Janine Roubik on fri 22 sep 06
Hey Taylor,
I'm, for the most part, quoting John Britt here, but he's never steered me wrong...
Shinos should be fairly thin. Specific gravity 125-140. But the last one I did seemed really thin at 140, so maybe try single dipping some and double dipping others. If you have time, glaze it and let it sit for a while to let the soda ash migrate to the surface. That's supposed to help with the flashing and any carbon trap you might get. Try sparying soda ash and warm water mixture on things, too. It seemed to make it "pearlier" for me. They "usually" don't too too great with other glazes, but if you find anything good let us know!
Copper reds. The way I do it is quick dip the whole peice and then second dip the top half. Looks like sp. gr.155 is pretty standard for these babies.
Your custer white, I don't know. I'd try maybe 155 sp. gr, based on the amt of custer and clay? Hmmm...
Temmoku. Looks like they can go anywhere sp. gr. 150 - 160. That's a dang lotta iron you got in there. Post a photo of this somewhere when you get a chance. Try the red and the blue over the temmoku. I've tried temmoku over shino, just for accents and drawing, but it would overpower the whole peide, I think.
The Tracy's Blue...Most rutiles are rumored as runny. I mixed my first one at 150 or so but then felt I had to go thicker. Also post this one if you get a chance.
The ohata kaki also has a pretty broad range in the terms of specific gravity. 130-145
Oops, I just erased the recipe. The book says if it's higher in alumina and silica they can be mixed closer to 160. BUT!!! oxidation is recomended. I think it m,ight be murkier in reduction. I remember using an ohata in reduction at school, but I can't remember much else.
>>BTW, I will be firing these glazes to 012 to harden them on the bisque
for travel. Is that going to do something bad to the shino for
example?
I don't think so. A lot of people do that.
>>>There is some chance of bisquing on a glaze and then adding
another, scratching etc and firing again. Any thoughts?
Ooh , you could try scratching through, laying a glaze on and then wiping it back, so it sticks in the scratched lines.
Well, I'm not a glaze genius, but I thought I'd try to help with what I could. All the specific gravities I've recommended I'd try with a single dip. Single dip for me is dunking in the bucket, counting to 2, then pulling it out and blowing the glaze off the footring/waxed areas. But, of cpourse, since our doing a bunch of tests try some with a double dip,too. Go hog wild and layer test every combo ya got! But write down what you do (that's where I screw up!)
Good luck!
Janine Roubik
Victoria Hamilton on fri 22 sep 06
Hi Taylor -
About the shino - generally the thinner the glaze application, the more
orange/brown you'll get. If you apply it thicker, it will get creamy/white.
Depends on your claybody and when you start your reduction and how long you
let it go.
About the tenmoku - I use Mark's Tenmoku and my experience with it is that
it's remarkably lovely. On stoneware I get more brick/red/brown breaking to
black. On porcelain I get more black breaking to the brick/red/brown -
sometimes with a lovely gold teadust. Often I apply a rutile stain pretty
thick in places over this glaze - lovely gold.
About the Ohata - make sure you get enough glaze on the pot.
Good luck.
I'm especially interested in the rutile blue. I'd love to see how it comes
out after your firing.
Vicki Hamilton
Millennia Antica Pottery
Seattle, WA, where it's gorgeous blue, warm and sunny today. Of course over
the last few days it's been cold, gray and rainy so I picked all my green
tomatoes, brought them in and put them in a paper sack! So, today I put
them all out on the back porch in a pyrex dish to sit in the sun!
-----Original Message-----
From: Clayart [mailto:CLAYART@LSV.CERAMICS.ORG] On Behalf Of Taylor Hendrix
Sent: Friday, September 22, 2006 17:50
To: CLAYART@LSV.CERAMICS.ORG
Subject: Glaze application help
Howdy beautiful Clayart,
Okay. I have spent the day firing my last bisque load, mixing up some cone
10 glazes and doing some glazing. I have several questions regarding these
glazes I have and how to use them.
first I will list glazes:
Lamar Red (Cu red)
Custer White (liner/base glaze)
Custer 40
Flint 20
Talc 15
Gerst. 11
Dolomite 7
Ball 7
Temmoku
Whiting 18.1
Custer 43.4
EPK 10.3
Silica 28.2
add BIO 6%
add Rio 6%
Tracy's Blue (rutile blue?)
