Neil Travers on thu 16 mar 06
Hi all, any help would be well appreciated. I am finishing off a kiln I'm
building and need a cheap reliable recipe for a refractory material to go
over the brick skin, such as clay and saw dust. I'll be firing to around
1300 and the kiln has a hard brick interior wall nad soft outer with fiber
blanket sandwiched inbetween. Its a soda kiln. Maybe I dont need anything
else? I want it to be as effecient as possible as I'm firing with bottled gas.
cheers Neil
Neil Travers
Belgrave
Victoria
Australia
Paul Herman on fri 17 mar 06
Hello Neil,
I take it you want an insulation for the exterior (cold face) of your
kiln. I have used a homemade mix on the outside of kilns here, both
gas and woodfired. I use a material called diatomite for the
insulation. It's available in Reno as mechanic's "floor dry" grease
absorbent.
Formula by volume (adjust to taste):
Diatomite (granular, 4-16 mesh) 4
clay 1
portland cement 1
Add enough water to make a thick sticky mud and trowel it on. I like
it more than an inch thick. Some people spread the mud over chicken
wire to hold it all together. I'm sure you could use perlite,
vermiculite or sawdust (which would stink the first few firings) for
the insulation component. Outer insulation is important, especially
when you are trying to get those last cones down. Hard brick plus
propane equals big fuel bills. You got a trust fund?
Best wishes,
Paul Herman
Great Basin Pottery
Doyle, California US
http://greatbasinpottery.com
On Mar 15, 2006, at 11:40 PM, Neil Travers wrote:
> Hi all, any help would be well appreciated. I am finishing off a
> kiln I'm
> building and need a cheap reliable recipe for a refractory material
> to go
> over the brick skin, such as clay and saw dust. I'll be firing to
> around
> 1300 and the kiln has a hard brick interior wall nad soft outer
> with fiber
> blanket sandwiched inbetween. Its a soda kiln. Maybe I dont need
> anything
> else? I want it to be as effecient as possible as I'm firing with
> bottled gas.
>
> cheers Neil
> Neil Travers
> Belgrave
> Victoria
> Australia
>
Andy Misner on fri 17 mar 06
Hi Neil;
I'd reccomend that you buy your refractory premixed. You will get a better
finished product. Along with the ease of use, you will get the years of
experience that goes behind the castibles.
Andy
www.indfirebrick.com
On Thu, 16 Mar 2006 02:40:27 -0500, Neil Travers wrote:
>Hi all, any help would be well appreciated. I am finishing off a kiln I'm
>building and need a cheap reliable recipe for a refractory material to go
>over the brick skin, such as clay and saw dust. I'll be firing to around
>1300 and the kiln has a hard brick interior wall nad soft outer with fiber
>blanket sandwiched inbetween. Its a soda kiln. Maybe I dont need anything
>else? I want it to be as effecient as possible as I'm firing with bottled gas.
>
>cheers Neil
>Neil Travers
>Belgrave
>Victoria
>Australia
>
>______________________________________________________________________________
>Send postings to clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
>
>You may look at the archives for the list or change your subscription
>settings from http://www.ceramics.org/clayart/
>
>Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be reached at melpots@pclink.com.
Donald Burroughs on sat 18 mar 06
You could try following the receipe I was given by Robert Archambeau:
Firebrick soft body
Fireclay medium coarseness (not air floated) 100
Fine grog 75
Walnut shell 14-30 mesh (or equivalent filler) up to... 100
Ball clay enough to "glue" it all together
Feldspar and Flint to taste
Note: be sure to soak shell (filler) then mix to a stiff state
If using walnut shell do not fire in an enclosed area (room)!
Walnut shells contain naturally occurring arsenic and when
burned release the oil which contains this fatal chemical.
Don Burroughs
Neil Travers on sat 18 mar 06
Hi Andy, thanks , I'm a little cash strapped and I know other potters have
used there own recipes to finish off the outer of there kilns, I might
just use fire clay.
cheers Neil
On 18/03/06, Andy Misner wrote:
>
> Hi Neil;
>
> I'd reccomend that you buy your refractory premixed. You will get a bette=
r
> finished product. Along with the ease of use, you will get the years of
> experience that goes behind the castibles.
>
> Andy
> www.indfirebrick.com
>
> On Thu, 16 Mar 2006 02:40:27 -0500, Neil Travers wrote=
:
>
> >Hi all, any help would be well appreciated. I am finishing off a kiln I'=
m
> >building and need a cheap reliable recipe for a refractory material to g=
o
> >over the brick skin, such as clay and saw dust. I'll be firing to around
> >1300 and the kiln has a hard brick interior wall nad soft outer with
> fiber
> >blanket sandwiched inbetween. Its a soda kiln. Maybe I dont need anythin=
g
> >else? I want it to be as effecient as possible as I'm firing with bottle=
d
> gas.
