Carolyn Boeri on wed 19 jul 06
Hi all,
I hope someone can help me. I am trying to turn my old, small, 12cu' =
downdraft gas kiln into a salt kiln. It has 2 layers of hard brick and =
an outer layer of old castable that flaked off the sides. The chimney is =
also too short, that I know. I was having a difficult time getting it up =
to cone 10 with the short chimney and castable off, so I abandoned it =
for awhile when some friends and I built a large 2 chamber norborigama =
on the property. Now I want to fire more often alone, since the gang of =
wood firers are into other things now, I think salt or soda will get me =
what I want.
The question is, has anyone applied castable? What is the technique that =
will keep it on.
The gas company has been by, and there is not problem with the pressure =
gauge. All I need to to is insulate and build a higher chimney. Anyone =
have suggestions?
Carolyn, finally the heat wave has passed.
Marcia Selsor on wed 19 jul 06
Where do you live?
I would go on ebay and get a roll of fiber insulation for the
exterior of your kiln. Then you could mix a castable and coat it.
Also mix a hi fire castable, add 5% alumina for the interior and coat
your walls. Maybe put in a salt resist trough in the bag walls so you
don't completely destroy the interior of your kiln. I would recommend
doing soda in water solution
for your soda firings. It is a little less corrosive and doesn't
sludge up in the bag walls.
Marcia Selsor
http://marciaselsor.com
darrell calhoun on thu 20 jul 06
Ruthanne Tudball's book "Soda Glazing" has very good advice on castable recipes and application. I bought my copy for only $4 on Amazon.com. Also companies like Harbison-Walker can give great advice on their castable products.
Carolyn Boeri wrote: Hi all,
I hope someone can help me. I am trying to turn my old, small, 12cu' downdraft gas kiln into a salt kiln. It has 2 layers of hard brick and an outer layer of old castable that flaked off the sides. The chimney is also too short, that I know. I was having a difficult time getting it up to cone 10 with the short chimney and castable off, so I abandoned it for awhile when some friends and I built a large 2 chamber norborigama on the property. Now I want to fire more often alone, since the gang of wood firers are into other things now, I think salt or soda will get me what I want.
The question is, has anyone applied castable? What is the technique that will keep it on.
The gas company has been by, and there is not problem with the pressure gauge. All I need to to is insulate and build a higher chimney. Anyone have suggestions?
Carolyn, finally the heat wave has passed.
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Andy Misner on fri 21 jul 06
Hi Carolyn, and Darrell;
The best way to apply insulating castible is to have some kind of "STAINLESS
STEEL" to anchor it to (preferably 330 grade or higher for the temps your
talking about. We use what we call V anchors but you could get away with
stainless steel bolts or something of that nature. Make sure when you do use
anchors to coat the end that is in the castable with a wrap of Duct tape
for the steel to expand. Steel expands 10 times the amount as the castable does.
We sell a full line of refractory products and have many years of experience.
Andy Misner
Industrial Firebrick
www.indfirebrick.com
On Thu, 20 Jul 2006 06:41:21 -0700, darrell calhoun
wrote:
>Ruthanne Tudball's book "Soda Glazing" has very good advice on castable
recipes and application. I bought my copy for only $4 on Amazon.com. Also
companies like Harbison-Walker can give great advice on their castable products.
>
>Carolyn Boeri wrote: Hi all,
>I hope someone can help me. I am trying to turn my old, small, 12cu'
downdraft gas kiln into a salt kiln. It has 2 layers of hard brick and an
outer layer of old castable that flaked off the sides. The chimney is also
too short, that I know. I was having a difficult time getting it up to cone
10 with the short chimney and castable off, so I abandoned it for awhile
when some friends and I built a large 2 chamber norborigama on the property.
Now I want to fire more often alone, since the gang of wood firers are into
other things now, I think salt or soda will get me what I want.
>The question is, has anyone applied castable? What is the technique that
will keep it on.
>The gas company has been by, and there is not problem with the pressure
gauge. All I need to to is insulate and build a higher chimney. Anyone have
suggestions?
>Carolyn, finally the heat wave has passed.
>
>______________________________________________________________________________
>Send postings to clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
>
>You may look at the archives for the list or change your subscription
>settings from http://www.ceramics.org/clayart/
>
>Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be reached at melpots@pclink.com.
>
>
>
>---------------------------------
>Yahoo! Music Unlimited - Access over 1 million songs.Try it free.
>
>______________________________________________________________________________
>Send postings to clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
>
>You may look at the archives for the list or change your subscription
>settings from http://www.ceramics.org/clayart/
>
>Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be reached at melpots@pclink.com.
Carolyn Boeri on fri 21 jul 06
Thank you Andy.
Carolyn, from beautiful (today) Vermont!!
----- Original Message -----
From: "Andy Misner"
To:
Sent: Friday, July 21, 2006 9:43 AM
Subject: Re: applying insulating castable
> Hi Carolyn, and Darrell;
>
> The best way to apply insulating castible is to have some kind of
"STAINLESS
> STEEL" to anchor it to (preferably 330 grade or higher for the temps your
> talking about. We use what we call V anchors but you could get away with
> stainless steel bolts or something of that nature. Make sure when you do
use
> anchors to coat the end that is in the castable with a wrap of Duct tape
> for the steel to expand. Steel expands 10 times the amount as the castable
does.
> We sell a full line of refractory products and have many years of
experience.
>
> Andy Misner
> Industrial Firebrick
> www.indfirebrick.com
>
>
> On Thu, 20 Jul 2006 06:41:21 -0700, darrell calhoun
> wrote:
>
> >Ruthanne Tudball's book "Soda Glazing" has very good advice on castable
> recipes and application. I bought my copy for only $4 on Amazon.com.
