Lori on tue 14 mar 06
...two unrelated questions...
First, the press mold Q:
A potter I met at a festival awhile back explained a method of making a mold
for rectangular platters from wallboard. She said that she cuts out a
"picture frame," (in the form of a rectangle, from a piece of wallboard.
She uses a matt knife or a jigsaw to cut out the "frame" and then sets the
"frame" on top of another piece of wallboard. She rolls out a slab and lays
it across the frame, gently smoothing it down with a damp sponge on the
second piece of (unattached) wallboard to form the bottom of the platter.
She creates the rim of the platter by smoothing the edges of the slab onto
the "frame." My question...how does one get a clean cut using wallboard?
Isn't the plaster going to break off and contaminate the clay?
Second Q, re: liquid latex...
I just tried to remove the liquid latex I applied to a leatherhard bowl I
decorated with slip and sgraffito and it won't come off. Apparently I must
have used too thin a layer. Is there a way to rescue this bowl, or is it
history?
Thanks for any help or suggestions!
Lori (in Port Townsend, WA)
clennell on wed 15 mar 06
> First, the press mold Q:
> A potter I met at a festival awhile back explained a method of making a mold
> for rectangular platters from wallboard. She said that she cuts out a
> "picture frame," (in the form of a rectangle, from a piece of wallboard.
> She uses a matt knife or a jigsaw to cut out the "frame" and then sets the
> "frame" on top of another piece of wallboard. She rolls out a slab and lays
> it across the frame, gently smoothing it down with a damp sponge on the
> second piece of (unattached) wallboard to form the bottom of the platter.
> She creates the rim of the platter by smoothing the edges of the slab onto
> the "frame." My question...how does one get a clean cut using wallboard?
> Isn't the plaster going to break off and contaminate the clay?
>
>
> Thanks for any help or suggestions!
> Lori (in Port Townsend, WA)
Lori: don't you get the Red Green Show down there? the answer is cover the
edges of the plaster board with duct tape. We use small sheets of drywall to
dry our plates and trays on. all corners covered with duct tape.
If you can't find a man handsome, find him handy.- Red Green
cheers,
Tony
Tony and Sheila Clennell
Sour Cherry Pottery
4545 King Street
Beamsville, Ontario
CANADA L0R 1B1
http://www.sourcherrypottery.com
Noel Jensen on wed 15 mar 06
I'm not a latex user, so I can't speak to that. But, on the sheetrock
question, I use duct tape on the cut edges to preserve the sharpness of
the edge and prevent gypsum contamination.
Noel Jensen
noeljensen@comcast.net
Lori wrote:
>...two unrelated questions...
>
>First, the press mold Q:
>A potter I met at a festival awhile back explained a method of making a mold
>for rectangular platters from wallboard. She said that she cuts out a
>"picture frame," (in the form of a rectangle, from a piece of wallboard.
>She uses a matt knife or a jigsaw to cut out the "frame" and then sets the
>"frame" on top of another piece of wallboard. She rolls out a slab and lays
>it across the frame, gently smoothing it down with a damp sponge on the
>second piece of (unattached) wallboard to form the bottom of the platter.
>She creates the rim of the platter by smoothing the edges of the slab onto
>the "frame." My question...how does one get a clean cut using wallboard?
>Isn't the plaster going to break off and contaminate the clay?
>
>Second Q, re: liquid latex...
>I just tried to remove the liquid latex I applied to a leatherhard bowl I
>decorated with slip and sgraffito and it won't come off. Apparently I must
>have used too thin a layer. Is there a way to rescue this bowl, or is it
>history?
>
>Thanks for any help or suggestions!
>Lori (in Port Townsend, WA)
>
>______________________________________________________________________________
>Send postings to clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
>
>You may look at the archives for the list or change your subscription
>settings from http://www.ceramics.org/clayart/
>
>Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be reached at melpots@pclink.com.
