Tom at Hutchtel.net on wed 31 may 06
Our neighbor, a welder and steel worker, says they are generally available
at iron scrap yards....or they'll know where to get them. Nils used to sell
them 7 or 8 years ago. Don't know if he still does, but he might know a
source. He's at Linfield College in Oregon.
http://calvin.linfield.edu/~nlou/
Tom Wirt
Subject: Re: Kiln building supplies
> Dan P. wrote:
>>I have great hopes to build a shuttle MFT kiln and
> am having a very hard
> time finding wheels with a groove in then. Anyone
> know of a good source?
> I looked a Grainger but the only ones they had
> were over $170 each...
Pfeiffer, Dan (Dan R) on wed 31 may 06
=20
I have great hopes to build a shuttle MFT kiln and am having a very hard
time finding wheels with a groove in then. Anyone know of a good source?
I looked a Grainger but the only ones they had were over $170 each and
looked to be way over kill and the groove looks too big.
=20
After reading Nils book (very good read) I am confused on what type of
IFB to buy. He makes a distinction over who makes the brick but so far I
have found only one source that is close enough to drive to. Does it
really matter that much who make it?
=20
One other detail left hanging is the reference to expanded metal, I
called my local steel suppler and ask about it and they carry 5 types. I
have no clue which one to pick. My guess is smaller hole is better but
not sure, maybe does not matter???? All of them also are different
thickness.
=20
=20
=20
Dan & Laurel in Elkmont Al=20
Pfeiffer Fire Arts=20
www.pfeifferfirearts.com
Potters Council Members=20
pdp1@EARTHLINK.NET on wed 31 may 06
Hi Dan,
Why do you need 'wheels' with a 'groove' in them?
Or, what does this mean?
Details?
Phil
el ve
----- Original Message -----
From: "Pfeiffer, Dan (Dan R)"
I have great hopes to build a shuttle MFT kiln and
am having a very hard
time finding wheels with a groove in then. Anyone
know of a good source?
I looked a Grainger but the only ones they had
were over $170 each and
looked to be way over kill and the groove looks
too big.
After reading Nils book (very good read) I am
confused on what type of
IFB to buy. He makes a distinction over who makes
the brick but so far I
have found only one source that is close enough to
drive to. Does it
really matter that much who make it?
One other detail left hanging is the reference to
expanded metal, I
called my local steel suppler and ask about it and
they carry 5 types. I
have no clue which one to pick. My guess is
smaller hole is better but
not sure, maybe does not matter???? All of them
also are different
thickness.
Dan & Laurel in Elkmont Al
Pfeiffer Fire Arts
www.pfeifferfirearts.com
Potters Council Members
Marcia Selsor on wed 31 may 06
Look for V-groove pulleys. That's what I used when I built one. I
bet our
recycle place would have them I don't know about yours.
We have a great recycling place in Billings. Check around.
Marcia Selsor
http://marciaselsor.com
Potters' Council Charter Member
On May 31, 2006, at 10:50 AM, Pfeiffer, Dan (Dan R) wrote:
>
> I have great hopes to build a shuttle MFT kiln and am having a very
> hard
> time finding wheels with a groove in then. Anyone know of a good
> source?
> I looked a Grainger but the only ones they had were over $170 each and
> looked to be way over kill and the groove looks too big.
>
> After reading Nils book (very good read) I am confused on what type of
> IFB to buy. He makes a distinction over who makes the brick but so
> far I
> have found only one source that is close enough to drive to. Does it
> really matter that much who make it?
>
> One other detail left hanging is the reference to expanded metal, I
> called my local steel suppler and ask about it and they carry 5
> types. I
> have no clue which one to pick. My guess is smaller hole is better but
> not sure, maybe does not matter???? All of them also are different
> thickness.
