Susan P on thu 4 may 06
I must confess that in my short tenure as a Junior High Art teacher that I
was relied solely on the electronic controller. My college experience with
cones was limited. However, I am trying to mend my evil ways - particularly
as read you all talk about "work" - time and heat....?? So... the notes ar=
e
on the photo on this site but I will put them a bit less cryptically.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/32686158@N00/
This baby kiln (8: wide x 6: deep interior) is brand new. Finished its
first test firing to 020. (Did not have that cone). The kiln was empty for
these as suggested by the manufacturer. While the kiln was still a bit warm=
,
say about 200 degrees F., I placed the 05 large, self-supporting cone in th=
e
bottom of the kiln atop a bit of kiln shelving. The first ramp rate was 275
degrees per hour to 350 degrees [did this because kiln was warm, I know,
impatience is not a good trait). The second ramp rate was set for 250
degrees per hour up to 1900 degrees.
Total time was 6 hours and 30 minutes.
I believe that the cone should be arced over - perhaps getting close to
kissing the shelf, but this little guy looks like he is really relaxed or
had a melt-down!
I appreciate all the support and help that you all are. I am learning so,
very much!
Susan near Seattle
Arnold Howard on fri 5 may 06
Susan, does the thermocouple (temperature sensor)
extend into the firing chamber by the recommended
distance? If it has been pushed out, the kiln will
get too hot.
There are several ways to adjust the digital
controller so it shuts off at the correct temperature
for the cone you are firing:
1) Cone Offset: With this setting you can raise or
lower the shutoff temperature of a particular cone in
Cone-Fire mode. It has no effect on the other cones.
2) Thermocouple Offset: This setting raises or lowers
the shutoff temperature of all firings in both
Cone-Fire and Ramp-Hold mode.
3) Instead of using the above adjustments, fire to a
different cone number or add hold time. For instance,
if a cone almost bent to maturity but not quite, the
next time you could add 10 minutes of hold time. Or
in your case, you could fire to the next cooler cone
number.
4) Use Ramp-Hold mode instead of Cone-Fire. Once you
have programmed a firing schedule for a particular
cone, you can easily change the shutoff temperature
by as many degrees as you want.
Sincerely,
Arnold Howard
Paragon Industries, L.P., Mesquite, Texas USA
ahoward@paragonweb.com / www.paragonweb.com
----- Original Message -----
From: "Susan P"
This baby kiln (8: wide x 6: deep interior) is
brand new. Finished its
first test firing to 020. (Did not have that cone).
The kiln was empty for
these as suggested by the manufacturer. While the
kiln was still a bit warm,
say about 200 degrees F., I placed the 05 large,
self-supporting cone in the
bottom of the kiln atop a bit of kiln shelving. The
first ramp rate was 275
degrees per hour to 350 degrees [did this because
kiln was warm, I know,
impatience is not a good trait). The second ramp rate
was set for 250
degrees per hour up to 1900 degrees.
Total time was 6 hours and 30 minutes.
I believe that the cone should be arced over -
perhaps getting close to
kissing the shelf, but this little guy looks like he
is really relaxed or
had a melt-down!
Susan P on sat 6 may 06
Thank you. Did you see the photo? Am I right in thinking that the very
slumped, on the ground cone is over temperature?
Susan
On 5/6/06, Bonnie Staffel wrote:
>
> Susan, Did you watch the cone as the firing temperature you wanted go
> over?
> That is the principle for using cones. The cones are to be your goal and
> you watch them and turn the kiln off when they are at the bending point
> you
> find your glazes work best. Evidently you relied on another means to shu=
t
> off your kiln, right? Controller, pyrometer??? A kiln sitter is more
> reliable than either than those two, but using three points to help, the
> cone inside the kiln on the shelf is the final arbiter. The pyrometer
> only
> tells you heat rise and gives you a timeline when you should start
> watching
> the kiln closely. The kiln sitter is pretty good if there is no
> mechanical
> problem, so you can use this for an overfire guard by using the right con=
e
> numbers. Usually the kiln sitter cone is one higher than the firing cone=
.
> Also you should be using three cones on each shelf. The first is one con=
e
> less than your firing temperature, middle one is right on, and the third
> cone one number higher so that you will know if you kiln overfired. But
> in
> watching for shut of time, pay attention to the middle cone and place it
> within sight distance of your peep hole.
>
> It is good to have a clear path to the back if this is an electric kiln s=
o
> that the electric wire shows glowing behind the cone, other wise you will
> have to devise your own way of seeing it at top temperature. Other
> methods
> have been discussed on this forum.
>
> Bonnie Staffel
>
> http://webpages.charter.net/bstaffel/
> DVD Throwing with Coils and Slabs
> DVD Beginning Processes
> Charter Member Potters Council
>
>
> _________________________________________________________________________=
_____
> Send postings to clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
>
> You may look at the archives for the list or change your subscription
> settings from http://www.ceramics.org/clayart/
>
> Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be reached at
> melpots@pclink.com.