>
>
>
Bonnie Staffel on thu 16 mar 06
I have found that blue board works very well. It is light, cuts easily and
two pieces can be sandwiched and glued to make a deeper form. It cuts with
a kitchen knife. Using this material, you can place the blue board mold on
another sheet of blue board if you want a complete mold. This system opens
up a lot of possibilities as they store well, are not heavy.
Regards,
Bonnie Staffel
http://webpages.charter.net/bstaffel/
DVD Throwing with Coils and Slabs
DVD Beginning Processes
Charter Member Potters Council
Debbie on thu 16 mar 06
Sounds great but what is blue board and where would one look for it?
Debbie
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Clayart [mailto:CLAYART@LSV.CERAMICS.ORG]On Behalf Of Bonnie
> Staffel
> Sent: Thursday, March 16, 2006 7:10 AM
> To: CLAYART@LSV.CERAMICS.ORG
> Subject: press molds and liquid latex
>
>
> I have found that blue board works very well. It is light, cuts
> easily and
> two pieces can be sandwiched and glued to make a deeper form. It
> cuts with
> a kitchen knife. Using this material, you can place the blue
> board mold on
> another sheet of blue board if you want a complete mold. This
> system opens
> up a lot of possibilities as they store well, are not heavy.
>
> Regards,
>
> Bonnie Staffel
> >
Bonnie Staffel on fri 17 mar 06
Debbie, Blue Board is used by the building industry as an insulating =
layer
for houses. Go to your local lumber yard and they can show you. It =
comes
in 4 X 8' sheets but is very light. I also think that it comes in =
several
thicknesses, but don't quote me on that. I have the 1" thick size. It =
is
like plastic foam but has a finer pore so the edges can be sharper. You =
can
also round the edges by rubbing with another piece of blue board or
sandpaper.
Hope this helps. I believe that a certain glue is required for this
material.
Bonnie Staffel
http://webpages.charter.net/bstaffel/
DVD Throwing with Coils and Slabs
DVD Beginning Processes
Charter Member Potters Council
Kathi LeSueur on fri 17 mar 06
Bonnie Staffel wrote:
>Debbie, Blue Board is used by the building industry as an insulating layer
>for houses. Go to your local lumber yard and they can show you. It comes
>in 4 X 8' sheets but is very light. I also think that it comes in several
>thicknesses, but don't quote me on that. I have the 1" thick size. It is
>like plastic foam but has a finer pore so the edges can be sharper. You can
>also round the edges by rubbing with another piece of blue board or
>sandpaper........
>
I use blue board for all of my slab forms. I can get it as thick as 3".
I cut it on the band saw. It gives me better control of the form. I sand
the edges with drywall sand paper. All of my forms are hump forms. I
think they give a better edge.
Kathi
>
>
>
>
Snail Scott on fri 17 mar 06
At 11:39 AM 3/17/2006 -0500, you wrote:
>Debbie, Blue Board is used by the building industry as an insulating layer
>for houses...I believe that a certain glue is required for this
>material.
This is quite handy stuff. The blue kind is a
Dow brand foam; a pink version is the same stuff
made by Owens-Corning. It comes in 1/2", 3/4",
1", and 2" thicknesses, in 4' x 8' sheets. Thicker
sheets are usually a special-order item.
Many glues will work, but many others will either
not bond well or will dissolve the stuff instead.
If the glue says OK for styrofoam, it'll work.
Liquid Nails seems to work, though not the clear
kind. Solvents will dissolve it. You can also
screw it together.
I like to cut and carve it with those cheap
snap-knives from the dollar store. A sawing motion
will give the cleanest cut. Beware - sanding makes
tiny particles that stick to everything by static
electricity.
-Snail
Gayle Bair on sat 18 mar 06
Hi Lori,
I had the same issues with pink bits and release.
I started using newspaper between the pink foam board and the clay.
For the part that slumps I sliced the paper into pie shape wedges
converging at the center. This allowed the clay to slump and provided
a good release at the rim.
