 mar 06
I have attached copper tubing to a few of my pieces of pottery in the past
with great success using a glue called amazing goop -plumbing contact adhesive
and sealant. bought at a local hardware store like lowes or home depot...
hope this helps... Good luck.. Crista
steve graber on sun 12 mar 06
"hard as nails" is available in home depot stores. it truly holds hard & long. i glued a cement statue to a brick pedistal outside that's been holding strong for 6 years now. no freezing, but we do get earthquakes here...
it's also available in the larger cauking tubes which you'll like for production.
i also use "hard as nails" for glueing strings to faces i sell. the adhesive holds well in sun exposure. years back i had trouble with glues that would let go at art shows once the pieces were in the sun for a while. ~ E6000 held up well in that application as well.
see ya
steve
Michael McDowell wrote:
Dear listmembers,
Over the last couple of years I've been working on a line of cabinet
knobs. http://www.McDowellPottery.com/Cabinet_Knobs.htm I have
pretty well worked out the production details for the clay part of
the project. It's the joining of the knob to the threaded brass
insert that is giving me pause right now. Thus far I have been using
E6000 adhesive. I have liked the fact that it is somewhat
flexible even when fully cured. But I have had some instances of the
glue failing and am looking for alternatives.
The brass insert is inserted in a hole in the unglazed base of the
knob. When tightening the knob onto the cabinet door there is often
quite a bit of torque on the joint. Is there an adhesives expert out
there who can suggest my best options?
Michael McDowell
Whatcom County, WA
Michael@McDowellPottery.com
http://www.McDowellPottery.com
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Bob Masta on mon 13 mar 06
I'd try JB Weld. It is a 2-part epoxy that is the best thing
I've ever found for structural applications like this. When set it is not
flexible, but has the property that engineers call "toughness",
strong but not brittle. Unfortunately, this stuff is so good that
since discovering it, I've never had any temptation to look at any other
products. So I can't compare with the suggestions others
have made.
Best regards,
Bob Masta
potsATdaqartaDOTcom
Sam or Mary Yancy on mon 13 mar 06
Why use Brass inserts, Just ust those Plastic inserts used for drywall screws and hangers. Then you only need to form a hole in the knob, unsert the plastic insert and provide the screw. Very inexpensive too - and will do the jog without a extra gluing step. Perhaops threaded brass inserts are overkill??? Sam in Daly City.
Michael McDowell wrote: Dear listmembers,
Over the last couple of years I've been working on a line of cabinet
knobs. http://www.McDowellPottery.com/Cabinet_Knobs.htm I have
pretty well worked out the production details for the clay part of
the project. It's the joining of the knob to the threaded brass
insert that is giving me pause right now. Thus far I have been using
E6000 adhesive. I have liked the fact that it is somewhat
flexible even when fully cured. But I have had some instances of the
glue failing and am looking for alternatives.
The brass insert is inserted in a hole in the unglazed base of the
knob. When tightening the knob onto the cabinet door there is often
quite a bit of torque on the joint. Is there an adhesives expert out
there who can suggest my best options?
Michael McDowell
Whatcom County, WA
Michael@McDowellPottery.com
http://www.McDowellPottery.com
______________________________________________________________________________
Send postings to clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
You may look at the archives for the list or change your subscription
settings from http://www.ceramics.org/clayart/
Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be reached at melpots@pclink.com.
William Melstrom on mon 13 mar 06
> Why use Brass inserts, Just ust those Plastic inserts used for drywall
> screws and hangers. Then you only need to form a hole in the knob, unsert
> the plastic insert and provide the screw. Very inexpensive too - and will
> do the jog without a extra gluing step. Perhaops threaded brass inserts
> are overkill??? Sam in Daly City.
This is really, really, REALLY good idea. I don't know why I never thought
of it. For those not familiar with plastic inserts, they expand when you
screw in a screw, and have tremendous strength. Make sure you use the
recommended screw size, or buy both anchors and screws in a kit. There are
two types, plastic plugs, which are straight and go in flush, and plastic
anchors which are tapered. The tapered ones have a lip that sticks outside
of the drilled hole -- this might help protect the cabinet surface.
William Melstrom
Lolli Cook on mon 13 mar 06
Hi michael
my experience for a great reliable adhesive for joining almost anything is PL Premium Construction caulking. it allows slight movement/jarring but is incredibly reliable.