>
Bonnie Staffel on sat 6 may 06
Susan, Did you watch the cone as the firing temperature you wanted go =
over?
That is the principle for using cones. The cones are to be your goal =
and
you watch them and turn the kiln off when they are at the bending point =
you
find your glazes work best. Evidently you relied on another means to =
shut
off your kiln, right? Controller, pyrometer??? A kiln sitter is more
reliable than either than those two, but using three points to help, the
cone inside the kiln on the shelf is the final arbiter. The pyrometer =
only
tells you heat rise and gives you a timeline when you should start =
watching
the kiln closely. The kiln sitter is pretty good if there is no =
mechanical
problem, so you can use this for an overfire guard by using the right =
cone
numbers. Usually the kiln sitter cone is one higher than the firing =
cone.
Also you should be using three cones on each shelf. The first is one =
cone
less than your firing temperature, middle one is right on, and the third
cone one number higher so that you will know if you kiln overfired. But =
in
watching for shut of time, pay attention to the middle cone and place it
within sight distance of your peep hole. =20
It is good to have a clear path to the back if this is an electric kiln =
so
that the electric wire shows glowing behind the cone, other wise you =
will
have to devise your own way of seeing it at top temperature. Other =
methods
have been discussed on this forum.
Bonnie Staffel
http://webpages.charter.net/bstaffel/
DVD Throwing with Coils and Slabs
DVD Beginning Processes
Charter Member Potters Council
Arnold Howard on mon 8 may 06
When fired to maturity, the tip of the
self-supporting cone should be even with the top of
the cone's base. I used to think the tip of a
correctly fired cone just barely touched the shelf.
But someone at Orton corrected me, so I changed the
photos in Paragon's instruction manuals.
The base of a self-supporting cone looks like a small
pyramid. The tip of the cone should be even with the
top of that base.
Nevertheless, don't worry if the cone tip is slightly
higher or lower than the ideal. The difference is
only a few degrees of temperature.
Sincerely,
Arnold Howard
Paragon Industries, L.P., Mesquite, Texas USA
ahoward@paragonweb.com / www.paragonweb.com
----- Original Message -----
From: "Susan P"
Am I right in thinking that the very
slumped, on the ground cone is over temperature?
Ron Roy on tue 9 may 06
Hi Arnold,
Just a different slant on this.
To me cone 6 halfway down is my end temperature - because the cone is
moving "slow" till then and moving fast after that. So I feel I have the
best chance of getting the same heat work each time by doing it that way.
Important if you are living on the edge with a glaze that wants to run or
some layered glazes for instance.
What Orton is saying is - tip level with the base (sounds like tip almost
touching the shelf? is when the temperature they say it indicates is
reached. The problem is - if the tip is touching - you could have overfired
quite a bit before the arc in the cone deforms - so you don't know how far
over you went.
I will adjust my glazes to fire at whatever cone is half down - and knowing
how to use calculation helps make those glaze adjustments.
RR
>When fired to maturity, the tip of the
>self-supporting cone should be even with the top of
>the cone's base. I used to think the tip of a
>correctly fired cone just barely touched the shelf.
>But someone at Orton corrected me, so I changed the
>photos in Paragon's instruction manuals.
>
>The base of a self-supporting cone looks like a small
>pyramid. The tip of the cone should be even with the
>top of that base.
>
>Nevertheless, don't worry if the cone tip is slightly
>higher or lower than the ideal. The difference is
>only a few degrees of temperature.
>
>Sincerely,
>
>Arnold Howard
Ron Roy
RR#4
15084 Little Lake Road
Brighton, Ontario
Canada
K0K 1H0
Susan P on tue 9 may 06
Mine was collapsed - like a dead, long-necked dinosaur.
On 5/8/06, Arnold Howard wrote:
>
> When fired to maturity, the tip of the
> self-supporting cone should be even with the top of
> the cone's base. I used to think the tip of a
> correctly fired cone just barely touched the shelf.
> But someone at Orton corrected me, so I changed the
> photos in Paragon's instruction manuals.
>
> The base of a self-supporting cone looks like a small
> pyramid. The tip of the cone should be even with the
> top of that base.
>
> Nevertheless, don't worry if the cone tip is slightly
> higher or lower than the ideal. The difference is
> only a few degrees of temperature.
>
> Sincerely,
>
> Arnold Howard
> Paragon Industries, L.P., Mesquite, Texas USA
> ahoward@paragonweb.com / www.paragonweb.com
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Susan P"
> Am I right in thinking that the very
> slumped, on the ground cone is over temperature?
>
>
> _________________________________________________________________________=
_____
> Send postings to clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
>
> You may look at the archives for the list or change your subscription
> settings from http://www.ceramics.org/clayart/
>
> Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be reached at
> melpots@pclink.com.
>
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