Steve Slatin on fri 29 sep 06
Joe (or is it Rita?) --
I use a slightly modified version of the DigitalFire (Tony Hansen) recipe.
I changed it just a bit because I had crazing problems. The
version I use now is non-crazing over most bodies I use, so I guess it
might dunt over some bodies (which I don't use). The MgO and the
extra silica put it in the sweet spot for the bodies I use it on (OH-6,
Goldstone, Vashon Buff, etc.)
It goes as follows --
Recipe Name: Gnu Blue
Cone: 6 Color: Blue over tan/brown
Firing: Oxidation Surface: Glossy
Amount Ingredient
75 Clay--Alberta Slip II
15 Gillespie Borate
5 Dolomite
4 Silica
99 Total
Additives
4 Rutile
1 Bentonite
Unity Oxide
.1 Na2O
.06 K2O
.287 MgO
.551 CaO
.002 SrO
1.000 Total
.307 Al2O3
.171 B2O3
.08 Fe2O3
2.784 SiO2
.012 TiO2
.002 P2O5
9.1 Ratio
68.4 Exp
Comments: Total adds up to 99. More blue but less visible 'float' at 5% rutile.
This is a variation on the DigitalFire recipe, which is 80/20 Alberta Slip to Ferro Frit 3134 plus applicable rutile. Where too thick will crawl, can run especially if pushed to ^7. Over high-iron clay very brown but no green problem. Where thin, and at rim is caramel-tan color. Blue develops at ^5. Reliable with fast or slow cool.
-----------------------------------
Calculations by GlazeMaster™
www.masteringglazes.com
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Shaw Pottery wrote:
Hi Steve,
Just wondering which version of Floating Blue you are using
personally. We are firing ^6 on Frost Porcelain.
Nepheline Syenite 47.3
Gerstley Borate 27.0
Flint 20.3
EPK 5.4
Red Iron 2.0
Rutile 4.0
Colbalt Oxide 1.0
Bentonite 1.0
Steve Slatin --
The angel lay in a little thicket. It had no need of love; there was nothing anywhere in the world could startle it ...
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Shaw Pottery on fri 29 sep 06
Hi Steve,
Just wondering which version of Floating Blue you are using
personally. We are firing ^6 on Frost Porcelain.
Nepheline Syenite 47.3
Gerstley Borate 27.0
Flint 20.3
EPK 5.4
Red Iron 2.0
Rutile 4.0
Colbalt Oxide 1.0
Bentonite 1.0
The glaze is well accepted by the customers, we tend to use it more
on pieces with imprints & textures. It breaks a nice brown on the
edges when applied on the lighter side. Someday soon we will run some
tests to try to get just a little more blue. Aside from an occasional
pinhole, it seems fine. Any idea on getting rid of those would be
welcome. We fire a solid 6 in a 16 cu ft electric kiln.
Nancy mentioned "throwing honey", I have no idea what she means by that?
Thanks,
Joe and Rita Shaw
>Steve Slatin wrote: Nancy --
>
> Everyone's trying to be helpful, but what'd be most helpful would be if
> you let us know what you're doing.
>
> "Floating Blue" isn't a single glaze. It's many glazes with a specific
> effect. (I have used 3 myself.) The James Chapell version uses
> Nepheline Syenite, Gerstley Borate, Silica, EPK, and some RIO.
> The DigitalFire site gives a version with Alberta Slip, and Frit 3134.
> Ron Roy has many variation, some using Frit 3278. The list goes
> on ...
>
> Some variations of recipes have the "snot green" tendency; others
> either don't or it hasn't been reported about them. If you use them
> quite a bit, you get comfortable with substititions and so on.
>
> Firing to ^5 seems to be a solution for some of the problems;
> applying the glaze "thick enough" seems to be the solution for
> others.
>
> And, as always, the clay you're firing over makes a huge difference.
>
> So ... what version of the recipe do you use, and what clay do you
> fire over, and to what cone with what kind of firing (i.e., controlled
> cooling or no, a fast or a slow firing)?
>
> Best wishes -- Steve Slatin
Nancy Braches on fri 29 sep 06
HI Joe & Rita
I use a glaze called honey (I call it runny hunny), it's a very pretty amber that breaks a cream and sometimes a yellow on white clay. If you use floating blue, try putting honey over it for an awesome blue that breaks brown on the edges. But I will say, it is runny. I've had really good luck with it in the past (before I was making it :D )
Nancy
Hilltop Pottery
Shaw Pottery wrote: Hi Steve,
Just wondering which version of Floating Blue you are using
personally. We are firing ^6 on Frost Porcelain.
Nepheline Syenite 47.3
Gerstley Borate 27.0
Flint 20.3
EPK 5.4
Red Iron 2.0
Rutile 4.0
Colbalt Oxide 1.0
Bentonite 1.0
The glaze is well accepted by the customers, we tend to use it more
on pieces with imprints & textures. It breaks a nice brown on the
edges when applied on the lighter side. Someday soon we will run some
tests to try to get just a little more blue. Aside from an occasional
pinhole, it seems fine. Any idea on getting rid of those would be
welcome. We fire a solid 6 in a 16 cu ft electric kiln.
Nancy mentioned "throwing honey", I have no idea what she means by that?
Thanks,
Joe and Rita Shaw
>Steve Slatin wrote: Nancy --
>
> Everyone's trying to be helpful, but what'd be most helpful would be if
> you let us know what you're doing.
>
> "Floating Blue" isn't a single glaze. It's many glazes with a specific
> effect. (I have used 3 myself.) The James Chapell version uses
> Nepheline Syenite, Gerstley Borate, Silica, EPK, and some RIO.
> The DigitalFire site gives a version with Alberta Slip, and Frit 3134.
> Ron Roy has many variation, some using Frit 3278. The list goes
> on ...
>
> Some variations of recipes have the "snot green" tendency; others
> either don't or it hasn't been reported about them. If you use them
> quite a bit, you get comfortable with substititions and so on.
>
> Firing to ^5 seems to be a solution for some of the problems;
> applying the glaze "thick enough" seems to be the solution for
> others.
>
> And, as always, the clay you're firing over makes a huge difference.
>
> So ... what version of the recipe do you use, and what clay do you
> fire over, and to what cone with what kind of firing (i.e., controlled
> cooling or no, a fast or a slow firing)?
>
> Best wishes -- Steve Slatin
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