Linda Ferzoco on mon 5 jun 06
OK Mike, I hear what you say, but it is much prefered
to have four holes for wire and most of the new pots
are coming from Japan and China that way.
We are all trained to wire in trees if the pot has
only a single hole, but my sensei, Kathy Shaner, and
her sensei, Yasuo Mitsuya, just love those four
holers. You can wire the tree in very nicely around
the perimeter of the root mass and hold the tree close
to the growth medium very tightly.
The contemporary potters here add the extra holes and
it just may be that they've trained us to look for
them.
Cheers, Linda Ferzoco
--- Mike Martino wrote:
> I've heard mention of extra holes for wiring the
> tree into the pot. I
> would like to stress that this is optional. In fact,
> I've only ever seen
> artists use the main drainage holes for this
> purpose, and it works great
> if you know how to do it properly. One feature I
> have seen which is
> nice, is a groove/recess cut across each drainage
> hole under the pot, so
> that the wire/stick/straight thingy holding the tie
> wires in can be
> 'countersunk' so to speak, and it therefore not
> visible when viewing the
> bonsai from a low angle.
>
> I thought of one other rule, if your pot has 3 feet
> then one of the feet
> must be the front of the pot. On most pots this
> means the artist must
> plant the tree with the tree's front being in the
> middle of one of the
> feet, but some pots have a front, from the
> standpoint of glaze or
> painted decoration, and if this is the case, then
> one of the feet should
> be right up there in front.
>
>
> Mike
>
> = == = == = == = == = == =
> Michael Martino
> in Taku, Japan
> karatsupots.blogspot.com
> www.potteryofjapan.com
> = == = == = == = == = == =
>
>
>
> Joan Berkwitz wrote:
> > Being now a "bonsai artist" or bonsaiist, here's a
> little more
> > information on bonsai pots. Traditionally, bonsai
> pots are stoneware (or
> > at least they are high fire and vitreous) but
> there are some potters who
> > make non-vitreous pots. The mythology surrounding
> these pots puzzled me.
> > How can you have a porous high fired pot? (they
> are unglazed) Some
> > research, and talking to potters who went to Japan
> and observed bonsai
> > pots being produced, seems to indicate that a very
> few bonsai pots ARE
> > porous. There seem to be two ways that the
> Japanese potters achieve
> > this: first, they simply underfire. (They fire at
> lower than cone 5).
> > The other way is that they add "wood flour" to the
> clay. "Shigaraki"
> > seems to be the one using wood flour. They want
> the structural strength
> > of the high fire clay, but the porosity of low
> fire clay. They feel that
> > porous clay walls helps the bonsai's root system.
> >
> > If they just used low fire clay bodies,
> apparently, the pots would crack
> > in the frost. So they use the high fire clays, but
> use these other
> > methods to achieve porosity. Remember, the vast
> majority of Japanese
> > bonsai pots are not made this way. The vast
> majority are made of
> > vitreous, high fired, very fine grained stoneware.
> Generally, they are
> > unglazed. Glazes are only used for deciduous
> trees, and fruiting and
> > flowering trees, and smaller trees (under 8").
> >
> > Another excellent and up and coming bonsai potter
> is Dick Ryerson, local
> > to So. California. ( www.dickryerson.com ) He has
> a lovely palette of
> > glaze colors and nice shapes.
> >
> > As for the other bonsai pot rules... yes, drainage
> is important, as are
> > the extra smaller holes for tying down. Also,
> there should be no areas
> > inside the pot where water could puddle. The
> insides are unglazed.
> > Proportion is a matter of individual taste, but
> "heavy" looking pots are
> > considered masculine and go with strong, angular,
> masculine trees.
> > Lighter pots are feminine, and go well with softly
> curving, gentle
> > feminine trees.
> >
> > Good luck! For a great forum about bonsai, google
> "bonsai talk forum".
> > Lots of interactive discussion....
> >
> > Joanie
> >
> >
>
______________________________________________________________________________
> >
> > Send postings to clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
> >
> > You may look at the archives for the list or
> change your subscription
> > settings from http://www.ceramics.org/clayart/
> >
> > Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be
> reached at
> > melpots@pclink.com.
> >
> >
>
>
______________________________________________________________________________
> Send postings to clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
>
> You may look at the archives for the list or change
> your subscription
> settings from http://www.ceramics.org/clayart/
>
> Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be
> reached at melpots@pclink.com.
>
Joan Berkwitz on mon 5 jun 06
Being now a "bonsai artist" or bonsaiist, here's a little more
information on bonsai pots. Traditionally, bonsai pots are stoneware (or
at least they are high fire and vitreous) but there are some potters who
make non-vitreous pots. The mythology surrounding these pots puzzled me.
How can you have a porous high fired pot? (they are unglazed) Some
research, and talking to potters who went to Japan and observed bonsai
pots being produced, seems to indicate that a very few bonsai pots ARE
porous. There seem to be two ways that the Japanese potters achieve
this: first, they simply underfire. (They fire at lower than cone 5).
The other way is that they add "wood flour" to the clay. "Shigaraki"
seems to be the one using wood flour. They want the structural strength
of the high fire clay, but the porosity of low fire clay. They feel that
porous clay walls helps the bonsai's root system.
If they just used low fire clay bodies, apparently, the pots would crack
in the frost. So they use the high fire clays, but use these other
methods to achieve porosity. Remember, the vast majority of Japanese
bonsai pots are not made this way. The vast majority are made of
vitreous, high fired, very fine grained stoneware. Generally, they are
unglazed. Glazes are only used for deciduous trees, and fruiting and
flowering trees, and smaller trees (under 8").
