Norman Aufrichtig on tue 30 may 06
i found the same bulbs this weekend in the local wal-mart for $8.00, had to
buy one, even though i already have 10. i also use them for my display when
indoors as there is usually a limit to the amount of wattage one can use. i
get an amazing amount of clean light from them.
norman
----- Original Message -----
From: "Jennifer Boyer"
To:
Sent: Tuesday, May 30, 2006 7:03 AM
Subject: Re: [CLAYART] Photo Studio in a Box
> There's another problem: The accuracy of color may be hard to control
> if you use a digital cameras since you are using Tungsten bulbs which
> are made to use with tungsten 35 mm film in a film camera. Full
> spectrum florescents do a better job for me with digital. I have a
> white glaze so I see when the color is off right away.
> Tabletopstudios.com shows their set up with a light cube and full
> spectrum florescent bulbs. 1000bulbs.com has the bulbs cheaper: about
> 16.00 a piece..
>
> My basic wish was to have a photo set up in which I could take
> pictures using all the default modes on my camera and that required
> NO photoshopping/editing. I'm there after a long hard process of
> trial and error....
>
> For folks looking for a photo set up I think you can get the light
> cubes way cheaper on Ebay. I'm planning on getting one of the real
> cheap ones and trying it. I'll post results. Look at the tabletop web
> site to see what they look like, then go on Ebay and check the cheap
> ones out...
> Jennifer
> On May 30, 2006, at 12:00 AM, Rachel Campbell wrote:
>
> > Hi all,
> >
> > I found a neat little product reviewed in a digital photography
> > magazine,
> > and I thought I'd share and see what the "art photo" gurus thought.
> >
> > \
> >
> > The only two drawbacks I can see is that 1) the background isn't a
> > gradient-- it's solid grey, and 2) it is about 18" square, so it
> > won't work
> > well for TC's Machoware. (They're marketing it to ebay sellers.) But
> > maybe there's something else I'm missing. I'm finding it to be way
> > cool. And if you explore the "gallery" on my site you can pretty
> > easily
> > see which shots I've "retaken" since I got the new setup. (They
> > may not be
> > great, but a lot of the older shots, taken against a black
> > posterboard with
> > whatever light my studio was giving me at the moment, are a lot
> > worse. ;-).
> >
>
> *****************************
> Jennifer Boyer
> Thistle Hill Pottery
> Montpelier, VT
> http://thistlehillpottery.com
> *****************************
>
>
____________________________________________________________________________
__
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>
>
>
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Rachel Campbell on tue 30 may 06
Hi all,
I found a neat little product reviewed in a digital photography magazine,
and I thought I'd share and see what the "art photo" gurus thought.
It's called the "Photo Studio in a Box" by American Recorder, I think... it
comes all folded up into its own briefcase sized package, but breaks out
into a "photo studio" setup-- grey (or blue) background, white translucent
nylon sides and top to diffuse light, two little tungsten lights, and even
a table-top tripod for the camera. And it all fits back into the case.
I put some photos of my setup on my website
(http://downtothepottershouse.com/Photo%20Setup.html)
and if you google Photo Studio in a Box you will find lots of reviews/cost
comparisons. I got mine at Ritz photo for $120, but I think Amazon has it
for much less.
The only two drawbacks I can see is that 1) the background isn't a
gradient-- it's solid grey, and 2) it is about 18" square, so it won't work
well for TC's Machoware. (They're marketing it to ebay sellers.) But
maybe there's something else I'm missing. I'm finding it to be way
cool. And if you explore the "gallery" on my site you can pretty easily
see which shots I've "retaken" since I got the new setup. (They may not be
great, but a lot of the older shots, taken against a black posterboard with
whatever light my studio was giving me at the moment, are a lot worse. ;-).
So whatcha think?
Rachel in Odenton, MD
http://DownToThePottersHouse.com
where I'm very excited and looking forward to roadtripping with Carole Fox
in Elkton MD to the Potters Council Regional in Staunton VA this
weekend. Anyone else going?
Jennifer Boyer on tue 30 may 06
There's another problem: The accuracy of color may be hard to control
if you use a digital cameras since you are using Tungsten bulbs which
are made to use with tungsten 35 mm film in a film camera. Full
spectrum florescents do a better job for me with digital. I have a
white glaze so I see when the color is off right away.
Tabletopstudios.com shows their set up with a light cube and full
spectrum florescent bulbs. 1000bulbs.com has the bulbs cheaper: about
16.00 a piece..
My basic wish was to have a photo set up in which I could take
pictures using all the default modes on my camera and that required
NO photoshopping/editing. I'm there after a long hard process of
trial and error....
For folks looking for a photo set up I think you can get the light
cubes way cheaper on Ebay. I'm planning on getting one of the real
cheap ones and trying it. I'll post results. Look at the tabletop web
site to see what they look like, then go on Ebay and check the cheap
ones out...
Jennifer
On May 30, 2006, at 12:00 AM, Rachel Campbell wrote:
> Hi all,
>
> I found a neat little product reviewed in a digital photography
> magazine,
> and I thought I'd share and see what the "art photo" gurus thought.
>
> \
>
> The only two drawbacks I can see is that 1) the background isn't a
> gradient-- it's solid grey, and 2) it is about 18" square, so it
> won't work
> well for TC's Machoware. (They're marketing it to ebay sellers.) But
> maybe there's something else I'm missing. I'm finding it to be way
> cool. And if you explore the "gallery" on my site you can pretty
> easily
> see which shots I've "retaken" since I got the new setup. (They
> may not be
> great, but a lot of the older shots, taken against a black
> posterboard with
> whatever light my studio was giving me at the moment, are a lot
> worse. ;-).