My issue with the board is how to cut it and maintain an angle.
I finally gave up trying to hand cut a bevel.
See you at Port Gamble???
Gayle Bair
Bainbridge Island, WA
Tucson, AZ
www.claybair.com
-----Original Message-----
From: Clayart [mailto:CLAYART@LSV.CERAMICS.ORG] On Behalf Of Lori
Sent: Saturday, March 18, 2006 8:24 PM
To: CLAYART@LSV.CERAMICS.ORG
Subject: press molds and liquid latex
Thanks for all the responses to my query...I don't think we do have the "Red
Green Show" here in Washington, but I'm not a tv watcher so I don't really
know... I'm actually interested in using the wallboard for a mold because
I've tried the pink foamboard and found that it "sheds" tiny pink bits into
the slab and also doesn't release the slab very well. Have others found
ways around these two obstacles?
Lori
Froggy Bottoms Pottery
Port Townsend, WA
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Lori on sat 18 mar 06
Thanks for all the responses to my query...I don't think we do have the "Red
Green Show" here in Washington, but I'm not a tv watcher so I don't really
know... I'm actually interested in using the wallboard for a mold because
I've tried the pink foamboard and found that it "sheds" tiny pink bits into
the slab and also doesn't release the slab very well. Have others found
ways around these two obstacles?
Lori
Froggy Bottoms Pottery
Port Townsend, WA
lela martens on sun 19 mar 06
I'm actually interested in using the wallboard for a mold because
>I've tried the pink foamboard and found that it "sheds" tiny pink bits into
>the slab and also doesn't release the slab very well. Have others found
>ways around these two obstacles?
You could put a fabric barrier over the foamboard, between
it and the clay...cheesecloth, thin jersey,
some such.
Lela
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Bryan on sun 19 mar 06
> My issue with the board is how to cut it and maintain an angle.
> I finally gave up trying to hand cut a bevel.
> See you at Port Gamble???
>
I like the cut that I get with a knife blade ( no teeth) in a saber saw.
Bryan Johnson
Steve Slatin on sun 19 mar 06
Lori --KBTC, 10 and 10:30 pm, Mon through Thrs.
Key phrases --
"Duct tape! The handyman's secret weapon ..."
"Quando omni flunkus, moratati!"
and, of course, the Man's Prayer --
"I am a man. But I can change. If I have to.
I guess."
-- Steve Slatin
--- Lori wrote:
> Thanks for all the responses to my query...I
> don't think we do have the "Red
> Green Show" here in Washington,
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Linda Blossom on sun 19 mar 06
You can cover the foamboard with a layer of plaster.
You mix the plaster - enough for one coat and cover
it and then when it is firm enough, you can pour
another coat on it.
Linda
NY
I'm actually interested in using the wallboard for a
mold because
>I've tried the pink foamboard and found that it
"sheds" tiny pink bits into
>the slab and also doesn't release the slab very
well. Have others found
>ways around these two obstacles?
You could put a fabric barrier over the foamboard,
between
it and the clay...cheesecloth, thin jersey,
some such.
Lela
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et_MSNIS_Taglines
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Kathi LeSueur on sun 19 mar 06
> I've tried the pink foamboard and found that it "sheds" tiny pink bits
> intothe slab and also doesn't release the slab very well. Have others
> found
>
>> ways around these two obstacles?
>
>
>
I haven't had this problem with the pink board. However, I often use
cheese cloth between clay and a mold that doesn't absorb. It form
releases very easily.
Kathi
karen gringhuis on mon 20 mar 06
Lori -
The latex stuck on leatherhard - if you are NOT once
firing (or even if you are), why not bisque fire this
bowl and see what happens? You have nothing to lose.
( I know latex is supposed to be peeled off before
glaze firing.)
The wall board - note that it comes in varying
thicknesses. The heavier one stays flat & I use
remnants as drying boards.
Karen Gringhuis
KG Pottery
Box 607 Alfred NY 14802
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