>
>
>
> Dan & Laurel in Elkmont Al
> Pfeiffer Fire Arts
Snail Scott on wed 31 may 06
Dan P. wrote:
>I have great hopes to build a shuttle MFT kiln and
am having a very hard
time finding wheels with a groove in then. Anyone
know of a good source?
I looked a Grainger but the only ones they had
were over $170 each...
At 10:57 AM 5/31/2006 -0700, Phil wrote:
>Why do you need 'wheels' with a 'groove' in them?
Car kiln wheels often run on tracks made of=20
steel angle stock laid out (open side down)=20
on the floor making a triangular track; thus=20
the call for wheels with a 90=BA groove in them.
Having the car wheels run on tracks makes it=20
easier to slide the kiln car straight in with=20
minimal abrasion to adjacent refractories.
Sorry, Dan; I don't have good source either.
-snail
Wayne Seidl on wed 31 may 06
Um, this might be too simplistic for some of y'all, but...
There is no need to go out and spend good money on fancy wheels.
If you locate the left angle iron for the "track" thus:
L =20
and bolt it to the floor that way, then measure your distance between =
the
outsides of whatever wheels are on your kiln car and locate the right =
side
track in a reverse "L" (bottom facing the left track) with just a bit of
space between them greater than the distance you measured for the width =
of
the wheels, you will end up with two "walls" as shown:
L<---X--->|=20
where "X" is the distance between the outsides of your wheels + 1/4 =
inch.
If you use metal wheels, they will "slide" along the walls created by =
the
angle iron and not bind as you are trying to gently push the car into =
the
kiln fully loaded with all your hard work. The wheels will also roll on =
the
bottom of the "L"s. Do not use swivel wheels.
Be sure to use 2X2 or larger angle iron for a high enough wall. Bolt the
angle iron to the floor with countersinking style TAPCONS (brand name)so
that the wheels roll over them. Paint the tracks bright yellow or =
orange
(or both, or use reflective tape) so that you don't trip over them. =
Falling
onto/into as hot kiln is no fun. Been there, done that.
Best,
Wayne Seidl
-----Original Message-----
From: Clayart [mailto:CLAYART@LSV.CERAMICS.ORG] On Behalf Of Snail Scott
Sent: Wednesday, May 31, 2006 5:10 PM
To: CLAYART@LSV.CERAMICS.ORG
Subject: Re: Kiln building supplies
Dan P. wrote:
>I have great hopes to build a shuttle MFT kiln and
am having a very hard
time finding wheels with a groove in then. Anyone
know of a good source?
I looked a Grainger but the only ones they had
were over $170 each...
At 10:57 AM 5/31/2006 -0700, Phil wrote:
>Why do you need 'wheels' with a 'groove' in them?
Car kiln wheels often run on tracks made of=20
steel angle stock laid out (open side down)=20
on the floor making a triangular track; thus=20
the call for wheels with a 90=BA groove in them.
Having the car wheels run on tracks makes it=20
easier to slide the kiln car straight in with=20
minimal abrasion to adjacent refractories.
Sorry, Dan; I don't have good source either.
-snail
_________________________________________________________________________=
___
__
Send postings to clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
You may look at the archives for the list or change your subscription
settings from http://www.ceramics.org/clayart/
Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be reached at
melpots@pclink.com.
Vince Pitelka on thu 1 jun 06
> At the time I was building the kiln Clayarters were warning of
> problems with binding of the car wheels on 2 V tracks if the welding
> wasn't precise. My tracks have worked just fine.
Jennifer -
Yes, that would be a problem, but it is no trouble at all to get the kiln
car tracks aligned precisely. Welding them together so that they are not
aligned would be a major screw-up, while a bit of care will assure parallel
tracks. It isn't rocket science, just careful craftsmanship. Anyone who
can't fabricate a set of parallel tracks probably shouldn't be doing the
fabricating.