Another excellent and up and coming bonsai potter is Dick Ryerson, local
to So. California. ( www.dickryerson.com ) He has a lovely palette of
glaze colors and nice shapes.
As for the other bonsai pot rules... yes, drainage is important, as are
the extra smaller holes for tying down. Also, there should be no areas
inside the pot where water could puddle. The insides are unglazed.
Proportion is a matter of individual taste, but "heavy" looking pots are
considered masculine and go with strong, angular, masculine trees.
Lighter pots are feminine, and go well with softly curving, gentle
feminine trees.
Good luck! For a great forum about bonsai, google "bonsai talk forum".
Lots of interactive discussion....
Joanie
Sam Kelly on tue 6 jun 06
Are the four holes for the wire above or below the surface of the bonsai
plant, in other words are they visable to the naked eye.
Sam
Linda Ferzoco on tue 6 jun 06
The four holes are in the bottom of the pot, equally
spaced and only visible if you turn the pot over,
which won't be a problem if you have the tree tied in
well.
I'll take some photos of numbers of pots I have and
post them on my google pages later today. Coffee
first.
Cheers, Linda Ferzoco
--- Sam Kelly wrote:
> Are the four holes for the wire above or below the
> surface of the bonsai
> plant, in other words are they visable to the naked
> eye.
>
> Sam
>
>
______________________________________________________________________________
> Send postings to clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
>
> You may look at the archives for the list or change
> your subscription
> settings from http://www.ceramics.org/clayart/
>
> Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be
> reached at melpots@pclink.com.
>
Llewellyn Kouba on tue 6 jun 06
Sam:
The four holes are below the plant. When your piece is leather hard
make holes in the bottom of the vessel. You can do any size but if they
are large latter you can add a wire mesh or plastic mesh to keep the
soil from coming out of the holes until it is settled in. Smaller holes
can be used to run copper wire guide wires up through the dirt if
neccessary to stabilize the plant as well. I just twisted copper wire
around a nail and the nail held the wire secure from pulling up and out
of the dirt. Hope this helps
Llewellyn
Sam Kelly wrote:
>Are the four holes for the wire above or below the surface of the bonsai
>plant, in other words are they visable to the naked eye.
>
>Sam
>
>______________________________________________________________________________
>Send postings to clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
>
>You may look at the archives for the list or change your subscription
>settings from http://www.ceramics.org/clayart/
>
>Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be reached at melpots@pclink.com.
>
>
>
Mike Martino on tue 6 jun 06
I've heard mention of extra holes for wiring the tree into the pot. I
would like to stress that this is optional. In fact, I've only ever seen
artists use the main drainage holes for this purpose, and it works great
if you know how to do it properly. One feature I have seen which is
nice, is a groove/recess cut across each drainage hole under the pot, so
that the wire/stick/straight thingy holding the tie wires in can be
'countersunk' so to speak, and it therefore not visible when viewing the
bonsai from a low angle.
I thought of one other rule, if your pot has 3 feet then one of the feet
must be the front of the pot. On most pots this means the artist must
plant the tree with the tree's front being in the middle of one of the
feet, but some pots have a front, from the standpoint of glaze or
painted decoration, and if this is the case, then one of the feet should
be right up there in front.
Mike
= == = == = == = == = == =
Michael Martino
in Taku, Japan
karatsupots.blogspot.com
www.potteryofjapan.com
= == = == = == = == = == =
Joan Berkwitz wrote:
> Being now a "bonsai artist" or bonsaiist, here's a little more
> information on bonsai pots. Traditionally, bonsai pots are stoneware (or
> at least they are high fire and vitreous) but there are some potters who
> make non-vitreous pots. The mythology surrounding these pots puzzled me.
> How can you have a porous high fired pot? (they are unglazed) Some
> research, and talking to potters who went to Japan and observed bonsai
> pots being produced, seems to indicate that a very few bonsai pots ARE
> porous. There seem to be two ways that the Japanese potters achieve
> this: first, they simply underfire. (They fire at lower than cone 5).
> The other way is that they add "wood flour" to the clay. "Shigaraki"
> seems to be the one using wood flour. They want the structural strength
> of the high fire clay, but the porosity of low fire clay. They feel that
> porous clay walls helps the bonsai's root system.
>
> If they just used low fire clay bodies, apparently, the pots would crack
> in the frost. So they use the high fire clays, but use these other
> methods to achieve porosity. Remember, the vast majority of Japanese
> bonsai pots are not made this way. The vast majority are made of
> vitreous, high fired, very fine grained stoneware. Generally, they are
> unglazed. Glazes are only used for deciduous trees, and fruiting and
> flowering trees, and smaller trees (under 8").
>
> Another excellent and up and coming bonsai potter is Dick Ryerson, local
> to So. California. ( www.dickryerson.com ) He has a lovely palette of
> glaze colors and nice shapes.
>
> As for the other bonsai pot rules... yes, drainage is important, as are
> the extra smaller holes for tying down. Also, there should be no areas
> inside the pot where water could puddle. The insides are unglazed.
> Proportion is a matter of individual taste, but "heavy" looking pots are
> considered masculine and go with strong, angular, masculine trees.
> Lighter pots are feminine, and go well with softly curving, gentle
> feminine trees.
>
> Good luck! For a great forum about bonsai, google "bonsai talk forum".
> Lots of interactive discussion....
>
> Joanie
>
> ______________________________________________________________________________
>
> Send postings to clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
>
> You may look at the archives for the list or change your subscription
> settings from http://www.ceramics.org/clayart/
>
> Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be reached at
> melpots@pclink.com.
>
>
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