Brenda G. Anderson on mon 25 sep 06
I am ready to take the big step to raku and the great outdoors.
I want to build a small raku kiln for tiles and small items. Some =
wonderful local potters, Val Webb and John Rezner, have given me some =
ideas.=20
Does anyone have specific instructions for a kiln? Do I use fire bricks =
or ceramic fiber for outdoors? I am using bricks for the outer layer. =
Do I put in a pyrometer or just guess it for the first few times? =
Remember it is small and gas fired.
Any specific instructions (I need step by step) would be greatly =
appreciated.
Brenda G. Anderson
Daughter of Clay Pottery
(yes, my late father's name was Clay)
Marcia Selsor on mon 25 sep 06
Brenda,
I'd look up the hardware fabric design from PMI a few years ago. It
is ceramic fiber attached to wire mesh (hardware fabric). I made two
of these from one roll of ceramic fiber. One was 23 " inside diameter
and the other was about 19".
spray them with ITC and a rigidizer. Get the "safe fiber" to protect
yourself.
These kilns fired like champs. I did many workshops with them. They
were very portable. I kept mine inside when not in use. I got my
burners from Marc Ward. I fired on 3.5 pounds of pressure. -Very
efficient kiln and burner set up.
Marcia Selsor
http://marciaselsor.com
Frank Colson on mon 25 sep 06
Brenda- What more could you ask for. Meet ROCKY RAKU at www.R2D2u.com A
total instructions and plans, right down to making the burner and how to
fireup those first delicious raku pots. Proven over and over again . If
any doubt just ask Phyllis Pacin at: ppacin@yahoo.com about ROCKY which she
made years ago and gained a great raku reputation.
Frank Colson
www.R2D2u.com
----- Original Message -----
From: "Brenda G. Anderson"
To:
Sent: Monday, September 25, 2006 4:37 AM
Subject: small raku kiln
I am ready to take the big step to raku and the great outdoors.
I want to build a small raku kiln for tiles and small items. Some wonderful
local potters, Val Webb and John Rezner, have given me some ideas.
Does anyone have specific instructions for a kiln? Do I use fire bricks or
ceramic fiber for outdoors? I am using bricks for the outer layer. Do I
put in a pyrometer or just guess it for the first few times? Remember it is
small and gas fired.
Any specific instructions (I need step by step) would be greatly
appreciated.
Brenda G. Anderson
Daughter of Clay Pottery
(yes, my late father's name was Clay)
______________________________________________________________________________
Send postings to clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
You may look at the archives for the list or change your subscription
settings from http://www.ceramics.org/clayart/
Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be reached at
melpots@pclink.com.
Patrick Cross on tue 26 sep 06
I had an idea for a raku kiln that I've haven't actually tried yet. I was
thinking of using galvanized deck inserts that are used with some pallet
racking...to make a paneled...modular kiln. Each panel to be lined with
Kaowool attached with porcelain buttons and wire...and independent of one
another. If you don't know what I mean by pallet racking, just go to your
local Lowe's/Home Depot and look at their store shelving...what they keep
all their stock on.
http://images.google.com/imgres?imgurl=http://www.forkliftcosts.com/images/MeshDeck.jpg&imgrefurl=http://www.forkliftcosts.com/Wireway_Husky_Rack_Options.htm&h=138&w=280&sz=25&hl=en&start=8&tbnid=eTQcgTwNrtj0QM:&tbnh=53&tbnw=109&prev=/images%3Fq%3DGalvanized%2Bpallet%2Brack%2Bdecking%26svnum%3D10%26hl%3Den%26lr%3D%26sa%3DG
The basic set-up to be comprised of four panels for the walls and one panel
for the roof of the kiln. (You could easily shorten the wall height by
cutting down the decking...just be sure to have that rolled over edge on
each end.) Then if a larger kiln was needed...just add two more panels to
the walls and another panel for roof...kiln becomes rectangular. There
would be a brick base with 3" X 3" angle iron driven into the ground at the
corners...This being what the panels attach to. Perhaps with something as
simple as big metal spring clamps (like Jorgensen/Pony...without the rubber
tips). The angle iron would be turned with the point or ridge inward...and
the rolled over edges of the pallet rack decking would match up to that. A
few metal spring clamps at each corner and away you go.