>
*****************************
Jennifer Boyer
Thistle Hill Pottery
Montpelier, VT
http://thistlehillpottery.com
*****************************
Bonnie Staffel on wed 31 may 06
I agree about this little piece of equipment. My niece gave me one last
year as a gift and I have been using it for my smaller work ever since. I
found that I can set up on any space large enough to accommodate the
lighting system. This is hard to find in my apartment as I am a pack rat, a
"can't be bothered" housekeeper, and keep my filing system on any flat
surface I can find. Mine also came with a small tripod with a rotating
ball for leveling, but found that my big tripod was much easier for me to
handle. On their website, it is advertised at $99.99.
When you are finished using the box, you just fold it up and it becomes a
flat package with a handle for carrying. The company name is HIRO and
Google will take you right to the site with the subject name..
Regards, Bonnie Staffel
http://webpages.charter.net/bstaffel/
DVD Throwing with Coils and Slabs
DVD Beginning Processes
Charter Member Potters Council
Russel Fouts on wed 31 may 06
Jennifer,
>> My basic wish was to have a photo set up in which I could take
pictures using all the default modes on my camera and that required
NO photoshopping/editing. I'm there after a long hard process of
trial and error.... <<
How do you avoid the "haze" that is got rid of by adjusting the
levels in Photoshop? That's the one thing I have left to get rid of.
Russel
Jennifer Boyer on wed 31 may 06
I'm not sure what you mean. Can you show a before and after example
and let us know what adjusting you did in Photoshop?
I don't mess with levels. Yet.
Jennifer
On May 31, 2006, at 5:38 PM, Russel Fouts wrote:
> Jennifer,
>
> >> My basic wish was to have a photo set up in which I could take
> pictures using all the default modes on my camera and that required
> NO photoshopping/editing. I'm there after a long hard process of
> trial and error.... <<
>
> How do you avoid the "haze" that is got rid of by adjusting the
> levels in Photoshop? That's the one thing I have left to get rid of.
>
> Russel
>
> ______________________________________________________________________
> ________
> Send postings to clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
>
> You may look at the archives for the list or change your subscription
> settings from http://www.ceramics.org/clayart/
>
> Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be reached at
> melpots@pclink.com.
*****************************
Jennifer Boyer
Thistle Hill Pottery
Montpelier, VT
http://thistlehillpottery.com
*****************************
John Jensen on thu 1 jun 06
Russel;
If I understand you properly the haze is what is caused by lightening
a shadow which has no detail in it. I mainly avoid this by shooting
RAW files when I expect of be manipulating the image. When I try to
lighten a jpg to the extent that I get haze, I have been able to "fake
it" a bit by boosting contrast a little and increasing the color
saturation a few points.
John Jensen, Mudbug Pottery
John Jensen@mudbugpottery.com
http://www.toadhouse.com http://www.mudbugpottery.com
http://www.mudbugblues.com
> > NO photoshopping/editing. I'm there after a long hard process of
> > trial and error.... <<
> >
> > How do you avoid the "haze" that is got rid of by adjusting the
> > levels in Photoshop? That's the one thing I have left to get rid
> of.
> >
> > Russel
> >
> >
Tony Ferguson on fri 2 jun 06
howdy,
The haze is caused by ambient light reflecting at and angle and spilling out or over into your lens. In most cases, adjusting your lights will fix this, adding a snoot to your camera or blocking ambient light with your hand or a piece of foam core can fix this. I've actually made some velcro barn doors for my lighting system that works like a charm for blocking ambient light that can cause this effect and it is so much easier on my eyes its amazing. Haze can also be a product of poor lighting or lighting where the color temperature is not a constant. Also, don't forget about humidity--light loves to reflect through water particules. The cheap bulbs that I used to use are notorious for this and other temp problems causing discoloration.
Tony Ferguson
http://www.tonyferguson.net
Russel Fouts wrote:
>> If I understand you properly the haze is what is caused by
lightening a shadow which has no detail in it. I mainly avoid this
by shooting RAW files when I expect of be manipulating the
image. When I try to lighten a jpg to the extent that I get haze, I
have been able to "fake it" a bit by boosting contrast a little and
increasing the color saturation a few points. <<
I understand what you mean but that's not it. It's the haze you have
in the photograph before you have done any processing.
Russel
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Russel Fouts on fri 2 jun 06
Jennifer.
>> I'm not sure what you mean. Can you show a before and after
example and let us know what adjusting you did in Photoshop? I don't
mess with levels. Yet. <<
According to most photoshopping instructions, that's one of the first
(and easiest) steps. Do that right after croping and adjusting for
any tilt, before you adjust contrast, brightness, or anything else.
I'll put something together on the weekend and get it out to you.
Russel
Russel Fouts
Mes Potes & Mes Pots
Brussels, Belgium
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Russel Fouts on sat 3 jun 06
>> If I understand you properly the haze is what is caused by
lightening a shadow which has no detail in it. I mainly avoid this
by shooting RAW files when I expect of be manipulating the
image. When I try to lighten a jpg to the extent that I get haze, I
have been able to "fake it" a bit by boosting contrast a little and
increasing the color saturation a few points. <<
I understand what you mean but that's not it. It's the haze you have
in the photograph before you have done any processing.
Russel
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