pdp1@EARTHLINK.NET on tue 9 may 06
Hi Dukkie,
If you telephone, and talk with, places listed in
the Telephone Directory Yellow Pages under
headings of "Crane" or "Erectors" or "Rigging" or
other posssible headings...and or find out who
gets used for setting Air Conditioning Units on
Commercail Building's roofs...who various Boat
Yards might call when they need a Boat hoisted...
Those who do this kind of Work would have all the
routine heavy slings and kickers and skids and so
on for lifting something like a large, potentially
fragile Kiln...
You do not want a sling which will 'pinch' the
Kiln at it's base or on the sides of it.
If you can supply them with the weight ( call the
Manufacturer if in doubt, ) and the foot-print
dimensions of the Kiln, it will help the quality
of the conversation and show you are prepared,
and, to let them know at the get-go, how far a
'reach' horizontally, and how high vertically, the
Kiln will need to be hoisted, they will know
instantly what Crane or Boom lift or what would
likely fit the bill in order to give you some sort
of Ball-Park idea of the probable charges.
If your Kiln is on legs, and if it has a steel
frame, you c-o-u-l-d make up two lengths of 4 x 6
so the ends stick out about a foot and a half say,
and, seperate these in a parelell way with some 2
x 4s nailed well onto them to keep them paralell
and this, when set between the legs, would be the
grasps for a four point sling...but ask them what
they want, and how they want it.
Offer to send them j-pegs of the Kiln for that
matter, so they can see the situation with it's
form and so on...
This kind of work tends to be costly, and many
charge by-the-hour from when they leave the Barn,
to when they get back....with other charges
possibly incurred in addition...
Good luck...!
Phil
Las Vegas
> >From: Dukkie
> >
> >I'm trying to figure out how to move my Bailey
downdraft gas kiln into the
> >new studio.
> >
> >The brown and tan kiln is marked as Model #:FL
Brick 24; Serial #:3444.
> >Which probably stands for "front load, all
brick/no fiber, 24 cf stackable
> >space". The exterior measure at 76.5"h x 67"w x
64"d plus burners, blowers
> >and pipes. I purchased it from the original
owner who lived in Northern
> >Iowa.
> >
> >Previously I have been able to move the kiln by
securing the interior
> >bricks with boxes, then using a pallet jack to
shift the kiln to the
> >exterior of a building and then using a XL
forklift to move it into the
> >moving truck. (Reverse order to unload.)
> >
> >I'm building a new studio approx. 24 x 30 and
dug into the side of the
> >hill. It will be right next to my house with
the minimum 10 ft distance
> >required by city ordinance. The rest of the
land is covered by a dense
> >growth of 50+ ft oak trees and undergrowth. The
entrance to the studio is
> >at the bottom of the hill and the street access
is at the top. No forklift
> >driver is their right mind would want to drive
the kiln down the hill
> >grade.
> >
> >In the process of getting the land cleared to
build the studio, the tree
> >removers used a crane to pluck three of the 50+
ft oaks like dandy lions.
> >So I brain stormed that I could hire a crane to
lift the kiln up and over
> >the top of the studio to the cement pad to be
built at the entrance. From
> >there I could use a pallet jack to shift the
kiln into the studio for
> >placement.
> >
> >So now how do I secure the kiln to the crane?
> >Do I build a pallet or a box?
> >How do I build them to be strong enough to not
be crushed by the "lifting
> >up" of the crane?
> >Where in the yellow pages does one look for
"crate/pallet builder for
> >gigantic objects" ?
> >What I'm I not thinking of?
> >Obviously I'm having some insomnia over this.
Please help. Thank you.
> >Dukkie Bishop
Dukkie on tue 9 may 06
I'm trying to figure out how to move my Bailey downdraft gas kiln into the
new studio.
The brown and tan kiln is marked as Model #:FL Brick 24; Serial #:3444.
Which probably stands for "front load, all brick/no fiber, 24 cf stackable
space". The exterior measure at 76.5"h x 67"w x 64"d plus burners, blowers
and pipes. I purchased it from the original owner who lived in Northern
Iowa.
Previously I have been able to move the kiln by securing the interior
bricks with boxes, then using a pallet jack to shift the kiln to the
exterior of a building and then using a XL forklift to move it into the
moving truck. (Reverse order to unload.)
I'm building a new studio approx. 24 x 30 and dug into the side of the
hill. It will be right next to my house with the minimum 10 ft distance
required by city ordinance. The rest of the land is covered by a dense
growth of 50+ ft oak trees and undergrowth. The entrance to the studio is
at the bottom of the hill and the street access is at the top. No forklift
driver is their right mind would want to drive the kiln down the hill
grade.
In the process of getting the land cleared to build the studio, the tree
removers used a crane to pluck three of the 50+ ft oaks like dandy lions.