Also
> companies like Harbison-Walker can give great advice on their castable
products.
> >
> >Carolyn Boeri wrote: Hi all,
> >I hope someone can help me. I am trying to turn my old, small, 12cu'
> downdraft gas kiln into a salt kiln. It has 2 layers of hard brick and an
> outer layer of old castable that flaked off the sides. The chimney is also
> too short, that I know. I was having a difficult time getting it up to
cone
> 10 with the short chimney and castable off, so I abandoned it for awhile
> when some friends and I built a large 2 chamber norborigama on the
property.
> Now I want to fire more often alone, since the gang of wood firers are
into
> other things now, I think salt or soda will get me what I want.
> >The question is, has anyone applied castable? What is the technique that
> will keep it on.
> >The gas company has been by, and there is not problem with the pressure
> gauge. All I need to to is insulate and build a higher chimney. Anyone
have
> suggestions?
> >Carolyn, finally the heat wave has passed.
> >
>
>___________________________________________________________________________
___
> >Send postings to clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
> >
> >You may look at the archives for the list or change your subscription
> >settings from http://www.ceramics.org/clayart/
> >
> >Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be reached at
melpots@pclink.com.
> >
> >
> >
> >---------------------------------
> >Yahoo! Music Unlimited - Access over 1 million songs.Try it free.
> >
>
>___________________________________________________________________________
___
> >Send postings to clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
> >
> >You may look at the archives for the list or change your subscription
> >settings from http://www.ceramics.org/clayart/
> >
> >Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be reached at
melpots@pclink.com.
>
>
____________________________________________________________________________
__
> Send postings to clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
>
> You may look at the archives for the list or change your subscription
> settings from http://www.ceramics.org/clayart/
>
> Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be reached at
melpots@pclink.com.
Carolyn Boeri on tue 25 jul 06
Hi Marcia,
Thanks for your reply, I live in Vermont. I thought about fiber, and am
still toying with the idea, although I would prefer to use castable. Either
way I go, I just want to know the way I apply it is going to work. Since the
outside walls of the sprung arch kiln are straight, how does one attach the
fiber to the outside walls?
I like the idea of the wash on the inside walls, I was going to just spray
them with ITC. Bob Compton mentioned painting the inside walls with zircon
and wallpaper paste. Yes. I plan on spraying soda in. I am gathering
people's thoughts, don't want to rush into something I am sorry about later,
although I see it as an experiment and a learning experience.
I will let you know how it all shakes out.
Best,
Carolyn
----- Original Message -----
From: "Marcia Selsor"
To:
Sent: Wednesday, July 19, 2006 2:00 PM
Subject: Re: applying insulating castable
> Where do you live?
> I would go on ebay and get a roll of fiber insulation for the
> exterior of your kiln. Then you could mix a castable and coat it.
> Also mix a hi fire castable, add 5% alumina for the interior and coat
> your walls. Maybe put in a salt resist trough in the bag walls so you
> don't completely destroy the interior of your kiln. I would recommend
> doing soda in water solution
> for your soda firings. It is a little less corrosive and doesn't
> sludge up in the bag walls.
>
>
> Marcia Selsor
> http://marciaselsor.com
>
>
____________________________________________________________________________
__
> Send postings to clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
>
> You may look at the archives for the list or change your subscription
> settings from http://www.ceramics.org/clayart/
>
> Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be reached at
melpots@pclink.com.
Marcia Selsor on tue 25 jul 06
You could use a fiber board on the sides and blanket on the top.
ITC inside is perfect.
There is a sodium silicate glue you could make but that would react
with soda.
Marcia
On Jul 25, 2006, at 6:38 AM, Carolyn Boeri wrote:
> Hi Marcia,
> Thanks for your reply, I live in Vermont. I thought about fiber,
> and am
> still toying with the idea, although I would prefer to use
> castable. Either
> way I go, I just want to know the way I apply it is going to work.
> Since the
> outside walls of the sprung arch kiln are straight, how does one
> attach the
> fiber to the outside walls?
> I like the idea of the wash on the inside walls, I was going to
> just spray
> them with ITC. Bob Compton mentioned painting the inside walls with
> zircon
> and wallpaper paste. Yes. I plan on spraying soda in. I am gathering
> people's thoughts, don't want to rush into something I am sorry
> about later,
> although I see it as an experiment and a learning experience.
> I will let you know how it all shakes out.
> Best,
> Carolyn
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Marcia Selsor"
> To:
> Sent: Wednesday, July 19, 2006 2:00 PM
> Subject: Re: applying insulating castable
>
>
>> Where do you live?
>> I would go on ebay and get a roll of fiber insulation for the
>> exterior of your kiln. Then you could mix a castable and coat it.
>> Also mix a hi fire castable, add 5% alumina for the interior and coat
>> your walls. Maybe put in a salt resist trough in the bag walls so you
>> don't completely destroy the interior of your kiln. I would recommend
>> doing soda in water solution
>> for your soda firings. It is a little less corrosive and doesn't
>> sludge up in the bag walls.
>>
>>
>> Marcia Selsor
>> http://marciaselsor.com
>>
>>
> ______________________________________________________________________
> ______
> __
>> Send postings to clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
>>
>> You may look at the archives for the list or change your subscription
>> settings from http://www.ceramics.org/clayart/
>>
>> Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be reached at
> melpots@pclink.com.
>
> ______________________________________________________________________
> ________
> Send postings to clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
>
> You may look at the archives for the list or change your subscription
> settings from http://www.ceramics.org/clayart/
>
> Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be reached at
> melpots@pclink.com.
>
Marcia Selsor
http://marciaselsor.com
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