Custer 30
Silica 35
Whiting 15
EPK 10
RIO 4
Rutile 4
Ohata Red (from David's article, Fe red)
Custer 54
Whiting 11
Bone ash 11
Talc 8
Kaolin 8
Silica 24
RIO 12
Shino
Soda ash 3
Spod. 12
Custer 15
Neph sy 50
EPK 3
Ball 17
Bent 2
Okay, so I really don't have much knowledge about how to apply a shino or a
copper red. I'm assuming that the Cu red will run, baby run, so do I apply
it thick but leave plenty of room at the bottom of pots?
How about the shino? I really don't have anything shino ish to put it on but
will it do well under/over the others?
How about the Temmoku? Does it need to be thick? Will it do well over/under
the others?
I know that I am grasping at straws here, but I don't mind the uncertainty
of any suggestions. I simply have very little background with some of these
types of glazes.
BTW, I will be firing these glazes to 012 to harden them on the bisque for
travel. Is that going to do something bad to the shino for example? There
is some chance of bisquing on a glaze and then adding another, scratching
etc and firing again. Any thoughts?
I'll have many more questions when I return. Thanks, Beautiful.
Taylor, in Rockport TX
____________________________________________________________________________
__
Send postings to clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
You may look at the archives for the list or change your subscription
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Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be reached at
melpots@pclink.com.
Taylor Hendrix on fri 22 sep 06
Howdy beautiful Clayart,
Okay. I have spent the day firing my last bisque load, mixing up some
cone 10 glazes and doing some glazing. I have several questions
regarding these glazes I have and how to use them.
first I will list glazes:
Lamar Red (Cu red)
Custer White (liner/base glaze)
Custer 40
Flint 20
Talc 15
Gerst. 11
Dolomite 7
Ball 7
Temmoku
Whiting 18.1
Custer 43.4
EPK 10.3
Silica 28.2
add BIO 6%
add Rio 6%
Tracy's Blue (rutile blue?)
Custer 30
Silica 35
Whiting 15
EPK 10
RIO 4
Rutile 4
Ohata Red (from David's article, Fe red)
Custer 54
Whiting 11
Bone ash 11
Talc 8
Kaolin 8
Silica 24
RIO 12
Shino
Soda ash 3
Spod. 12
Custer 15
Neph sy 50
EPK 3
Ball 17
Bent 2
Okay, so I really don't have much knowledge about how to apply a shino
or a copper red. I'm assuming that the Cu red will run, baby run, so
do I apply it thick but leave plenty of room at the bottom of pots?
How about the shino? I really don't have anything shino ish to put it
on but will it do well under/over the others?
How about the Temmoku? Does it need to be thick? Will it do well
over/under the others?
I know that I am grasping at straws here, but I don't mind the
uncertainty of any suggestions. I simply have very little background
with some of these types of glazes.
BTW, I will be firing these glazes to 012 to harden them on the bisque
for travel. Is that going to do something bad to the shino for
example? There is some chance of bisquing on a glaze and then adding
another, scratching etc and firing again. Any thoughts?
I'll have many more questions when I return. Thanks, Beautiful.
Taylor, in Rockport TX
Jeff Guin on sat 23 sep 06
http://mudwerks.blogspot.com
http://www.flickr.com/photos/mudhead99/
>From: Taylor Hendrix
>Reply-To: Clayart
>To: CLAYART@LSV.CERAMICS.ORG
>Subject: Glaze application help
>Date: Fri, 22 Sep 2006 19:50:12 -0500
>
>Howdy beautiful Clayart,
>
>Okay. I have spent the day firing my last bisque load, mixing up some
>cone 10 glazes and doing some glazing. I have several questions
>regarding these glazes I have and how to use them.
>
>first I will list glazes:
>
>Lamar Red (Cu red)
>
>Custer White (liner/base glaze)
>
>Custer 40
>Flint 20
>Talc 15
>Gerst. 11
>Dolomite 7
>Ball 7
>
>Temmoku
>
>Whiting 18.1
>Custer 43.4
>EPK 10.3
>Silica 28.2
>add BIO 6%
>add Rio 6%
>
>Tracy's Blue (rutile blue?)
