Lynn Goodman Porcelain Pottery on wed 7 jun 06
Here are tips that worked for me:
-make sure the mug is wet enough. I found that my mug had to be a
little too soft for my liking before the handle wouldn't crack.
-use vinegar or magic water (check the archives for the recipe) instead
of slip. I found that slip formed too much of a barrier. I apply a drop
of vinegar to one (scored) part, press on the other (scored) part,
jiggle it until it grabs.
-wrap your piece at least overnight or longer, then dry slowly.
Good luck--Lynn
On Jun 7, 2006, at 11:57 AM, Bob Guenthner wrote:
> I've been making mugs lately and have attached the handles by
> pressing/molding the clay into the cup to make it look like it grew
> there and by using slip to attach. I always make the handle right
> after the mug and then attach as soon as I can handle. I always get
> quite a few that then crack around the attachment. Is there something
> wrong with my technique and if there is can anyone give me some
> pointers.
>
> Bobg
>
> _______________________________________________________________________
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>
Lynn Goodman
Fine Porcelain Pottery
548 Court St.
Brooklyn, NY 11231
718-858-6920
Cell 347-526-9805
www.lynngoodmanporcelain.com
Bob Guenthner on wed 7 jun 06
I've been making mugs lately and have attached the handles by =
pressing/molding the clay into the cup to make it look like it grew =
there and by using slip to attach. I always make the handle right after =
the mug and then attach as soon as I can handle. I always get quite a =
few that then crack around the attachment. Is there something wrong =
with my technique and if there is can anyone give me some pointers.
Bobg
claybair on wed 7 jun 06
Bobg,
Try using less rather than more slip when attaching.
I recently discovered that was one of my issues with attachments.
I also cover them with plastic for at least a day.
I've had virtually no cracking since then.
Gayle Bair
Bainbridge Island, WA
Tucson, AZ
http://claybair.com
-----Original Message-----
From: Clayart [mailto:CLAYART@LSV.CERAMICS.ORG]On Behalf Of Bob
Guenthner
Sent: Wednesday, June 07, 2006 8:58 AM
To: CLAYART@LSV.CERAMICS.ORG
Subject: Trouble getting handles not to crack on mugs?
I've been making mugs lately and have attached the handles by
pressing/molding the clay into the cup to make it look like it grew there
and by using slip to attach. I always make the handle right after the mug
and then attach as soon as I can handle. I always get quite a few that then
crack around the attachment. Is there something wrong with my technique and
if there is can anyone give me some pointers.
Bobg
____________________________________________________________________________
__
Send postings to clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
You may look at the archives for the list or change your subscription
settings from http://www.ceramics.org/clayart/
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melpots@pclink.com.
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William & Susan Schran User on wed 7 jun 06
On 6/7/06 11:57 AM, "Bob Guenthner" wrote:
> I always make the handle right after the mug and then attach as soon as I can
> handle. I always get quite a few that then crack around the attachment. Is
> there something wrong with my technique and if there is can anyone give me
> some pointers.
Well, If your handles are cracking, then I guess you are doing something
wrong.
Folks on this list, and those not on this list, will all have different
ways/approaches to this process. I'm sure if you do a search of the archives
you'll discover all sorts of answers.
My first question to you would be: Do you allow your handles to dry slowly
after you've attached them - drying under plastic for days or even weeks?
I'm going to describe how I go about handles and their attachment. You need
to find the way that works best for you. I'd suggest you give all the
suggestions a try and see which works best for your circumstances.
When my cups have dried to leather hard and are ready for finishing, I pull
my handles and lay them out on a canvas covered table. When I've finished
trimming the cups, the handles have dried to the point of not quite leather
hard. They are no longer sticky, can be bent without cracking, but when bent
will hold their curved shape. I score the areas of attachment on the cup and
dab a bit of water on the scored areas, then place a dab of slurry (of the
same clay body) over that. I cut the thicker end of the handle, give a
little score and dab of water and attach this end to the top connection
point. I bend the handle down and when I get the curve and length, I press
the the lower area to the cup. I then cut off the excess length of handle. A
quick clean-up with damp sponge and it's done.
The cups dry sitting on a bare wood ware board.
Dry cleaning plastic is draped over the cups, but not tucked under.
Cups will sit under plastic for a few days, then I'll start moving the
plastic up, exposing the bottoms, allowing the tops to remain covered until
they look completely dry.