Some people have complained about having the tracks in the way, but I found
a simple solution. In my studio in Northern California I had a removable
section of track that extended all the way into my glaze room. When the car
was rolled into the kiln, I could remove that section of track and lean it
against the wall in the kiln room. It worked great.
It sounds like your car wheel setup works fine for you, but I would still
always recommend four V-groove wheels on inverted angle-iron track. As I
said, the V-groove wheels and angle iron are inexpensive, and for this
application, it is clearly the best design.
- Vince
Vince Pitelka
Appalachian Center for Craft, Tennessee Technological University
Smithville TN 37166, 615/597-6801 x111
vpitelka@dtccom.net, wpitelka@tntech.edu
http://iweb.tntech.edu/wpitelka/
http://www.tntech.edu/craftcenter/
Paul Vernier on thu 1 jun 06
V Groove wheels can be found at the following sites.
http://www.castercity.com/vgroovew.htm
http://www.casters-online.com/ckshop.php?item=210&ret=http%3A%2F%
2Fwww.casters-online.com%2Fckshop.php%3Fpage%3D1%26category%3D30
http://www2.northerntool.com/product-1/40287.htm
I am putting together adesign for a new MFT as well.
Has anyone used castable refractories for the top on a MFT?
Paul Vernier, Santa Cruz, CA
Carl Finch on thu 1 jun 06
Another possibility (if one can still find them) is the cast iron wheels
used on fruit drying carts. The fruit, prunes, apricots, etc., was
force-dryed in a gas-fired oven.
When I lived near San Jose, California, I bought 20 of these old carts for
the various welding projects I built over my years there. These wheels are
flanged (just like those on a choo-choo), with crude roller bearings and
grease fittings, and about 6 inches in diameter.
Unfortunately I never brought any of them with me when I moved to
Oregon--the carts weighed about 100 lbs. each. Thirty years later they
seemed like 200 lbs!
Here's a snapshot of my remaining 'cache' just before I abandoned them.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/djinn/158154125/
--Carl,
who was untrue to his "never throw nuthin' away" motto,
in Medford, Oregon
At 08:05 PM 5/31/2006, Tom at Hutchtel.net wrote:
>Our neighbor, a welder and steel worker, says they are generally available
>at iron scrap yards....or they'll know where to get them. Nils used to sell
>them 7 or 8 years ago. Don't know if he still does, but he might know a
>source. He's at Linfield College in Oregon.
>
>http://calvin.linfield.edu/~nlou/
>
>Tom Wirt
>
>Subject: Re: Kiln building supplies
>
>>Dan P. wrote:
>>>I have great hopes to build a shuttle MFT kiln and
>>am having a very hard
>>time finding wheels with a groove in then. Anyone
>>know of a good source?
>>I looked a Grainger but the only ones they had
>>were over $170 each...
Jennifer Boyer on thu 1 jun 06
There's really no need to buy fancy wheels, and you can get the
precision of a v-groove system with only 2 v-groove wheels.
The 6 inch wheels here are 27.43 each:
http://www1.mscdirect.com/CGI/N2DRVSH
They are rated at 1200 lbs a piece.
I LOVE this online catalogue.
So here's how my welder friend built my car based on the local
granite industry style of heavy car:
Only do the v-groove track on one side. V-groove is NICE especially
if your car is nice and tight fitting. But the other track can just
be flat metal plate with 2 regular wheels.
The plate is about twice the width of the wheel itself and the car is
built up on that side to make up for the difference in height created
by the difference in the track on the 2 sides.
It's slick. really.
Jennifer
On May 31, 2006, at 7:40 PM, Wayne Seidl wrote:
> Um, this might be too simplistic for some of y'all, but...
> There is no need to go out and spend good money on fancy wheels.