>
>Custer 30
>Silica 35
>Whiting 15
>EPK 10
>RIO 4
>Rutile 4
>
>Ohata Red (from David's article, Fe red)
>
>Custer 54
>Whiting 11
>Bone ash 11
>Talc 8
>Kaolin 8
>Silica 24
>RIO 12
>
>Shino
>
>Soda ash 3
>Spod. 12
>Custer 15
>Neph sy 50
>EPK 3
>Ball 17
>Bent 2
>
>Okay, so I really don't have much knowledge about how to apply a shino
>or a copper red. I'm assuming that the Cu red will run, baby run, so
>do I apply it thick but leave plenty of room at the bottom of pots?
>
>How about the shino? I really don't have anything shino ish to put it
>on but will it do well under/over the others?
>
>How about the Temmoku? Does it need to be thick? Will it do well
>over/under the others?
>
>I know that I am grasping at straws here, but I don't mind the
>uncertainty of any suggestions. I simply have very little background
>with some of these types of glazes.
>
>BTW, I will be firing these glazes to 012 to harden them on the bisque
>for travel. Is that going to do something bad to the shino for
>example? There is some chance of bisquing on a glaze and then adding
>another, scratching etc and firing again. Any thoughts?
>
>I'll have many more questions when I return. Thanks, Beautiful.
>
>Taylor, in Rockport TX
>
>______________________________________________________________________________
>Send postings to clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
>
>You may look at the archives for the list or change your subscription
>settings from http://www.ceramics.org/clayart/
>
>Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be reached at
>melpots@pclink.com.
Hi Taylor.
Yeah, the copper reds have the runs but a good 1/4 inch clean foot works for
me. Every shino I have used like to stay put. They dont seem to move. I have
had some good success with using slip under the shin, on greenware. I use a
grey/blue and a red. Can send you the recipes if you want them. I have also
had good success just using a mixture of red iron oxide and water and then
brushing designs onto the bisque ware then applying the shino glaze over
that. I have heard that shino can look great applied with other glazes but
the rule is Shino first or fear the worst. One note with the blue. I use a
rutile blue that is similar and that also has a tendency to run if applied
to thick. Good Luck, Best Wishes,
Jeff
coon Valley WI.
_________________________________________________________________
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Snail Scott on sat 23 sep 06
On Sep 22, 2006, at 7:50 PM, Taylor Hendrix wrote:
> I'm assuming that the Cu red will run, baby run, so
> do I apply it thick but leave plenty of room at the bottom of pots?
If you trim a 'gutter' channel just above the foot, and
stop the glaze coat just above it, the channel will
tend to catch a lot of drippage without needing a
huge tall bare area at the bottom of the object.
> How about the Temmoku? Does it need to be thick? Will it do well
> over/under the others?
Temmoku glazes are ultra-thickness-
sensitive. A small difference in thickness
can be the difference between solid black,
solid tan, and a variegated textural response.
Only testing will give you the optimum thickness
for your recipe, your forms, and your intentions.
More that with any other glaze type, thickness
is all-important.
Layering can be very effective with temmoku
glazes, whether on top or bottom. They tend to
separate into striking textures. Plain white glazes
of many types can give dramatic results, but can
sometimes overwhelm a form. Even stain-colored
glazes can be funky-wild with temmoku, and
rutile glazes are another good bet for layering.
-Snail
Cathi Newlin on fri 2 apr 10
Hola Claypeople!
I am having an issue with a glaze I want to work with so I come to you
all for advice (once more).
The problem is that the glaze falls off the ware when it dries.
Doesn't matter if its applied to bone dry greenware or bisqued ware.
Typically I'm pouring it on, fairly thickly - usually 2 coats.
After its completely dry (and somewhat chalkier than the other glazes I
use), it starts falling off.
I don't seem to have that issue if I apply it over another glaze, just
when its on its own.
