William & Susan Schran User on sun 8 oct 06
On 10/7/06 9:19 PM, "Barbara Brown" wrote:
> I am having trouble with some of my vases leaking. I am using cone 10
> stoneware and firing to cone 10 oxidation. Some of the vases seep when set on
> newspaper overnight and some do not.
My first thought about leaky vases would be due to glaze crazing.
Are you using the same glaze on the interior of all your vases?
Since you write that not all of the vases leak, did you use the same glaze
on all the leaky ones and a different glaze on the ones that don't leak?
-- William "Bill" Schran
Fredericksburg, Virginia
wschran@cox.net
wschran@nvcc.edu
Barbara Lewis on sun 8 oct 06
Barbara: Any chance it is leaking at your "signature." Also, I bought a
piece from a friend that was soda fired, cone 10, the bottom was very thin,
and it leaked, even though there was no noticeable crack. Could this be a
possibility? Just a couple of thoughts. Barbara
----- Original Message -----
From: "Barbara Brown"
To:
Sent: Saturday, October 07, 2006 9:19 PM
Subject: help with sealing leaking vases
I am having trouble with some of my vases leaking. I am using cone 10
stoneware and firing to cone 10 oxidation. Some of the vases seep when set
on newspaper overnight and some do not. I have tried sealing the leaking
ones by painting Thompson's water seal on the unglazed bottom. Sometimes it
works and sometimes it does not. Does anyone have any other ideas on how to
take care of this problem?
Barbara
Barbara Brown
1225 Manzano Way
Sunnyvale, Ca 94089
408-736-3889 phone/fax
bbrown3@webtv.net
www.barbarabrownclayart.com
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Mike Gordon on sun 8 oct 06
Barbara, Bonnie Staffel mentioned, a product recently, that she uses on
pit fired pots, on the inside to stop leaking. I can't remember the
name, I thought I had it saved but I guess not, maybe you could
contact her. I have used melted candle wax on the inside of low fired
glaze pots to stop seeping of water. Mike Gordon
On Oct 7, 2006, at 6:19 PM, Barbara Brown wrote:
> I am having trouble with some of my vases leaking. I am using cone 10
> stoneware and firing to cone 10 oxidation. Some of the vases seep
> when set on newspaper overnight and some do not. I have tried sealing
> the leaking ones by painting Thompson's water seal on the unglazed
> bottom. Sometimes it works and sometimes it does not. Does anyone
> have any other ideas on how to take care of this problem?
> Barbara
>
> Barbara Brown
> 1225 Manzano Way
> Sunnyvale, Ca 94089
> 408-736-3889 phone/fax
> bbrown3@webtv.net
> www.barbarabrownclayart.com
>
> _______________________________________________________________________
> _______
> Send postings to clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
>
> You may look at the archives for the list or change your subscription
> settings from http://www.ceramics.org/clayart/
>
> Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be reached at
> melpots@pclink.com.
>
Maid O'Mud on sun 8 oct 06
I would be questioning the clay body 1st - not
trying to find a solution to the leaks. Do you use
witness cones when you fire or are you depending
on the computer controller? You say some leak
and some don't. Do you use different glazes?
We need more information to be able to help
you.
Sam Cuttell
Maid O'Mud Pottery
RR 1
Melbourne, Ontario
N0L 1T0
CANADA
"First, the clay told me what to do.
Then, I told the clay what to do.
Now, we co-operate."
sam 1994
http://www.ody.ca/~scuttell/
scuttell@ody.ca
----- Original Message -----
From: "Barbara Brown"
Subject: help with sealing leaking vases
I am having trouble with some of my vases leaking. I am using cone 10
stoneware and firing to cone 10 oxidation. Some of the vases seep when set
on newspaper overnight and some do not. I have tried sealing the leaking
ones by painting Thompson's water seal on the unglazed bottom. Sometimes it
works and sometimes it does not. Does anyone have any other ideas on how to
take care of this problem?