So I brain stormed that I could hire a crane to lift the kiln up and over
the top of the studio to the cement pad to be built at the entrance. From
there I could use a pallet jack to shift the kiln into the studio for
placement.
So now how do I secure the kiln to the crane?
Do I build a pallet or a box?
How do I build them to be strong enough to not be crushed by the "lifting
up" of the crane?
Where in the yellow pages does one look for "crate/pallet builder for
gigantic objects" ?
What I'm I not thinking of?
Obviously I'm having some insomnia over this. Please help. Thank you.
Dukkie Bishop
William & Susan Schran User on tue 9 may 06
On 5/9/06 12:22 PM, "Dukkie" wrote:
> So now how do I secure the kiln to the crane?
> Do I build a pallet or a box?
> How do I build them to be strong enough to not be crushed by the "lifting
> up" of the crane?
> Where in the yellow pages does one look for "crate/pallet builder for
> gigantic objects" ?
> What I'm I not thinking of?
> Obviously I'm having some insomnia over this. Please help.
My first call would be to Bailey's and ask if they have any recommendations
for the proper way to hoist the kiln.
I'd also suggest you contact a rigging company.
When we had our Geil kiln (also 24 cu. ft.) unloaded from the truck,
we had a rigging company do it because the kiln had to be hoisted over the
brick wall of the building, and then the roof put on after the kiln was
installed.
A rigging company has the expertise to move a heavy object, and will assume
the liability for damage.
It'll cost ya, but you'll also get some sleep.
-- William "Bill" Schran
Fredericksburg, Virginia
wschran@cox.net
wschran@nvcc.edu
Karsten Ewald on tue 9 may 06
Dukkie,
Holy shit! Yes, definite problem. Chances are that the exisiting steel
and or iron support around your baily kiln should support enough weight to
have a crane lift it up and over to the concrete pad with nylon straps.
However, this is new to me...and i am curious to see it done. For christs
sake, they move entire houses all the time, so i really believe it should be
no problem. Most industrial pallets will easily support at least a ton, but
i think your kiln frame is sturdy enough to take the weight.
To ensure the integrity of the existing kiln frame, it might be good to
build a 2x4 or 2x6 frame around it first ( fit very snuggly against the
existing framework). It wouldn't suprise me that some savy crane operators
would know what to do, so maybe you can talk to them initially. But
whatever, let me in the process...a learning experience for sure, and i
will help how ever i can.
On another note...Your insurance lady never contacted me about repairing
your electric kiln. I have the estimates and am awaiting further
instructions.
Me busy getting ready for my first major art/craft fair...Art in the
Park....scared shittless and silly to think i'll be ready in a month. ya
gotta love clay! Love you and steven
Karsten
>From: Dukkie
>Reply-To: Clayart
>To: CLAYART@LSV.CERAMICS.ORG
>Subject: Moving a Bailey Kiln
>Date: Tue, 9 May 2006 12:22:33 -0400
>
>I'm trying to figure out how to move my Bailey downdraft gas kiln into the
>new studio.
>
>The brown and tan kiln is marked as Model #:FL Brick 24; Serial #:3444.
>Which probably stands for "front load, all brick/no fiber, 24 cf stackable
>space". The exterior measure at 76.5"h x 67"w x 64"d plus burners, blowers
>and pipes. I purchased it from the original owner who lived in Northern
>Iowa.
>
>Previously I have been able to move the kiln by securing the interior
>bricks with boxes, then using a pallet jack to shift the kiln to the
>exterior of a building and then using a XL forklift to move it into the
>moving truck. (Reverse order to unload.)
>
>I'm building a new studio approx. 24 x 30 and dug into the side of the
>hill. It will be right next to my house with the minimum 10 ft distance
>required by city ordinance. The rest of the land is covered by a dense
>growth of 50+ ft oak trees and undergrowth. The entrance to the studio is
>at the bottom of the hill and the street access is at the top. No forklift
>driver is their right mind would want to drive the kiln down the hill
>grade.
>
>In the process of getting the land cleared to build the studio, the tree
>removers used a crane to pluck three of the 50+ ft oaks like dandy lions.
>So I brain stormed that I could hire a crane to lift the kiln up and over
>the top of the studio to the cement pad to be built at the entrance. From
>there I could use a pallet jack to shift the kiln into the studio for
>placement.
>
>So now how do I secure the kiln to the crane?
>Do I build a pallet or a box?
>How do I build them to be strong enough to not be crushed by the "lifting
>up" of the crane?
>Where in the yellow pages does one look for "crate/pallet builder for
>gigantic objects" ?
>What I'm I not thinking of?
>Obviously I'm having some insomnia over this. Please help. Thank you.
>Dukkie Bishop
>
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