> >
> >cheers Neil
> >Neil Travers
> >Belgrave
> >Victoria
> >Australia
> >
>
> >________________________________________________________________________=
______
> >Send postings to clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
> >
> >You may look at the archives for the list or change your subscription
> >settings from http://www.ceramics.org/clayart/
> >
> >Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be reached at
> melpots@pclink.com.
>
>
> _________________________________________________________________________=
_____
> Send postings to clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
>
> You may look at the archives for the list or change your subscription
> settings from http://www.ceramics.org/clayart/
>
> Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be reached at
> melpots@pclink.com.
>
John Britt on sat 18 mar 06
Neil,
I think I remember that a cover coat can be made of:
7 fine sand
1 fire clay
1 portland cement
(The sand keeps it from cracking as badly. )
Hope it helps,
John Britt
www.johnbrittpottery.com
Michael Wendt on sat 18 mar 06
The original poster said they have hard brick
inside, fiber, then soft brick outside. Before
spending any time adding more insulation, why
not fire the thing and test a section with ordinary
fiberglass bat style insulation?
Place it over enough area to see if it gets hot
enough to melt. I bet it won't. It's cheap, easy
to work with and if you stay below the melting
point, an excellent outer surface choice.
Please report if you try it how it works.
Regards,
Michael Wendt
Wendt Pottery
2729 Clearwater Ave
Lewiston, Idaho 83501
USA
wendtpot@lewiston.com
www.wendtpottery.com
Gary Navarre on mon 20 mar 06
Hay Crew,
On Sat, 18 Mar 2006 08:44:34 -0800, Michael Wendt wr=
ote:
>The original poster said they have hard brick
>inside, fiber, then soft brick outside. Before
>spending any time adding more insulation, why
>not fire the thing
Holy whuh, eh? After a couple trys at this kiln designing I've settled on a=
similar layering of 4.5-7" of hard brick, fiber, IFB, if cash allows. My
last kiln had a paste of my lag (fire clay, sand, chain saw'dust') over the
hard brick, fiber, lag, and IFB. Maybe 10' thick and at =B11300 I felt littl=
e
heat off the outside.
http://public.fotki.com/GindaUP/ca/kpap/hobagama_1986-90/
I might add a course of red brick for looks, and more insulation, but I
would say there is enough insulation to fire a load and see what happens.
Stay in there!
G in da U.P.
Neil Travers on mon 20 mar 06
Cheers all, Ive got some great Ideas to work with now and will post with
results. thanks again.
cheers Neil
On 19/03/06, Michael Wendt wrote:
>
> The original poster said they have hard brick
> inside, fiber, then soft brick outside. Before
> spending any time adding more insulation, why
> not fire the thing and test a section with ordinary
> fiberglass bat style insulation?
> Place it over enough area to see if it gets hot
> enough to melt. I bet it won't. It's cheap, easy
> to work with and if you stay below the melting
> point, an excellent outer surface choice.
> Please report if you try it how it works.
> Regards,
> Michael Wendt
> Wendt Pottery
> 2729 Clearwater Ave
> Lewiston, Idaho 83501
> USA
> wendtpot@lewiston.com
> www.wendtpottery.com
>
>
> _________________________________________________________________________=
_____
> Send postings to clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
>
> You may look at the archives for the list or change your subscription
> settings from http://www.ceramics.org/clayart/
>
> Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be reached at
> melpots@pclink.com.
>
Andy Misner on mon 20 mar 06
The only problem with fiberglass is, it has a temp rating of only 1000 degrees.
Andy
www.indfirebrick.com
On Sat, 18 Mar 2006 08:44:34 -0800, Michael Wendt wrote:
>The original poster said they have hard brick
>inside, fiber, then soft brick outside. Before
>spending any time adding more insulation, why
>not fire the thing and test a section with ordinary
>fiberglass bat style insulation?
>Place it over enough area to see if it gets hot
>enough to melt. I bet it won't. It's cheap, easy
>to work with and if you stay below the melting
>point, an excellent outer surface choice.
>Please report if you try it how it works.
>Regards,
>Michael Wendt
>Wendt Pottery
>2729 Clearwater Ave
>Lewiston, Idaho 83501
>USA
>wendtpot@lewiston.com
>www.wendtpottery.com
>
>______________________________________________________________________________
>Send postings to clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
>
>You may look at the archives for the list or change your subscription
>settings from http://www.ceramics.org/clayart/
>
>Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be reached at melpots@pclink.com.
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