Bert Gibson on fri 30 jun 06
Experimented with colored slips to see how they would work for possible =
use for scene painting. I used stains mixed with slip made from the clay =
body. Fired to Cone 10R with a clear glaze. As you can see alot of the =
color burned out. I might try the same experiment with Cone 6.
Anyway, thought I would share. This link is to the colored slip on =
greenware. Click on the foward arrow to see after Bisque and after Glaze =
firing.
http://home.comcast.net/~mc6gtest/wsb/html/view.cgi-photo.html--SiteID-28=
57020.html
Bert Gibson
Lynn Goodman Porcelain Pottery on fri 30 jun 06
Two things may be happening. The reduction kills a lot of stains. Also,
if you have zinc in your glaze, that will kill chrome-tin colors (reds,
purples, pinks). Try using stains without chrome-tin elements. It's not
so much the temp.--it's the glaze and reduction.
Lynn
On Jun 30, 2006, at 3:17 PM, Bert Gibson wrote:
> Experimented with colored slips to see how they would work for
> possible use for scene painting. I used stains mixed with slip made
> from the clay body. Fired to Cone 10R with a clear glaze. As you can
> see alot of the color burned out. I might try the same experiment with
> Cone 6.
>
> Anyway, thought I would share. This link is to the colored slip on
> greenware. Click on the foward arrow to see after Bisque and after
> Glaze firing.
>
> http://home.comcast.net/~mc6gtest/wsb/html/view.cgi-photo.html--
> SiteID-2857020.html
>
> Bert Gibson
>
> _______________________________________________________________________
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>
>
Lynn Goodman
Fine Porcelain Pottery
548 Court St.
Brooklyn, NY 11231
718-858-6920
Cell 347-526-9805
www.lynngoodmanporcelain.com
Kitty on sun 2 jul 06
Mason stains, mainly the red family, need a calcium-rich glaze with no
zinc and little to no magnesium.
According to the website, they also don't do well in reduction.
~Kitty
Bert Gibson wrote:
>Experimented with colored slips to see how they would work for possible use for scene painting. I used stains mixed with slip made from the clay body. Fired to Cone 10R with a clear glaze. As you can see alot of the color burned out. I might try the same experiment with Cone 6.
>
>Anyway, thought I would share. This link is to the colored slip on greenware. Click on the foward arrow to see after Bisque and after Glaze firing.
>
>http://home.comcast.net/~mc6gtest/wsb/html/view.cgi-photo.html--SiteID-2857020.html
>
>Bert Gibson
>
>______________________________________________________________________________
>Send postings to clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
>
>You may look at the archives for the list or change your subscription
>settings from http://www.ceramics.org/clayart/
>
>Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be reached at melpots@pclink.com.
>
>
>
>
Pamela Annarilli on sun 17 aug 08
I used a slip recipe at Penn State University that held colors even in cone
10 reduction. The white base recipe posted on the wall was as follows:
Grolleg---------- 1500
EPK--------------- 750
XX Sager--------1250
Neph. Syenit---750
Silica--------------750
Black-----Red Iron Oxide----------300
Manganese Dioxide---200
Cobalt Ox.----------------200
Chrome Ox.--------------150
Dark Blue:--------------Cobalt---------200
I also used mason stains mixed in with the white base slip and it held up
great in cone 10 reduction. My problem was and still is that I can not find a
glossy clear glaze that remains clear and does not turn opaque when the pots
are dipped or brushed with the clear glaze.
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gayle bair on sun 17 aug 08
Pamela,
Thanks for the slip recipe.
I find if I thin down any clear glaze (lite cream to whole milk
consistancy) it remains clear and doesn't get milky.
Often I just want a sheen on the outside of my pot I thin that to
about skim milk consistency.
Also I do not hold it for a count. when it's that thin the decoration
is visible through the film of glaze.
I've done this ^5-7 oxidation and ^10 reduction.
Gayle Bair - old PA girl
Bainbridge Island WA
Tucson AZ
gayle@claybair.com
www.claybair.com
On Aug 17, 2008, at 6:52 AM, Pamela Annarilli wrote:
> I used a slip recipe at Penn State University that held colors even
> in cone
> 10 reduction. The white base recipe posted on the wall was as
> follows:
>
> Grolleg---------- 1500
> EPK--------------- 750
> XX Sager--------1250
> Neph. Syenit---750
> Silica--------------750
>
> Black-----Red Iron Oxide----------300
> Manganese Dioxide---200
> Cobalt Ox.----------------200
> Chrome Ox.--------------150
>
>
> Dark Blue:--------------Cobalt---------200
>
> I also used mason stains mixed in with the white base slip and it
> held up
> great in cone 10 reduction. My problem was and still is that I can
> not find a
> glossy clear glaze that remains clear and does not turn opaque when
> the pots
> are dipped or brushed with the clear glaze.
>
>
>
>
> **************Looking for a car that's sporty, fun and fits in your
> budget?
> Read reviews on AOL Autos.
> (http://autos.aol.com/cars-Volkswagen-Jetta-2009/expert-review?ncid=aolaut00030000000007
> )
Pamela Annarilli on tue 19 aug 08
Dear Gayle,
Thank you for the suggestion of thinning down a clear glaze! What a
simple yet brilliant idea! Do you have a cone 10 clear glaze recipe that you
have done this with before and are willing to share?
Many thanks,
Pam
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John Britt on thu 21 aug 08
Pam,
Here is a real nice clear:
Shaner Clear Cone 10
Custer Feldspar 32.0
Whiting 16.8
Silica 32.0
Kaolin 14.1
Dolomite 5.1
Thanks,
John Britt
www.johnbrittpottery.com/wks.htm
http://ncclayclub.blogspot.com/
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