> If you locate the left angle iron for the "track" thus:
> L
> and bolt it to the floor that way, then measure your distance
> between the
> outsides of whatever wheels are on your kiln car and locate the
> right side
> track in a reverse "L" (bottom facing the left track) with just a
> bit of
> space between them greater than the distance you measured for the
> width of
> the wheels, you will end up with two "walls" as shown:
>
> L<---X--->|
>
*****************************
Jennifer Boyer
Thistle Hill Pottery
Montpelier, VT
http://thistlehillpottery.com
*****************************
Ralph Naylor on thu 1 jun 06
Dan, go to http://www.mcmaster.com/ and search on "caster wheels" or see
catalog page 1231. They have what you need, you should be able to get by
for less than 20 bucks per wheel.
Best regards,
Ralph in NH
On Wed, 31 May 2006 11:50:40 -0500, Pfeiffer, Dan (Dan R)
wrote:
>
>I have great hopes to build a shuttle MFT kiln and am having a very hard
>time finding wheels with a groove in then. Anyone know of a good source?
>I looked a Grainger but the only ones they had were over $170 each and
>looked to be way over kill and the groove looks too big.
Vince Pitelka on thu 1 jun 06
Dan and Laurel -
Go back to the www.grainger.com and enter Grainger item #2MV82. It's a 6"
diameter by 2" wide V-groove cast iron wheel with roller bearings, capable
of supporting 1000 lbs. - that would be 4000 lbs. with four wheels, way more
than your car is going to weigh. They cost $17.87 each.
The super-expensive ones you were looking at are much heavier, and each
wheel will support 4000 lbs., or a total of 16,000 lbs. for the kiln car,
which would be a bit overkill.
These are the wheels I used on a 100-cubic-foot car kiln I built about 25
years ago. They worked great.
Good luck -
- Vince
Vince Pitelka
Appalachian Center for Craft, Tennessee Technological University
Smithville TN 37166, 615/597-6801 x111
vpitelka@dtccom.net, wpitelka@tntech.edu
http://iweb.tntech.edu/wpitelka/
http://www.tntech.edu/craftcenter/
Vince Pitelka on thu 1 jun 06
There have been some suggestions to use other kinds of wheels, and when
building a car kiln, you don't want to do that. The V-groove wheels are the
only appropriate ones for a very good reason. The inverted angle-iron track
(with the point of the "V" facing upwards) cannot collect any grit or
chunks - all debris falls down the sides, and thus the kiln car always rolls
smoothly. I have seen kiln cars using mining car track and wheels, and each
little chunk of debris on the flat surface of the track caused the whole car
to shake much more than you would imagine, with considerable risk to the
wares and kiln furniture.
Someone else said that V-groove wheels are very common and available in
hardware stores, but I have never found that to be the case. They are a
specialized item and you would not find them in a hardware store or home
improvement center. They must be purchased from an industrial supplier like
Grainger or McMasters-Carr.
- Vince
Vince Pitelka
Appalachian Center for Craft, Tennessee Technological University
Smithville TN 37166, 615/597-6801 x111
vpitelka@dtccom.net, wpitelka@tntech.edu
http://iweb.tntech.edu/wpitelka/
http://www.tntech.edu/craftcenter/
Ed Huml on thu 1 jun 06
I can't say for sure if this company has what you need but they have over 40
thousand caster combinations (according to them). Too late now for me to
call for you but here is link:
_http://www.servicecaster.com/index.shtml_
(http://www.servicecaster.com/index.shtml)
I would call them for help. They had casters that fit into the cutoff pipe
legs for our studio's old stainless steel restaurant kitchen tables. "Oh yah,
you need an expanding adapter stem caster!" Worked like a charm, quick and
cheap.
Usual disclaimers about Service caster.
Good Luck,
Ed Huml
BRUCA
Bay Ridge, Brooklyn
On Wed, 31 May 2006 11:50:40 -0500, Pfeiffer, Dan (Dan R)
wrote:
>
>I have great hopes to build a shuttle MFT kiln and am having a very hard
>time finding wheels with a groove in then. Anyone know of a good source?