Time to make each handle: 30 seconds
Time to attach each handle: 45 seconds to a minute.
This process has evolved over many years.
I have tried other methods.
This works for me.
Others will suggest use only water,
Use spooze,
Use spit,
Gotta hold you tongue right, and so on.
I honestly can't remember the last time I had a handle crack.
As I said before, try all the suggestions and find what works for you.
-- William "Bill" Schran
Fredericksburg, Virginia
wschran@cox.net
wschran@nvcc.edu
Eleanor on thu 8 jun 06
There was a lot of good advice on today's Digest. Add this:
Score the attachment place, wet it with water or slip, slightly wet the
handle at its attachment surface, press it into place and GENTLY, BUT
FIRMLY WIGGLE IT until you can't detach it by (gently) pulling on it.
Score and moisten the bottom of the mug and press the handle on as hard
as you can without distorting the mug. If you can get your hand inside
the mug, you can support the attachment place.
For top and bottom, you can then work the softer clay of the handle to
make it look like it's growing out of the mug.
I have attached handles to leather hard mugs ranging from too soft
--distort too easily-- to almost bone dry . The only time I ever
experienced cracking was at the almost bone dry stage. I make handles
before trimming about half a dozen mugs so the handles have firmed up a
bit. I dry the mugs upside down on shelving that is made of metal
strips--plenty of air circulation. I don't dry slowly under plastic,
etc. My basement studio is dry in winter and humid in summer (I use a
dehumidifier). No matter. No cracks. I think it's the wiggling.
Eleanor Kohler
Centerport, NY
Looking forward to the next Potters Council Regional Conference to be
held here on Long Island in July. I can commute! I just hope it has
stopped raining by then. It's been raining for about a week now;
thinking about building an Ark :-)
Carole Fox on thu 8 jun 06
I also have to fuss with my handles when I'm working with my cone six
porcelain from Standard. I find that if I work a small coil of paper clay
around the area of attachment, I have much less trouble. If you want to add
a coil at the bottom of the handle, pinch one edge flat and put that edge
along the crack between the cup and handle. Work it in with a tool- I use
the handle of a small paint brush.
Carole Fox
Silver Fox Pottery
Elkton, MD
silverfoxpottery@comcast.net
Ron Roy on thu 8 jun 06
Hi Bob,
Sometimes it's the slip - just makes the joint too wet.
You could try defloccing the joining slip - probably the easiest way is to
use just cider vinegar - wet the mug and the handle and press on.
Remember - scoring is to help wet the clay to be joined - rub out any marks
that may allow air to be trapped in a joint - trapped air will only make a
weaker joint.
I never score any more - just rub in some vinegar till the surface clay is
sticky enough to join.
Vinegar works well if the handle is dried out a bit too much and you need
to adjust it - just brush on some vinegar.
I work with porcelain and when I started using vinegar the handles stayed
on all the time.
RR
>I've been making mugs lately and have attached the handles by
>pressing/molding the clay into the cup to make it look like it grew there
>and by using slip to attach. I always make the handle right after the mug
>and then attach as soon as I can handle. I always get quite a few that
>then crack around the attachment. Is there something wrong with my
>technique and if there is can anyone give me some pointers.
>
>Bobg
Ron Roy
RR#4
15084 Little Lake Road
Brighton, Ontario
Canada
K0K 1H0
Charles Reese Salmon on thu 8 jun 06
I have had no problems with cracking when I use the following method with
stoneware (with porcelain it is the same process but instead of slip I use
a very small amount of water on both the 'blank' handle and the cup):
Wait until the cups are just stiff enough to hold their shape and then
pull a bunch of 'blanks' (just stubbs of clay in the general shape of a
handle only thicker).Next, I work the clay on the end of the blank I am
going to attach to the cup so that it is the proper profile. I then slip
and score both the blank and the cup. After that I press the blank firmly
into the cup until the slip oozes out of the sides. I then pull the handle
off of the cup(holding the cup horizontally in the air). Once the proper
thickness and shape of the handle is achieved, I then strike the arch of
the handle and attach the loose end to the cup(no slip or score
needed).
Lee Love on thu 8 jun 06
Bob, when do the cracks first appear? Can you put up photos of
the examples?
I usually pull handles first, let them dry a little and then
cover them. I make the bodies after I pull the handles.
