Steve Slatin on tue 30 may 06
Phil, Phil!
Remember the poem?
For goodness sake, do as you oughter
-- add the acid to the water!
And of course your're right to have
the antidote ready before messing with
the poison ... I was cleaning some tile
once, with respirator gloves and goggles,
and adding the soda solution as I worked
my way across the floor. The phone rang,
I had to move to get it, and something
smelled 'wrong' -- I had gotten a pant
knee into an un-neutralized spot.
It burned a nice hole in my jeans in
just a few minutes. I got the soda
solution onto my skin, and there was
no harm done.
Best wishes -- Steve S
--- pdp1@EARTHLINK.NET wrote:
> Hi Stephani, all...
>
>
> first and be close at hand, before pouring a
> little Acid into a small plastic up, then
> gently
> adding the Water to it, or vice versa,
> whichever
> is the ideal, and at the moment I forget which
> way
> is. This way, if any mis-haps occur, one has
> the
> neutralizer already handy.
Steve Slatin --
The angel lay in a little thicket. It had no need of love; there was nothing anywhere in the world could startle it ...
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Stephani Stephenson on tue 30 may 06
Thank you BIll...Yes I tried WD-40 and also a penetrating spray, let
soak, etc. didn't budge em
had to be careful with all the applied torque, to not break the element
wire,
though the element wire still seemed unoxidized and somewhat flexible
at the point of the loop
think I treated bolts ,etc. to WD-40 when they were installed as well,
but the forces of
decay prevailed!
In the end it was Dremel and me , performing
surgery...
"laboltomies" as it were!
Thanks you for the advice , will make sure I get Stainless steel....
William & Susan Schran wrote: "when the older ones that were rusted, I
always found spraying with WD40 and
letting the connection sit while it did it's stuff to loosen it up,
worked
to break the seal."
Stephani Stephenson
steph@revivaltileworks.com
http://www.revivaltileworks.com
pdp1@EARTHLINK.NET on tue 30 may 06
Hi Stephani, all...
Rust, when it is free from grease, oil or W-D 40
residu, may be dissolved nicely and quickly, with
some 50/50 dilute Muriatic Acid.
The result neutralized with a heavy-ish solution
of Baking Soda dissolved in Water.
A small brush may be used to apply the Acid
solution, and of course one uses care to make sure
one does not drip any on one's self or on other
things.
The Baking Soda-Water solution should be made up
first and be close at hand, before pouring a
little Acid into a small plastic up, then gently
adding the Water to it, or vice versa, whichever
is the ideal, and at the moment I forget which way
is. This way, if any mis-haps occur, one has the
neutralizer already handy.
The Acid of course is to be respected and handled
with methocidal prudence.
If a rusty item or connection has been
contaminated with penetrating oils or other residu
which would repell or insulate them from the Acid
Water, one may clean them off first useing an
Aerosol Can of Electrical Contact Cleaner ( which
leaves no residu), then proceed to the Acid-Water
solution...then lastly to the Neutralizer.
This would work well for Resistance-Wire
connections that have rusted and or are rusted
fast to each other...
Best wishes...
Phil
Las Vegas
----- Original Message -----
From: "Stephani Stephenson"
> Thank you BIll...Yes I tried WD-40 and also a
penetrating spray, let
> soak, etc. didn't budge em
>
> had to be careful with all the applied torque,
to not break the element
> wire,
> though the element wire still seemed
unoxidized and somewhat flexible
> at the point of the loop
>
> think I treated bolts ,etc. to WD-40 when they
were installed as well,
> but the forces of
> decay prevailed!
> In the end it was Dremel and me , performing
> surgery...
> "laboltomies" as it were!
> Thanks you for the advice , will make sure I get
Stainless steel....
>
>
>
> William & Susan Schran wrote: "when the older
ones that were rusted, I
> always found spraying with WD40 and
> letting the connection sit while it did it's
stuff to loosen it up,
> worked
> to break the seal."
>
>
> Stephani Stephenson
> steph@revivaltileworks.com
> http://www.revivaltileworks.com
>
>
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Craig Martell on tue 30 may 06
Stephanie was saying:
>Yes I tried WD-40 and also a penetrating spray, let
>soak, etc. didn't budge em
Hi:
If you are still having trouble getting the split bolts to unthread, try
some heat. I use a hand held propane torch. Just be careful not to burn
wires and insulation. I get stuff dull red with the torch and with
wrenches ready and working fast they usually release.
To avoid problems in the future, try some Anti-Seize compound. Just put
some on the threads when you install new connectors. You can get small
tubes of Anti-Seize at any auto parts store. It's mainly for engine parts
that seize up from heating and cooling.
regards, Craig Martell Hopewell, Oregon
Linda Ferzoco on tue 30 may 06
--- pdp1@EARTHLINK.NET wrote:her
> things.
>
> The Baking Soda-Water solution should be made up
> first and be close at hand, before pouring a
> little Acid into a small plastic up, then gently
> adding the Water to it, or vice versa, whichever
> is the ideal, and at the moment I forget which way
> is. This way, if any mis-haps occur, one has the
> neutralizer already handy.
>
IF YOU'RE GOING TO MESS WITH DILUTING ACID, REMEMBER
THIS: AAA - ALWAYS ADD ACID (to water)
AND WEAR SAFETY GOGGLES/MASK
Linda Ferzoco
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