Sally Lopez on sun 2 apr 06
(1) I'm looking for recommendations for the most opaque low fire commercial
underglaze to use on tiles. I do very fine (painting)on greenware, bisque
or even commercial tiles and the strokes are so fine I can't always use
three coats (trying to get one line on top of another). Also, when using
multiple coats, on subsequent coats, the brush seems to "pick up" some of
prevous coat. (2) Should I be firing in between? (3)Any suggestions on
either technique or glazes? (4)Is there a way to make a commercial glaze
more opaque by adding something to it? I know with all of your collective
wisdom, that you'll have some good suggestions for me.
Thanks, Sally
slopez@erols.com
Cynthia Bracker Sturm on sun 2 apr 06
The AMACO LUG series underglazes are pretty opaque. You can buy a set
of 2 oz jars to experiment with. Then, if they work for you, you can
buy them in pints. I also really like the velvets, but some of them
are not as opaque as others.
You don't need to fire in between, although if you are painting on
greenware, you can bisque them and then if you're not happy with the
coverage after it comes out of the kiln, you can apply another coat
prior to putting on your clear glaze. Zircopax or Superpax will make a
glaze more opaque, but I've never tried adding it to an already mixed
up glaze. Not sure how that would work.
The other thing you might try is using one of those needle tipped
bottles to do the really fine lines. The line they leave behind is
much thicker than any brush application I've ever been able to manage.
Cindy
On Apr 2, 2006, at 12:43 PM, Sally Lopez wrote:
> (1) I'm looking for recommendations for the most opaque low fire
> commercial
> underglaze to use on tiles. I do very fine (painting)on greenware,
> bisque
> or even commercial tiles and the strokes are so fine I can't always
> use
> three coats (trying to get one line on top of another). Also, when
> using
> multiple coats, on subsequent coats, the brush seems to "pick up" some
> of
> prevous coat. (2) Should I be firing in between? (3)Any suggestions
> on
> either technique or glazes? (4)Is there a way to make a commercial
> glaze
> more opaque by adding something to it? I know with all of your
> collective
> wisdom, that you'll have some good suggestions for me.
>
> Thanks, Sally
> slopez@erols.com
>
> _______________________________________________________________________
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>
Eleanora Eden on tue 4 apr 06
Hi Sally,
I don't think it is the type of underglaze as much as the delivery system.
I think you might be very pleased with the control and result of using small
plastic squeeze bottles.
Instead of a brush stroke you a laying down a bead. Almost anything is
opaque when applied that way.
If you are interested get back to me and I'll send you particulars on the kind
we got in large quantities.....I organized a large group buy awhile back and
I still have plenty.
There are several good metal tips you can apply to the plastic tip for best
control.
Eleanora
>(1) I'm looking for recommendations for the most opaque low fire commercial
>underglaze to use on tiles. I do very fine (painting)on greenware, bisque
>or even commercial tiles and the strokes are so fine I can't always use
>three coats (trying to get one line on top of another). Also, when using
>multiple coats, on subsequent coats, the brush seems to "pick up" some of
>prevous coat. (2) Should I be firing in between? (3)Any suggestions on
>either technique or glazes? (4)Is there a way to make a commercial glaze
>more opaque by adding something to it? I know with all of your collective
>wisdom, that you'll have some good suggestions for me.
>
>Thanks, Sally
>slopez@erols.com
>
>______________________________________________________________________________
>Send postings to clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
>
>You may look at the archives for the list or change your subscription
>settings from http://www.ceramics.org/clayart/
>
>Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be reached at melpots@pclink.com.
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