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firing lids

updated wed 26 jul 06

 

Lynne Antone on mon 24 jul 06


I have been firing lids lately and have a dilemma. These are tops for birdfeeders, glazed entirely except for a two inch area inside the lid where I place a short post to fire them. The problem is that it is so hard to place the post properly, keep my arm out of the way and set all on the shelf. I used a dental mirror this morning to make sure the post is in the proper place, but what a pain. The glaze-free area is wax resisted, but I could mask it with latex and peel to make an absorbent area or wipe the glaze off that area, just one more step I'd like to avoid.

Any advice on a way to temporarily glue the post to the glaze-free area and fire? I fire cone 6 electric.

Lynne Antone

--
Beaver Creek Arts
Olympia WA
USA

Snail Scott on mon 24 jul 06


At 04:37 PM 7/24/2006 +0000, you wrote:
>...a way to temporarily glue the post to the glaze-free area and fire?


Elmer's Glue. -Snail

John Rodgers on mon 24 jul 06


Lynne,

I would think that while the lids, etc are in bisque stage, you could
use Elmer's glue or something like that - even cyanoacrylate and glue a
post exactly where you want it, then apply the resist, then apply the
glaze. The two pieces will be as one when you set them in place, and the
glue will burn out when fired to cone 6 thereby releasing the two from
each other. I think the elmers glue trick is used a lot in Crystal
glazing. The glaze is so runny that a special base like a catch basin
has to be made and glued into place to carry the piece until firing is
done, then the seam line is ground off. With the glue burned out, the
two pieces separate easily when the glaze is ground off along the join line.

John Rodgers
Chelsea, Al

Lynne Antone wrote:
> I have been firing lids lately and have a dilemma. These are tops for birdfeeders, glazed entirely except for a two inch area inside the lid where I place a short post to fire them. The problem is that it is so hard to place the post properly, keep my arm out of the way and set all on the shelf. I used a dental mirror this morning to make sure the post is in the proper place, but what a pain. The glaze-free area is wax resisted, but I could mask it with latex and peel to make an absorbent area or wipe the glaze off that area, just one more step I'd like to avoid.
>
> Any advice on a way to temporarily glue the post to the glaze-free area and fire? I fire cone 6 electric.
>
> Lynne Antone
>
> --
> Beaver Creek Arts
> Olympia WA
> USA
>
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claybair on mon 24 jul 06


Hi Lynne,
Why don't you custom make some
posts that fit right. I've used small balls of bisque clay
to raise pieces off the shelf. Or try using elmers glue to
attach your current posts. If you glue them upside down
you can see what you're doing. Wait until the glue dries and turn them over.
I've used the Elmers glue to attach glaze catching cookies to the bottom of
pots.
It stuck really well and burned right off. That was in a gas kiln but I
don't see why it wouldn't work in the electric as well. I wonder if putting
some alumina hydrate
in it would be of any use?
I'm looking forward to seeing you at Port Gamble this weekend.
Gayle Bair
Bainbridge Island, WA
Tucson, AZ
http://claybair.com

-----Original Message-----
From: Lynne Antone

I have been firing lids lately and have a dilemma. These are tops for
birdfeeders, glazed entirely except for a two inch area inside the lid where
I place a short post to fire them. The problem is that it is so hard to
place the post properly, keep my arm out of the way and set all on the
shelf. I used a dental mirror this morning to make sure the post is in the
proper place, but what a pain. The glaze-free area is wax resisted, but I
could mask it with latex and peel to make an absorbent area or wipe the
glaze off that area, just one more step I'd like to avoid.

Any advice on a way to temporarily glue the post to the glaze-free area and
fire? I fire cone 6 electric.

Lynne Antone

--
Beaver Creek Arts
Olympia WA
USA

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Lynne Antone on tue 25 jul 06


Thanks for all the advice on using Elmer's glue for the posts. Not knowing what was in the glue, I was afraid some residue might be in it that would cause a problem. I have a load firing right now. It was so hot in the kiln room last night that the pieces glued together almost instantly. Will let you know how the firing and release of the posts goes.

See you in a couple of days, Gayle. The truck is all packed except for these last pots.

Lynne Antone
So much cooler this morning, a nice cloud cover. The sun tends to scare us here, we fall to our knees and cover our heads when it is out. No, but it sure is tough to sleep at night.

--
Beaver Creek Arts
Olympia WA
USA

Kathi LeSueur on tue 25 jul 06


Lynne Antone wrote:

>I have been firing lids lately and have a dilemma. These are tops for birdfeeders, glazed entirely except for a two inch area inside the lid where I place a short post to fire them. The problem is that it is so hard to place the post properly, keep my arm out of the way and set all on the shelf. I used a dental mirror this morning to make sure the post is in the proper place, but what a pain. The glaze-free area is wax resisted, but I could mask it with latex and peel to make an absorbent area or wipe the glaze off that area, just one more step I'd like to avoid.
>
>
>
>
Why not just make some clay props to use that are curved on the top. Wax
them in place before setting in the kiln. Then after firing you can just
pop them off and use them again. If you have a problem with them
sticking to the lids, add some alumina hydrate to your wax.

Kathi