>I looked a Grainger but the only ones they had were over $170 each and
>looked to be way over kill and the groove looks too big.
Vince Pitelka on thu 1 jun 06
> There's really no need to buy fancy wheels, and you can get the
> precision of a v-groove system with only 2 v-groove wheels.
> The 6 inch wheels here are 27.43 each:
> So here's how my welder friend built my car based on the local
> granite industry style of heavy car:
> Only do the v-groove track on one side. V-groove is NICE especially
> if your car is nice and tight fitting. But the other track can just
> be flat metal plate with 2 regular wheels.
> The plate is about twice the width of the wheel itself and the car is
> built up on that side to make up for the difference in height created
> by the difference in the track on the 2 sides.
Jennifer -
It's only "slick" if you are very careful to clean off the flat track when
you roll the car in and out of the kiln. This may be appropriate for the
"granite industry style of heavy car," but for a kiln car I cannot imagine
how this would be worth it. The V-groove wheels are not very expensive, and
with four of them you get a very smooth-rolling car without ever having to
worry about debris on the track.
- Vince
Vince Pitelka
Appalachian Center for Craft, Tennessee Technological University
Smithville TN 37166, 615/597-6801 x111
vpitelka@dtccom.net, wpitelka@tntech.edu
http://iweb.tntech.edu/wpitelka/
http://www.tntech.edu/craftcenter/
Jennifer Boyer on thu 1 jun 06
I haven't had much of a problem with this. Things are pretty tidy
around my kiln. I can remember maybe 2 times on the last 6 years(12
or firings a year) when I felt some resistance pushing the car in. It
was easy to back it up and clean off the track. But maybe it would be
a problem in a school situation.
At the time I was building the kiln Clayarters were warning of
problems with binding of the car wheels on 2 V tracks if the welding
wasn't precise. My tracks have worked just fine.
Jennifer
On Jun 1, 2006, at 9:21 PM, Vince Pitelka wrote:
>> There's really no need to buy fancy wheels, and you can get the
>> precision of a v-groove system with only 2 v-groove wheels.
>> The 6 inch wheels here are 27.43 each:
>> So here's how my welder friend built my car based on the local
>> granite industry style of heavy car:
>> Only do the v-groove track on one side. V-groove is NICE especially
>> if your car is nice and tight fitting. But the other track can just
>> be flat metal plate with 2 regular wheels.
>> The plate is about twice the width of the wheel itself and the car is
>> built up on that side to make up for the difference in height created
>> by the difference in the track on the 2 sides.
>
> Jennifer -
> It's only "slick" if you are very careful to clean off the flat
> track when
> you roll the car in and out of the kiln. This may be appropriate
> for the
> "granite industry style of heavy car," but for a kiln car I cannot
> imagine
> how this would be worth it. The V-groove wheels are not very
> expensive, and
> with four of them you get a very smooth-rolling car without ever
> having to
> worry about debris on the track.
> - Vince
>
> Vince Pitelka
> Appalachian Center for Craft, Tennessee Technological University
> Smithville TN 37166, 615/597-6801 x111
> vpitelka@dtccom.net, wpitelka@tntech.edu
> http://iweb.tntech.edu/wpitelka/
> http://www.tntech.edu/craftcenter/
>
> ______________________________________________________________________
> ________
> Send postings to clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
>
> You may look at the archives for the list or change your subscription
> settings from http://www.ceramics.org/clayart/
>
> Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be reached at
> melpots@pclink.com.
*****************************
Jennifer Boyer
Thistle Hill Pottery
Montpelier, VT
http://thistlehillpottery.com
*****************************
Vince Pitelka on fri 2 jun 06
> Look for V-groove pulleys. That's what I used when I built one. I
> bet our
> recycle place would have them I don't know about yours.
> We have a great recycling place in Billings. Check around.