Barbara
Barbara Brown
1225 Manzano Way
Sunnyvale, Ca 94089
408-736-3889 phone/fax
bbrown3@webtv.net
www.barbarabrownclayart.com
Barbara Brown on sun 8 oct 06
I am having trouble with some of my vases leaking. I am using cone 10 st=
oneware and firing to cone 10 oxidation. Some of the vases seep when set=
on newspaper overnight and some do not. I have tried sealing the leakin=
g ones by painting Thompson's water seal on the unglazed bottom. Sometim=
es it works and sometimes it does not. Does anyone have any other ideas =
on how to take care of this problem?
Barbara
Barbara Brown
1225 Manzano Way
Sunnyvale, Ca 94089
408-736-3889 phone/fax
bbrown3@webtv.net
www.barbarabrownclayart.com
Lee Love on mon 9 oct 06
Mashiko Kaki is traditionally put on the inside of vases to
keep pots in cool spaces in the noborigama from leaking. Maybe you
need a liner glazes for your vases?
It is practice to put silicone sealing inside expensive
vases, to help guarantee their not leaking.
--
Lee in Mashiko, Japan
http://potters.blogspot.com/
"Let the beauty we love be what we do." - Rumi
"When we all do better. We ALL do better." -Paul Wellstone
Mark Issenberg on mon 9 oct 06
Axner sells a sealer i use in all my lamps. I pour it in and let drain out
into a cup the i dump back into the bottle of sealer
Mark
glazing like a crazy potter
Barbara Brown on mon 9 oct 06
I want to thank all those who replied to my request for help. What I am =
looking for is a sealant for vases already made as I am going to be a sho=
w soon. The answers I have gotten are very helpful. Pour Thompson water=
seal inside, sit in Thompson water seal overnight, spray with acrylic sp=
ray or paint with water warden.
I will try these. As far as my signature being the place it leaks, I ofte=
n use black underglaze pad and name stamp. To answer those who wanted to=
know what glaze and what clay, I use the same glaze inside and out. I m=
ostly use Cushing's Satin Black. The clays I use are Bravo Buff and Glac=
ia Porcelain at home and Bmix with sand and Glacia Porcelain where I teac=
h.
At home I fire an electric kiln with a wall controller to cone 10 but pla=
n to try cone 11 when I fire today.
Thanks again for the help.
Barbara
Barbara Brown
1225 Manzano Way
Sunnyvale, Ca 94089
408-736-3889 phone/fax
bbrown3@webtv.net
www.barbarabrownclayart.com
Bonnie Staffel on mon 9 oct 06
A really old remedy to seal leaking pots was to soak them in strong tea.
That was the only remedy available to me and my 'early' pots. Tea is non
toxic as well.
Regards, Bonnie Staffel
http://webpages.charter.net/bstaffel/
http://vasefinder.com/bstaffelgallery1.html
DVD Throwing with Coils and Slabs
DVD Beginning Processes
Charter Member Potters Council
Tarrant, Derek on mon 9 oct 06
Barbara Brown
bbrown3@webtv.net
www.barbarabrownclayart.com=20
Subject: help with sealing leaking vases
Dear Barbara,
You can use Sodium Silicate solution (water glass).
Type "N" from PQ Corp - 1-610-651-4481 should work best.
This is commonly used to seal porosity in metal castings.
It can merely be left to dry but could redissolve when fresh.
After a while it becomes neutralized by atmospheric CO2 and permanently
insoluble.
This process can be accelerated by neutralizing by an acid such as
muriatic acid or vinegar=20
Suggest you allow it to soak from the inside (overnight), drain and wipe
off excess with a damp cloth, dry, then add 10% diluted muriatic acid or
vinegar (safer) inside and leave it overnight
This should fix it.
Good Luck,
Derek in Weaverville.
Snail Scott on mon 9 oct 06
On Oct 7, 2006, at 8:19 PM, Barbara Brown wrote:
> I am having trouble with some of my vases leaking. I am using cone 10
> stoneware and firing to cone 10 oxidation...
Most clays sold as ^10 are tested for
vitrification after reduction firing, as
most manufacturers see reduction as
the most common choice at that cone.
If your clay contains iron, that iron will
play a major fluxing role in reduction,
but not in oxidation. Depending on
the iron content, you may need to fire
a full cone or two higher to get proper
vitrification of that body in oxidation.