http://images.google.com/imgres?imgurl=http://images.amazon.com/images/P/B0000224BY.01._PE23_SCMZZZZZZZ_.gif&imgrefurl=http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/tg/detail/-/B0000224BY%3Fv%3Dglance&h=161&w=165&sz=5&hl=en&start=1&tbnid=9is-DprNA_pSEM:&tbnh=97&tbnw=99&prev=/images%3Fq%3Djorgensen%2BSpring%2Bclamps%26svnum%3D10%26hl%3Den%26lr%3D%26sa%3DG
When the kiln is not in use the panels can be stored out of the weather in
the back of your studio. The brick base and angle iron posts to remain in
place.
Patrick Cross (cone10soda)
On 9/25/06, Brenda G. Anderson wrote:
>
> I am ready to take the big step to raku and the great outdoors.
>
> I want to build a small raku kiln for tiles and small items. Some
> wonderful local potters, Val Webb and John Rezner, have given me some ideas.
>
> Does anyone have specific instructions for a kiln? Do I use fire bricks
> or ceramic fiber for outdoors? I am using bricks for the outer layer. Do I
> put in a pyrometer or just guess it for the first few times? Remember it is
> small and gas fired.
>
> Any specific instructions (I need step by step) would be greatly
> appreciated.
>
> Brenda G. Anderson
> Daughter of Clay Pottery
> (yes, my late father's name was Clay)
>
>
> ______________________________________________________________________________
> Send postings to clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
>
> You may look at the archives for the list or change your subscription
> settings from http://www.ceramics.org/clayart/
>
> Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be reached at
> melpots@pclink.com.
>
Jeff Guin on wed 27 sep 06
Dear Brenda,
I built a fiber-lined garbage can raku kiln and it has been firing like a
champ. It is very light weight and I can put it in the back of my Jeep
Cherokee. I drive it to friends houses and we have firing parties. In the
archives of my blog site (mudwerks.blogspot.com) there are photos and
comments on how I built mine. Hope it is of help.
Good Luck.
Jeff
Coon Valley, WI
http://mudwerks.blogspot.com
http://www.flickr.com/photos/mudhead99/
>From: "Brenda G. Anderson"
>Reply-To: Clayart
>To: CLAYART@LSV.CERAMICS.ORG
>Subject: small raku kiln
>Date: Mon, 25 Sep 2006 06:37:41 -0500
>
>I am ready to take the big step to raku and the great outdoors.
>
>I want to build a small raku kiln for tiles and small items. Some
>wonderful local potters, Val Webb and John Rezner, have given me some
>ideas.
>
>Does anyone have specific instructions for a kiln? Do I use fire bricks or
>ceramic fiber for outdoors? I am using bricks for the outer layer. Do I
>put in a pyrometer or just guess it for the first few times? Remember it
>is small and gas fired.
>
>Any specific instructions (I need step by step) would be greatly
>appreciated.
>
>Brenda G. Anderson
>Daughter of Clay Pottery
>(yes, my late father's name was Clay)
>
>______________________________________________________________________________
>Send postings to clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
>
>You may look at the archives for the list or change your subscription
>settings from http://www.ceramics.org/clayart/
>
>Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be reached at
>melpots@pclink.com.
_________________________________________________________________
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Snail Scott on wed 27 sep 06
On Sep 25, 2006, at 6:37 AM, Brenda G. Anderson wrote:
> I want to build a small raku kiln...Do I use fire bricks or ceramic
> fiber for outdoors? I am using bricks for the outer layer.
Both need to be kept dry, especially the fiber.
> Do I put in a pyrometer or just guess it for the first few times?
A pyrometer is handy, I suppose, but I've never used
one for raku. Cones are also of limited utility. A visual
check of the glazes is the real determinant for me.
Watch to see them melt, then bubble, then smooth
out again. Naturally, this doesn't apply to dry glazes
like the ever-popular Copper Sand variants and such,
but having even one glossy-glazed piece in the kiln
will give you the info you need.
Some kilns may have cold spots, but experience will
tell you where those are, where to look for the 'real' info
(i.e. not at the work in the hot spots), how best to place
the work, and how much extra time you need to get
those cold spots up to temp after all the parts you can
see look good...
-Snail
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