Dear Marcia -
I hesitate to find fault with your generally wise counsel on Clayart, but
the above is very risky. You were fortunate to find some very heavy-duty
V-belt pulleys, but they are generally far too flimsy to stand up as wheels
for a kiln car, and what a sad failure it could be when one collapses. If a
wheel gave way with the kiln car 2/3 into the kiln, it would wedge the car
in place, or if it failed when the car was out of the kiln, one corner could
suddenly drop, dumping wares and furniture to the floor. This is no place
to take any chances, and the ONLY solution I have ever seen that works well
is the standard V-groove wheel. As I have pointed out, Grainger has them
for 17 bucks apiece for 6"x2" roller-bearing cast iron V-groove wheels, and
is this really a place to scrimp on a few bucks?
- Vince
Vince Pitelka
Appalachian Center for Craft, Tennessee Technological University
Smithville TN 37166, 615/597-6801 x111
vpitelka@dtccom.net, wpitelka@tntech.edu
http://iweb.tntech.edu/wpitelka/
http://www.tntech.edu/craftcenter/
Marcia Selsor on sat 3 jun 06
Thanks Vince.
Yes, I was fortunate at the time. We have competant student/ranch
hands in Montana and
very limited funds. The v-groove wheels worked for 26 years and still
going.
There was no Grainger in Billings at the time.
Marcia Selsor
http://marciaselsor.com
On Jun 2, 2006, at 9:56 PM, Vince Pitelka wrote:
>> Look for V-groove pulleys. That's what I used when I built one. I
>> bet our
>> recycle place would have them I don't know about yours.
>> We have a great recycling place in Billings. Check around.
>
> Dear Marcia -
> I hesitate to find fault with your generally wise counsel on
> Clayart, but
> the above is very risky. You were fortunate to find some very
> heavy-duty
> V-belt pulleys, but they are generally far too flimsy to stand up
> as wheels
> for a kiln car, and what a sad failure it could be when one
> collapses. If a
> wheel gave way with the kiln car 2/3 into the kiln, it would wedge
> the car
> in place, or if it failed when the car was out of the kiln, one
> corner could
> suddenly drop, dumping wares and furniture to the floor. This is
> no place
> to take any chances, and the ONLY solution I have ever seen that
> works well
> is the standard V-groove wheel. As I have pointed out, Grainger
> has them
> for 17 bucks apiece for 6"x2" roller-bearing cast iron V-groove
> wheels, and
> is this really a place to scrimp on a few bucks?
> - Vince
>
> Vince Pitelka
> Appalachian Center for Craft, Tennessee Technological University
> Smithville TN 37166, 615/597-6801 x111
> vpitelka@dtccom.net, wpitelka@tntech.edu
> http://iweb.tntech.edu/wpitelka/
> http://www.tntech.edu/craftcenter/
>
> _
Michael Wendt on sat 3 jun 06
To simplify finding the v groove casters, go to:
http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/wwg/productIndex.shtml
Current prices are a little higher than Vince
remembered but still very reasonable.
Regards,
Michael Wendt
Wendt Pottery
2729 Clearwater Ave
Lewiston, Idaho 83501
USA
wendtpot@lewiston.com
www.wendtpottery.com
Dan and Laurel on mon 5 jun 06
Many thanks to all for the many good sources for groove wheels! I must have
been having a very bad search day when I went looking for them the first
time. :) Now I have lots and lots of choices. One less reason to not get on
with the building... Well there is that other small problem on needing about
1000 IFB's but at least I know were to get them. The plan is to get started
on the steel work this year and next spring to get the ifb brick and do it!
I like the idea of a sunken track but am not sure I can build it in the real
world. I can get a concrete finisher to make a level pad but getting a
groove in the concrete while wet and still keeping the bottom of it level I
don't know. Cutting a slot later would be easier but the cost goes up. I
really like the idea of having track from the kiln room into the studio
glaze area.
