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flat tiles again

updated wed 31 may 06

 

Janet Starr on tue 30 may 06


Michael Wendt tells me to wire wedge the clay before I roll out the tiles to
equal out the moisture in the clay, and I will try that and get back to the
group after the next cycle.

Chris Campbell says to drop the clay on a board and leave it till it sets
up. Chris, I already do that! I roll out the slab, drop it, and cut it up
with a t-square and don't touch it till the next day when I separate them,
finish the backs and put them between drywall, always picking up by flipping
from one small piece of drywall to the other so I don't bend the clay.

Paul Lewing says that the clay must be dropped straight so that it makes a
connecting noise and doesn't distort. I do that as well......

Jeff Zamek thinks I need a less plastic claybody. I think he's probably
right. Anyone know of any mid-range stoneware bodies that are grey when wet
and cinnamon when fired? Mine is Imco Stoneware
1-C. He also suggests a different drying routine involving covering at
night and flipping for for 2 days.

I'm going to try the wire wedging and suggested drying routine. Since it
appears that I'm doing everything I possibly could, the clay must be the
problem.

I sure appreciate all this advice!

Janet Starr
Soquel, CA
www.craftsmantiles.com
www.featuretile.com
featuretile@gmail.com

Elizabeth Priddy on tue 30 may 06


Chris Campbell says to drop the clay on a board and
leave it till it
sets
up. Chris, I already do that! I roll out the slab,
drop it, and cut
it up
with a t-square and don't touch it till the next day
when I separate
them,
finish the backs and put them between drywall, always
picking up by
flipping
from one small piece of drywall to the other so I
don't bend the clay.

Paul Lewing says that the clay must be dropped
straight so that it
makes a
connecting noise and doesn't distort. I do that as
well......

....I'm doing everything I possibly could, the clay
must be
the
problem.

I sure appreciate all this advice!

Janet Starr

_________________________________

Sincerely, if you were doing everything you could
correctly, you would probably be able to make your
clay work with the slamming method.

I really do not believe you are doing it correctly.
As I cannot see you, I can't confirm, but I also have
never found a clay body that this did not work for,
cone 05 on up to cone 10.

Cut the tiles, put them on a board, drop it flat, like
Paul said, then do not touch them in any way, no
t-square, nothing til they are leather hard. Then,
using a square bicuit cutter, the right tool for the
right job, trim them up. There is a large biscuit
cutter specially for this, use wd-40 if it sticks.
(Although I do all tis with a sharp knife by eye)

You can dry them in the sun and fire them the same day
with this method and they will come out flat.

You are just not doing it right. It is a technique
that takes work and patience. I just got rid of a
good slab roller that was taking up space because I
can toss a 1/4 inch slab 24x24 in about 2-3 minutes
from a 25 pound bag. The slab roller took too long to
mess with.

You need to practice, just like with throwing.

Sincerely trying to help.

E

Elizabeth Priddy

Beaufort, NC - USA
http://www.elizabethpriddy.com

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