Glaze is as follows:
Haynes White
Neph Sy 45
Silica 30
Whiting 8
Dolomite 10
Talc 7
--
Cathi Newlin, Angels Camp, Ca
cathi@box49.com
box49@caltel.com
cathi@SquarePegArts.com
-------------------------------
The Square Peg
http://www.squarepegarts.com
California Boxers in Need:
http://CaliforniaBoxer.org
William & Susan Schran User on fri 2 apr 10
On 4/2/10 2:49 PM, "Cathi Newlin" wrote:
> Hola Claypeople!
> I am having an issue with a glaze I want to work with so I come to you
> all for advice (once more).
>
> The problem is that the glaze falls off the ware when it dries.
> Doesn't matter if its applied to bone dry greenware or bisqued ware.
> Typically I'm pouring it on, fairly thickly - usually 2 coats.
>
> After its completely dry (and somewhat chalkier than the other glazes I
> use), it starts falling off.
> I don't seem to have that issue if I apply it over another glaze, just
> when its on its own.
> Glaze is as follows:
>
> Haynes White
>
> Neph Sy 45
> Silica 30
> Whiting 8
> Dolomite 10
> Talc 7
>
Well Cathi, this glaze has no clay in it so I'm not surprised it is acting
as you describe. With all the Neph Sy I won't be surprised if it settles ou=
t
hard also.
I would treat this like my crystalline glazes that also have no clay - add =
a
CMC gum solution to adhere it to the pot and help suspend the glaze.
Bill
--
William "Bill" Schran
wschran@cox.net
wschran@nvcc.edu
http://www.creativecreekartisans.com
Michael Wendt on fri 2 apr 10
Cathi,
Get a pound of V-Gum T.
In a 5 gallon bucket of very warm to the touch water, add it
slowly while stirring (mask needed or work outdoors).
Age this mixture covered and stir occasionally. It will
begin to become jelly like.
Meanwhile, let the offending glaze settle and when fully
settled, remove as much of the clear water as you can
without removing any solids.
Measure the total amount of water removed and replace it
with the same amount of V-Gum T/water mixture (probably
close to 1/3 the bucket).
V-Gum T bonds the mixture you described (which contains no
clay) very aggressively to virtually any pot surface.
The next time you mix the glaze, start with 1-2% by dry
weight V-Gum T and all the water you plan to use and blend
it thoroughly ahead of time before adding the other
ingredients.
As you might guess, you want to use the least amount of
V-Gum T that will give you the bonding character you
require. If you overshoot, the glaze can become jelly like.
Regards,
Michael Wendt
Cathi wrote:
After its completely dry (and somewhat chalkier than the
other glazes I
use), it starts falling off.
I don't seem to have that issue if I apply it over another
glaze, just
when its on its own.
Glaze is as follows:
Haynes White
Neph Sy 45
Silica 30
Whiting 8
Dolomite 10
Talc 7
--
Cathi Newlin, Angels Camp, Ca
Ron Roy on fri 2 apr 10
Hi Cathi,
No clay in the glaze so there is nothing to bind it to the clay or to itsel=
f.
What cone are you firing to?
I can try to reformulate it with some ball clay - tell me what kind
you can get.
The other solution is to add 2% bentonite - that may do it.
RR
Quoting Cathi Newlin :
> Hola Claypeople!
> I am having an issue with a glaze I want to work with so I come to you
> all for advice (once more).
>
> The problem is that the glaze falls off the ware when it dries.
> Doesn't matter if its applied to bone dry greenware or bisqued ware.
> Typically I'm pouring it on, fairly thickly - usually 2 coats.
>
> After its completely dry (and somewhat chalkier than the other glazes I
> use), it starts falling off.
> I don't seem to have that issue if I apply it over another glaze, just
> when its on its own.
> Glaze is as follows:
>
> Haynes White
>
> Neph Sy 45
> Silica 30
> Whiting 8
> Dolomite 10
> Talc 7
>
>
> --
> Cathi Newlin, Angels Camp, Ca
> cathi@box49.com
> box49@caltel.com
> cathi@SquarePegArts.com
>
> -------------------------------
> The Square Peg
> http://www.squarepegarts.com
>
> California Boxers in Need:
> http://CaliforniaBoxer.org
>
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