In the mean time I am practicing by building a small test kiln using Mel's
web plans. The end result will be a lot smaller but I will build all but the
top in hard brick, which I have 1600 to play with, and then shrink it down
as much as I can and put a top on it. Why build a full size one to rebuild
in small? I am looking to see how things go together and where the problems
are before I work with soft IFB's.
One thing I do not understand is in the web plans there are no bricks trying
the walls together. Am I miss reading them or for a small kiln is it not
necessary? I know Vince say's every 5 rows do a header row and in looking at
nil's pic's of him building MFT's he puts two bricks per wall, in a neat
diamond patter to tie the wall together.
Dan & Laurel in Elkmont Al
Pfeiffer Fire Arts
www.pfeifferfirearts.com
Potters Council Members
Wayne Seidl on mon 5 jun 06
Dan and all:
The easiest way to get a groove in the floor while pouring is simply to =
set
a 2X4 on edge about an inch into the wet cement. Once it is embedded, =
put a
level on it to make sure it is (level). Pull it out when the concrete is
done being surfaced, or you can grease it up with Crisco, or axle =
grease,
whale blubber, lard, whatever you have greasy lying around (Tony, don't =
go
there) and leave it there until the cement is set. Use more than one =
lain
tightly end to end if you think you need the length. Be sure they're
straight, though .
A 2X4 is 1-1/2 inches from side to side on the "thin" side, 3-1/2 inches =
on
the "wide" side. Measure the angle iron you're going to use to determine
which side of the 2X4 to embed, and how deep to embed it.
Talk to our dear Mayor, Mel. I'm sure he has plenty lying around.
Best,
Wayne Seidl
I like the idea of a sunken track but am not sure I can build it in the =
real
world. I can get a concrete finisher to make a level pad but getting a
groove in the concrete while wet and still keeping the bottom of it =
level I
don't know. Cutting a slot later would be easier but the cost goes up. I
really like the idea of having track from the kiln room into the studio
glaze area.
snip
Dan & Laurel in Elkmont Al
Pfeiffer Fire Arts
Snail Scott on mon 5 jun 06
At 02:14 PM 6/5/2006 -0400, you wrote:
>I like the idea of a sunken track but am not sure I can build it in the real
>world..
A top-laid track can be moved without changing any
infrastructure: much more amenable to future
remodeling and decision changes. If it needs to
not block the floor, it can be hinged to swing up,
or pegged to lift out.
Another clever design by Albert Pfarr has the angle
tracks on top of and welded to square tubing the same
width - very rigid. These are hinged, and after the
kiln car was rolled into place and dogged down, the
track was swung up to form a sturdy triangle brace
for the kiln car/door.
-Snail
Tom at Hutchtel.net on tue 6 jun 06
Subject: Re: Kiln building supplies
>>I like the idea of a sunken track but am not sure I can build it in the
>>real
>>world..
>
>
> A top-laid track can be moved without changing any
> infrastructure: much more amenable to future
> remodeling and decision changes. If it needs to
> not block the floor, it can be hinged to swing up,
> or pegged to lift out.
I'm going to tag on with snail on this one. I fear your idea of a sunken
track is probably not a great one. Someone else mentioned the issue of
getting crud on the track, and constant cleaning. And that is the problem
of a gutter for the track. It takes very little to make the cart almost
impossible to move. you would have to vacuum the entire length every time
you load. Snails idea of a rev moveable track is very workable.
Drill holes in the mounting tabs on the track and corresponding ones in the
floor. a bolt welded in will act as a locating peg. In our setup I made
the track extensible using this set up (although we've never used it).
The other issue you will have with the sunken track is adjusting the lineup
of the bricks in the cart with those of the kiln body. You'd have to build
in a spacer the depth of the track slot somewhere.
(smart aleck comment) I'm amazed that Vince hasn't told you that you HAVE to
build it with an arch!
Tom Wirt
Hutchinson, MN
twirt@hutchtel.net
www.claycoyote.com
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