Maurice Weitman on tue 6 jun 06
Howdy. I'd appreciate some help from you kiln-savvy clayarters.
I noticed Arnold's mention of the Dear Departed=20
Duncan ES kilns with fiber lids. I tried finding=20
info on the web, but the manual I found barely=20
mentioned the fiber part. I wanted pictures to=20
see how it was constructed. I like pictures. I=20
used to look at Playboy pictures after I read the=20
fine articles (Hef's philosophy made me what I am=20
today).
My Bailey/Evenheat kiln has an inch of fiber over=20
the walls, but the lid and bottom are bare IFB.=20
Since the floor has elements, it's at least as=20
important as the sides to be insulated.
So... I'm thinking of putting the IFB lid under=20
the kiln as added insulation and replace the lid=20
on with a fiber dealie.
I've been told that it's a no-no to leave the=20
steel pan under the existing floor because it=20
will rust/corrode, but I would love to have=20
something structural under the original floor in=20
place of the steel to allow moving the kiln=20
without the lid/bottom.
So... question number one: is there some other=20
material (expanded metal?) I can use that=20
wouldn't rot away?
How about including a layer of rigid fiber=20
between the kiln floor and lid-now-base? Even if=20
it gets quite compressed, I'd like to keep the=20
outer IFB (base) as cool as possible. I thought=20
of adding some (rigid fiber?) "shims" under the=20
perimeter of the kiln to reduce the compression=20
forces of the floor.
I'd love some ideas for constructing a fiber lid.=20
Is a (stainless or sheet or expanded) steel cap=20
and frame with fiber attached with wire and=20
ceramic buttons on the inside the way to go? I=20
was thinking of using two layers (seams offset)=20
of 1", 6# density, 2300=BA blanket (because it's=20
what I have).
And what about spraying the hot side of the fiber lid with ITC?
I've checked Olsen's Kiln Book, Fraser's Electric=20
Kiln book, and Brodie's Energy-Efficient Potter=20
Book for answers with no luck.
Whataya think? Thanks!
Best,
Maurice, in Fairfax, California, where this=20
weekend is the 29th annual Fairfax Festival, and=20
where I've run the parade to kick it off for the=20
past seven years, and yes, I'm immersed in it.=20
Can't wait until Sunday to get back to pots.=20
I've been using a new cone 10 body that uses=20
Michael Wendt's Helmer Kaolin. It throws like a=20
dream, takes a lickin', and I can't wait to glaze=20
fire it. I've been throwing quite dry so that I=20
could bisc it quickly, got some bad attachments=20
when I waited too long on some mug handles, but=20
everything else is delightful so far.
Richard White on wed 7 jun 06
A couple of thoughts - how hot does the bottom surface of your kiln get? Is
it too hot to approach it from underneath with your bare hand? Heat rises,
so the bottom of my kiln is the coolest surface, but having the bottom
elements may make a difference. Also, is your kiln vented? If not, you might
consider how you would do that with a double bottom. The bottom mounted vent
systems with a wall mounted exhaust fan are the best, but that means having
a few very small holes through the brick of the bottom. Holes all the way
through a not-attached-together double bottom might be difficult to keep
aligned.
And about your magazine reading, remember that Playboy is just like National
Geographic - lots of very pretty pictures of really interesting places
you'll never be able to visit.... ;-)
dw
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