John Rodgers on tue 23 may 06
Clayfolk,
Does anyone have experience with stamping names, text, etc, on clay
things in a way that they survive the heat of glaze firing? I need to
stamp text directly onto - rather than into - the clay on the back of a
plate and do it so it will survive the heat of the fire. Suggetions for
stamp materials, ink or stain or colorant or what ever, plus cautions,
how-to's etc would be appreciated.
Thanks,
John Rodgers
Chelsea, AL
William Melstrom on tue 23 may 06
> Does anyone have experience with stamping names, text, etc, on clay
> things in a way that they survive the heat of glaze firing?
John, I have used the following potter's "stamp pad" for years with great
success:
http://www.minnesotaclayusa.com/specialty/potters_pad.html
I use the green and blue pads. The manufacturer recommends covering the
stamp with a clear glaze, but this is not necessary if you are high-firing.
I single-fire, and I stamp directly onto bone dry greenware. Results are
similar on bisqued ware.
If you go to my webpage:
http://www.handspiral.com/blog.htm
and scroll down, you will see numerous examples of my work on which I have
stamped my symbol onto the bottoms of my pieces.
William Melstrom
Hank Murrow on tue 23 may 06
On May 23, 2006, at 7:57 AM, John Rodgers wrote:
> Clayfolk,
>
> Does anyone have experience with stamping names, text, etc, on clay
> things in a way that they survive the heat of glaze firing? I need to
> stamp text directly onto - rather than into - the clay on the back of a
> plate and do it so it will survive the heat of the fire. Suggetions for
> stamp materials, ink or stain or colorant or what ever, plus cautions,
> how-to's etc would be appreciated.
Dear John;
recently, I wished to use a rubber stamp (merigraph process) of a bird
on my large wall tiles. knowing that if i tried to stamp oxides on the
unfired glaze coat, the glaze might powder off, so I asked if anyone on
Clayart might know of a way of 'sizing' the glaze. Lee Love offered his
teacher's method of using gelatin to size the surface. Another
suggestion was offered but I can't remember it as I did not try it.
however, I dissolved a packet of Knox gelatin in around a cup of water
and heated it to simmering, then let it cool to just warmish. i brushed
this onto the dried & unfired glaze coat and then Mixed my pigment
(Cardew's dirty cobalt mixture) to a slightly thicker consistency and
used a glass plate as a 'stamp pad'. Stamped the mixture onto the dried
sized surface and carefully made the transfer. Fired those wall tiles
to perfection at Cone 11 for the Shino, and it worked a charm. Don't
have any pics yet to share, but Lee's suggestion helped my show be a
big success for NCECA.
Hope the same for you,
Hank in Eugene
www.murrow.biz/hank
Michael Wendt on tue 23 may 06
John,
The do it yourself approach offers a lot
of control. I give one example at the bottom
of:
http://www.wendtpottery.com/history.htm
By making the colorant to your taste, you can
create a variety of effects.
One way you can print over glaze is to bisque
fire the glazed item so that the glaze is hard
and makes decoration easy.
I have also used he ink-stamp-brayer technique
by spraying Dutch Boy Clear Acrylic spray
over the dry glaze which made the surface strong,
smooth and easy to print on.
Regards,
Michael Wendt
Wendt Pottery
2729 Clearwater Ave
Lewiston, Idaho 83501
USA
wendtpot@lewiston.com
www.wendtpottery.com
John wrote:
Clayfolk,
Does anyone have experience with stamping names, text,
etc, on clay
things in a way that they survive the heat of glaze
firing? I need to
stamp text directly onto - rather than into - the clay
on the back of a
plate and do it so it will survive the heat of the
fire. Suggestions for
stamp materials, ink or stain or colorant or what ever,
plus cautions,
how-to's etc would be appreciated.
Thanks,
John Rodgers
Chelsea, AL
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