Ann Baker on thu 10 aug 06
I just set up my new Bailey DRDII and am having some frustration, I'm
hoping for advice.
My problem is in piecing the chunks of clay together to make a nice wide
and long slab. I'm getting seams that split easily or sometimes air
bubbles. I really don't have the strength (or time) to wedge a piece of
clay that large so I don't have to join pieces. Is there a trick I'm
missing? I'm putting the pieces close together and joining them a little
before rolling. I bought this model because I thought it would allow me
to easily make large slabs in one pass unlike the 3 passes I had to do on
the North Star, but it's not working out that way, also it's really
hard to do a second run as the feed side of the table is so short. HELP!!!
Ann B
William & Susan Schran User on fri 11 aug 06
On 8/10/06 8:08 PM, "Ann Baker" wrote:
> My problem is in piecing the chunks of clay together to make a nice wide
> and long slab. I'm getting seams that split easily or sometimes air
> bubbles. I really don't have the strength (or time) to wedge a piece of
> clay that large so I don't have to join pieces. Is there a trick I'm
> missing?=20
When I instruct my students on the methods using our Bailey DRDII and they
want a wider slab, I suggest two ways.
First, when using two wedges side by side, instead of butting them against
each other, over lap them, draw clay across the seam with fingers on both
sides, then pound with a board or rolling pin until the overlapping bulge i=
s
level with the rest of the clay.
Second, send a single wedge through the roller once thicker than want is
needed, turn the slab 180=B0 and send through roller again with thickness set
where needed.
Hope this helps,=20
-- William "Bill" Schran
Fredericksburg, Virginia
wschran@cox.net
wschran@nvcc.edu
Gordon Ward on fri 11 aug 06
Hi Ann B,
How much clay are you forming into a slab? What are the finished
dimensions of the desired slab? How think is the slab? How much
clay can you lift easily?
Answers to these questions may help with an answer, if not from me
but other slabbers out there.
Gordon
On Aug 10, 2006, at 5:08 PM, Ann Baker wrote:
> I just set up my new Bailey DRDII and am having some frustration, I'm
> hoping for advice.
>
> My problem is in piecing the chunks of clay together to make a nice
> wide
> and long slab. I'm getting seams that split easily or sometimes air
> bubbles. I really don't have the strength (or time) to wedge a
> piece of
> clay that large so I don't have to join pieces. Is there a trick I'm
> missing? I'm putting the pieces close together and joining them a
> little
> before rolling. I bought this model because I thought it would
> allow me
> to easily make large slabs in one pass unlike the 3 passes I had to
> do on
> the North Star, but it's not working out that way, also it's really
> hard to do a second run as the feed side of the table is so short.
> HELP!!!
>
> Ann B
Jeanie Silver on fri 11 aug 06
Dear Anne
It sounds as if your's close to being able to get good, competent big
slabs...I do it by wedging each piece well-shingling them with a
considerable overlap(2-3")- pounding the joins- trimming the lateral edges
so that I get a regular rectangle. Most important may be, after the slab is
made,trimming the edges about an inch around, so thyat you are not using
clay stressed by the forming process...Good Luck.
Jeanie in Pa.
Donald G. Goldsobel on sat 12 aug 06
How log is long?
I use linoleum cut to 24 inch widths and as long as practical to handle. My
longest is 36 inches. I use a counter, not the company manufactured table.
If you do not have enough room on the feed side, set up a temporary
extension, or get someone to help. Joining the slabs together doesn't solve
the problem of handling the soft slab--which is why the linoleum is so much
easier than canvas. Transporting the slab without support results in tears
and uneven stretching. Something less expensive that may work, but is
untested by this potter, is tar paper aka roofing felt. Not as durable as
lino, but cheap enough that if it tears, you won't fuss over the cost. I get
my lino at Home Depot- If they have a roll end of good thick stuff, they
will sell it discount as a remnant.
Good luck
D
Snail Scott on mon 14 aug 06
At 08:08 PM 8/10/2006 -0400, you wrote:
>...My problem is in piecing the chunks of clay together to make a nice wide
>and long slab...
When I lay out chunks to make a slab,
whether with a slabroller or rolling pin,
I taper the edges of the chunk that's
laid down already (whack it with the
heel of my hand) before I put the next
chunk down and smack it down along the
joint. I try for about two inches of
angled overlap at each joint; no butt
joints. The more the edges taper, the
less of an apparent joint will remain
after rolling. As with joining any other
clay parts to one another, surface gaps
in a joint are the starting point for
cracks to begin and run deeper. Also,
the more of an angle the joint has,
the stronger it will be, since cracks
generally want to run straight through
by the shortest route. If your joint
at a low angle, it's less likely to
provide a vulnerable route for cracks.
-Snail
Ann Baker on mon 14 aug 06
Thanks for all the info everyone sent! It's ALL been helpful and I'm now
getting successful slabs. Also wanted to thank Neil at Bailey for calling
me first thing the next day, he gave me tons of good advice and info to
help me understand the cause of the problem as well as the solution. My
experience with Bailey this year has been great so I thought I'd give 'em
an endorsment, I will definately continue to purchase from them!
Ann B
beardiepaw on wed 16 aug 06
Since my post did not come through, and Ann's did, I would also like to
thank everyone for their imput on my questions about the bailey slab roller.
It has been a great help. So thanks to all, public and private. I
appreciate it.
Sherry Morrow
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