I examine the handles multiple times. You can take a
burnishing stick, mine are made of bamboo, but you can make one out of
a disposible chopstick or any stick for that matter, and I burnish the
seam of the handles if any crack appears. You can do this after the
bisque too.
Good luck!
--
Lee in Mashiko, Japan
http://mashiko.org
My google Notebooks:
http://tinyurl.com/e5p3n
"Let the beauty we love be what we do." - Rumi
fran johnson on fri 9 jun 06
Eleanor,
About the regional potters council meeting on the
island in July. I don't belong but plan to be in the
area then and would like to attend. Could you send me
info about the meeting and membership ? I appreciate
any help you can provide.
BTW-where is Centerport in relation to Coram?
Thanks ,
Fran Bellucci Johnson
--- Eleanor wrote:
> There was a lot of good advice on today's Digest.
> Add this:
>
> Score the attachment place, wet it with water or
> slip, slightly wet the
> handle at its attachment surface, press it into
> place and GENTLY, BUT
> FIRMLY WIGGLE IT until you can't detach it by
> (gently) pulling on it.
>
> Score and moisten the bottom of the mug and press
> the handle on as hard
> as you can without distorting the mug. If you can
> get your hand inside
> the mug, you can support the attachment place.
>
> For top and bottom, you can then work the softer
> clay of the handle to
> make it look like it's growing out of the mug.
>
> I have attached handles to leather hard mugs ranging
> from too soft
> --distort too easily-- to almost bone dry . The only
> time I ever
> experienced cracking was at the almost bone dry
> stage. I make handles
> before trimming about half a dozen mugs so the
> handles have firmed up a
> bit. I dry the mugs upside down on shelving that is
> made of metal
> strips--plenty of air circulation. I don't dry
> slowly under plastic,
> etc. My basement studio is dry in winter and humid
> in summer (I use a
> dehumidifier). No matter. No cracks. I think it's
> the wiggling.
>
> Eleanor Kohler
> Centerport, NY
>
> Looking forward to the next Potters Council Regional
> Conference to be
> held here on Long Island in July. I can commute! I
> just hope it has
> stopped raining by then. It's been raining for about
> a week now;
> thinking about building an Ark :-)
>
>
______________________________________________________________________________
> Send postings to clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
>
> You may look at the archives for the list or change
> your subscription
> settings from http://www.ceramics.org/clayart/
>
> Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be
> reached at melpots@pclink.com.
>
Kathy Forer on fri 9 jun 06
On Jun 8, 2006, at 2:08 PM, Ron Roy wrote:
> You could try defloccing the joining slip - probably the easiest
> way is to
> use just cider vinegar - wet the mug and the handle and press on.
Hi Ron
Is there a reason to use cider vinegar and not plain old 'white'
vinegar?
Kathy
Ron Roy on sat 10 jun 06
Hi Kathy,
Good question - I really don't know - I think someone once told me that
cider vinegar was better. Perhaps more acidic? That would make it better.
Perhaps - to whoever told me that - the smell was better.
Perhaps it's because those who recommend it for medical reasons think it's
better.
Do we need to do an experiment?
Best regards - R
>> You could try defloccing the joining slip - probably the easiest
>> way is to
>> use just cider vinegar - wet the mug and the handle and press on.
>
>Hi Ron
>
>Is there a reason to use cider vinegar and not plain old 'white'
>vinegar?
>
>Kathy
Ron Roy
RR#4
15084 Little Lake Road
Brighton, Ontario
Canada
K0K 1H0
Lee Love on sun 11 jun 06
Lemon juice is one of the most acidic liquids we have in the kitchen.
I suppose that is why people do "the lemon test."
--
Lee in Mashiko, Japan
http://mashiko.org
My google Notebooks:
http://tinyurl.com/e5p3n
"Let the beauty we love be what we do." - Rumi
Ivor and Olive Lewis on sun 11 jun 06
Cathy Forer asks Ron Roy,
"Is there a reason to use cider vinegar and not plain old 'white' =
vinegar?"
This is not an easy question to answer intuitively because Acids are =
usually thought to flocculate. So, except for the Darvan and Dispex type =
deflocculants, most of the things that are recommended are Bases =
(Alkali), such as Sodium Carbonate and Sodium Silicate and Vinegars are =
Acids. In addition, how much do we know about Cider Vinegar. Any answer =
will need to account for the composition of that product.=20
I seem to recall a similar discussion within the past twelve months.
Best regards
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