-Snail
Ivor and Olive Lewis on mon 9 oct 06
I suppose everyone at some time in their career will have products that =
are afflicted by this form of Pox. I have had it with traditional salt =
glaze work.
Soda and Common Salt glazes are very thin. But they do contain only one =
fluxing agent of note, Sodium Oxide and that, as the glaze gurus will =
tell you, is prone to have a high Coeff of Thermal Expansion so on =
cooling it will shrink excessively and craze. The crazing will be so =
fine that you will be hard pressed to see it with your naked eye. It can =
be revealed by using a Dye Disclosure Test. This involves painting the =
surface with a colored ink that has a low viscosity and high surface =
tension. It is applied then wiped off. Read the surface of the pots with =
a X 10 hand lens. My recommendation is to use a compatible liner glaze =
whose Coeff of T.E. matches that of the clay in those circumstances.
On an ordinarily glazed pot I suggest that the interior is painted with =
neat sodium silicate solution, then fill the pot with water and allow it =
to stand where no harm will be done until the pot has dried out.
Finally, always check that the given maturity temperature of the clay =
will achieve a minimum adsorption value. I the maker of the clay gives =
it a wide firing range and a person is working at the low end of that =
scale there is no guarantee that maturity will be achieved.
Best regards,
Ivor Lewis.
Redhill,
South Australia.
William & Susan Schran User on tue 10 oct 06
On 10/9/06 9:39 AM, "Barbara Brown" wrote:
> At home I fire an electric kiln with a wall controller to cone 10 but plan to
> try cone 11 when I fire today.
I'd suggest you also use witness cones in your kiln so that you will have a
record of the firing and that your kiln is actually reaching ^10.
-- William "Bill" Schran
Fredericksburg, Virginia
wschran@cox.net
wschran@nvcc.edu
Bonnie Staffel on tue 10 oct 06
Barbara,
The material I use is called WeldBond made in Canada. Not the same name as
that made in the US. They sell it in the US in Big Stores just have to
check in your area. Or you can look them up on the Internet and ask where
they sell in your area.
I cut the material with water to be about as thin as skimmed milk. Pour it
into the vase and pour out. Let dry for at least 24 hours. I have made my
pit fired work waterproof with this, but have not tried it on glazed work.
Seems like it should be fine. It is termed non toxic as well.
Bonnie Staffel
http://webpages.charter.net/bstaffel/
http://vasefinder.com/bstaffelgallery1.html
DVD Throwing with Coils and Slabs
DVD Beginning Processes
Charter Member Potters Council
Linda Falcone on wed 8 nov 06
Hi Bonnie, Thanks for the info. do you have a PH.# or e-mail to order this product??? Thanks , Linda (Red)
Bonnie Staffel wrote: Barbara,
The material I use is called WeldBond made in Canada. Not the same name as
that made in the US. They sell it in the US in Big Stores just have to
check in your area. Or you can look them up on the Internet and ask where
they sell in your area.
I cut the material with water to be about as thin as skimmed milk. Pour it
into the vase and pour out. Let dry for at least 24 hours. I have made my
pit fired work waterproof with this, but have not tried it on glazed work.
Seems like it should be fine. It is termed non toxic as well.
Bonnie Staffel
http://webpages.charter.net/bstaffel/
http://vasefinder.com/bstaffelgallery1.html
DVD Throwing with Coils and Slabs
DVD Beginning Processes
Charter Member Potters Council
______________________________________________________________________________
Send postings to clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
You may look at the archives for the list or change your subscription
settings from http://www.ceramics.org/clayart/
Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be reached at melpots@pclink.com.
---------------------------------
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Bonnie Staffel on thu 9 nov 06
Linda, you can find that information at the following address:
http://www.weldbondusa.com/contact.html
There is a wealth of information about the product on their web site.
Bonnie Staffel
http://webpages.charter.net/bstaffel/
http://vasefinder.com/bstaffelgallery1.html
DVD Throwing with Coils and Slabs
DVD Beginning Processes
Charter Member Potters Council
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