Fredrick Paget on fri 19 may 06
>Has anyone found a successful wire stilt that will work with plates,
>etc?, at Cone 10 Redux temps.
>
>Thanks,
>
>Dan Saultman
I just recently made some special plate stilts to use at cone 6 by
embedding Kanthal wire in a press molded clay "spider" of Laguna
Calico cone 6 clay and they work fine.
I think you can make them with cone 10 clay and pieces of a cut up
kiln sitter rod. That long rod inside the sitter stays stiff at
higher than cone 10. Probably you need to grind down the diameter at
the point end of the pieces.
There are alloys called Hastalloy that will take these temperatures.
I do not know what the kiln sitter rod is made of but I suspect it is
something similar.
--
From Fred Paget,
Marin County, CA, USA
fredrick@well.com
Charter Member Potters Council
Dan Saultman on fri 19 may 06
Has anyone found a successful wire stilt that will work with plates,
etc?, at Cone 10 Redux temps.
Thanks,
Dan Saultman
Dan Saultman
Detroit
http://www.saultman.com
Crista Nelson on sat 20 may 06
In a message dated 5/19/2006 11:03:46 P.M. Central Daylight Time,
design@SAULTMAN.COM writes:
Has anyone found a successful wire stilt that will work with plates,
etc?, at Cone 10 Redux temps.
Thanks,
Dan Saultman
Have you tried making stilts out of bisque?? it is possible and does work,
but very tedious.., Crista
Linda Blossom on sat 20 may 06
This was something that I worked on - no wire guage
would stand up to high temps. John Calver makes
clay stitlts - a thick coil that is cut to a point
at the end - sort of like sharpening a pencil wth a
knife.
Linda
Ithaca, NY
Subject: Stilts for Cone 10
Has anyone found a successful wire stilt that will
work with plates,
etc?, at Cone 10 Redux temps.
Thanks,
Dan Saultman
Ivor and Olive Lewis on sat 20 may 06
Dear Dan Saultman,
Most common metals loose their compressive strength when heated to 1300 =
deg Celsius, that is,if they don't melt first. They also oxidise, so =
even if you are going to reduce it would be difficult to ensure the =
oxide was converted back to metal. Even if it did revert back the =
mechanical integrity of the metals will have been compromised. 18/8 or =
25/20 type Chrome Nickel ferrous alloys might work but if an oxide forms =
it will discolour the glazes. I would suggest Stellite but Cobalt is =
involved so you would get blue spots. You might find Wall Colmonoy Inc =
in you local Yellow Page directory. They might be able to provide you =
with some light gauge heat resistant Welding rod to try out.
What is wrong with standard Porcelain Stilts and Spurs. Have you tried =
these?
I wonder if Phil in El Vee has thought of making WC spurs ? ? ?
=20
Brian K Fistler on sat 20 may 06
On Fri, 2006-05-19 at 21:29 -0700, Fredrick Paget wrote:
> >Has anyone found a successful wire stilt that will work with plates,
> >etc?, at Cone 10 Redux temps.
> >
> >Thanks,
> >
> >Dan Saultman
>
> I just recently made some special plate stilts to use at cone 6 by
> embedding Kanthal wire in a press molded clay "spider" of Laguna
> Calico cone 6 clay and they work fine.
>
> I think you can make them with cone 10 clay and pieces of a cut up
> kiln sitter rod. That long rod inside the sitter stays stiff at
> higher than cone 10. Probably you need to grind down the diameter at
> the point end of the pieces.
>
> There are alloys called Hastalloy that will take these temperatures.
> I do not know what the kiln sitter rod is made of but I suspect it is
> something similar.
[snip]
Just a thought here:
How about if you made the clay portion of the stilts with a high-fire
clay, but instead of imbedding the wires into the stilts, create the
holes in the 3 "legs" with a diamater that is going to be just slightly
larger than the Kanthal wire you are going to put in them. (Keep in mind
that as the home-made stilts fire the first time (without wire in them)
the shrinkage is going to make the holes smaller than before the first
^10 firing, you might have to experiment a little to get the size just
right. It won't hurt for the Kanthal wires to be slightly loose in the
"reusable portion" of the stilts. You might even want to make the stilts
a little "thicker" than usual so that the holes will be a bit deeper to
support the wires better. You will probably have to use pliers to remove
the stilts, since they aren't going to stay in the stilts like if they
were imbeded as usual. In reduction, the lifespan of the Kanthal isn't
going to be great, but I'm guessing they will last a firing or two, then
just throw the wires away and put in new wires. A few feet of Kanthal
isn't going to cost much and will make a heck of a lot of "replacement
tips" for your stilts. Just cut the wire at a pretty steep angle to
make the stilt pins pointed and reduce the size of stilt marks left in
the finished glaze.
Brian
Eleanora Eden on tue 23 may 06
Hi Dan and all,
When I worked at c 10 my stilts were the 3-prong
porcelain stilts. I used to buy them by the gross. I am with Linda
here, no wire stilts ever worked for me at c 10.
I also agree with Mel in that a plate is the wrong piece to try and
stilt at c 10. In order to stilt at that temp you need
a shape that wants to stay un-warped. Vases, mugs, etc are
excellent candidates for stilting in high fire. Plates aren't.
Eleanora
>This was something that I worked on - no wire guage
>would stand up to high temps. John Calver makes
>clay stitlts - a thick coil that is cut to a point
>at the end - sort of like sharpening a pencil wth a
>knife.
>
>Linda
>Ithaca, NY
>
>Subject: Stilts for Cone 10
>
>Has anyone found a successful wire stilt that will
>work with plates,
>etc?, at Cone 10 Redux temps.
>
>Thanks,
>
>Dan Saultman
>
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--
Bellows Falls Vermont
www.eleanoraeden.com
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