I use this for all sorts of aplications in large props -ceramic-foam-wood-conctret-metals- and small applications as well
Laura Lea "Lollipots" Cook
604. 375.6509
www.lollipots.ca
From: Michael McDowell <michael@MCDOWELLPOTTERY.COM>
Reply-To: Clayart <CLAYART@LSV.CERAMICS.ORG>
To: CLAYART@LSV.CERAMICS.ORG
Subject: Adhesive for knob inserts?
Date: Sun, 12 Mar 2006 13:38:33 -0800
Dear listmembers,
Over the last couple of years I've been working on a line of cabinet
knobs. http://www.McDowellPottery.com/Cabinet_Knobs.htm I have
pretty well worked out the production details for the clay part of
the project. It's the joining of the knob to the threaded brass
insert that is giving me pause right now. Thus far I have been using
E6000 adhesive. I have liked the fact that it is somewhat
flexible even when fully cured. But I have had some instances of the
glue failing and am looking for alternatives.
The brass
insert is inserted in a hole in the unglazed base of the
knob. When tightening the knob onto the cabinet door there is often
quite a bit of torque on the joint. Is there an adhesives expert out
there who can suggest my best options?
Michael McDowell
Whatcom County, WA
Michael@McDowellPottery.com
http://www.McDowellPottery.com
______________________________________________________________________________
Send postings to clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
You may look at the archives for the list or change your subscription
settings from http://www.ceramics.org/clayart/
Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be reached at melpots@pclink.com.
Vince Pitelka on mon 13 mar 06
>> Why use Brass inserts, Just ust those Plastic inserts used for drywall
>> screws and hangers. Then you only need to form a hole in the knob, unsert
>> the plastic insert and provide the screw. Very inexpensive too - and will
>> do the jog without a extra gluing step. Perhaops threaded brass inserts
>> are overkill??? Sam in Daly City.
Sam -
Go look at the good ceramic cabinet knobs at Home Depot or Lowe's. They all
have the brass inserts. If there were a cheaper way to do it and still have
them perform well, I think that the people who supply to Home Depot and
Lowe's would have done it. For someone making cabinet knobs for their own
home, I think that those plastic inserts are a great suggestion, but Michael
is making thousands of very fine ceramic cabinet knobs to sell online, and I
think that it would demean his knobs to use a plastic insert. He needs to
use an insert mechanism that is true to the craftsmanship and quality of the
knob itself.
- Vince
Fredrick Paget on tue 14 mar 06
I think that if you are really into making thousands of these knobs
you should go to an industrial adhesive supplier and put the question
to them. One such is Miller Stephenson:
http://www.miller-stephenson.com/aero_007.htm. There are many more.
I used to be some what of an adhesive expert when I worked in new
product development in industry. I even knew how to mix up my own
from the base resins but that was twenty years ago and times change
and materials improve.
From my 20 year out of date knowledge I would say try an epoxy. Get a
formula with an easy 50-50 mix ratio and a very slow cure as those
are the strongest.You may want to use a mild baking temperature to
speed things up.
If you follow this advice your supplier will give you all the
information you need.
--
From Fred Paget,
Marin County, CA, USA
fredrick@well.com
http://homepage.mac.com/fredrick/FileSharing1.html
Charter Member Potters Council
Michael McDowell on wed 15 mar 06
Dear Clayart community,
Thank you for your helpful suggestions on this topic. I've got a
little J B Weld out in the shop so I'm going to experiment with that
first. I must admit that the suggestion to use plastic inserts
surprised me. I'm going to look into that more fully. Also, I'm
going to try and fine tune the depth of my hole so that tightning
the knob does not leave constant tension on the glue joint. There
will still be the torque that tightening the knob places on the glue
joint.
Once again thank you all for sharing...
Michael McDowell
Whatcom County, WA
Michael@McDowellPottery.com
http://www.McDowellPottery.com
Dannon Rhudy on wed 15 mar 06
I must agree with Vince on this issue. There are cheaper
ways to put inserts into the knobs, but Michael's line
is really a quality line of work, and I'm convinced that
people who want handmade work like that, won't be
charmed by plastic inserts, even if they work well. They
will want to have them not only work well, but LOOK
like they are what they are: handmade, elegant, quality.
Even if no one but the installer sees the fittings.
Michael, I use JB Weld for mine. No problems yet
that I know of; they do take a bit of time to set up, but
I just leave them upside down for a day. So far it has
worked for me.
regards
Dannon Rhudy
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