Neil Travers on thu 4 may 06
Hi all, I'm getting nearer to my first firing of the soda kiln I've been
building over the last year, very excited. I am going to single fire my work
to try to save on fuel and to try and kep it simple. I have never done this
before, I realise that the intial stage is slow much like a bisque. My
questions, I guess relate to the process of glazing raw work (without a
spraygun). Does the glaze need to be thicker than for bisque? Will the ware
delaminate, break down, break. Should I glaze bone dry or just past leather
hard. If anyone could be of assistance and share there experience it would
be well appreciated. Thanks all in anticipation.
Neil Travers
Belgrave,
Victoria,
Australia.
JOYCE LEE on fri 5 may 06
ok
----- Original Message -----
From: "Neil Travers"
To:
Sent: Thursday, May 04, 2006 8:52 PM
Subject: Once firing/raw glazing advice hints Pleease
> Hi all, I'm getting nearer to my first firing of the soda kiln I've been
> building over the last year, very excited. I am going to single fire my
work
> to try to save on fuel and to try and kep it simple. I have never done
this
> before, I realise that the intial stage is slow much like a bisque. My
> questions, I guess relate to the process of glazing raw work (without a
> spraygun). Does the glaze need to be thicker than for bisque? Will the
ware
> delaminate, break down, break. Should I glaze bone dry or just past
leather
> hard. If anyone could be of assistance and share there experience it would
> be well appreciated. Thanks all in anticipation.
> Neil Travers
> Belgrave,
> Victoria,
> Australia.
>
>
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Elizabeth Priddy on fri 5 may 06
Please look to the archives re Richard Aerni. There
is a lot of good information regarding raw firing
there.
You have to make your work suitable to raw glazing.
You can't just make the exact same forms with the
thickness and details suitable for bisque then glaze
firing and expect it to work raw. It might, depending
on how you work to begin with, but it might not.
Older pottery in NC was a bit thick. And I mean
older, not jugtown old. The thicker forms held up to
raw glazing on the interiors better.
I have found that flat things work beautifully raw
glazed. Also, that brush application is very good if
you are fast and can cover large area quickly,
otherwise, dipping gets all the shock in one swoop and
sometimes is better for that reason.
The thickness of your glaze will depend largely on the
thickness of your pot.
Unfortunately, this is one for testing. So you should
make some forms and try all the various ways. Keep a
thumbtack next to your wheel and keep the walls at
least that thick and remeber clay is cheap so the
thicker ware is made up for in the gas.
But a lot of old NC pottery got around this with wood
and salt firing so that the glaze is deposited as
atmosphere rather than actual glaze. And those kils
were huge, so they were once fired, you just do as you
said and candle overnight with truly dry forms. The
making process to fill a wood kiln takes so long that
very few pieces were rushed into the kiln, like we
tend to do today.
For raw glazing in particular, the past is probably
the best teacher, not modern studio potters. There
are so many factors that current potters rely on, like
ac, humidity controlled work areas, bisque-ing,
allthings that were not part of the clay tradition 150
years ago.
I hope this helped you begin your research.
And good luck with it!
E
Elizabeth Priddy
Beaufort, NC - USA
http://www.elizabethpriddy.com
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