search  current discussion  categories  glazes - ash 

ash and oxide combos

updated wed 17 may 06

 

Pat Southwood on mon 8 may 06


Hi,
I have been experimenting with a thick wash of 50/50 reed ash and yellow =
ochre iron oxide. I had a distant memory of reading that it was good.
At 1260 in oxidisation its quite nice, matte dark brown where thin, a =
lively reddy brown where its just right and goldy coloured small =
crystals where its thick. A good honest glaze. I think it would also =
look good on sculpture.
Which makes me wonder if anyone has worked their way through the oxides =
with ash?
If not I will.
Pat=20
pat@southwood4.fsnet.co.uk

brian on wed 10 may 06


On 5/9/06, Pat Southwood wrote:
> I have been experimenting with a thick wash of 50/50 reed ash and
>yellow ochre iron oxide. .
> Which makes me wonder if anyone has worked their way through the
>oxides with ash?

Pat
This is not answering your question directly but there might be
interest in the following which is contained in an article I wrote
sometime in the eighties...

>Pottery Quarterly 1963, Vol 8, No 29, six and sixpence, page 20
>....Bryan Newman wrote:
>
>"I get a lot of variation from the simple recipe of:45 wood ash, 55
>ball clay, plus colouring oxides. This was at 1300oC with reduction
>and by adding red iron oxide I produced a lovely velvety red brown.
>I got a lighter ochre colour by taking out the red iron oxide and
>adding 20 tin oxide."
>
>* I "rounded off" the recipe to half and half (ie 50 wood ash/50
>China clay) and still use it as a dry textured engobe all these
>years later at 1260oC in oxidisation it usually results in a very
>dry surface and can look very lively when oxides and stains are
>added to it.

there is another article on my web sitethat refers to the use of
50/50 woodash surfaces that might be of interest
see some possible sculptural and decorative surfaces.
http://www.gartside.info/woodashchart.htm

Brian


--

Brian Gartside
main site http://www.gartside.info
sales/store http://gartsidesignz.com
Pukekohe, New Zealand

claybair on sat 13 may 06


So... is Tea Dust not food safe?

Gayle Bair
Bainbridge Island, WA
Tucson, AZ
http://claybair.com

-----Original Message-----
From: Gary Navarre
Hi Pat, sounds like Leach's Tea Dust (p.170 A Potters Book). I've had good
results with 40 feldspar, 40 ash, 20 ball clay and a few spoons of oxide in
a 2lb. plastic honey jar. Slathered on and covered with the clear base for
functional pieces.

G in da U.P.

--
No virus found in this outgoing message.
Checked by AVG Free Edition.
Version: 7.1.392 / Virus Database: 268.5.6/338 - Release Date: 5/12/2006

Gary Navarre on sat 13 may 06


Hi Pat, sounds like Leach's Tea Dust (p.170 A Potters Book). I've had good
results with 40 feldspar, 40 ash, 20 ball clay and a few spoons of oxide in
a 2lb. plastic honey jar. Slathered on and covered with the clear base for
functional pieces.

G in da U.P.

Gary Navarre on tue 16 may 06


On Sat, 13 May 2006 21:56:27 -0700, claybair wrote:

>So... is Tea Dust not food safe?
>
>Gayle Bair
>Bainbridge Island, WA
>Tucson, AZ
>http://claybair.com
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: Gary Navarre
>Hi Pat, sounds like Leach's Tea Dust (p.170 A Potters Book). I've had good
>results with 40 feldspar, 40 ash, 20 ball clay and a few spoons of oxide in
>a 2lb. plastic honey jar. Slathered on and covered with the clear base for
>functional pieces.
>
>G in da U.P.

Leach Tea Dust... I don't know. Why should it be if fired hot enough? I
doubt if my (Bouverie Slip-glaze) variation is toxic when fired past ^9 to
^12. As I recall my cups and bowls had a clearer liner, sometimes a Mather
Clear with some ash, but not limited to that. I haven't had any law suits or
made myself sick from using my stuff that I know about. I did have a test
for lead last month and Doc said it was 3 on whatever that scale is, which
is about normal for someone my age.

Guess I'll be havin to get to work on the kiln to test my therories further,
stay in there!

G in da U.P.
http://public.fotki.con/GindaUP/ (lots of new pictures)